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  #31  
Old 12-29-2010, 02:43 PM
sheephunter
 
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For those giving antlers to their dogs, just remember you are setting a pattern for life. We have many mounts, hides and antlers in our house and since day one they've been off limits. You need to be pretty black and white with pups. No way they can distinguish between an antler you give them and the antler on your shoulder mount. Ours has his toys and chew sticks and he knows everything else is off limits.....no matter where we go.
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  #32  
Old 12-29-2010, 02:58 PM
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For those giving antlers to their dogs, just remember you are setting a pattern for life. We have many mounts, hides and antlers in our house and since day one they've been off limits. You need to be pretty black and white with pups. No way they can distinguish between an antler you give them and the antler on your shoulder mount. Ours has his toys and chew sticks and he knows everything else is off limits.....no matter where we go.
Definitely good advice. I've thought about that, and decided that ALL of my antlers that I value go up high, or in a bin in the basement, away from the pointy teeth. I'm hoping to create a shed-finding machine, so if I pay the price down the road, it'll be my fault 100% for playing the game...
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  #33  
Old 12-29-2010, 03:04 PM
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Definitely good advice. I've thought about that, and decided that ALL of my antlers that I value go up high, or in a bin in the basement, away from the pointy teeth. I'm hoping to create a shed-finding machine, so if I pay the price down the road, it'll be my fault 100% for playing the game...
I think you can still train them to find antlers without making antlers a toy. Our dog knows his retrieving dummies are only for training....I think you could do the same with antlers.
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  #34  
Old 12-29-2010, 03:33 PM
Islander Islander is offline
 
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I never even thought of that.... All of the reading that I've done on the subject suggests that playing fetch with antlers, giving puppies ONLY antlers to chew on, and just generally getting them obsessed with them is the best way to train them. Our pup does have other toys, but seems to prefer antlers the most, especially for a before-a-nap chew. I wonder if the ship has sailed on this one....
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  #35  
Old 01-06-2011, 04:53 PM
densa44 densa44 is offline
 
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Smile Teething time for puppies!

My first lab liked new shoes the best. She would only eat one though. Before your patience runs out get the dog MUCH more exercise, and I mean a lot! Then give them the chew toys. A dog that has lots of available energy is not a very good house guest especially a puppy. In your case start outdoor retrieving drills and get them longer and longer,having help makes it much easier. Run the drills until there is lots of pink tongue hanging out, a quick walk and a few milk bones and then back in the house. Next fall you will really appreciate the level of fitness of both owner and dog!
You and man's best friend should enjoy this very special time.
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  #36  
Old 01-06-2011, 05:59 PM
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Zuludog Zuludog is offline
 
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Lots of great answers. I've used most of them from Kongs, to carrots, my dogs love ice cubes and nyla bones. They also get bones from the butcher and chicken won't harm your dog. My dogs are on the raw food diet and eat raw chicken daily, with ground up bones in it. COOKED chicken bones on the other hand will kill dogs, they splinter and are hard/brittle.
The training and discipline advice seems sound too. Constant supervision, LOTS of exercise and patience are the key. Like others have said don't hit your dog it will end up fearing hands and you don't want that.
Good luck with your new best friend, they will grow out of it. That's a nice looking pup. Reminds me of my dog (Zulu) she's 1/2 Choc. lab and have ridgeback.

PS don't use socks as toys for the same reason you don't want to use antlers. If it's "okay" to chew once or play with once it should ALWAYS be okay. Consistency is key.
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  #37  
Old 01-06-2011, 06:08 PM
sinawalli sinawalli is offline
 
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Chicken bones are NOT good for dogs. They splinter and can cause all sorts of intestinal issues. Raw chicken also carries numerous bacteria that you don't want spread around your house.
I used to buy Mountain Dog Food (?) for my lab when he was still around. It is raw food made up of ground chicken (bones as well), veggies and probably other stuff. Came in a 40 lb frozen block. He loved it! Was very healthy, beautiful coat, and only left a small *urd pile, that turned grey and dry after about 2 days. Downside was that it is expensive, and a pain to have to chop up! Was told that cooked chicken bones are bad because they are dry and splinter. Would agree with the raw chicken around the house, but Trooper ate outside, so it wasn't a issue with us.
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  #38  
Old 01-06-2011, 06:10 PM
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I think you can still train them to find antlers without making antlers a toy. Our dog knows his retrieving dummies are only for training....I think you could do the same with antlers.
Knew a guy who trained his lab to find arrows after he missed the target on 3D ranges. Dog was spot on all the time! Saved him lots of $$ on arrows!!
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  #39  
Old 01-06-2011, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by sinawalli View Post
I used to buy Mountain Dog Food (?) for my lab when he was still around. It is raw food made up of ground chicken (bones as well), veggies and probably other stuff. Came in a 40 lb frozen block. He loved it! Was very healthy, beautiful coat, and only left a small *urd pile, that turned grey and dry after about 2 days. Downside was that it is expensive, and a pain to have to chop up! Was told that cooked chicken bones are bad because they are dry and splinter. Would agree with the raw chicken around the house, but Trooper ate outside, so it wasn't a issue with us.
I think the difference was he was talking about giving his dog whole chicken wings as a teething aid....not ground raw food. Personally I would never feed raw chicken to my dog, ground or not but that's a topic for another thread.
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  #40  
Old 01-06-2011, 06:46 PM
eastcoast eastcoast is offline
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I have 2 dogs 1 I got as a puppy and 1 as a year old,the one I got as a puppy had the same problem as im sure most puppies do so what I used to do was tie my old socks together in a big knot and let him chew them,made sure he wasn't swallowing them and that seemed to make him happy,and now he is 5 years old and loves socks,when I come home and sit down he scratches and sniffs my socks til I take them off and let him chew on them.
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  #41  
Old 01-06-2011, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sinawalli View Post
I used to buy Mountain Dog Food (?) for my lab when he was still around. It is raw food made up of ground chicken (bones as well), veggies and probably other stuff. Came in a 40 lb frozen block. He loved it! Was very healthy, beautiful coat, and only left a small *urd pile, that turned grey and dry after about 2 days. Downside was that it is expensive, and a pain to have to chop up! Was told that cooked chicken bones are bad because they are dry and splinter. Would agree with the raw chicken around the house, but Trooper ate outside, so it wasn't a issue with us.
Mountain dog food is what I feed, Zulu and my other dog. I totally agree with everything above except I thaw it in a big rubber maid container and keep it in the fridge. (No chopping here) I've never had any salmonella or raw chicken problems and while expensive I think the pros far outweigh the negatives of a small price increase over a good dry dog food.
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  #42  
Old 01-06-2011, 08:58 PM
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I have been told rawhide isn't very good for dogs. Also my dogs don't like it. My dad got a black lab puppy this summer and we gave him pigs ears, which he loved.
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  #43  
Old 01-06-2011, 09:46 PM
slough shark slough shark is offline
 
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well good luck on the teething pup, I have a chocolate pup that is just over 6 months old and I am happy to say he is done with that teething stage! I just went with the premise that being a lab he was going to chew and he certainly did. I just taught him the word NO right away, never laid a finger on him, rewarded good behaviour and tethered him whenever he started biting more than a little play or chewed things he wasn't supposed to. I was rather fortunate as he seemed to pick up on what I wanted him to chew and where I wanted him to go and respected the bounderies that I had set out for him. There was a number of times where he would get that look on his eye and turn in the the leaping pirahnna of destruction. When he started to do that I would just give him an ice cube or frozen carrot, and if he didn't calm down after that I would tether him and ignore him until he was calm for a few minutes. Also a tired pup is a good pup.
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  #44  
Old 01-06-2011, 10:12 PM
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blackmamba blackmamba is offline
 
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thanks for all the info everybody !!! he is definately a hand full but since I started runnin/walking him for an hour in the morning before work , and atleast an hour when i get in from work has really toned him down !! He is a very smart dog and has learned his boundaries well .

It was funny the other night I brought up a moose roast for dinner and put it on the counter , the minute i put it down he went to the counter and sat there looking up for probably close to 10 minutes . He has a great nose thats for sure
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  #45  
Old 01-06-2011, 11:28 PM
Jimboy Jimboy is offline
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Originally Posted by sheephunter View Post
Chicken bones are NOT good for dogs. They splinter and can cause all sorts of intestinal issues. Raw chicken also carries numerous bacteria that you don't want spread around your house.
LOL , tell that to the coyote that love the raw chickens from farmer jones , and all the game birds he eats , but yea , l agree with ya , never gave my dog chicken bones.
Heres a little story tho , my parents used to run a resort out at bragg creek back in the fiftys, and it had a small eatery there that Mother used to rule , well one day an old fella neighbour brought in two live chickens and asked if she wanted them to cook up for the weeks menu , she said yes , but their still alive she said , he said thats no problem , and begain to ring ones necks right there in the kirchen to the point that the body left the head in his hand , and the body procided to run up and down the little eaterys isle splatering blood everywhere , luckily no customers were in at that time.
Well this old guy had his ole airdale dog with him off leash , and in a flash the dog grabbed the chicken , out the door , gone for 2 hours , came back to the eatery with one feather hanging out of his mouth looking for the other one , lol true story , never seemed to hurt that dog , but its taking a risk , good old beef knuckle bones are much better , only trouble with them the dogs protect them with their lives and dig up your yard to bury them , haaaaa .
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  #46  
Old 01-07-2011, 06:14 AM
sinawalli sinawalli is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Zuludog View Post
Mountain dog food is what I feed, Zulu and my other dog. I totally agree with everything above except I thaw it in a big rubber maid container and keep it in the fridge. (No chopping here) I've never had any salmonella or raw chicken problems and while expensive I think the pros far outweigh the negatives of a small price increase over a good dry dog food.
One problem I encountered is than when on vacation for 2 weeks (camping), you need to find a place to keep 2 weeks worth of food frozen. We were very limited for space as well!
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  #47  
Old 01-07-2011, 07:47 AM
rhuntley12 rhuntley12 is offline
 
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Hah, puppies. Can't wait till our golden hits a year. I don't think I'll want another puppy, if ever get another dog it'll be a year or two old.

Our golden has chewed our front deck railings so project next summer to replace. Not many toys last more then 5 minutes with the golden and pyr, they tear everything to pieces.

Couple toys that have lasted are those big rubber tire type toys with the rope.
Heck they like anything with rope.
Kongs are good but don't like how they I can't find those little bones that you used to stick in them anymore
The toy type that has lasted the longest is I think they are called tuffys.
Those jolly ball type toys for horses, like a rubber ball with a handle they love and last for awhile too
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  #48  
Old 01-08-2011, 02:26 PM
densa44 densa44 is offline
 
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Smile I wonder if I should give advice?

My pudelpointer, a very energetic beast I must say is still eating holes in my socks in a split second. She eats "Kong Balls and Bones" but the one thing I have got for her that she hasn't found a way to destroy are lacrosse balls! They come 3 in a bag at sports stores. If you don't mind the dog bring them to you when she is bored or dropping them down the cellar stairs and then chasing them, this might be your solution!
Enjoy your dog, he looks adorable!
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  #49  
Old 01-10-2011, 06:24 AM
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OutwardBound OutwardBound is offline
 
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I have been told rawhide isn't very good for dogs. Also my dogs don't like it. My dad got a black lab puppy this summer and we gave him pigs ears, which he loved.
X2 You shouldn't give your dog or any pet rawhide. It is one of the most common items that leads to bloat in dogs. Once your pup eats the rawhide it expands 7 times it's size in it's stomach. Also they are commonly treated with formaldhydes.

Way better off with bones, beef chews, toys, ice cubes etc. They may cost you a bit more to buy, but in the long run save you a surgury.

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