|
01-22-2013, 12:39 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sherwood Park
Posts: 190
|
|
Removing Gun Bluing
I'm trying to refinish an M-96 that I accquired from Trade-Ex awhile ago. The barrel has a bunch of the bluing already worn off. I want to remove the remaining bluing, so I can get a nice, even finish.
I read in quite a few places that CLR will remove bluing like nothing else, so I tried it. It doesn't look like it worked. These are "after" pictures, showing the worn section, and rest of the barrel.
When the bluing is removed, will it leave white metal behind? Did the CLR work or not? What else can I try?
Thanks,
-C
__________________
To much oil money, never enough booze...
|
01-22-2013, 12:53 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,672
|
|
Try evaporust takes care of all the corrosion on your gun, including the bluing. Doesn't leave it shiny though kind of a dark color. I can't find the pictures I had of a couple i used it on. Sorry. A cheap handheld sandblaster from princess auto will take it right down to shiny metal, but leaves the surface a bit rough.
__________________
Upset a Lefty, Fly a Drone!
"I find it interesting that some folk will pay to use a range, use a golf course, use a garage bay but think landowners should have to give permission for free. Do these same people think hookers should be treated like landowners?" pitw
|
01-22-2013, 01:10 PM
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 15,830
|
|
Polish it.
__________________
“I love it when clients bring Berger bullets. It means I get to kill the bear.”
-Billy Molls
|
01-22-2013, 01:30 PM
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Alberta somewhere
Posts: 2,520
|
|
I know of 2 things that work great for taking off blueing. Both not on purpose of course. But the first is Evaporust which you can get at any CDN Tire and the other is salsa. I assume it is from the acidity. But I think with both, you might have a tough time re-applying blue after unless you neutralize the acid and give it a real good cleaning.
__________________
If your ad in the Buy & Sell is for an item that is sold, do us all a favour and mark the header SOLD - PLS REMOVE.
|
01-22-2013, 02:02 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,923
|
|
Vinegar should take off the bluing.
|
01-22-2013, 03:07 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: On the border in Lloydminster
Posts: 8,364
|
|
I bought a blue wonder kit with bluing remover for my Tradex winter project, it worked really well I hope the rebluing goes as well.
what were you going to finish your project it with ?
__________________
Si vis pacem, para bellum
|
01-22-2013, 03:08 PM
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,484
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShawnM
Vinegar should take off the bluing.
|
I agree. I've did it many times. Soak it in vinegar for 20 minutes, and fine steel wool will rub it right off.
|
01-22-2013, 03:13 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sherwood Park
Posts: 190
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by bat119
I bought a blue wonder kit with bluing remover for my Tradex winter project, it worked really well I hope the rebluing goes as well.
what were you going to finish your project it with ?
|
I have an Outers rebluing kit (the instructions on the kit say just to use the provided steel wool to rub off the existing finish- it didn't work)
__________________
To much oil money, never enough booze...
|
01-22-2013, 03:16 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sherwood Park
Posts: 190
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by eric2381
I agree. I've did it many times. Soak it in vinegar for 20 minutes, and fine steel wool will rub it right off.
|
When it rubs off, will it be white metal, or still dark/dull looking? Will it eliminate that line where it was previously worn?
__________________
To much oil money, never enough booze...
|
01-22-2013, 03:24 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: On the border in Lloydminster
Posts: 8,364
|
|
You have to polish the metal, I use scotchbrite pads then 400/600 grit emery cloth then finish up with steel wool and a buffing wheel.
__________________
Si vis pacem, para bellum
|
01-22-2013, 03:38 PM
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 321
|
|
i have the very same project going on right now. 600 grit sand paper is what you could just as well start with. the steel has to be polished to a mirror finish and thats the start you need
|
01-22-2013, 03:41 PM
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Peace River AB
Posts: 131
|
|
I've used vinegar with surprisingly good results.
Bluing Kits can be picked up from bass pro or Cabelas for a reasonable price I believe. Birchwood Casey is the one I found, there blue/ rust remover worked great.
|
01-22-2013, 03:45 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sherwood Park
Posts: 190
|
|
Thanks for the suggestions
__________________
To much oil money, never enough booze...
|
01-22-2013, 07:03 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Outside of Onoway
Posts: 821
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by 300backfire
i have the very same project going on right now. 600 grit sand paper is what you could just as well start with. the steel has to be polished to a mirror finish and thats the start you need
|
This is what I did. Now I will apply 'cerami-cote', should get a matte finish that is safe kiss resistant.
__________________
IT'S COMING RIGHT FOR US!!!!!!!
|
01-22-2013, 07:13 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sherwood Park
Posts: 190
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Attilathecanuk
This is what I did. Now I will apply 'cerami-cote', should get a matte finish that is safe kiss resistant.
|
This sounds interesting. Where can I find cerami- cote?
__________________
To much oil money, never enough booze...
|
01-22-2013, 07:47 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Outside of Onoway
Posts: 821
|
|
P&D enterprises. $37.00 and is supposed to do two rifles(we will see).
You spray it on and put it in your oven, kinda like a powder coat. I will post results when done!
__________________
IT'S COMING RIGHT FOR US!!!!!!!
|
01-22-2013, 08:12 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: On the border in Lloydminster
Posts: 8,364
|
|
Do you have to sandblast before applying ceracoat? I read the Duracoat instructions they recomended sandblasting before applying, I don't have the place or equipment for that operation so I passed.
__________________
Si vis pacem, para bellum
|
01-22-2013, 09:27 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Outside of Onoway
Posts: 821
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by bat119
Do you have to sandblast before applying ceracoat? I read the Duracoat instructions they recomended sandblasting before applying, I don't have the place or equipment for that operation so I passed.
|
800 grit sandpaper (princess auto) and elbow grease. The metal will be slightly roughed and it bonds better than if totally smooth. I am trying it on an old cooey 64b to see the results. If it works then the ole 12 gauge and sks may get it
__________________
IT'S COMING RIGHT FOR US!!!!!!!
|
01-22-2013, 09:40 PM
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 16
|
|
There are easy ways to remove the bluing but to get a quality finish back on the only way is the more labor intensive way of polishing for a satin look or a very intensive fine polish for a high luster finish. Bead blasting leaves a matte finish.
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:12 PM.
|