Garage Heater Question

[brslk]

My garage heater stopped working a couple days ago. The blower starts, runs for a bit and then you can hear the igniter trying to light it but nothing happens, then the fan stops. It will usually try a couple times. I checked the diagnostic indicator light and it was flashing twice slowly, supposedly leaning towards there being no gas. I have a sniffer and there was indeed no gas at the nozzle.
I'm thinking it's the gas valve inside the heater. It's a Sterling GG45 that's about ten years old and has never had a problem.

Just wondering if anyone has any ideas on ways to test it or things to try?
Maybe someone can recommend a furnace repair person in Edmonton?

I had to buy a 240V construction heater to keep the garage warm till I get it fixed as I have auto paint stored in the garage that can't freeze.

Thanks

[campingnut]

do you have a liquids trap you can check and then open the gas line slowly to give it a quick blow have doors open to vent gas. heater off, pull the orfices if you can and check, they can get gummed up, give the electrical a once over and check for loose connections,

[mac1983]

Flame sensor.

[Dewey Cox]

Check the leads to the gas valve.
If it's getting 24v during the point in the cycle where the gas valve should open, it's your gas valve. If you're not getting 24v, its something else.

[Dmay]

Flame sensor. Just replaced mine, same symptoms exactly.
Try clean it first, but I had to replace mine.

[crazyperch]

If its not lighting at all, its not the Flame sensor.

Follow Deweys recommendation.
If you dont have a meter to check, listen to the gas valve, you should hear a click when it opens.

[shawn]

Crack the union before the valve and make sure you have gas. If you have gas make sure you have 24 vac to the valve when the igniter is trying to light, if you have 24 vac to the valve and it doesn’t open you need a valve. If you don’t have 24 vac to the valve something else is wrong likely a board issue.

[Stinky Buffalo]

What Dewey said... Check leads for corrosion etc. Especially in an environment like a garage, oxidation on the leads/terminals can be an issue - particularly if you have millivolt components.

[Hilgy]

Originally Posted by Dewey Cox

Check the leads to the gas valve.
If it's getting 24v during the point in the cycle where the gas valve should open, it's your gas valve. If you're not getting 24v, its something else.

Even quicker, disconnect wires from the gas valve. apply 24v. if valve opens its your main board, if not its your valve. either way its an easy fix.

Also depending on the wattage of your 240v electric heater your running you may want to hurry. A 7500w heater keeping an insulated garage size building warm will burn through the cash fast.

[kidd]

Does you heater have a pressure switch or two? My home furnace seems to have had the same exact symptoms. Repair guy on the phone said to try bypass (jump) the pressure switch to determine if it was the pressure switch. It fired up instantly. $40 bucks. The code it was throwing was "no gas".
kidd

[crazy_davey]

Originally Posted by kidd

Does you heater have a pressure switch or two? My home furnace seems to have had the same exact symptoms. Repair guy on the phone said to try bypass (jump) the pressure switch to determine if it was the pressure switch. It fired up instantly. $40 bucks. The code it was throwing was "no gas".
kidd

Ha, that exact same thing happened to me just a week ago.

[Dewey Cox]

If the igniter is going, it's not the pressure switch.

[brslk]

Originally Posted by kidd

Does you heater have a pressure switch or two? My home furnace seems to have had the same exact symptoms. Repair guy on the phone said to try bypass (jump) the pressure switch to determine if it was the pressure switch. It fired up instantly. $40 bucks. The code it was throwing was "no gas".
kidd

I got the same advice from a friend and tried it. Bingo, pressure switch was bad. I was able to clear it with a pin but I ordered a new one anyway.

[brslk]

Originally Posted by Dewey Cox

If the igniter is going, it's not the pressure switch.

Tried your advice and the gas valve was not opening. It turned out to be the pressure switch. Which I'm glad about considering the gas valve is $400 and the pressure switch is $30.

Thanks for the help, much appreciated

[crazy_davey]

Now I know to keep extra pressure switch on hand. Never had that issue with older furnaces over the past 30 or more years.