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  #181  
Old 01-04-2022, 11:04 AM
obsessed1 obsessed1 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Demonical View Post
Shoot a deer skin a deer...



Holy crap the over-analysis that this thread has caused.



Crazy.



A ****ing $5 knife is every bit as good as the so-called $200 knife, which who the hell would spend $200 on a knife for skinning deer??
Totally disagree.
Yes shoot a deer skin a deer.....can be done with a 2$ knife...

Analyzing how our tools perform is exactly what we do some its about caliber, others about glass, or high tech clothing. Knives are no different.. for me a knife is extremely important as it might be the difference between being able to complete the job without wrecking my hands or paying for a few minutes work with pain for days. Efficiency of work makes a difference. Inefficient adds stresses and extra effort that while you may not notice it does or can play a toil. When I use a knife I want it to do the work not me. Some guys pay 400$ for a shirt because it performs above the level of a walmart camo. Knives are no different.

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  #182  
Old 01-04-2022, 11:06 AM
Pathfinder76 Pathfinder76 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Coiloil37 View Post
It was the second from the top on this pic. All of these are long since sold and are being enjoyed by others. One of which is owned by a member here.





Pick your poison though from Dozier or Crotts and youíll find the same level of performance. It wasnít specific to that knife, I just chose to use that knife that year.

I settled on these two in the end and Iím satisfied. I havenít been looking for anything new for a few years now. Well, except for a larger filleting knife but thatís in the works now.





I finish mine at 25 microns on a DMT ďfineĒ stone then a few (like two or three) light passes across a leather strop loaded with five micron diamond paste. I believe the relatively rough edge gives me higher cutting aggression then a finely polished edge. Itís still apexed properly and shaves like a razor but itís not highly polished. I may amend that procedure with the S90v being as itís got a finer steel matrix with smaller carbides but that will have to wait until I start hunting again and put it through a few animals. For D2 I still like the sharpening regime Iíve got and the performance it provides.
AG Russell wants a minimum $500 order to ship to Canada
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  #183  
Old 01-04-2022, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by chuck View Post
AG Russell wants a minimum $500 order to ship to Canada
I saw that too and laughed. Here are some others that carry the knives and don't have the stupid min limit.

https://www.arizonacustomknives.com/...er/crotts-dan/
https://forthenrycustomknives.com/
http://crottsknives.com/
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  #184  
Old 01-04-2022, 11:25 AM
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Nice knives Coiloil, out of my budget for sure but clintc may get an EMT from me in the near future.
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  #185  
Old 01-04-2022, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Dean2 View Post
Elk, you already know this but to be clear for others reading the thread; A good diamond sharpener of the correct grits or Silicon Carbide stone along with the correct technique, you can sharpen any knife at home. The biggest issue most guys have with hard steels is having the right stone and maintaining exactly the right angle. If they can't sharpen a hard knife, the edge they will put on a softer blade won't be great either. There is a reason so many Lansky type sharpeners are sold, they turn the average guy into a pro with very little practice.
I was the guy that ended up sharpening those knives, then I retired and moved away, and at least one guy is now paying a commercial business to sharpen his knife. It isn't that hard with the right tools, but some people can't be bothered to learn.
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  #186  
Old 01-04-2022, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Dean2 View Post
Elk, you already know this but to be clear for others reading the thread; A good diamond sharpener of the correct grits or Silicon Carbide stone along with the correct technique, you can sharpen any knife at home. The biggest issue most guys have with hard steels is having the right stone and maintaining exactly the right angle. If they can't sharpen a hard knife, the edge they will put on a softer blade won't be great either. There is a reason so many Lansky type sharpeners are sold, they turn the average guy into a pro with very little practice.
I asked Gene Ingrim once how he sharpened his product. He uses a lansky.
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  #187  
Old 01-04-2022, 01:10 PM
Ken3134 Ken3134 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Demonical View Post
Shoot a deer skin a deer...

Holy crap the over-analysis that this thread has caused.

Crazy.

A ****ing $5 knife is every bit as good as the so-called $200 knife, which who the hell would spend $200 on a knife for skinning deer??

This is a Skookum Bush Tool made for me by a custom knife maker in England. The design is based off of input from Mohrs Kohanski a Canadian author who was a Survival expert and Instructor in Alberta. RIP MohrsÖÖ.
Itís a $600 knife that I mostly whittle sticks with.
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  #188  
Old 01-04-2022, 01:41 PM
M.C. Gusto M.C. Gusto is offline
 
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Here is one of my fav knives. I had Cote copy my dads original McKee knives which are somewhat popular back in the Sudbury area and had these made for my wedding. Itís a Scandi grind with CPMs35.
I have a few more ďcustomsĒ made for me in all kinds of steels. One knife I have is made from debarker blades from a mill. I wish I knew what it was because it really holds an edge well.
I do however think the design of the Grohman knives from a design function are pretty much perfect. Yes the steel can be better, I have them in carbon steel which can get razor sharp quickly.
I have knives in all kinds of steels including the newest tool steels. The edge retention on them is a huge step forward but honestly sharpening them is a real real chore and is not for everyone.


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  #189  
Old 01-04-2022, 01:43 PM
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I've owned dozens of hunting knives over the years. I've sold some, gave many away as gifts etc. I have 2 new Benchmade knives (a folder & fixed blade) that I bought in the last year. Still have 3 or 4 Puma's and a set of Knives of Alaska. One thing that is very clear and has been mentioned already. Good steel comes at a cost. It can also be a bugger to sharpen. I got a Wicked Edge sharpener a few years back. It works great on any blade under 6" in length. But I also strop the edge when I'm done. A pine board, with a piece of leather glued onto it. Then I rub in some jewelers rouge that can be bought at Princess Auto for cheap. The difference between sharp and terrifyingly sharp is made by the strop. On another note, I bought my wife a very expensive 12 pcs set of kitchen knives for Christmas. Shun Classic, each hand crafted in Japan. The edge retention on these are suposed to be phenominol. Life time Limited warranty, and free life time sharpening. Do you need to spend 4 digits on kitchen knives? Nope. But I did, and there's no comparing them to the Henkels she retired after 30 years of service.
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  #190  
Old 01-04-2022, 01:46 PM
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Instead of forking our several hundred dollars on a knife you hope you wonít have to sharpen or get sharpened till the season is over . Go pick up a good old Buck or Kershaw or something similar ( I bet you can do it for under $100) brand and pack a decent knife steel in your bag. Learn how to sharpen your knife , itís not that tricky to do
I would rather have a lesser knife I could sharpen in the field if necessary than a super knife that canít be sharpened and gets dull due to some unforeseen circumstance.

Last deer I field dressed I did it with a Victorinox Swiss Army knife (Hunter version) I picked up at the fishin hole for $40 on sale. I wanted to see if it was capable. I managed somehow to do the job and still have an edge on the blade.It even has a saw which I used to split the pelvis and the brisket.

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  #191  
Old 01-04-2022, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Dean2 View Post
So Coiloil37

After deciding to give one of these super knives a try I have been doing a fair amount of research and trying to learn. I have a question. You claim the D2 knives you have from Crotts and Dozier have far superior edge holding capability. I have studied the chart you provided, read a bunch of stuff on Phil Wilson's site as well as other links you and they provided. I fail to understand how D2 steel accomplishes this when all the test results say S30V hold its edge longer at the same hardness. See the chart you provided below which show D2 at 500, S30V at 600 and S90V at nearly 800. What is it about the D2 steel treatment Crotts uses that makes his steel so much better than regular D2. I don't understand how his D2 steel knives would have superior edge holding to a quality s30V knife from a quality maker like Buck knives. Also, if D2 is so great why did you choose to make your last knife out of S90V, which has even higher edge retention scores than S30V. I know there is a good reason, I just don't understand it. Thanks for your help.


Thatís a question best suited to a conversation but Iíll attempt to condense some of it into a short(ish) answer. Thereís no way Iím going to be able to cover everything

First, no single test explains everything. At best it accurately shows the results produced in that test. Something like this chart above my post is fine, if your out in the woods with those knives cutting sand impregnated cards. It still didnít explain the exact heat treat for each steel and if it was optimal. It did state the blades were all identical and sharpened the same way and the test was run 3 times per blade. Which is cool but different steels require different blade profiles to perform their best, different thickness behind the edge, different edge finishes etc. A rope cutting test is good if your in the habit of turning long pieces of rope into shorter pieces of rope and he stated in his results what the knife was, the hardness and thickness behind the edge but that doesnít translate to performance on an animal or anything else. In short, neither test have anything to do with processing animals but theyíre good at showing the differences between steels under specific sets of conditions.

Iíve used a lot of steels in a lot of different knives and have my own opinions. I break it down depending on use and Iím conscientious of what Iím holding and what not to do with it.


There is steel choice, which is important but less so then what comes next. Then there is heat treat and the blade geometry. You could have a steel with an attribute you desire (perhaps itís wear resistance) but if it isnít heat treated properly it could be outperformed by what should be a lesser steel on paper. All the steel choice does is gives a hypothetical ceiling on performance, it doesnít immediately give you that performance though. All steel attributes are a trade off where you sacrifice one for another.
Blade grind and primary/secondary bevels make a difference. The thinner the steel at the edge the more efficiently it slices at the expense of strength. That includes the thickness of the stock, the grind and the final sharpening angle. Regardless if the steel isnít tough enough to maintain the apex it rolls or chips. If it is strong enough to maintain the apex, due to it being thinner it cuts more efficiently and requires less force to cut, which equates to less pressure and subsequently damage at the apexÖ edge retention goes up. That too is a trade off. Carbon steels on average are much tougher then stainless. You could grind 1095 thinner then S90v and it would be hair whittling sharp (think straight razor) but the S90v ground to an appropriate thickness would still go the distance in edge retention and media cut due to its wear resistance.

You wont find a factory knife ground as thin as some customs. Factory knives are built for the average guy who could do almost anything to it. Benchmade, spyderco, buck etc. donít need unhappy customers because their knife broke so they leave them thick enough to handle nearly anythingÖ at the expense of slicing ability. Iím a little short on factory knives around here but Iíve got a spyderco south fork in S90v which is a spyderco/Phil Wilson collaboration. Spyderco has said on different forums they ground it thinner then most factory knives to try and emulate the custom but mine measures .020 behind the edge and the Phil Wilson custom southfork measures .006-.008Ē.

To try and answer some questions. Idk what makes Doziers heat treat different. It is though, from what Iíve read D2 is relatively simple to heat treat compared to some other steels but google it and youíll find Bobs heat treat is legendary and deemed proprietary. He gets more from that steel then anyone else Iíve heard of.

Some of the performance has to do with his grind and itís performance on flesh. Itís not a grind I would choose for carving sticks and doing heavy work but for processing animals itís very good. The D2 he uses isnít the CPM variety and has relatively large vanadium carbides. Iíve rationalised to myself those large carbides maintain a very aggressively cutting ďtoothyĒ edge. Part of the reason they do is the media theyíre sharpened on (diamond) cut and shape the carbides. If I sharpened them on a softer stone where the abrasive was softer then the carbides I would expect less performance as the steel matrix around those carbides would be abraded by the stone, the carbides wouldnít be touched and would either be standing proud and unshaped on the apex to be ripped out while cutting or would be ripped out in the sharpening process as the steel matrix around them is removed. Sharpen them properly, at an angle large enough to leave them supported and let those carbides do their job and the cutting aggression and wear resistance is impressive.

I chose S90v out of pride and hope it will outperform D2. Pride because on paper itís a ďbetterĒ steel and not as vanilla as d2. Hope is where the meat and potatoes are. I know the heat treat is nailed down and the performance he provides with d2. I have no idea how well his S90v heat treat is. I do know itís more corrosion resistant, significantly more wear resistant and not as tough as d2. Given that Iím processing animals and not banging it off bones or hammering it through pelvises Iíll give up some toughness for the potential to have more edge retention. D2 isnít a stainless but even sitting here 200m from saltwater and 3km from the ocean I have zero corrosion issues on any of my knives. I am aware the salt in the air could be an issue with the d2 but I wouldnít expect it with the S90v. Itís entirely possible the S90v will be a disappointment once I start using it if his heat treat missed the mark. Itís also possible that the increased wear resistance leads to a longer lasting, hair whittling edge then d2.

Like I said I havenít used it yet. Iíve been so busy fishing I havenít bothered to hunt since I moved here. I did get permission on a property so once summers over Iíll start knocking deer down and using it. The red deer rut in April so a few more months and Iíll get it bloody.

Iíve owned/used the southfork and two folders in S90v. Iíve found it chippy for edc in the folders when hitting staples, rocks, steel etc but in a game processing knife Iíve never had a problem with it. Time will tell wonít it.
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  #192  
Old 01-04-2022, 03:58 PM
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This is like forged in fire x10000 lol
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  #193  
Old 01-04-2022, 04:01 PM
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This is like forged in fire x10000 lol
X2 his attention to detail is second to none.
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  #194  
Old 01-04-2022, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Coiloil37 View Post
Thatís a question best suited to a conversation but Iíll attempt to condense some of it into a short(ish) answer. Thereís no way Iím going to be able to cover everything

First, no single test explains everything. At best it accurately shows the results produced in that test. Something like this chart above my post is fine, if your out in the woods with those knives cutting sand impregnated cards. It still didnít explain the exact heat treat for each steel and if it was optimal. It did state the blades were all identical and sharpened the same way and the test was run 3 times per blade. Which is cool but different steels require different blade profiles to perform their best, different thickness behind the edge, different edge finishes etc. A rope cutting test is good if your in the habit of turning long pieces of rope into shorter pieces of rope and he stated in his results what the knife was, the hardness and thickness behind the edge but that doesnít translate to performance on an animal or anything else. In short, neither test have anything to do with processing animals but theyíre good at showing the differences between steels under specific sets of conditions.

Iíve used a lot of steels in a lot of different knives and have my own opinions. I break it down depending on use and Iím conscientious of what Iím holding and what not to do with it.


There is steel choice, which is important but less so then what comes next. Then there is heat treat and the blade geometry. You could have a steel with an attribute you desire (perhaps itís wear resistance) but if it isnít heat treated properly it could be outperformed by what should be a lesser steel on paper. All the steel choice does is gives a hypothetical ceiling on performance, it doesnít immediately give you that performance though. All steel attributes are a trade off where you sacrifice one for another.
Blade grind and primary/secondary bevels make a difference. The thinner the steel at the edge the more efficiently it slices at the expense of strength. That includes the thickness of the stock, the grind and the final sharpening angle. Regardless if the steel isnít tough enough to maintain the apex it rolls or chips. If it is strong enough to maintain the apex, due to it being thinner it cuts more efficiently and requires less force to cut, which equates to less pressure and subsequently damage at the apexÖ edge retention goes up. That too is a trade off. Carbon steels on average are much tougher then stainless. You could grind 1095 thinner then S90v and it would be hair whittling sharp (think straight razor) but the S90v ground to an appropriate thickness would still go the distance in edge retention and media cut due to its wear resistance.

You wont find a factory knife ground as thin as some customs. Factory knives are built for the average guy who could do almost anything to it. Benchmade, spyderco, buck etc. donít need unhappy customers because their knife broke so they leave them thick enough to handle nearly anythingÖ at the expense of slicing ability. Iím a little short on factory knives around here but Iíve got a spyderco south fork in S90v which is a spyderco/Phil Wilson collaboration. Spyderco has said on different forums they ground it thinner then most factory knives to try and emulate the custom but mine measures .020 behind the edge and the Phil Wilson custom southfork measures .006-.008Ē.

To try and answer some questions. Idk what makes Doziers heat treat different. It is though, from what Iíve read D2 is relatively simple to heat treat compared to some other steels but google it and youíll find Bobs heat treat is legendary and deemed proprietary. He gets more from that steel then anyone else Iíve heard of.

Some of the performance has to do with his grind and itís performance on flesh. Itís not a grind I would choose for carving sticks and doing heavy work but for processing animals itís very good. The D2 he uses isnít the CPM variety and has relatively large vanadium carbides. Iíve rationalised to myself those large carbides maintain a very aggressively cutting ďtoothyĒ edge. Part of the reason they do is the media theyíre sharpened on (diamond) cut and shape the carbides. If I sharpened them on a softer stone where the abrasive was softer then the carbides I would expect less performance as the steel matrix around those carbides would be abraded by the stone, the carbides wouldnít be touched and would either be standing proud and unshaped on the apex to be ripped out while cutting or would be ripped out in the sharpening process as the steel matrix around them is removed. Sharpen them properly, at an angle large enough to leave them supported and let those carbides do their job and the cutting aggression and wear resistance is impressive.

I chose S90v out of pride and hope it will outperform D2. Pride because on paper itís a ďbetterĒ steel and not as vanilla as d2. Hope is where the meat and potatoes are. I know the heat treat is nailed down and the performance he provides with d2. I have no idea how well his S90v heat treat is. I do know itís more corrosion resistant, significantly more wear resistant and not as tough as d2. Given that Iím processing animals and not banging it off bones or hammering it through pelvises Iíll give up some toughness for the potential to have more edge retention. D2 isnít a stainless but even sitting here 200m from saltwater and 3km from the ocean I have zero corrosion issues on any of my knives. I am aware the salt in the air could be an issue with the d2 but I wouldnít expect it with the S90v. Itís entirely possible the S90v will be a disappointment once I start using it if his heat treat missed the mark. Itís also possible that the increased wear resistance leads to a longer lasting, hair whittling edge then d2.

Like I said I havenít used it yet. Iíve been so busy fishing I havenít bothered to hunt since I moved here. I did get permission on a property so once summers over Iíll start knocking deer down and using it. The red deer rut in April so a few more months and Iíll get it bloody.

Iíve owned/used the southfork and two folders in S90v. Iíve found it chippy for edc in the folders when hitting staples, rocks, steel etc but in a game processing knife Iíve never had a problem with it. Time will tell wonít it.
Thank you for taking the time to write that out. I and I am sure a lot of others guys, learned a great deal from the posts you have made. Happy New Year.
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  #195  
Old 01-04-2022, 05:12 PM
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Thank you for taking the time to write that out. I and I am sure a lot of others guys, learned a great deal from the posts you have made. Happy New Year.
X2. I love your attention to detail and willingness to teach us. In the last years I have become much more attuned and interested in performance of all my tools...whether it's a knife, axe or saw. Performance is in the details. Anyone can go to a hardware store and buy an axe and chop down a tree...not many have the pleasure of swinging a properly shaped(sized) haft with a properly hardened /ground bit that not only bites deep but blows chips out and doesnt stick..its a thing of beauty.... knives are no different. The pleasure of using a properly made tool designed to perform is second to none

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  #196  
Old 01-04-2022, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by M.C. Gusto View Post

Here is one of my fav knives. I had Cote copy my dads original McKee knives which are somewhat popular back in the Sudbury area and had these made for my wedding. Itís a Scandi grind with CPMs35.
I have a few more ďcustomsĒ made for me in all kinds of steels. One knife I have is made from debarker blades from a mill. I wish I knew what it was because it really holds an edge well.
I do however think the design of the Grohman knives from a design function are pretty much perfect. Yes the steel can be better, I have them in carbon steel which can get razor sharp quickly.
I have knives in all kinds of steels including the newest tool steels. The edge retention on them is a huge step forward but honestly sharpening them is a real real chore and is not for everyone.


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I like the design of these knives for skinning. Nice collection you have. I like skinners with a deep belly and I can really appreciate the recurve in the bottom knife as it keeps your hand high and on top of what is being skinned vs your hand being in the way.
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  #197  
Old 01-04-2022, 08:03 PM
M.C. Gusto M.C. Gusto is offline
 
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I like the design of these knives for skinning. Nice collection you have. I like skinners with a deep belly and I can really appreciate the recurve in the bottom knife as it keeps your hand high and on top of what is being skinned vs your hand being in the way.
Thanks. That is why I like to recommend Grohman Knives, there handle design in relation to the blade.
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  #198  
Old 01-04-2022, 08:15 PM
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I have a knife in my box of goodies that is a nice ďlookingĒ knife but I know nothing about it as it was gifted to me.
The only stamp on the blade is FINNIE 02.

Anyone on here have any idea of the origin of this blade / what it is made of ? I have never tried it as I am not a big fan of the blade shape.

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  #199  
Old 01-04-2022, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jungleboy View Post
I have a knife in my box of goodies that is a nice ďlookingĒ knife but I know nothing about it as it was gifted to me.
The only stamp on the blade is FINNIE 02.

Anyone on here have any idea of the origin of this blade / what it is made of ? I have never tried it as I am not a big fan of the blade shape.
I would guess FINNIE is the name of the maker, or what the maker named the knife. O2 is probably the steel the knife is made out of. Itís not all that common that you see it, but if the heat treatment is good should be a decent blade you have there.

Ken
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  #200  
Old 01-04-2022, 09:01 PM
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I would guess FINNIE is the name of the maker, or what the maker named the knife. O2 is probably the steel the knife is made out of. Itís not all that common that you see it, but if the heat treatment is good should be a decent blade you have there.

Ken
O2 is a commonly used tool steel in traditional hand woodworking tools such as chisels, handplane blades, etc. I have quite a few O2 edge tools.
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  #201  
Old 01-04-2022, 09:06 PM
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Not typically sold as ďhuntingĒ knives but victorinox like the one linked above as well has henckels and F. Dick make good, purpose built skinning knivesÖ and they are a lot less than $200. Youíll have to get creative for a sheath though.
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  #202  
Old 01-04-2022, 09:15 PM
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This is my go to for the last couple years. As cheap as it is I've done 3 deer field to freezer without sharpening it. Spyderco Bow River.


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  #203  
Old 01-04-2022, 09:18 PM
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Thanks to those that took the time to explain. I went down the blade forums rabbit hole and will probably stick with a new Grohmann or Buck.

It is crazy how popular 420HC is for most of the big reputable knife manufacturers. I have a set in my pack made in China from Outdoor Edge. I bought them in a pinch many years ago and as much as I thought I would hate them, I really don't. They came with an idiot proof little sharpener and with a handful of swipes in the field you can shave with these things.

I really like the sound of the D2 but it is old school too I guess, according to the experts. It sounds an awful lot like my high carbon Grohmann.

Some of the makers on the forums are also going back to the older steels because their customers can not sharpen them. I love sharpening knives but I don't want to make a career out of it.

Anyway, I love leather boots, wool coats and classic cartridges. I guess I am just too old to buy into the super steel hype.
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  #204  
Old 01-04-2022, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by DirtShooter View Post
This is my go to for the last couple years. As cheap as it is I've done 3 deer field to freezer without sharpening it. Spyderco Bow River.


I am confused. Phil Wilson is a real high end custom knife maker. Did he partner with Spyderco? If he did then that is likely a great knife. If it was also inexpensive then massive bonus. Where did you pick it up.
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Old 01-04-2022, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Dean2 View Post
I am confused. Phil Wilson is a real high end custom knife maker. Did he partner with Spyderco? If he did then that is likely a great knife. If it was also inexpensive then massive bonus. Where did you pick it up.
Yes as far as I'm aware he must have done a couple collaborations with Spyderco or maybe a 1 off at least.

Found it on Amazon of all places, should have bought a few but like a dummy I did not. Lol

Cut my thumb bad with it the first time I took it to an animal, still cringe when I think about it lol.

Blade is nice and thin and like I said surprisingly sharp.
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Old 01-04-2022, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by DirtShooter View Post
Yes as far as I'm aware he must have done a couple collaborations with Spyderco or maybe a 1 off at least.

Found it on Amazon of all places, should have bought a few but like a dummy I did not. Lol

Cut my thumb bad with it the first time I took it to an animal, still cringe when I think about it lol.

Blade is nice and thin and like I said surprisingly sharp.
On sale at House of Knives
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  #207  
Old 01-04-2022, 09:58 PM
fishnguy fishnguy is online now
 
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Originally Posted by Dean2 View Post
I am confused. Phil Wilson is a real high end custom knife maker. Did he partner with Spyderco? If he did then that is likely a great knife. If it was also inexpensive then massive bonus. Where did you pick it up.
I believe there were a couple of ďeditionsĒ of that knife. The second is available at a few outlets in Canada. About $50 last I saw. Some mediocre steel, canít recall exactly what, but feel like below aus8 grade. I am sure it is fine for chopping deer apart.

Edit:

Donít know about this place, but it is only $39 there: https://foodzinga.ca/bow-river

This place is legit: https://www.warriorsandwonders.com/S...Leather_Sheath (I think their shipping is reasonable $10, or it was for knives I bought from there in the past)

Last edited by fishnguy; 01-04-2022 at 10:06 PM.
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  #208  
Old 01-04-2022, 10:04 PM
bsmitty27 bsmitty27 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by MK2750 View Post

I really like the sound of the D2 but it is old school too I guess, according to the experts. It sounds an awful lot like my high carbon Grohmann.


Anyway, I love leather boots, wool coats and classic cartridges. I guess I am just too old to buy into the super steel hype.
I have the Ontario knife co, Rat 1in D2 that I have carried daily for 3 years now, I beat that knife up, its my multi tool, LOL!
It holds an edge very good, and is my easiest knife to sharpen. For 60.00 its a winner.
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Old 01-04-2022, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Dean2 View Post
I am confused. Phil Wilson is a real high end custom knife maker. Did he partner with Spyderco? If he did then that is likely a great knife. If it was also inexpensive then massive bonus. Where did you pick it up.

Theyíve done a few with Phil. They also did the sprig and southfork in this green G10 and S90v.

Iíve got the southfork








I knew when I bought it but the blade is to big and itís got to much tip. Itís not a bad knife but itís not my style. I just had to try it even though I knew better.
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Old 01-04-2022, 11:25 PM
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I have the Ontario knife co, Rat 1in D2 that I have carried daily for 3 years now, I beat that knife up, its my multi tool, LOL!
It holds an edge very good, and is my easiest knife to sharpen. For 60.00 its a winner.
One of best deals on the market today. Just a simple, quality folder thats tough as nails. I've given a few away to friends and family looking for a good folder to wander the woods with. Proof that there's still some great deals out there.

This thread is sad. People can't have discussion without the holier than thou group coming out of the wood work. Want to use a kitchen knife to field dress and you're happy? Cool. Want to use a $600 San Mai blade with mammoth tooth handle and silver bolsters to bone out sheep? Get it done.

Old school still works and that's great. Carrying an heirloom, or just a repro even, and enjoying it is awesome and no more or less than having modern steels with lab rat quality heat treats and G10.

Some folks need to stop being crappy people, drop the passive aggressive crap and enjoy talking about what makes you tick.
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Last edited by jungleboy; 01-04-2022 at 11:40 PM.
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