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Old 01-16-2023, 04:10 PM
Buckshot82 Buckshot82 is offline
 
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Exclamation Resizing brass issues

Hey, as the title says I知 having issues with resizing my brass, i am using an rcbs full length die for 6.5 Creedmoor, I just recently purchased a lyman reloading kit and am trying to work up my first load for one of my rifles, I am using once fired factory Hornady brass that was fired from my rifle.
The current issue I知 having is the shell is getting stuck inside the die, I am using the lyman spray lube that came in the kit, the shell gets between half and three quarters of the way into the die and is stopping, even if I put almost all my body pressure onto the press it just won稚 budge. I removed the stuck brass and tried again, this time with a very generous amount of lubricant and same issue. I知 wondering if it痴 something to do with the lubricant I知 using and if I should try a paste or if I知 just missing something here.
I apologize for dragging this out I just want to give as much info as possible
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Old 01-16-2023, 05:18 PM
fps plus fps plus is offline
 
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Try a different lube ! Mink oil works as well
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Old 01-16-2023, 05:20 PM
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You may have your depriming stem too high
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Old 01-16-2023, 05:26 PM
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I hate that spray lube, always seems to leave dry spots on the brass, I use the RCBS lube on a lube pad, roll the case back and forth never had a stuck case in 45 years
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Old 01-16-2023, 05:44 PM
Dmay Dmay is offline
 
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Sounds like your chamber may be a little generous and your brass needs quite a bit of resizing. As others have said, that particular lube isn't really great.
Try to get hold of something better. The very best, in my view, is Forster Case Sizing Lubricant. It is the go-to for forming operations, the toughest work on brass. Otherwise, Imperial Sizing Wax has been super popular for half a century, and for very good reason. One other worth mentioning is RCBS case lube, although I don't know if they still make it or if it's the same as it was years ago.
Worth mentioning is to make sure your die is super-clean inside. Also, inspect it with a bore-scope if you can. There have been cases of rough machine-finishing which will hang up brass badly.
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Old 01-16-2023, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fps plus View Post
You may have your depriming stem too high
This.
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Old 01-16-2023, 06:07 PM
buckman buckman is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmay View Post
Sounds like your chamber may be a little generous and your brass needs quite a bit of resizing. As others have said, that particular lube isn't really great.
Try to get hold of something better. The very best, in my view, is Forster Case Sizing Lubricant. It is the go-to for forming operations, the toughest work on brass. Otherwise, Imperial Sizing Wax has been super popular for half a century, and for very good reason. One other worth mentioning is RCBS case lube, although I don't know if they still make it or if it's the same as it was years ago.
Worth mentioning is to make sure your die is super-clean inside. Also, inspect it with a bore-scope if you can. There have been cases of rough machine-finishing which will hang up brass badly.
All valid points,I think its probably the die though.Even with poor lube the case should go in easier than that.Will your cases still fit in the chamber after firing and before resizing? Try measuring them to see how much they have expanded against spec.
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Old 01-16-2023, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fps plus View Post
You may have your depriming stem too high
This would be my guess. If the expander button is to high in the die it will obstruct the neck from going up into the neck section of the die and prevent the case from going any further into the die. Screw your expander button rod down into the die a few turns and see if it corrects the problem. Just don't put it down so far that the expander button hits the bottom of the case.
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Old 01-16-2023, 06:16 PM
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When I am sizing brass, I stick about 30 or 40 cases in a larger margarine tub, squirt about 1" of Lee lube onto my finger and swirl it around the upper lip of the tub.
Put the lid on and turn it upside down, shake and spin the tub for about 20 seconds, and done.
that simple. Never stuck and case and never had over lube issues..
When just doing a few I use Imperial sizing die wax however
Cat
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Old 01-16-2023, 06:46 PM
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Remove the sizing stem and use it as a body die only, if it works then you know it's a button issue as suggested or need a change of lube brands.
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Old 01-16-2023, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
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Remove the sizing stem and use it as a body die only, if it works then you know it's a button issue as suggested or need a change of lube brands.
That's what I would try first as well
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Old 01-16-2023, 07:11 PM
Buckshot82 Buckshot82 is offline
 
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Okay I will look into all of these when I get home this evening. I stopped at cabelas and the only sizing lube they had was hornady one shot so I grabbed the last tin just for the fun of it. I’ll take the sizing stem out and see how that works as well as check the fired brass in my chamber and compare it to new brass. Thank you for all the replies I will update with my results
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Old 01-16-2023, 07:18 PM
Smokinyotes Smokinyotes is offline
 
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Hornady one shot works great. It痴 all I use. While your taking out the seating stem clean the die. I use brake clean and paper towel.
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Old 01-16-2023, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Smokinyotes View Post
Hornady one shot works great. It痴 all I use. While your taking out the seating stem clean the die. I use brake clean and paper towel.
Yes, excellent suggestion.
The one and only time I stuck a case in a die was in FLS die I borrowed from a buddy, after making the stuck case removal tool, I looked at the dirtiest, gummed up die I've ever seen.
Lesson learned, even new dies need cleaning before use.
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Old 01-16-2023, 11:53 PM
Buckshot82 Buckshot82 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Smokinyotes View Post
Hornady one shot works great. It痴 all I use. While your taking out the seating stem clean the die. I use brake clean and paper towel.
Cleaned out the die of the small amounts of grease inside of it, removed the expander and used the hornady one shot and the case went into the die smooth, installed the expander and it works perfectly now! A combo of bad lube and a dirty die from the factory will do it! Thank you to everyone who contributed!
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Old 01-17-2023, 05:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckshot82 View Post
Cleaned out the die of the small amounts of grease inside of it, removed the expander and used the hornady one shot and the case went into the die smooth, installed the expander and it works perfectly now! A combo of bad lube and a dirty die from the factory will do it! Thank you to everyone who contributed!
Look into getting a Lee Collet die for your 6.5. They neck size only and do not require lube. Add this to annealing your brass and you will have your brass lasting a long time and fit perfectly to that specific rifle.

There are many reviews out there on the collets dies. Well worth looking into.
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Old 01-17-2023, 06:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperCub View Post
Look into getting a Lee Collet die for your 6.5. They neck size only and do not require lube. Add this to annealing your brass and you will have your brass lasting a long time and fit perfectly to that specific rifle.

There are many reviews out there on the collets dies. Well worth looking into.
Let's hear what Eric has to say about neck sizing only.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLG2kSrD40g
If you're going this route you will need a body die or FL die at some point.

ima gonna fire up the popcorn machine.
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Old 01-17-2023, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLab View Post
If you're going this route you will need a body die or FL die at some point.
This is correct. Eventually, the shoulder will need a bump.
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Old 01-17-2023, 07:45 AM
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It should be bumped every time.
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Old 01-17-2023, 08:00 AM
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It should be bumped every time.
I don't require that, whereas you might.
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Old 01-17-2023, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by SuperCub View Post
I don't require that, whereas you might.
Ok, that's up to you, it's your rifle/brass.

My thought's, along with many others on this subject based on personal experience is that brass lasts longer FLS each time, minimal shoulder bump, along with annealing rather then firing them 4-7 or more times stretching the brass to it's furthest limits, then instead of bumping say 2 thou. now you're having to bump the shoulders back 5 thou or more, over working the brass more than necessary during the sizing process.

I can't see how this creates longer lasting more consistent brass.
Also creates varying internal case capacities, slight differences, but still there.
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Old 01-17-2023, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by DLab View Post
Ok, that's up to you, it's your rifle/brass.

My thought's, along with many others on this subject based on personal experience is that brass lasts longer FLS each time, minimal shoulder bump, along with annealing rather then firing them 4-7 or more times stretching the brass to it's furthest limits, then instead of bumping say 2 thou. now you're having to bump the shoulders back 5 thou or more, over working the brass more than necessary during the sizing process.

I can't see how this creates longer lasting more consistent brass.
Also creates varying internal case capacities, slight differences, but still there.
This may very well all be true. Change for me is a process and a part of the learning curve. I try to keep an open mind on such things.
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Old 01-17-2023, 08:44 AM
marky_mark marky_mark is offline
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Originally Posted by DLab View Post
Ok, that's up to you, it's your rifle/brass.

My thought's, along with many others on this subject based on personal experience is that brass lasts longer FLS each time, minimal shoulder bump, along with annealing rather then firing them 4-7 or more times stretching the brass to it's furthest limits, then instead of bumping say 2 thou. now you're having to bump the shoulders back 5 thou or more, over working the brass more than necessary during the sizing process.

I can't see how this creates longer lasting more consistent brass.
Also creates varying internal case capacities, slight differences, but still there.
X2
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Old 01-17-2023, 09:46 AM
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Back in the early 80's I was heavy into IHMSA, loaded and shot 10's of thousands of rounds, I had a 14" TC in 7TCU and a Remington XP100 in 7mmBR Remington, there was no commercial brass available and we had to make and fire form every piece of brass we had, it was a long drawn out process in the case of the BR when you started out with a 308 case.

At that time the rage was to neck size only as that increased brass life and accuracy and was way faster loading because you didn't have to lube the case, well it didn't take me long to realize that was not the case at all, stuck cases and hard to chamber rounds all convinced me to go back to FL resizing and to this day every brass I have gets FL resized every time I load them. Also back then we didn't have the internet and I had never heard of annealing brass so of course I never did it and still don't, maybe it's just me being an old fart but what I have been doing for 45 years still works great so why would I change.
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Old 01-17-2023, 11:31 AM
Smokinyotes Smokinyotes is offline
 
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On my 257wby and 270wsm, I could measure my brass and it would be below max trim length. After full length resizing, dragging the expander ball through the neck and then checking trim length again the cases stretched above max trim length. I then bought Redding neck dies and it solved this issue but I still have to do a full length resize every 3rd time. What I probably should have done is just bought bushing dies.
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Old 01-17-2023, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokinyotes View Post
On my 257wby and 270wsm, I could measure my brass and it would be below max trim length. After full length resizing, dragging the expander ball through the neck and then checking trim length again the cases stretched above max trim length. I then bought Redding neck dies and it solved this issue but I still have to do a full length resize every 3rd time. What I probably should have done is just bought bushing dies.
That's why you should always trim to length after sizing. I use bushing FL dies pretty much exclusively along with a mandrel expander die for my target guns.
Hunting guns I use a both types, some bushing, some expander ball dies.
Try using your FL die each time and just bumping the shoulders back 1.5-2 thou.

Do you lube inside the necks when expanding? Seems like a lot of difference you've mentioned. I tape the stem and spin the expander ball in a drill and use 800 grit to smooth, then polish to a mirror finish to reduce drag.
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Old 01-17-2023, 02:04 PM
Smokinyotes Smokinyotes is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLab View Post
That's why you should always trim to length after sizing. I use bushing FL dies pretty much exclusively along with a mandrel expander die for my target guns.
Hunting guns I use a both types, some bushing, some expander ball dies.
Try using your FL die each time and just bumping the shoulders back 1.5-2 thou.

Do you lube inside the necks when expanding? Seems like a lot of difference you've mentioned. I tape the stem and spin the expander ball in a drill and use 800 grit to smooth, then polish to a mirror finish to reduce drag.
Yes I lube the inside of the necks. Prior to doing anymore full length sizing I will have to try polishing up the expander ball. If that doesn稚 work I値l look for bushing dies.
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Old 01-17-2023, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokinyotes View Post
Yes I lube the inside of the necks. Prior to doing anymore full length sizing I will have to try polishing up the expander ball. If that doesn稚 work I値l look for bushing dies.
I would buy a Mandrel die instead of a bushing die
Your concerned about the inside diameter not the outside
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Old 01-17-2023, 03:00 PM
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About the only thing I didn't see mentioned for the OP's issue, is cleaning out the vent hole on RCBS dies, although his cleaning, changing lube, and pulling the decap rod seems to have done the trick, the symptoms he presented could have indicated that it's being plugged, was a possibility as well.

I'm somewhat on the fence with neck vs FLS, haven't had any major issues with neck only, trying out neck/bump dies hasn't hurt or obviously improved anything. I'm lazy and when I can just get away with neck/bump and not having to wipe lube all over cases and just use the case neck brushes with the dry lube, I do.
Have one gun that has an FLS die only, without another custom die purchase, but, it is a hunting gun, so it needs FLS anyway, I grin and bear it for range rounds, along with one strictly range gun that I want to tweak as best I can towards seeing what I can do with bugholes.

I am a firm believer in mandrel expanding vs the sizer buttons helping with case stretch, even with using the case neck graphite on every round I've loaded, and the mandrels adding a step, and some expense, it's still worth it. I was usng them long ago for cast bullets, didn't take a lot of convincing once I started with using those, I started switching out PDQ.
It's the ease of expanding that convinced me, runout is no better or worse, tension change ability is a bonus, and the amount of trimming is a small improvement gain I've noticed over time, between that and neck only or neck/bump combined.
3way trimming and the case prep unit with pocket brush has been a big labour & time saver, definitely worth the loot spent, and it can be done with not too heavy of an expense.
I did get spoiled with shooting the 32-30 and 32-40 in the schuetzen rifles, next to no recoil, load at the range, zero case prep other than primer pockets, case life isn't much of a consideration at all, more of an afterthought, have to cast & lube bullets though.
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Old 01-17-2023, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marky_mark View Post
I would buy a Mandrel die instead of a bushing die
Your concerned about the inside diameter not the outside
You are concerned about work hardening brass as well. A bushing die allows you to size the outside dimension of the neck minimally. Then bring it to final ID with a mandrel.
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