Homemade Mineral Lick

Zorkfob · #1 08-10-2010, 08:17 AM

I saw a recipe for a homemade mineral lick that uses DiCalcium Phosphate. It is a Dairy Cattle Feed additive, but I talked to the guy at UFA and he had no clue... Anyone have any idea on where to get this from? Or mabey it goes by a different name?

Recipe was found here:
http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/wild...up-recipe.html
and here:
http://forum.deeranddeerhunting.com/tm.aspx?m=202

nube · #2 08-10-2010, 08:25 AM

i bought mine at a feed lot store. Mix in your trace minerals and a bag of non iodized salts and the kicker is dried molases. Teh molases and salts are what gets them started. Tehy won't just lick the other stuff on it's own.

ChrisRenaud · #3 08-10-2010, 08:26 AM

I bought all my stuff at Coop... I believe the Di-calcium phosphate stuff is called beef mineral... I have 2:1 ratio.. Ill check when i get home and let you know for sure.

timba · #4 08-10-2010, 11:43 AM

how long into the year do run a mineral lick?

Alpine Archer · #5 08-10-2010, 11:50 AM

I just throw a brown selenium mineral lick block out at my place and it brings all the critters in like you wouldn't believe. I have countless trail cam pics of moose, deer, elk, bears, dogs, and even a nosy neighbor...
I'll be posting pics of one very nice WT as soon as I get a new sync cable...

Zorkfob · #6 08-10-2010, 12:49 PM

This will be my first mineral lick, but with 200 pounds im hoping to do 2 licks year round.

Not doing it just to bring them around, but would like to help them out with their health as much as possible. Healthy deer are live deer in the winter.

Oh and the calcium might help with the racks too haha.

Nube,

Whats the diff between Iodized / non iodized? I found Cobalt Iodized Stock salt, and was thinking about using that... Bad Idea?

SLH · #7 08-10-2010, 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zorkfob

I saw a recipe for a homemade mineral lick that uses DiCalcium Phosphate. It is a Dairy Cattle Feed additive, but I talked to the guy at UFA and he had no clue... Anyone have any idea on where to get this from? Or mabey it goes by a different name?

Recipe was found here:
http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/wild...up-recipe.html
and here:
http://forum.deeranddeerhunting.com/tm.aspx?m=202

Why don't you just go to your local feed mill and ask for a high quality mineral mix with or without salt. If you go to a place like Viterra they would probably have a ruminant nutritionist there that would be happy to hear about something other than dairy, beef and hogs and would give you something that would be quite a bit better than a simple mix like that recipe suggests. A high end beef breeding mineral mix that is already in 50 lb bags would only be around $35.00 and you don't have to guess if you have the ratios right.

nube · #8 08-10-2010, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SLH

Why don't you just go to your local feed mill and ask for a high quality mineral mix with or without salt. If you go to a place like Viterra they would probably have a ruminant nutritionist there that would be happy to hear about something other than dairy, beef and hogs and would give you something that would be quite a bit better than a simple mix like that recipe suggests. A high end beef breeding mineral mix that is already in 50 lb bags would only be around $35.00 and you don't have to guess if you have the ratios right.

Good advice.

I was once told to use the non iodized stuff but don't really know why.
I don't think straight minerals will work because i was told they will not be attracted to straight minerals. That is why a portion of your mix has to have salt and I was told to use the dried mollases as it will give them something they crave and the supplements are just a bonus you can sneek in there. Kind of like feeding your kids vegetables and hiding it somehow and tricking them. Seems to work for me. I made my stuff up bu then later just went to the brown cattle blocks. i believe they have the proper mix of stuff in it.

SLH · #9 08-10-2010, 01:41 PM

It's always better to have a balanced amount of most minerals due to the fact that some minerals interfere with absorbtion of other minerals (phosphorous v. calcium, molybdenum v. phosphourous) also a high end mineral will have minerals in a form that is easier to absorb (chelated minerals). Salt as an attractant I'm not sure about but if an animal is short on anything then I suppose it could be. The molasses however is probably close to candy for them so it will help with consumption. Not sure about the iodine issue but it possibly has to do with the amount available some levels can get close to toxic levels but not sure.

Okotokian · #10 08-10-2010, 01:45 PM

What period of time would have to transpire between using such a thing and hunting, for it not to be legally considered baiting? Is there anything in the regs or Act?

Alpine Archer · #11 08-10-2010, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zorkfob

This will be my first mineral lick, but with 200 pounds im hoping to do 2 licks year round.

Not doing it just to bring them around, but would like to help them out with their health as much as possible. Healthy deer are live deer in the winter.

Oh and the calcium might help with the racks too haha.

Nube,

Whats the diff between Iodized / non iodized? I found Cobalt Iodized Stock salt, and was thinking about using that... Bad Idea?

The brown mineral blocks are a great way to go. These are the same ones I use for my horses, as reccomended by our vet and used by nearly all horseowners in our area, They are balanced specifically for proper absorption and have selenium which is a key nutrient lacking in our local pastures. No mess or mixing. The ungulates love it, and once the block is gone they continue to rip up the ground and extract whatever salt is left. I don't think there is any question that these blocks give the ungulates what they need to maximize their health...I go through at least two of these blocks every spring and summer in the one location where I put them out next to my pond.

nube · #12 08-10-2010, 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alpine Archer

The brown mineral blocks are a great way to go. These are the same ones I use for my horses, as reccomended by our vet and used by nearly all horseowners in our area, They are balanced specifically for proper absorption and have selenium which is a key nutrient lacking in our local pastures. No mess or mixing. The ungulates love it, and once the block is gone they continue to rip up the ground and extract whatever salt is left. I don't think there is any question that these blocks give the ungulates what they need to maximize their health...I go through at least two of these blocks every spring and summer in the one location where I put them out next to my pond.

Yes, i get the ones with the Selenium as well. i think it is healthy for the mothers to grow newborns i believe from what I read once. I went to the blocks because of cost and because they are the proper mix.

Okatokan, we have been through your question a million times. I know you enjoy stiring the pot here. The fact is that it is illegal to hunt over. PERIOD!!!
I don't buy the removal of the block either as there is residual left on the ground. GREY are perhaps. But also it is no big deal in a way because if you do do it you will see that come November they do not use it very much. The females use it more than the bucks do and if you were to target a certain deer off of it in the winter you will be spending a lot of time in your treestand to do it. So even if it was legal, good luck with it is what I am saying.

Okotokian · #13 08-10-2010, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nube

Okatokan, we have been through your question a million times. I know you enjoy stiring the pot here. The fact is that it is illegal to hunt over. PERIOD!!!

No stirring intended. It was an innocent straightforward question, not an accusation.

So take the lick away and then hunt the next day and you are legal?

TUFFBUFF · #14 08-10-2010, 03:43 PM

Di-Cal is part of the mix to get you cal/phos ratio to balance - 2:1 is a safe bet depending on whats in the forage, if you know what's in the forage you can twaek it ( eg alfalfa has lots of Ca ) - so 1:1 is better.

Iodized salt has iodine molecule added to it - iodine is reqired for certain functions of the body, too much is toxic, as is selinium, but most soils in Ab are selinum deficient, as the reason for the brown blocks. They probably can't lick enough iodized salt to hurt them though.

The brown blocks trace mineral package is next to nothing and most of it is unavailble to the animal, except the selinium.

Loose cattle mineral with 30-40% salt and an area specific mineral package, sweeten with dried molasses to get them to eat it - aim for up to 1 ounce/hd/day.

nube · #15 08-10-2010, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TUFFBUFF

Di-Cal is part of the mix to get you cal/phos ratio to balance - 2:1 is a safe bet depending on whats in the forage, if you know what's in the forage you can twaek it ( eg alfalfa has lots of Ca ) - so 1:1 is better.

Iodized salt has iodine molecule added to it - iodine is reqired for certain functions of the body, too much is toxic, as is selinium, but most soils in Ab are selinum deficient, as the reason for the brown blocks. They probably can't lick enough iodized salt to hurt them though.

The brown blocks trace mineral package is next to nothing and most of it is unavailble to the animal, except the selinium.

Loose cattle mineral with 30-40% salt and an area specific mineral package, sweeten with dried molasses to get them to eat it - aim for up to 1 ounce/hd/day.

So i guess the main question is , what is the best for the animals? Blocks of some kind or a mix of stuff? If you say the brown blocks will not help much then what will? I figured trace minerals would be the way to go but i know nothing about it. i know that it helps to have a high protein and calcium and selenium. Any thought os what the proper mix would be for the benifit of the animals.

redneck posse · #16 08-10-2010, 04:09 PM

what about that monster mix minneral sup?? after reading this thread would it be any good. its supposed to be a mix of minerals.

nube · #17 08-10-2010, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redneck posse

what about that monster mix minneral sup?? after reading this thread would it be any good. its supposed to be a mix of minerals.

Not for the price tag it isn't. Wouldn't last as long either

MountainTi · #18 08-10-2010, 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nube

Okatokan, we have been through your question a million times. I know you enjoy stiring the pot here. The fact is that it is illegal to hunt over. PERIOD!!!

If he is ignored long enough, perhaps he will just go away?

nube · #19 08-10-2010, 05:42 PM

I have hopes that will happen. I never have seen anything he has contributed to this board of any importance.

TUFFBUFF · #20 08-11-2010, 12:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nube

So i guess the main question is , what is the best for the animals? Blocks of some kind or a mix of stuff? If you say the brown blocks will not help much then what will? I figured trace minerals would be the way to go but i know nothing about it. i know that it helps to have a high protein and calcium and selenium. Any thought os what the proper mix would be for the benifit of the animals.

Not 100% sure Nube, I took quite a few livestock nutrition courses in college so I know a fair bit, a little rusty and no scientist.

Google ropin the web ( alberta agriculture ) and type in minerals in the search and read a bit, it will get you started in the right direction. I'll reply what I think tommorrow --- too tired now

Cheers

H380 · #21 08-11-2010, 07:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Okotokian

No stirring intended. It was an innocent straightforward question, not an accusation.

So take the lick away and then hunt the next day and you are legal?

Sounds straight forward enough to me Okotokian .don't know where the testiness on nubes part comes in ..

Roughneck Country · #22 08-11-2010, 07:26 AM

I was thinking of dropping a blue salt block as well as the brown mineral block then adding a bunch of cracked corn or some other type of feed you can buy in a bag from one of those horse places then setting up a trail cam.

I would really love to try and get some pics of sheep using salt but I think I will just try the blocks for now in the woods to attract deer/elk etc...

I was also wondering about table salt? Would it be worth putting some of that on the ground by the blocks?

Thoughts?

Zorkfob · #23 08-11-2010, 07:33 AM

Thanks for all the input guys. The Mineral blocks are a great start, but I don't think they offer enough, which is why Id like to go with something like this mix. When I read the following, the mix sounded like it has it all, but talking about not givng the "Correct Ratios" is a bit scary... I really don't want to harm the animals. Is that really possible doing this?

Quote:

Not 100% sure Nube, I took quite a few livestock nutrition courses in college so I know a fair bit, a little rusty and no scientist.

Google ropin the web ( alberta agriculture ) and type in minerals in the search and read a bit, it will get you started in the right direction. I'll reply what I think tommorrow --- too tired now

Cheers

Looking forward to your reply TUFFBUFF.

As for the hunting question.... Going with the mix in the dirt, it ain't possible to "take it away, and hunt the next day" As for the blocks... I'm sure people do it, but like Nube said, good luck.

Quote:

Vitamins

Vitamins are very important to the deer’s diet because the organic compounds are needed to support all the deer’s life stages. The level of vitamins A, D & E in your feed manages the deer’s absorption of calcium and phosphorus affecting not only their skeletal structures and teeth, but also the buck’s rack growth and the does fawning nutrition. Let’s face it a lot of hunters are becoming to deer management what farmers are to cattle management. We want the highest quality product we can get, and that’s large healthy bodies on our deer and we want large racks on our bucks. Along with the right genetics, here’s what deer need:

1. Vitamin A – The naturally occurring molecule also called retinoid. Affects the deer’s immune system, cellular function, normal vision, healthy skin and maintenance of the digestive and reproductive systems.
2. Vitamin D – Responsible for getting the all important bone builders – calcium and phosphorus where they can aid bone health, plus antler development and growth. Without this key nutrient as part of your deer supplemental feed program you will NOT grow larger racks, so make sure your supplemental feeds contain vitamin D!
3. Vitamin E – Boosts the deer’s immune system to fight off infectious diseases, helps them deal with stressful periods such as harsh winters, droughts and post rut stress, and also is an antioxidant which is associated with selenium.

Minerals
Minerals are important in a deer’s diet because they are essential to antler, bone and tooth development, plus hormone activation and water balance.

Macro Minerals: Minerals that are needed in large amounts, includes; calcium, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, sodium and sulfur.

1. Calcium – Absorbed through the small intestines then into the bloodstream. Combines with phosphorus to help harden crystal-like substances that create the foundation which strong antler, bone and teeth are developed.
2. Phosphorus - The second ½ of antler, bone and teeth formation combined with calcium. Important to help regulate the release of energy that fuels the deer’s body. Most of a deer’s phosphorus content is located in their bones. You don’t want your bucks pulling nutrition out of their bones to grow their racks, hence the need for supplementation.
3. Potassium – Critical to proper pH balance and an aid in digestion. Along with sodium chloride helps to form electrolytes, electrically charged ions that make up a deer’s bodily fluids.
4. Magnesium – Used to make sure calcium is used properly in the body, needed for strong teeth and bones. Helps turn food into energy, assists nerves and muscles.
5. Sodium – A natural carrier needed for trace minerals. Helps with absorption of amino acids. Animals naturally desire the sodium and chloride found in salt, more so than any other mineral.
6. Sulfur – Helps in the digestion of foods, found in tendons, ligaments and cartilage.

Trace Minerals: Minerals needed in much smaller amounts by deer. They are copper, iron, zinc, manganese, cobalt, iodine and selenium. These minerals are tied to all systems within the deer’s natural development.

Dick284 · #24 08-11-2010, 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by H380

Sounds straight forward enough to me Okotokian .don't know where the testiness on nubes part comes in ..

I have to agree too.

For photographic purposes is one thing, but it sure appears a lot of people would sooner live with one foot over the line.

FWIW: You guys do know that many F&W officers cruise this site both as members and non members.

Not sayin, but I'm only sayin.

Okotokian · #25 08-11-2010, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dick284

I have to agree too.

For photographic purposes is one thing, but it sure appears a lot of people would sooner live with one foot over the line.

FWIW: You guys do know that many F&W officers cruise this site both as members and non members.

Not sayin, but I'm only sayin.

Thanks Dick. I even understand why nube doesn't want to answer the question. That's his right. Sad he has to be so rude about it though. Oh well, takes all types.

Zorkfob · #26 08-11-2010, 01:15 PM

Quote:

For photographic purposes is one thing, but it sure appears a lot of people would sooner live with one foot over the line.

FWIW: You guys do know that many F&W officers cruise this site both as members and non members.

Not sayin, but I'm only sayin.

This wasnt a deer baiting thread, it was a Vitamin/Mineral suppliments for deer thread. If I only wanted to bait Deer, then why would I care about calcium/ Phosphorus, Vit A,D,E etc. Not everyone out there "live with a foot over the line" My feet are fine where they are thanks. The only person in this thread that hinted about baiting is the same one you are agreeing with.

[QUOTE:Okotokian]So take the lick away and then hunt the next day and you are legal? [/QUOTE]

And I'm not saying he was thinking about doing it either... I would give him the benifit of the doubt that he was just curious on the rules.

Okotokian · #27 08-11-2010, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zorkfob

And I'm not saying he was thinking about doing it either... I would give him the benifit of the doubt that he was just curious on the rules.

Thank you. That's indeed all I was... curious. HIGHLY unlikely I'd ever bother with a lick (heck, I don't even scout as much as I should), but I was curious as to what would constitute baiting. In no way suggested anyone on the thread was doing that. If the question makes some people uptight, upset, well that's their issue. Let's drop it. Cheers.

Rockymtnx · #28 08-11-2010, 03:32 PM

Pretty sad to see how a much of grown men can derail a thread on mineral licks and turn it into a thread on baiting deer.

There was actually some pretty useful information on minerals and vitamins.

Walleyes · #29 08-11-2010, 03:41 PM

Fellow I knew back home would just use the salt from a water softener.. He just dump about 1/2 a bag in a spot the rain would dissolve the salt and it would soak into the ground.. Every once and a while he would just take a couple scoops and throw it in.. It didn't take long and the deer had quite a depression worn in the ground and as time went on it only got better.. just have to freshen it up once and a while with fresh salt... Can't see it being bad for the deer its fit for human consumption.. And its not like they would eat clobs of it just what they licked off of the soil.. They sure seemed to like it.. After time it came to look just like a natural mineral lick..

H380 · #30 08-11-2010, 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rockymtnx

Pretty sad to see how a much of grown men can derail a thread on mineral licks and turn it into a thread on baiting deer.

There was actually some pretty useful information on minerals and vitamins.

Actually pretty sad a guy can't ask a simple question and then get raked over the coals about it..