Broad heads

[mindoutside]

Originally Posted by Coiloil37

Some broad heads can be reused and some show obvious damage. Then there are those so cheaply designed I wouldn’t reuse them regardless of what they looked like.

I’ve got German kinetics in this photo that have been through over a doz animals and VPA’s that have gone through maybe 4. I check them out and reuse them.




When ones damaged it never gets used again. Pretty straight forward.





Tuning is complicated but broad heads are simple. If the front of your arrows weigh the same, your broadheads spin true and your bow is TUNED they will ALL shoot to the same poi. I often have 5 different broadheads in my quiver so I can choose what to shoot depending on the shot and animal. They range from 100 to 150 grains and I use different weight inserts to keep my point weight at 200 grains. They all shoot to the same place as my fletched field tips, my bare shafts and my judos. You don’t “have” to tune to any specific broadheads, you just have to tune properly. The bigger fixed blade broadheads just make tuning or form errors more obvious.

Oh, cool. I see what you mean. I will keep that in mind closer to the season. I plan on practising at least 3times a week untill hunting seson

[Dubious]

Buy what ever catches your eye and fits your bill. I don’t think there’s a perfect broad head setup. I’ve used tooth of the arrow, ram cats, muzzys, rage and a few others (I know you guys, how do you tell if someone uses rage? don’t worry they’ll tell you) truth is they all worked. Why did I try so many? Because my friends all said brand “x” was the best.

Honestly the best thing you can do is worry less about what the broad head will do and worry more about what you do before the shot that’s how you knock more down.

[mindoutside]

Sure beats talking about covid though!

It really seems like like most of the experiences guys a good part of it will be learned from trial.

Will make sure the bow is tuned and arrows are tuned with the broad heads and hopefully get close enough to get dinner!

So far, shooting bows has been awesome and I am still getting used to using new muscles.

On another note, on a chrony, is 240 ft/sec good enough? I do notice a small drop from 10 to 20 yrds

[Lefty-Canuck]

Double post

[Lefty-Canuck]

Originally Posted by mindoutside

Sure beats talking about covid though!

It really seems like like most of the experiences guys a good part of it will be learned from trial.

Will make sure the bow is tuned and arrows are tuned with the broad heads and hopefully get close enough to get dinner!

So far, shooting bows has been awesome and I am still getting used to using new muscles.

On another note, on a chrony, is 240 ft/sec good enough? I do notice a small drop from 10 to 20 yrds

Weigh your arrow, 240fps is on the slower side. I would suggest without knowing the total arrow weight to use fixed heads. My first pin in my bow is always zeroed at 20 yrds, no point in having a 10 yrd pin.

LC

[mindoutside]

The arrows are 400 gr with the field point

What's the best yardage set up for the pins. I have a 4 pin sight. Every 10 yards after 20? Or is it better to have it every 5 yards?

Fixed broadheads will be my first choice. Probably a 3 blade style. Maybe more effective/penetrate better at a slower speed according to some other article I read.

[brendan's dad]

Originally Posted by mindoutside

The arrows are 400 gr with the field point

What's the best yardage set up for the pins. I have a 4 pin sight. Every 10 yards after 20? Or is it better to have it every 5 yards?

Fixed broadheads will be my first choice. Probably a 3 blade style. Maybe more effective/penetrate better at a slower speed according to some other article I read.

With a 4 pin sight I would do 20, 30, 40 and 50.

[brendan's dad]

Originally Posted by mindoutside

The arrows are 400 gr with the field point

What's the best yardage set up for the pins. I have a 4 pin sight. Every 10 yards after 20? Or is it better to have it every 5 yards?

Fixed broadheads will be my first choice. Probably a 3 blade style. Maybe more effective/penetrate better at a slower speed according to some other article I read.

With a 4 pin sight I would do 20, 30, 40 and 50.

[Lefty-Canuck]

Your momentum is 0.425 and your KE is around 51, based on that I would keep hunting shots under 40 yards maximum (hard maximum), and definitely use a fixed blade head.

LC

[mindoutside]

Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck

Your momentum is 0.425 and your KE is around 51, based on that I would keep hunting shots under 40 yards maximum (hard maximum), and definitely use a fixed blade head.

LC

Thanks for calculating that! I am going to buy some 3 blade COC style and some 3 blade trocar ones and see what works!

I have been looking around for arrow spinners and I see a lot DIY ones. Some use some sliding door rollers and one was just 2 sets of two nails set a 45 degree angles opposing eachother ( kind of like an x shape) Apparently works?

[mindoutside]

Originally Posted by brendan's dad

With a 4 pin sight I would do 20, 30, 40 and 50.

Makes sense, will do that, thanks!

[Lefty]

I shoot one piece 3 blade broadheads that are very easy to keep sharp. I always found that somehow the broadheads seemed to loose sharpness in the quiver, and out of the quiver coming into contact with hitting grass or other growth. What I have now for broadheads are very easily and quickly sharpened and get touched up regular giving me confidence I always have sharp broadheads.

[Coiloil37]

Originally Posted by mindoutside

Thanks for calculating that! I am going to buy some 3 blade COC style and some 3 blade trocar ones and see what works!

I have been looking around for arrow spinners and I see a lot DIY ones. Some use some sliding door rollers and one was just 2 sets of two nails set a 45 degree angles opposing eachother ( kind of like an x shape) Apparently works?

I built mine out of skateboard bearings. They’re cheap as chips at sportcheck.

400 grains is light and 240 FPS is slow. That’s not to imply it won’t work because it certainly will but you need to understand you’ve got more limitations then some. Back in the 90’s I shot 220 FPS but my arrows were 660 grains.
You need to shoot it to work your pins out but my guess is you’ll be something like 15/25/35/40. With a rig like that I would suggest something like a Magnus stinger, steelforce premium etc. If your after a three blade a vpa, snuffer ss, hellfire would fit the bill. I would suggest 125 grain heads over 100’s. I would also throw a plug in for Magnus. Their lifetime warranty is pretty nice. I always run a snuffer in my quiver for a few different reasons/shots but regardless it’s also my small game head. I don’t bother with a judo when I’m out hunting because the snuffer can do it. When one inevitably gets damaged I put it in some foam and when I’ve got enough to bother with I send them in for replacement. About a year ago I sent three+ dozen back and had them replaced no questions asked as per their warranty. I’ve found the 150’s tough as nails, the 125’s tougher then most of its competition and I’m not a fan of the 100’s. I bet there are newer, shinier broadheads on the market I’m not aware of which is why I commented on these few. I have a couple hundred stashed away so I don’t watch what’s being built now, I’ve got my lifetime supply.

[mindoutside]

Originally Posted by Lefty

I shoot one piece 3 blade broadheads that are very easy to keep sharp. I always found that somehow the broadheads seemed to loose sharpness in the quiver, and out of the quiver coming into contact with hitting grass or other growth. What I have now for broadheads are very easily and quickly sharpened and get touched up regular giving me confidence I always have sharp broadheads.

Oh wierd, I did not imagine they would fill in the quiver. Was wondering if a sharpener is worth it

[mindoutside]

Originally Posted by Coiloil37

I built mine out of skateboard bearings. They’re cheap as chips at sportcheck.

400 grains is light and 240 FPS is slow. That’s not to imply it won’t work because it certainly will but you need to understand you’ve got more limitations then some. Back in the 90’s I shot 220 FPS but my arrows were 660 grains.
You need to shoot it to work your pins out but my guess is you’ll be something like 15/25/35/40. With a rig like that I would suggest something like a Magnus stinger, steelforce premium etc. If your after a three blade a vpa, snuffer ss, hellfire would fit the bill. I would suggest 125 grain heads over 100’s. I would also throw a plug in for Magnus. Their lifetime warranty is pretty nice. I always run a snuffer in my quiver for a few different reasons/shots but regardless it’s also my small game head. I don’t bother with a judo when I’m out hunting because the snuffer can do it. When one inevitably gets damaged I put it in some foam and when I’ve got enough to bother with I send them in for replacement. About a year ago I sent three+ dozen back and had them replaced no questions asked as per their warranty. I’ve found the 150’s tough as nails, the 125’s tougher then most of its competition and I’m not a fan of the 100’s. I bet there are newer, shinier broadheads on the market I’m not aware of which is why I commented on these few. I have a couple hundred stashed away so I don’t watch what’s being built now, I’ve got my lifetime supply.

I see what you mean. But what kind of limitations do you mean? Lethal distance?

[Coiloil37]

Originally Posted by mindoutside

I see what you mean. But what kind of limitations do you mean? Lethal distance?

Yes distance as well as broadhead type, broadhead cut diameter, shot angles, ability to break bone, trajectory (which is relevant when trying to shoot through holes in foliage as well it leads to increased pin gap and less forgiveness of yardage errors), increased probability of an animal jumping the string.

There are probably a few that I haven’t thought of. Don’t misinterpret this, it’s not a big deal but your options are more limited then some. You need a sharp traditional “quality” broadhead with a reasonable cut diameter, a perfectly tuned bow to maximise penetration and you need to take smart, broadside or quartering away shots.