Scotty Downrigger Question

[EZM]

I just installed my new Scotty high Performance 2106 Electric Downrigger and tested it in the garage - works fine - except ...... the shuttle thingy where the braided line (and plastic stop beads) pass through right before the spool seems loose ..... is that normal?

I can't really test the auto stop feature because I can't get enough line/weight over the side of the boat as the floor of the garage is only like 5-6 feet to the downrigger ...... and I'd be pretty nervous to put the auto stop switch to that position and "test it" with a weight (because if it doesn't work it could cause damage to the rigger).

This thing retrieves at 300 ft per min and that is crazy fast. My reflexes are fast - I'm just not sure I want to test my reflexes on my brand new toy.

Is that shuttle thing supposed to be loose?

There were no instructions on the book to indicate tightening it down or adjusting it.

[Mackinaw]

Originally Posted by EZM

I just installed my new Scotty high Performance 2106 Electric Downrigger and tested it in the garage - works fine - except ...... the shuttle thingy where the braided line (and plastic stop beads) pass through right before the spool seems loose ..... is that normal?

I can't really test the auto stop feature because I can't get enough line/weight over the side of the boat as the floor of the garage is only like 5-6 feet to the downrigger ...... and I'd be pretty nervous to put the auto stop switch to that position and "test it" with a weight (because if it doesn't work it could cause damage to the rigger).

This thing retrieves at 300 ft per min and that is crazy fast. My reflexes are fast - I'm just not sure I want to test my reflexes on my brand new toy.

Is that shuttle thing supposed to be loose?

There were no instructions on the book to indicate tightening it down or adjusting it.

If you are talking about the auto stop block then yes at least the ones on both my electric riggers are always have been.

Mack

[RavYak]

Pull the ball out and rest it on the cement aways away to get you extra distance(doesn't need to hang vertical to test). If you bought new will have warranty and will be good if anything isn't working right lol.

I like the Scotty downriggers, couple buddies use them. The high performance ones are a bit faster but regular ones are great too.

[Salmon Slayer Lenny]

Yes it's normal to be a little loose.

To check the auto stop, you don't need to have any weight on it. If you're not vertical in water, I'd avoid any weight at all. You should only need maybe 12" of line out past the stopper anyway to test it.

If you pull a cannonball perpendicular over the floor, you run the risk of putting a hole in your boat. 😳

[EZM]

Thanks for the info. I will test it in the am with the break applied to slow the retrieve speed and using a light weight ( researched this on the internet).

And yes, definitely don't want to have a 15lb ball swinging around the side of my boat or twirling past my head ..... lol ...... that could knock out a chicklet or two I'm sure. That would suck.

[EZM]

On a side note .... I mounted one plate on the back deck (using a high rise pedestal) but wanted to mount another at the gunnel, using the low or flush mount swivel base (allowing me to run 3 downriggers). Turned out to be much more solid than I expected.

I mounted the base plate to the top of the wide gunnel ( 1/2 marine plywood with a relatively thick aluminum skin ) and was able to run heavy stainless bolts down and through and used a 3/4" polycarbonate backing plate 6"x12" from underneath with big stainless washer and nuts and it is rock solid.

[mikebossy]

if you can wait a week, give Willowtrail a buzz on here, he's away on holidays, he's a Scotty rep and should be able to help you out

[The Elkster]

There are auto stops made specifically for braid. Perhaps you have the ones for thicker wire. That'd explain the loose fit.

[-JR-]

Not sure why ,but yes that control switch is not very ridged on my unit.
Have not used mine either as I just bought mine also ...... and its fast !
Did not like that plug that needs to be wired also. Says to use size 12 or 10 wire.
Found out the wire hole will not clamp down on #12 wire.
Pulled right out when I gave it a pull. Went to size #10 and all is ok.
I just think scotty could have included some wire and inline 30 amp fuse .

[The Reel Deal]

The auto stop through switch is loose to compensate for the line as it builds on the spool. Seems to build thick on the bottom and relatively thin on the top of both my electrics.

[EZM]

Originally Posted by The Elkster

There are auto stops made specifically for braid. Perhaps you have the ones for thicker wire. That'd explain the loose fit.

It came from factory with the braid.

The reason I ask is because I would have thought the braid would have wound through a set of rollers with a switch or something - but it just goes straight through the shuttle thing and onto the spool through "open air" and doesn't thread through anything in there. The shuttle itself is loose (which sounds like that's normal).

Maybe there's a photo eye looking for the plastic red beads or something? I would have thought it would have been a mechanical switch.

I guess I just have no idea how it works ..... I will have to have a closer look at it myself.

[EZM]

Originally Posted by -JR-

Not sure why ,but yes that control switch is not very ridged on my unit.
Have not used mine either as I just bought mine also ...... and its fast !
Did not like that plug that needs to be wired also. Says to use size 12 or 10 wire.
Found out the wire hole will not clamp down on #12 wire.
Pulled right out when I gave it a pull. Went to size #10 and all is ok.
I just think scotty could have included some wire and inline 30 amp fuse .

I used 12 AWG wire as well (I only had to go literally 24" to the plug location) and it pulled out when I tested the connection for me too. I tried again after overlapping a couple of filaments on the wire to make a bit "thicker", put it in again and tightened the screw down all the way and it seemed better.

I didn't have 10 AWG around - and had already wired up the terminal rings, inline fuse, taped the harness up nice and neat, etc... so I would have been pretty unhappy if I had to re-do this in 10 AWG all over again but yeah - that exact same issue I ran into.

I also quickly figured out that you are not getting 2 pieces of wire through that rubber sealing boot without making a little surgical incision at the tip of the boot just so it could squeeze through. My boot and plug will stay under the rear seat in the battery compartment (where it's dry) anyways - so no big deal anyways.

I can run the downrigger plug along the gunnel and straight down into the compartment as there is a perfect little opening when the rear jump seat is up.

[Duramaximos]

Quick tip...I also find the scotty twist lock receptacle doesn't grab the wire very well. In the end I decided to tin the ends of the wire with some quality solder. Then took a small hammer and file to form the wire into a small flat block, just wide enough and long enough to bottom out past the set screw. This gave the screw something solid and flat to bite into.

[Salmon Slayer Lenny]

Originally Posted by EZM

It came from factory with the braid.

The reason I ask is because I would have thought the braid would have wound through a set of rollers with a switch or something - but it just goes straight through the shuttle thing and onto the spool through "open air" and doesn't thread through anything in there. The shuttle itself is loose (which sounds like that's normal).

Maybe there's a photo eye looking for the plastic red beads or something? I would have thought it would have been a mechanical switch.

I guess I just have no idea how it works ..... I will have to have a closer look at it myself.

Okay, I see the issue you're having now.

What the stopper beads to is they mechanically impact the stopper to turn the rigger off. Think of it as the stopper (beads) flips a switch.

Make sure you are using the black stopper beads, specifically for braided line. I've had issues with beads popping off and not actually triggering the stopper. To fix this, I use the Rigger Stop - High Performance snubber/gangion combo from Rite Angle Fishing producs. They run about $18. May need to order online though Wholesale was supposed to be carrying them. http://www.riteanglefishing.com/about1-c14sl. The barrel swivel and the tuna cord will act as the stopper and you'll never have that issue.

With the HP, I'd highly suggest using a snubber, it will save your balls.

As a Side, I believe there is play allowed in the shuttle to prevent potential damage to a static mounted shuttle.

[EZM]

Originally Posted by Salmon Slayer Lenny

Okay, I see the issue you're having now.

What the stopper beads to is they mechanically impact the stopper to turn the rigger off. Think of it as the stopper (beads) flips a switch.

Make sure you are using the black stopper beads, specifically for braided line. I've had issues with beads popping off and not actually triggering the stopper. To fix this, I use the Rigger Stop - High Performance snubber/gangion combo from Rite Angle Fishing producs. They run about $18. May need to order online though Wholesale was supposed to be carrying them. http://www.riteanglefishing.com/about1-c14sl. The barrel swivel and the tuna cord will act as the stopper and you'll never have that issue.

With the HP, I'd highly suggest using a snubber, it will save your balls.

As a Side, I believe there is play allowed in the shuttle to prevent potential damage to a static mounted shuttle.

Strange ......the thing came with red beads already attached to the braided line right from the factory ..... you would think if they required a different bead (the black ones) and needed something else to stop the ball from crashing into the downrigger itself it would have came with it????

It also had 2 extra red beads (no black ones).

That would be definitely a major oversight from the manufacturer if that was the case.

Who knows ........ stranger stuff has happened.

I'm going to go out there and have a closer look and test the unit this afternoon.

[EZM]

Here's some pictures - seems to be no mechanical switch to stop the beads whatsoever - just the beads passing through the shuttle in open air on their way into the spool.

[Salmon Slayer Lenny]

Originally Posted by EZM

Strange ......the thing came with red beads already attached to the braided line right from the factory ..... you would think if they required a different bead (the black ones) and needed something else to stop the ball from crashing into the downrigger itself it would have came with it????

It also had 2 extra red beads (no black ones).

That would be definitely a major oversight from the manufacturer if that was the case.

Who knows ........ stranger stuff has happened.

I'm going to go out there and have a closer look and test the unit this afternoon.

Just looked at the Scotty website. They are saying the 2008 auto stop beads are only in red. It used to be all red ones were for the wire cable.

I'd say your're good.

[Salmon Slayer Lenny]

Originally Posted by EZM

Here's some pictures - seems to be no mechanical switch to stop the beads whatsoever - just the beads passing through the shuttle in open air on their way into the spool.

You'd eventually figure it out, but I'll save you the effort. You aren't seeing it because the auto stop has already engaged. Essentially, the rigger is turned off.

If you turn the downrigger switch to 'on' (rotate the round switch clockwise, but do it while the power is unplugged) you will see the 'shuttle' area will narrow by about half. That is your stopper. If you pull the line and stopper up and through, it will hit the stopper and turn it off.


BTW, I have boat envy of your Lund! A buddy of mine had that model out on the Island.

[The Reel Deal]

you're using the correct beads, and you only need 1.

replacement scotty beads specifically list whether they're for cable or braid. Make sure to keep spares in your boat.

I like to set my stopper where my ball is still submerged so she isnt swinging into the hull when im fighting a fish

[EZM]

Originally Posted by The Reel Deal

you're using the correct beads, and you only need 1.

replacement scotty beads specifically list whether they're for cable or braid. Make sure to keep spares in your boat.

I like to set my stopper where my ball is still submerged so she isnt swinging into the hull when im fighting a fish

Me too - I ussually run it just below the surface as well ( for the same reason ). The double bead came from factory like that - along with 2 spares in a little baggy I will likely loose.

Probably should get a spare rubber bumper, swivel snap, spare fuses, as well.

[CBintheNorth]

Originally Posted by EZM

Me too - I ussually run it just below the surface as well ( for the same reason ). The double bead came from factory like that - along with 2 spares in a little baggy I will likely loose.

Probably should get a spare rubber bumper, swivel snap, spare fuses, as well.

I would honestly do away with the secondary bead and go with a steel swivel tied at the 'critical' point (usually 3" to the snap). If I remember right I used a #4 (possibly #5?) swivel.
Another thing I've learned the hard way is that even the red beads slide. Do yourself a favor and give it a full wrap around the slots that are on either side of centre.
Hopefully I'm explaining myself well.
I'll try and post up a pic later and save you the discovery of exactly how strong that winch really is...

[Fishhunter]

The reason it seems to be going through thin air is that the auto stop is a magnet. when the bead passes trough, it triggers the switch off and the magnet shuts down the motor.

[Salmon Slayer Lenny]

Originally Posted by Fishhunter

The reason it seems to be going through thin air is that the auto stop is a magnet. when the bead passes trough, it triggers the switch off and the magnet shuts down the motor.

The beads are plastic.

[CBintheNorth]

Originally Posted by Fishhunter

The reason it seems to be going through thin air is that the auto stop is a magnet. when the bead passes trough, it triggers the switch off and the magnet shuts down the motor.

Huh?
It's a mechanical switch. If you unplug power and turn the switch to auto you will see the arm engage. The passing bead pushes the gate (switch) open, and power is interrupted. That's why anything of the right size will trip the switch.

[The Fisherman Guy]

Mine are also a little loose, X2 on the spares.

[EZM]

I took the advice of a few of you and looked down the shuttle and turned the knob to the auto stop position.

I have a picture of the shuttle in the "normal" position and the shuttle in the "auto stop" position.

It is, indeed, a mechanical device, a roller on a spring, that engages to shut down the retrieval motor.

Thanks Again.



BTW - the beads are not metallic or magnetic.