Go Back   Alberta Outdoorsmen Forum > Main Category > Fishing Discussion

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 09-11-2016, 01:45 PM
trouty trouty is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 743
Default Extending length of minnkota power cable?

Cable is too short and want to move my battery forward on my 12' tinner. Think I need 6ga Marine wire, not sure where to get that?

Would butt connectors be ok, or need to solder?

Also thought about two eyes with a bolt through might be ok and shrink wrapped.

Thanks.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 09-11-2016, 03:29 PM
The Reel Deal's Avatar
The Reel Deal The Reel Deal is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Calgary
Posts: 537
Default

A new length of wire without splices is my recommendation.

But if you must, solder with shrink tube is second best.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 09-11-2016, 03:30 PM
Mudslide's Avatar
Mudslide Mudslide is offline
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 736
Default

Personally I would use marine grade, tinned wire (you can get it at Greggs) along with the right size crimps and heat shrink tubing. Do it right and you won't have any problems.

Crimping vs Soldering Marine Cable and Wire Connectors
http://www.marinewireandcable.com/20...cable-and.html
So this is one of the most debated topics in the marine wire world where there are some valid arguments on both sides but I will present some fact and opinions on why I prefer to use crimped connections only.
When it comes to ABYC here's what they have to say on the matter:

11.14.5.7 Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit. If soldered, the connection shall be so located or supported as to minimize flexing of the conductor where the solder changes the flexible conductor into a solid conductor.

EXCEPTION: Battery lugs with a solder contact length of not less than 1.5 times the diameter of theconductor.

So it appears that ABYC will allow for an "only solder" connection

An important factor to consider is the requirement of stranded cable for use on boats. The same stranded wire requirement is present in many motive (moving) applications where machinery or vehicles sustain vibration which will cause a solid wire to fatigue much faster and induce breakage. The stranded wiring allows vibration to be absorbed over the length of the wire where a solid conductor will focus the vibration at the point of least mobility which by default is the connector since it is secured and immobile.
The importance is the call for a mechanical means of securing the wire to the connector which is accomplished via crimping. With the proper crimping tool using the correct crimping force you'll have a connection that well exceeds any recommended pull out requirements and still allows the stranded wire to do it's job of absorbing the vibrations.

Soldering has with it some inherent drawbacks which are non-disputable. I'm not looking at a benefits comparison but strictly a drawback comparison.

Wicking - Drawback #1
With soldering the melted solder will flow into and between the strands traveling in both directions from the point of soldering. This effect is known as "wicking" and the solder is "wicked" up into the strands of the wire much as a traditional wick will soak up a liquid. The issue arises that the solder creates a solid mass from the stranded wires just outside the connector and creates a new focal point for vibration which can cause the solder to crack inside or crate fatigue on the individual strands facilitating their premature breakage.

No Mechanical Bond - Drawback #2

If a connection is solely soldered there'd be no mechanical connection, nothing to physically hold the connection in place other than the solder itself functioning as a metal "glue" which was not solder's intent. Under a short circuit condition sufficient heat could be focused at the solder connection to cause the solder to re-flow and the wire and connector could separate. This will not occur in a mechanically crimped connection which relies on the connector and wire which have substantially higher melting points than the solder.

Solder then Crimp will Crush the Solder - Drawback #3

There are those that will attempt to solder and then crimp for "doouble protection" but this is a bad idea on multiple fronts. The first being that the crimp may not form properly with the added mass from the solder in the connector being crimped. The crimp force could crack the solder causing a high electrical resistance point.

Crimp then Solder also Functionally Unnecessary - Drawback #4

There are others who will crimp the wire then remove some of the insulation from just beyond the connector and attempt to backfill with solder to "seal out" moisture and air from entering the stranding there. The issue is that the solder will not flow past the crimp so you'd in essence be putting a mass of solder into the stranded wire just outside the connection which again creates a solid mass as the focal point of vibration and would cause premature strand breakage or other fatigue related problems.
Yet others will drill a hole into the closed end of the connector and fill the small air void with solder. Well, the connection was already closed and sealed to start with and drilling a hole and then filling it with solder accomplishes no more than was already there before this is attempted.

Increased Resistance - Drawback #5

Lead is not as good a conductor as copper. The resistance of copper is 13 times less than lead so why introduce it into the circuit if not necessary? The crimp will be a copper connector and a copper wire and the crimp pressure with seal out air and moisture creating a low resistance connection

In all fairness let's take a look at possible drawbacks to a crimped connection:

Crimp Not Done Properly - Only Drawback

Simple. If you don't crimp properly using low quality tools or the wrong size connector and wire combination then you might have a problem. I fully believe this is where any popularity arose for solder since at a glance it would be easier to use solder as a glue to hold a connection and know it there over the "risk" of making a poor crimp connection such as those who "just hit it with a hammer". That's not really apples to apples, use good tools and follow manufacturer recommendations and you won't have a problem.

When a crimp is properly formed it will last indefinitely. Add to the crimp a piece of adhesive lined heat shrink tubing to cover and seal the joint where the wire meets the connector and you have a totally sealed connection.

So in review, just looking at the potential disadvantages I have yet to hear an argument that would move soldering ahead of crimping...heck, I haven't heard an argument than even makes them equal choices. Crimping is the way to go.


Posted by Unknown at 11/13/2013 11:14:00 AM
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 09-11-2016, 04:04 PM
The Reel Deal's Avatar
The Reel Deal The Reel Deal is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Calgary
Posts: 537
Default

ah the crimp vs solder debate!

Just remember any unnecessary splice in a circuit should be avoided altogether - no one can argue with that!
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 09-11-2016, 07:26 PM
waynep waynep is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: lethbridge
Posts: 129
Default

I ran into the same situation a few years ago.
I took my motor to a local battery shop and purchased a pair of heavy duty booster cables from them and the were kind enough to splice the wires together and heat shrink the connection as well as but proper ends to attach it to my battery box.
Wayne
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 09-11-2016, 10:10 PM
Mudslide's Avatar
Mudslide Mudslide is offline
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 736
Default

"Rules for Extending Wiring
Trolling Motor Wire Extension Guide
Following proper wiring rules will ensure that you do not experience power loss between the batteries and the trolling motor. When extending the wiring on your trolling motor, it's very important to consider what gauge wire to use. We strongly suggest viewing this detailed chart for specifics pertaining to your actual motor and wiring scenario. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/10...61864783132632
Please note: You can always splice a very short run of 6 or 8 gauge wire to your longer and lower gauge wire if you need to complete the connection to a new or existing plug and receptacle. We always recommend using marine grade products and we also recommend using a butt splice with heat shrinking to join separate pieces of wire." https://www.trollingmotors.net/blogs...tending-wiring

This is what professionals recommend. Use Marine grade tinned wire and butt splice crimps with heat shrink. You are not installing a dishwasher. And remember to install a properly sized circuit breaker as close to the battery as possible the battery
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:30 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.