Bow tuning....

[winger7mm]

Im wondering if anyone has a good suggestion to a book or website that delves into tuning. AO is great for info but im looking for something I can lay out and read with pics and what not.

I changed over to my broad heads today and shooting 30 was great but once I stepped up to 40 I could really notice my arrow flight. I can still kill at 40 no problem, but theres not much for consistancy of POI. I cant tell if my arrow is specifically going up and down or left and right during flight. I can tell for sure my arrow doesnt fly overly smooth lol. I didnt have issues shooting feild tips. I believe I have a rest issue.

I dunno if its my broad heads maybe or what. I would like to shoot the ones iv got, but there was a guy at the range shooting magnus stingers, flew just like his field points...... Maybe I should shoot them?? I dunno lol. Im a new bow hunter and havnt shot different broads. There are way to many ifs and choices and what not. I dunno for sure but I definatly feel I should be shooting better.

I also had to adjust my sight quite a bit from field point to broad head. At 20 I was about 6" left and 4" low with my broad, when my FP was dead on.....

[Millse]

Bot too sure on the tuning aspect, but I used to shoot montecs but they never flew right for me, tried a bunch out but ended up using slick tricks. I havent had to resight for broadheads since

[Mike_W]

If things aren't consistent I would venture to guess you have a form/grip issue or inconsistency.

[winger7mm]

Originally Posted by Mike_W

If things aren't consistent I would venture to guess you have a form/grip issue or inconsistency.

Even if shooting field tips to 60 yards is consistant??? The only thing iv changed was going to broad heads from field points....

[Mike_W]

Originally Posted by winger7mm

Even if shooting field tips to 60 yards is consistant??? The only thing iv changed was going to broad heads from field points....

Yeah you should still be able to get consistency with broadheads even if they don't hit where your field points do.

The thing is fletching corrects arrow flight and it does so quite easy when shooting field points, but think of broadhead blades as fletching on the front of your arrow, therefore whenever there are any shooting flaws it is exaggerated when shooting broadheads.

If you have constancy issues with broadheads there is a slight chance of it being the broadhead itself but provided the arrow length and shafts are the same your consistency would more than likely be in your shooting.

[brendan's dad]

[QUOTE=winger7mm;2528332]Im wondering if anyone has a good suggestion to a book or website that delves into tuning. AO is great for info but im looking for something I can lay out and read with pics and what not.

I changed over to my broad heads today and shooting 30 was great but once I stepped up to 40 I could really notice my arrow flight. I can still kill at 40 no problem, but theres not much for consistancy of POI. I cant tell if my arrow is specifically going up and down or left and right during flight. I can tell for sure my arrow doesnt fly overly smooth lol. I didnt have issues shooting feild tips. I believe I have a rest issue.

I dunno if its my broad heads maybe or what. I would like to shoot the ones iv got, but there was a guy at the range shooting magnus stingers, flew just like his field points...... Maybe I should shoot them?? I dunno lol. Im a new bow hunter and havnt shot different broads. There are way to many ifs and choices and what not. I dunno for sure but I definatly feel I should be shooting better.

I also had to adjust my sight quite a bit from field point to broad head. At 20 I was about 6" left and 4" low with my broad, when my FP was dead on.....[/QUOTE]

If I understand correctly you just re-sighted your bow for broadheads. If so, then you did not "broadhead tune"

Once your field points are flying true by paper tuning and walk back tuning, then shoot your BH's to see if they hit with FP's. If they are off like in your case, then you need to adjust your rest (vertical and horizontal) to try and bring your FP and BH together. Fix the up/down first; so if you are 4" low then raise the rest a 1/32 and try again. The reason this works is that the adjustment has a greater effect on the BH so eventually they should come together. Once your horizontal is good, move onto the left/right adjustment. 6" left, then moved your rest right 1/32 and see where you are.

Good luck

[winger7mm]

[QUOTE=brendan's dad;2528378]

Originally Posted by winger7mm

Im wondering if anyone has a good suggestion to a book or website that delves into tuning. AO is great for info but im looking for something I can lay out and read with pics and what not.

I changed over to my broad heads today and shooting 30 was great but once I stepped up to 40 I could really notice my arrow flight. I can still kill at 40 no problem, but theres not much for consistancy of POI. I cant tell if my arrow is specifically going up and down or left and right during flight. I can tell for sure my arrow doesnt fly overly smooth lol. I didnt have issues shooting feild tips. I believe I have a rest issue.

I dunno if its my broad heads maybe or what. I would like to shoot the ones iv got, but there was a guy at the range shooting magnus stingers, flew just like his field points...... Maybe I should shoot them?? I dunno lol. Im a new bow hunter and havnt shot different broads. There are way to many ifs and choices and what not. I dunno for sure but I definatly feel I should be shooting better.

I also had to adjust my sight quite a bit from field point to broad head. At 20 I was about 6" left and 4" low with my broad, when my FP was dead on.....[/QUOTE]

If I understand correctly you just re-sighted your bow for broadheads. If so, then you did not "broadhead tune"

Once your field points are flying true by paper tuning and walk back tuning, then shoot your BH's to see if they hit with FP's. If they are off like in your case, then you need to adjust your rest (vertical and horizontal) to try and bring your FP and BH together. Fix the up/down first; so if you are 4" low then raise the rest a 1/32 and try again. The reason this works is that the adjustment has a greater effect on the BH so eventually they should come together. Once your horizontal is good, move onto the left/right adjustment. 6" left, then moved your rest right 1/32 and see where you are.

Good luck

So if I understand you right. If I sight my field points back in to where I had em. I should move my rest to get my broads to shoot better?? This is why I wanted literature and pics and such lol.

[Settle&release]

If you can send a pm to L.O.S.T. He has one of the best bow shops in ab. He also gives advice freely. Another place to check is the archery talk forum and ask nuts and bolts. I set my mamba m7 up with his advice. Same poi at 70 yards broadheads and field points. Cheers! I hope it was somewhat helpfull!

[Alberta Bigbore]

I have tried many broadheads this year. Each one has its own flight characteristic. Ive been told many times on and off forum.... that from a properly tuned bow... you should be able to get FP and BH to hit in the same spot. I have a friend that takes BH tuning and bow tuning in general very seriously and you can wrap your thumb and finger around a group of his broadheads and field points at 60 yards. Also been told by many... that broadhead companies claim " flies like a fieldpoint" but not... "flies with your fieldpoints."

Now.. i found for me.. montec 100gr screw on and shoot WITH my field points ... baffles me... even out to 80.. crazy.

yet 5 others group very consistant... but way off the FP mark.

Ive noticed things that change POI. Foot placement.. pulling tight on the wall or just holding it in front. Wrist position. Relaxed hand on release or gripped pressure on release aid. Just with broad heads its all magnified...lol


Mike w's arrows are same spine as mine but an inch and a quarter shorter.... .and cut my arrow groups in half. Im either cutting mine or trying an arrow with a stiffer spine. Also was told from the charts.. my set up is borderline for 340 spine...... then a month or so later... was tol one should always go on the upside of border line and go stiffer

After i get my bow back up and running from its incident.... im going to be giving bareshaft tuning a whirl with a felow with alot of experience in it. When peolpe tell me to just adjust my sights for broadheads and call it a season.. i refuse to follow that. To me that is me not getting perfect arrow flight.. but im not an expert...so thats none of my business.

[winger7mm]

ABB What do you mean by "the" charts... Maybe I should be shooting a stiffer arrow??? Im shooting 300's with a 70lb draw weight.

The biggest thing is its my first season and I havnt tried out much of anything.... I practiced up nice and good shooting FP. But going to BH and shooting beyond 30 the consistancy drops by like 4"..... Still good enough to kill but not near where I want it to be... As it shoots now 30 will be the farthest.....

[Mike_W]

Sorry I missed that part and thought you had broadhead tuned your bow.
Broadhead tune first and see where you get first.
Good luck!!

[winger7mm]

Originally Posted by Mike_W

Sorry I missed that part and thought you had broadhead tuned your bow.
Broadhead tune first and see where you get first.
Good luck!!

Haha all good man thats where my literature thing comes into play haha.

[npauls]

Originally Posted by winger7mm

Even if shooting field tips to 60 yards is consistant??? The only thing iv changed was going to broad heads from field points....

How consistent is consistent to you at 60 yards?

I was shooting out to 64 yards at the big yellow spray foam block on the 3-d side and was grouping 7 arrows together in about a 4-5" square and I don't feel that is anywhere consistent enough. I am still messing with form, grip, and my rest to make sure everything is spot on and that I can tighten up those groups even more.

I am broadhead tuning this week so hopefully things go well and everything is shooting good by the end of the week.

Good luck with your tuning. The season is only 7 days away

[winger7mm]

Originally Posted by npauls

How consistent is consistent to you at 60 yards?

I was shooting out to 64 yards at the big yellow spray foam block on the 3-d side and was grouping 7 arrows together in about a 4-5" square and I don't feel that is anywhere consistent enough. I am still messing with form, grip, and my rest to make sure everything is spot on and that I can tighten up those groups even more.

About the same results you are having. As far as form goes, upper body doesnt change, below the waist is another story lol. Grip iv got a solid backing (thumb area) then the rest of my finger tips just rest lightly on the front of the bow. I havnt touched my rest.

You know those SABA permission slips?? FP I could hit them every shot. 40yrd BH solid hit once and only touched paper a second time. Not good enough......

[Millse]

What arrow lengths are you running? Seems like 400's may help you out

[spurly]

Lots of good info on a web site called hunters friend. As well

[Riverbc]

paper tune...then read this. http://www.outdoorsmenforum.ca/showthread.php?t=222095

[Mike_W]

Originally Posted by Millse

What arrow lengths are you running? Seems like 400's may help you out

Maybe 340's but 400's are too light of spine for a 70lb draw

[winger7mm]

Ok so I just finished reading some stuff off of the outdoor life page, the Wasp Archery page and one other one. I have come to the conclusion I have a Tuning issue!! Not one with my sight but with my rest...... Back to square 1 I guess.

I took pics of my setup before I changed my sight around. I will put it back to where it was shooting my FP and make sure they are on. From what I read fixed blades are not very forgiving (which is why mechanicals are popular). With a properly tuned bow I should be getting my fixed to shoot just like my FP.

The one article I read had me confused though. It was saying the lower the number the stiffer the spine IE a 200 is stiffer then a 400??? Im pretty sure its the other way around, no??

[Millse]

You think so? Im running 400's on 70lbs and pulling very good grouping at 50 yrds

[Alberta Bigbore]

400 has less spine than a 340!



Always log the things you id to your bow from square one. everything. even results with different broafbeads. ive been very frustrated at times.. but am having a lot of fun with it learning how everything works.

[winger7mm]

Originally Posted by Alberta Bigbore

400 has less spine than a 340!



Always log the things you id to your bow from square one. everything. even results with different broafbeads. ive been very frustrated at times.. but am having a lot of fun with it learning how everything works.

K so Less spine is a softer arrow?? Like not as stiff??

[Riverbc]

the numbers of the spine 300, 340, 400, 500 are referring to the how much the arrow bends when weight is applied to the center of the arrow. This deflection is measured in inches. .300", .340", .400", 500"
Here it is in technical terms.

"SPINE DEFLECTION MEASUREMENT
Sometimes an arrow's spine stiffness is expressed as a more technical measurement, called a spine deflection. According to the modern standards (ASTM F2031-05) an arrow's official spine deflection is measured by hanging a 1.94 lb. weight in the center of a 28" suspended section of the arrow shaft (not to be confused with the old AMO standard of 2 lb. and 26"). The actual distance the 1.94 lb. weight causes the shaft to sag down is the arrow's actual spine deflection. For example, if a 1.94 lb. weight causes the center of a 28" arrow to sag down 1/2 inch (.500"). Then the arrow's spine deflection would be .500". Stiffer arrows will, of course, sag less. More limber arrows will sag more. So the stiffer the arrow is, the LOWER its spine deflection measurement will be. The more limber an arrow is, the HIGHER its spine deflection measurement will be."

[Riverbc]

Originally Posted by Millse

You think so? Im running 400's on 70lbs and pulling very good grouping at 50 yrds

how long is your arrow and draw length. What does your point weigh?

[Riverbc]

when I started flinging arrows a few years ago, I found this a very good and informative read. http://www.huntersfriend.com/carbon_..._chapter_1.htm

[Millse]

100 grain slick tricks, 27 1/2 draw length

[Riverbc]

Originally Posted by Millse

100 grain slick tricks, 27 1/2 draw length

what is your arrow cut down to?

[Millse]

Oh haha 27 1/4"

[Riverbc]

Because you cut your arrows down, the spine is stiffer....but you are right on the edge of using .340 or .400. Actually leaning more to a .340. If it's shooting well for you, that's great. Don't change. If you have trouble with fixed broadheads not shooting with your field points.....that spine may be too soft. JMO

[TangoKilo]

This might get you headed in the right direction.


http://www.eastonarchery.com/uploads...ning_Guide.pdf