Basement rough in help

[speedfreak]

Hoping some plumbing masters( maybe caber?) can help me out. I’m getting ready to start basement finishing and am not sure about my rough in. I’ve done other plumbing but never anything from scratch before. Would I be correct to assume that my set up is vented through the sink vent for the shower and toilet as well? Any way that I can confirm? The shower box has a 2” pipe running into it. It’s not in a great spot so I’ll be breaking a bit of concrete and moving it to the right a couple feet. I could add a vent then if needed but I assume the builder would have vented it all??




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[Robins36]

It will all be tied in under the concrete. Your sink drain and vent will vent the tub or shower and the toilet.

[Dewey Cox]

It's vented.

[speedfreak]

Thanks guys. When moving the drain out is it better to cut the concrete first or just smash it out?


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[Dewey Cox]

If you're just going a couple feet, you'll have it smashed out before you could get back from the saw rental place.

[SageValleyOutdoors]

For moving a couple feed, it’s Always easier to hammer it up with a sledge or jackhammer as opposed to bringing in a cutter.

[MyAlberta]

if you have a hammer drill and bits, drill a series of holes to outline the knockout.

[speedfreak]

Thanks again! I’ve got a drill so a few holes might help it bust off a little easier. Should be fun!


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[Drewski Canuck]

You can get a dry concrete blade for a skilsaw in 7 inch. Even if you only score the first inch, when you go to break out the concrete in between the scored portion of concrete, you will usually get a smooth edge on the surface which is always alot nicer to deal with when you re pour the trough you have cut.

Remember googles, dust masks, and hearing protection if you decided to dry saw the slab or dry score the slab.

A Demolition hammer from any rental place will work out well and is alot easier than swinging a sledge hammer, by the way.

Drewski

[Dewey Cox]

Put on "John Henry" for inspiration.

[CaberTosser]

Previous answers were right, it's vented & should be already inspected even by the looks of it.

For breaking, once the initial hole is started, I'd often tunnel under where I want to break and use a short, large hammer to break above where I've removed its support; concrete breaks easier with nothing underneath it. Tools like a Stanley Wonderbar can be good implements for scooping out under a slab.

[Stinky Buffalo]

Originally Posted by Dewey Cox

Put on "John Henry" for inspiration.

Or John Wick?

[speedfreak]

John Wick all the way!
Unfortunately I found out today that I need an hvac permit even if I'm not adjusting the existing so back to the drawing board for a bit to figure out what I need for that permit. The want heat loss calcs and Google seems to be all over the map with how to do them. At least now I should be able to add another cold air return and a couple heat runs.

[speedfreak]

It’s me again! 3 shower bases later and concrete is finally busted. It was harder than I thought but I’m a wuss. Didn’t take very long with a hammer at all. I’ve run into a new issue though. The main. Stack drain is between me and my drain location. I’ll sink the trap down as far as I can to clear the white pipe but am I allowed to have that much drop to the black? I’ll roll some 45s up to make up the different but the white pipe I need to clear is about 1.5”” above the black. It means I’ll have way more than the 1/4 per foot but I don’t see how else to run it?


I’m assuming that the 1/4 is for flat runs? The 45 fittings to get to and over don’t count? Do I need anything between the pipes where they will touch?

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[Dewey Cox]

Put the trap down low where the orange cap is, and run the pipe on the fixture side of the trap up and over the white pipe.
If you put the trap up that high, it won't be vented properly any more.

[speedfreak]

Originally Posted by Dewey Cox

Put the trap down low where the orange cap is, and run the pipe on the fixture side of the trap up and over the white pipe.
If you put the trap up that high, it won't be vented properly any more.

To make the turn from horizontal where is goes over the white pipe to vertical shower connect am I allowed to use a 90? Does it need to be a sweep or will a short 90 work? I was going off the no 90 rule and using the trap to make that transition


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[speedfreak]

Here’s a better picture of the trap lower and the difference. I get what you’re saying it’s quite a bit higher.

Something kinda like that, I just had some pvc laying around.



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[speedfreak]

Okay more trying things and took into account the height of the trap as you mentioned. I assume this is allowed? Not sure how far from
The trap the arm is allowed or if it would smell at all not being direct. Trap directly off the drain line. 2 45s up and over the stupid white pipe and then a long sweep 90 up and into the bottom of the shower drain. To me this makes sense but what do I know lol!



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[speedfreak]

Okay two more mock ups and another issue…
If I put the trap right beside the drain line the sweep elbow sitting in the pipe looks to be too tall for the shower drain to sit correctly. Moving it to the other side causes venting issues Dewey mentioned. I set the trap at the height it would be at and it’s roughly the same height as the drain out line. Not sure if that’s better or worse or matters.


Option 2

The elbow is sitting a little high. In reality it’s about 1” below the floor surface


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[Big Grey Wolf]

Why are you switching from ABS (black) to PVC ( white). Plumbing is always done with ABS?

[Rusty50]

Reverse the fittings, 90 degree to just clear pipe, 2- 45's to come vertical to strainer. You could also use fitting 45's if you need the clearance to the bottom of your shower strainer.

[ram crazy]

Why not make the trap go under the 4” line?

[speedfreak]

Originally Posted by Big Grey Wolf

Why are you switching from ABS (black) to PVC ( white). Plumbing is always done with ABS?

I’m not! The plumbers that built my house did. No idea why they decided to make the transition

Edit. Never mind I see what you are saying. That’s just what I had laying around for a mock up. They did actually switch to pvc under ground for some reason though.

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[speedfreak]

Originally Posted by Rusty50

Reverse the fittings, 90 degree to just clear pipe, 2- 45's to come vertical to strainer. You could also use fitting 45's if you need the clearance to the bottom of your shower strainer.

I ended up using 45s. Technically it’s considered a running trap but hopefully it still passes inspection. Not sure what else to do if it doesn’t other than a tile floor layout.


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[speedfreak]

Originally Posted by ram crazy

Why not make the trap go under the 4” line?

Going under would be perfect other than it drops the trap outlet lower than the drain pipe.


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[Rusty50]

Yes this is a running trap, perfectly legal.

[speedfreak]

Originally Posted by Rusty50

Yes this is a running trap, perfectly legal.

When I called and talked to the help desk discussing my options he mentioned that technically a running trap requires a clean out directly above the upstream side of the trap as per code…obviously that’s under the shower and a little tough to do!


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[koothunter]

Originally Posted by speedfreak

When I called and talked to the help desk discussing my options he mentioned that technically a running trap requires a clean out directly above the upstream side of the trap as per code…obviously that’s under the shower and a little tough to do!


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I'm no plumber, but I believe your shower drain should count as a cleanout.

[Rusty50]

As your groundwork piping was already inspected!! Frame the bathroom. Install your shower and the rest of the basement development Rough in, (waterlines, shower valve, sink drain rough in etc. etc. then call for your inspection.