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Old 07-09-2014, 03:02 PM
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Default Broadhead tune in more detail...

Gary as promised....This is a little more detailed in sequence than my diagram




slide #1 is group with broadhead and field point slide #2 with both shot and step taken...and so one...easy to understand once you get how its explained...

I have pics on my broadhead and tune set up but didnt have time to put in all the graphics so thanks to Doc on archery talk for these pics...

Pic #1- 3 shot group with FP [Field Points] and 3 shot group of BH [Broadheads] and step taken...



Pic #2 and Step #2...and so on
















Neil
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Old 07-09-2014, 03:42 PM
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Thanks Neil...cool stuff!
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Old 07-30-2014, 08:04 AM
Tlmromaniuk Tlmromaniuk is offline
 
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I have seen that just could not find it
Thank you
I'll give her a try and see how all goes
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Old 07-30-2014, 10:31 AM
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Did a final tune using this method and was putting broadheads [G5 Striker 125gr] in a three inch circle at 50 yards last night...flying as true as any mecanical could hope...lol

Neil
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Old 08-15-2014, 04:31 AM
Ghillie_frog Ghillie_frog is offline
 
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Why do you move the rest instead of the sight to Broadhead tune your bow? Will moving your rest to Broadhead tune effect your paper tune work you did first?
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Old 08-15-2014, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghillie_frog View Post
Why do you move the rest instead of the sight to Broadhead tune your bow? Will moving your rest to Broadhead tune effect your paper tune work you did first?
You can move your move your sight all you want in direction...but that isnt going to bring your BH and FP group together...it just moves a bad group.

One can move the BH to the X ...but the FP will still be off

Paper tuning the bow with FP adjusts nock point up and down...and adjusts windage left and right for factors such as arrow spine..

Moving rest finds that sweet spot for Both the FP and BH after that...so they will group together...that you move that group via the sight both to the X

It may effect paper tune of FP after that... but that is the sweet spot where both FP and BH are flying the best...

For hunting one doesnt care if FP is slightly off on paper tune as long as BH is flying at its optinum and both are grouping together...

look at it as paper tuning the BH ..without paper... which is near impossible due to BH cuts...cant read a tear with cuts

Neil
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Old 08-17-2014, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L.O.S.T.Arrow View Post
Did a final tune using this method and was putting broadheads [G5 Striker 125gr] in a three inch circle at 50 yards last night...flying as true as any mecanical could hope...lol

Neil
I'd like to put field points in a 3" circle at 50 yards....I've found in the last seven years, (after I turned 40) as my eyesight dropped off, my groups opened up a little each year. I shoot now with my prescription sunglasses, and that helped a good bit. I'm hitting pie plates at 50 at 100% accuracy, but at 60 yards, maybe 70%....Oh well, I'll just have to keep my shots within my comfort zone. It is not an equipment issue, it's for sure me, so that keeps me from tinkering.
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Old 08-17-2014, 02:12 PM
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I have a whisker biscuit rest but it has no way to raise it? Or am I missing something completely.
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Old 08-17-2014, 03:51 PM
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Then you will need to change the height of your nock (d-loop). If your rest needed to go up then your d-loop will need to go down... and vice versa.
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Old 08-17-2014, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by brendan's dad View Post
Then you will need to change the height of your nock (d-loop). If your rest needed to go up then your d-loop will need to go down... and vice versa.

I understand that, but I thought you needed to change both as it would change the level of the arrow? (Forgot what it is called but how you square your arrow less a degree when it is nocked)
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Old 08-17-2014, 06:35 PM
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No need to move both. With a biscuit with no up and down adjustment if you square it to the riser or even slightly tilt it you should still be slicing your Berger hole properly. So if your broad heads are hitting high then you need to raise your nock point. Some bows tune nock high, some at 90 degrees and I even had a shift that tuned nock below 90. I always refrain to advise someone they need better equipment but in this case for a biscuit with both horizontal and vertical adjustment you are looking at about 40 bucks. Might be money well spent.
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Old 08-17-2014, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brendan's dad View Post
No need to move both. With a biscuit with no up and down adjustment if you square it to the riser or even slightly tilt it you should still be slicing your Berger hole properly. So if your broad heads are hitting high then you need to raise your nock point. Some bows tune nock high, some at 90 degrees and I even had a shift that tuned nock below 90. I always refrain to advise someone they need better equipment but in this case for a biscuit with both horizontal and vertical adjustment you are looking at about 40 bucks. Might be money well spent.
Don't refrain, input and advice from another hunter is always appreciated. When I got my whisker it was 5 years ago so I didn't know they had them with both vertical and horizontal adjustment! Will look into it thank you very much.
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Old 08-18-2014, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassett View Post
I have a whisker biscuit rest but it has no way to raise it? Or am I missing something completely.
:d Ya there is four models with complete vertical windage and horizontal adjustment...in a second...

No need for the most expensive ...just extra weight and messing around IMHO...I use the Power Shot because it is ballistic polymer which makes it so light and strong...there are other models as the Dead Shot that cost less ...but are exactally the same rest only Aircraft Aluninum...

The cheapest model without the adjustment is hard to work with properly!

We set up the Ugly Cookie [WB] so top leans slightly toward string..1/16 max...makes a quiter drawing and shooting rest...arrow in rest is center on berger/rest bolt hole...at eye level...


center arrow 13/16 from bow riser...

Than using a bow square from bottom of arrow in rest 1/4-5/16 above square or 90 degrees of that bottom of arrow on string...

Works optinum for 99% of shooters

Paper tune or walk back for bow brand, arrow and other variance's

Neil
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Old 06-02-2015, 09:41 AM
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Bump as Per Discussion...

Neil
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Old 06-02-2015, 10:48 AM
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can a mod make these tuning tip threads stickys? thank you
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  #16  
Old 08-11-2016, 11:09 AM
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Hi


Just wondering what distance you shoot at when initially tuning in for broad heads??


Thanks
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Old 10-12-2018, 11:22 AM
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Nice
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Old 09-02-2019, 10:21 AM
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Hi all, the only thing I am not seeing explained here is what distances to tune to? Longest expected distance or repeat through multiple distances? Great information, thanks!

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Old 09-02-2019, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sogseal View Post
Hi all, the only thing I am not seeing explained here is what distances to tune to? Longest expected distance or repeat through multiple distances? Great information, thanks!

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
I would say start at 20yds and once you are close shoot again at 40 and 60 to confirm the flight paths are the same at distance too.
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Old 09-02-2019, 01:02 PM
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Cool thanks

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Old 09-02-2019, 02:01 PM
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I tune EACH arrow that enters my quiver to at least 60yrds.

LC
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Old 09-03-2019, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck View Post
I tune EACH arrow that enters my quiver to at least 60yrds.



LC
Once it is tuned out to 60, can i expect lesser distances to fly true then?

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Old 09-03-2019, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Sogseal View Post
Once it is tuned out to 60, can i expect lesser distances to fly true then?

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
Generally yes if your 1/2/3 axis is set correctly. I test a 20/40/60 minimum.

LC
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Old 10-20-2019, 08:51 AM
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Default Could someone re-do the pictures?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck View Post
Generally yes if your 1/2/3 axis is set correctly. I test a 20/40/60 minimum.

LC
I found this process very helpful but can’t recall how to do it without the photos.
Thanks.
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