Tire Rim question

[Tommy]

Hello people, wondering if anyone here on AO can help me with a few questions I have on wheel rims for my truck. I have a 2011 Ford SD 4X4, tires size is 265/70/17 which is stock for this truck, mounted on factory steel rims.
I purchased new winter tires, same size, and aftermarket rims for them. I made sure that the rims I got are “hub centric “cause didn’t want to fool around with centre rings etc.
I dry fitted the rims on the truck before mounting the tires and all seemed well, no rubbing on the inside, clears the brake callipers and the bolt pattern is same as factory rims ( 8 bolts.)
Only issue I have is the stud holes in the after marked rims are larger than the stock holes, not by much mind you but definitely larger. I say that factory holes leave about 1/16” play all around the stud, whereas the aftermarket ones it’s more like 1/8 “all around.
Now I know it doesn’t seem like a lot, but the wheel lug nuts I have are “flat seated type “The question I have is because the hole is larger would it be better to get the tapered type of lug nuts? Even though rims are not “lug centric “.

Thanks
Tommy

[tirebob]

Originally Posted by Tommy

Hello people, wondering if anyone here on AO can help me with a few questions I have on wheel rims for my truck. I have a 2011 Ford SD 4X4, tires size is 265/70/17 which is stock for this truck, mounted on factory steel rims.
I purchased new winter tires, same size, and aftermarket rims for them. I made sure that the rims I got are “hub centric “cause didn’t want to fool around with centre rings etc.
I dry fitted the rims on the truck before mounting the tires and all seemed well, no rubbing on the inside, clears the brake callipers and the bolt pattern is same as factory rims ( 8 bolts.)
Only issue I have is the stud holes in the after marked rims are larger than the stock holes, not by much mind you but definitely larger. I say that factory holes leave about 1/16” play all around the stud, whereas the aftermarket ones it’s more like 1/8 “all around.
Now I know it doesn’t seem like a lot, but the wheel lug nuts I have are “flat seated type “The question I have is because the hole is larger would it be better to get the tapered type of lug nuts? Even though rims are not “lug centric “.

Thanks
Tommy

I think I am visualizing what you are trying to say but I can't say for certain without the wheels in front of me...

So if your truck uses a flat seat lug nut with a kind of attached washer but not a protruding shank, the nut does not centre the rim. The rim is centred by the hub and the lug nut in basic terms simply supplies the compression to hold the wheel on the truck. That is a bit different than a taper seat lug nut which also helps centre the wheel.

You basically have to use the nut that is designed for the rim going onto your truck. If the rim that is going to be used on the tuck is a flat seat, you have to use a flat seat nut. If the rim is a taper seat (usually 60 degree taper) then you have to use a taper seat nut. If you try and use the wrong seat with the wrong rim it will be dangerous for sure.

The actual diameter of the wheel's lug hole versus the diameter of the wheel stud itself can vary from rim to rim a bit for sure, but that is not the issue as much as having the correct seating. If a rim is hub-centric for the vehicle it is being used on, the rim will centre on the hub and the lug essentially just holds the wheel against the hub but the mating seats between the rims and the lug nut will determine whether it stays properly torqued onto the vehicle. Generally a wheel that uses a flat nut without the mag shank will have tighter wheel hole to stud diameter tolerances, but a wheel that uses a taper seat nut can have a larger lug hole in the wheel as the nut itself will pull the wheel centre more-so.

I would need to see the actual items in question to assess whether you are set up properly or not.

[FishOutOfWater]

Pictures are worth a 1000 words...

Can you show us your issue ?

[Tommy]

Ok I understand, after reading your reply I double checked the new rims with mikes and vernier caliper vs my old OEM rims. The wheel stud holes measures .695 “vs OEM of .614 “, could be close enough to be the variance you mention in rim manufacturer maybe? There is no taper seat or bevel on the holes.
The lug nuts I have are the flat seated type with the floating washer attached, as you described. They are the ones that were on my summer OEM rims which are “hub centric “stock steel rims for F350 SWD. When I ordered the winter rims, I specified hub centric to avoid centring rings and thinking I could use my same lug nuts, but when I noticed the larger bolt holes, I question myself if I should use the tapered lug nuts.
I also checked the rims centre hub bore hole and it is the same size as the OEM rims, and fits on wheel hubs with no play or gap.
It was just the larger bolt holes that got me second guessing the lug nuts. I think I am good to go with the stock flat seat lug nuts on the new rims.
Thanks very much for your help
Tommy
PS
FishOutOfWater
My computer skills are not up to sending pic’s yet, but I am getting there.

[thing]

Just get different lug nuts.

[Tommy]

No need to get different lug nuts. Read above post. It's all good now.

Tommy