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Old 01-11-2012, 01:20 PM
Dan Foss Dan Foss is offline
 
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Default Any one else brew they're own beers

A new hobby for me and a buddy. We are going to start off simple and a couple really simple kits and then we are going to start experimenting with extracts and stuff. We are going to start a amber ale and maybe an IPA this weekend and then once we pitch the yeast and rack to a carboy, I am going to try to do an extract stout or something (this one will be one that I want to let sit and condition for like 6 months, the other two we probably wont wait longer than 2 to try it out)

Anyone else out there who makes homebrew?
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Old 01-11-2012, 01:25 PM
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Okotokian Okotokian is offline
 
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Have in the past. Been a few years now. Pick up Papazian's Joy of Home Brewing.
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Old 01-11-2012, 01:29 PM
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used too. Beer ages nicely at 6 weeks and starts to decline at a few months so you have to drink it up...that's not an issue but the wieght gain was. So I decided not to keep making it. Still make wine though as it ages very well and you can limit your consumption.

Homebrew can be extremely tastey and the ingredients are considered a grocery making them tax free! but there is a side effect you should know about: you are going to be farting so bad you'll want a bathroom fan in the bedroom! Enjoy!
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Old 01-11-2012, 01:39 PM
trevoroni trevoroni is offline
 
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I looked into it in the past but never got around to doing it.
This site has a lot of info on the subject howtobrew.com
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Old 01-11-2012, 01:48 PM
Gust Gust is offline
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Used to make pear cider -or at least that's what we called it- more of a personal fountain if you weren't careful. Thank heavens for sump pumps and ceilings coated with oil based paint (would never have got the damage deposit back if not). Getting a bottle from the fridge to the couch was like moving plutonium with chopsticks.

Mead was the creeper drunk that provided the hangover of all hangover's plus a hefty dose of hangover.
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Old 01-11-2012, 01:49 PM
grunger grunger is offline
 
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I use the Brew House kits. They are an all grain concentrate that you just add water and yeast to like making wine. Their IPA is fantastic as is the pilsner.
So much simpler than dealing with boiling and measuring.
The kits cost around $40 and you get 42-43 pints.
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Old 01-11-2012, 02:12 PM
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Reeves1 Reeves1 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Okotokian View Post
Have in the past. Been a few years now. Pick up Papazian's Joy of Home Brewing.
A big x2 !

Tons of really good info you will need....


Quote:
used too. Beer ages nicely at 6 weeks and starts to decline at a few months so you have to drink it up...that's not an issue but the wieght gain was. So I decided not to keep making it. Still make wine though as it ages very well and you can limit your consumption.

Homebrew can be extremely tastey and the ingredients are considered a grocery making them tax free! but there is a side effect you should know about: you are going to be farting so bad you'll want a bathroom fan in the bedroom!

You may have had some kind of bacteria problem with your gear.
Properly made beer should have a shelf life of at least 2 years.
And should not cause a flatulence issue.
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Old 01-11-2012, 02:14 PM
Dan Foss Dan Foss is offline
 
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Ya with our math 1 batch does about 66 cans. We are going to start out with the kits but we want to get into extracts. More of a pain but you get to tailor beers to your taste. I had a friend in texas who did an IPA at 9.5% but it was done so well it didnt even taste like alcohol..... you noticed it halfway through your second pint though.

I have heard the opposite about ageing beer. I guess it depends on the recipes and storage of them. the fuller body beers they say are better left to sit cool (not chilled) in virtually no light. and the longer you condition them the be better they get. Im sure it depends on the recipe and type of yeast used. I am getting pretty excited to get started on our next batches.
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Old 01-11-2012, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reeves1 View Post
A big x2 !
You may have had some kind of bacteria problem with your gear.
Properly made beer should have a shelf life of at least 2 years.
And should not cause a flatulence issue.
not a bacteria issue, I would say yeast...overactive yeast maybe..I used cheap kits with cheap corn sugar (dextrose)...my equipment is very clean but now that I think about it, maybe I added a little extra sugar. Anyway, the beer tasted fantastic so no harm done.
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Old 01-11-2012, 02:42 PM
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Did you add the sugar (BTW dextrose is what you want to use) to the wort, or into the boil ? If not in the boil, that would be where the bacteria may have entered.

It's common to use dex to cut down on the amount of malt used. Or to bump sg up for a bigger "kick".
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  #11  
Old 01-11-2012, 02:45 PM
Piker Piker is offline
 
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I used to make it but was quite a bit of work all the washing, sterilizing of fermenters, carboys and bottles. With the cheap beer now I stopped. But I still Have some that is 6 yrs old and is still good. I had like 25 dozen at one time. Piker
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Old 01-11-2012, 02:47 PM
Dan Foss Dan Foss is offline
 
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Reeves, you seem to be fairly experienced on this matter...... When you did yours, did you always rack out into a secondary (carboy) or did you ever experiment with pitching the yeast and leaving it in the primary then going straight to bottles. Ive been reading alot of different forums and the general consensus seems to be most prefer to leave it in the primary.

I am assuming this is because when you rack it out into a primary, you are removing the beer from the original sediment. Where as if you leave it in the primary, the sediment sticks around and comes more flavourful. If you do this you obviously have to be careful not to stir up the sediment when testing / before racking into bottles.
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Old 01-11-2012, 03:09 PM
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Main reason for racking is that after 3-5 days ( depends on what all was used) is the fermentation slows & will allow oxygen and all kinds of bacteria(s) to come into contact with the wort.
Racking into a carboy (with water lock) prevents this.

Water in the lock must be distilled water. Use just enough to make a seal. Sometimes when racking it will become "active" again for a day or so. You do not want the water in the lock being "siphoned" back into the carboy.
In a day or two, top the water up.

Best to use glass carboys. Plastic no good.
You may want to rack to a second carboy after a few weeks. Top with distilled water.
Let sit till clear, before bottling.

You want Nectar Of The Gods....try Mead !
Home made (if done right) is better than any you can buy !

Like Oko said, get this book: Pick up Papazian's Joy of Home Brewing
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Old 01-11-2012, 03:22 PM
Dan Foss Dan Foss is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reeves1 View Post
Main reason for racking is that after 3-5 days ( depends on what all was used) is the fermentation slows & will allow oxygen and all kinds of bacteria(s) to come into contact with the wort.
Racking into a carboy (with water lock) prevents this.

Water in the lock must be distilled water. Use just enough to make a seal. Sometimes when racking it will become "active" again for a day or so. You do not want the water in the lock being "siphoned" back into the carboy.
In a day or two, top the water up.

Best to use glass carboys. Plastic no good.
You may want to rack to a second carboy after a few weeks. Top with distilled water.
Let sit till clear, before bottling.

You want Nectar Of The Gods....try Mead !
Home made (if done right) is better than any you can buy !

Like Oko said, get this book: Pick up Papazian's Joy of Home Brewing
Ya all that stuff I know but like i said through all the reading I have done, It seems like most guys are preferring to leaving it in the primary. I would be concerned about bacterial etc. as a primary cannot be properly sealed.

Wasn't even considering anything but glass carboys. lol.
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Old 01-11-2012, 03:27 PM
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Just trying to help....
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Old 01-11-2012, 03:44 PM
RumRugby RumRugby is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grunger View Post
I use the Brew House kits.
x2

I really enjoyed the red ale, honey blonde, oktober fest and winter fest, they were always really good. I ended up filtering out the sediment at the end and carbonating it with a kegging set up, something to the effect of:

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/keggi...mes-empty.html

Except I have another attachment as well as the tap to directly put it into the bottle. I find the 1/2 liter ez cap glass bottles are the best, not the clear ones though, it can effect the taste of the beer if not stored in a dark place.
Also, at the beginning 1 cup sugar added (if I remember correctly) adds 1/2% alcohol, 1 cup of honey adds 2% but honey changes the taste a little. Might have to hound dog around to verify the percentages. Ended up getting whiskey with foam
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Old 01-11-2012, 04:10 PM
silver silver is offline
 
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I have been making my own for about 20 years now. Used to make it in the plastic pail, then into the glass carboy, then into the bottles or keg. I used to have the odd batch go bad, so I eliminated the plastic pail. Now I brew in the glass carboy, add water to half full, add sugar, add malt, add yeast and let ferment. When the fermentation settles down, add water and when it settles down again, top it up with water. I am drinking a batch that was started in July and it tastes just fine.
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Old 01-11-2012, 04:30 PM
Dan Foss Dan Foss is offline
 
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I just did a bit more reading and finally got an answer for the primary question. The reason people have just been using primarys and not racking out to carboys is because apparently there is no point to it. Dont open the primary untill your ready to take a reading and they claim you wont have a bacteria problem. I think just out of good practice ill stick to using a carboy secondary just so I can watch it and ensure its health with the water seal...... A little extra work but it also frees up a primary to start brewing another batch.
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Old 01-11-2012, 05:33 PM
Jag_Gator Jag_Gator is offline
 
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It's been a few years, but I started out just like you. I used box Brew House kits from one of the local wine shops here in Regina, then moved on to extract kits, and finally went on to all grain.

I used to get a lot of my grains and extracts from Paddock Wood in Saskatoon before they shut down and began focusing on their own custom brews. It has been hard trying to find a supplier since they shut down.

When I did brew, I used a plastic pail for primary for about a week, then racked to a glass carboy for another week, and then after that glass bottles--never got an infection either. If I can find a supplier I would like to get into it again and start kegging. Good luck man it's fun.
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Old 01-11-2012, 05:53 PM
greylynx greylynx is offline
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From the fermentation pail of a few days to the primary carboy aging for about a week. From the primary carboy to the secondary carboy with another week of aging. Then a transfer of beer to the bottling pail.
Each stage removes yeast sediment.

Use corn sugar. It is pure glucose. dextrose is a combination of glucose and fructose. The fructose gives your beer a fruity taste.
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  #21  
Old 01-11-2012, 06:42 PM
particle particle is offline
 
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Finally, a hunting forum question I can contribute to. Been brewing all-grain for about 5 years now. Still working on my American Pale Ale as my skill test standard, but have tried everything from oatmeal stouts to cherry belgian ales. The flavours are great, or at least always drinkable, and you have the flexibilty to make any style you want.
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Old 01-11-2012, 06:56 PM
particle particle is offline
 
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I am a big fan of John Palmer's book 'How to Brew'. It is my go-to book for everything brew related.

http://www.howtobrew.com/
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Old 01-11-2012, 07:11 PM
BeeGuy BeeGuy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greylynx View Post
dextrose is a combination of glucose and fructose.
this is factually incorrect

dextrose is d-glucose.

the d defines the hydroxyl orientation. no fructose included
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Old 01-11-2012, 07:17 PM
BeeGuy BeeGuy is offline
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A friend and I brewed beer for our twelfth grade science fair project.

The topic was alcoholic fermentation. great memories. we scored the top mark in the class but the principal veto'd us going to regionals.

these days I much more interested in distillation.

either way I dont drink enough to spend much time on it anymore. still got a whole brew set and some glass.
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Old 01-11-2012, 09:29 PM
Dan Foss Dan Foss is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jag_Gator View Post
It's been a few years, but I started out just like you. I used box Brew House kits from one of the local wine shops here in Regina, then moved on to extract kits, and finally went on to all grain.

I used to get a lot of my grains and extracts from Paddock Wood in Saskatoon before they shut down and began focusing on their own custom brews. It has been hard trying to find a supplier since they shut down.

When I did brew, I used a plastic pail for primary for about a week, then racked to a glass carboy for another week, and then after that glass bottles--never got an infection either. If I can find a supplier I would like to get into it again and start kegging. Good luck man it's fun.
I know there are a couple suppliers here in calgary that you could probably contact and get a shipment sent to you in SK.
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Old 01-11-2012, 09:30 PM
lyallpeder lyallpeder is offline
 
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No but I do make hard cider from unwanted apples from people near by. Amazing how time keeps changing its flavor.
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  #27  
Old 01-11-2012, 10:01 PM
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Used to brew but just got lazy and finally sold off all my kit.
One thing I was taught and it turn out correct, time after time was keep everything spotless.

Clean, sterilize, clean and sterilize and then do it again. It will keep off flavours out of your brew.

Good luck and good brewing!
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Old 01-11-2012, 11:54 PM
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Selkirk Selkirk is offline
 
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Thumbs up If you do it right, 'home-brew' is the way to go!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Foss View Post

. . . Anyone else out there who makes homebrew?

You betcha ... including myself

Lots o' previous threads here about this subject. Read lots, do your homework, and keep it clean-clean-clean!

'Good Brewing' to ya!


TF
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Old 01-12-2012, 05:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeGuy View Post
this is factually incorrect

dextrose is d-glucose.

the d defines the hydroxyl orientation. no fructose included
I don't know the big words, but the dex I used for brewing was pure corn sugar. Yeast likes it best.

If trying to make a high octane brew, you will have to go to a champagne yeast, as it tolerates alcohol better than a beer yeast. Max you will get will be 19-20%. At which point the alcohol kills the yeast.
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Old 01-12-2012, 07:08 AM
Jag_Gator Jag_Gator is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Foss View Post
I know there are a couple suppliers here in calgary that you could probably contact and get a shipment sent to you in SK.
Really? I'll have to look into that. Thanks!
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