Question for woodworkers. Oil or sealer.

[Savage Bacon]

Howdy folks. The boss didn't think I was busy enough, so she asked me to make her a hope chest. Pictured bellow is what I came up with.

I want to seal it from stains and such, but she doesn't want it to get much darker than it is now.

Should I use a clear sealer? I have satin finish oil based sealer already from a previous project.

Or should I use an oil, with no sealer? Linseed oil, Danish oil?

When I made my boys bed frame, I think the staining process took longer than the build. 3 coats of stain, then 3 coats of sealer, sanding between coats. I dont mind putting in the time. But this isn't a million dollar chest.

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[Geraldsh]

You want it to be maintenance free for years so I would recommend the satin finish sealer.

[let it fly]

Depends on what you want it to look like, oil will make it more yellow a bit more than a water based, but the grain will pop out more with oil. I’d use a tung or danish, if I was using oil.Minimal work when it’s time to recoat with oil, vs a poly or water based finish.

[calgarychef]

If you’re oiling I’d use a wood sealer first so the end grains don’t go too dark, then top coat with oil based varathane. I’d skip the oil though and just use the varathane, it’s fast and easy, wears well and is easy to recoat in a few years.

[Savage Bacon]

Originally Posted by calgarychef

If you’re oiling I’d use a wood sealer first so the end grains don’t go too dark, then top coat with oil based varathane. I’d skip the oil though and just use the varathane, it’s fast and easy, wears well and is easy to recoat in a few years.

Varathane satin finish clear is what I have on hand.

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[jungleboy]

Take a few sample pieces of same wood you used and some sample finishes. That’s the only way you will know for sure what the end result will be.

[Savage Bacon]

Originally Posted by jungleboy

Take a few sample pieces of same wood you used and some sample finishes. That’s the only way you will know for sure what the end result will be.

She'd be happy with any finish that stays as light as possible. I was wondering if just using an oil would be a good quality finish, or if I should do the extra steps and use the varathane clear instead.

I'd just leave it, myself. But I know at some point, my kid will spill some juice on it, or my dog will barf on it.

Bellow is the bed frame I made for my boy. The staining process wasn't bad. But 3 coats of clear, sanding between coats, took a long time. Just doing one side at a time. Boy that was a long process.

Maybe I should spray the clear instead of brushing it.

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[Twisted Canuck]

Originally Posted by calgarychef

If you’re oiling I’d use a wood sealer first so the end grains don’t go too dark, then top coat with oil based varathane. I’d skip the oil though and just use the varathane, it’s fast and easy, wears well and is easy to recoat in a few years.

Agree, on a softwood like that wood conditioner is a must. This is what I use. Then the satin varathane.

[jungleboy]

I think the varathane will definitely give a more durable finish than just oil

[Savage Bacon]

Originally Posted by Twisted Canuck

Agree, on a softwood like that wood conditioner is a must. This is what I use. Then the satin varathane.

Would you use that if you are applying the clear varathane only, without staining? This is the stuff I used on my boy's bed frame before I applied the stain. And then that clear, is what I have.

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[Twisted Canuck]

Yes, that will work, and yes, use it first. You have exactly what you need.

[Savage Bacon]

Originally Posted by Twisted Canuck

Yes, that will work, and yes, use it first. You have exactly what you need.

That's what I'll do then. We're heading to Home Depot today to grab a few things, so I'll grab another quart of the clear and some brushes.

Thanks guys for the suggestions.

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[ghfalls]

My go to is nano defense floor finish. You can use it anywhere. It rolls really nice with a foam roller. Doesn’t leave bubbles. It’s pretty spendy, but not having to re sand and re finish your whole project is pretty valuable as well.

[jednastka]

I've been woodworking for over 50 years, and selling the occasional piece. Here's what I would do.


Sand to 120 grit;
sand end grain to 180 grit;
carefully seal only the end grain with wood conditioner;
final finish is several coats of water-based clear varathane, your choice gloss, semi-gloss or satin,with 180 grit sanding between coats. The number of coats is up to you.


The choice is water-based clear varathane is intentional, w.r.t. your requirements. For whatever reason, water-based clear varathane does not darken with age, at all! Oil-based clear varathane will darken no matter what.


Vic

[Grizzly Adams1]

Originally Posted by jednastka

I've been woodworking for over 50 years, and selling the occasional piece. Here's what I would do.


Sand to 120 grit;
sand end grain to 180 grit;
carefully seal only the end grain with wood conditioner;
final finish is several coats of water-based clear varathane, your choice gloss, semi-gloss or satin,with 180 grit sanding between coats. The number of coats is up to you.


The choice is water-based clear varathane is intentional, w.r.t. your requirements. For whatever reason, water-based clear varathane does not darken with age, at all! Oil-based clear varathane will darken no matter what.


Vic

I've been building rustic furniture for my cabin, water based Varathane is the way to go, dries quickly and easy clean up as well. I like that satin finish, doesn't get in your face.

[FCLightning]

Originally Posted by jednastka

I've been woodworking for over 50 years, and selling the occasional piece. Here's what I would do.


Sand to 120 grit;
sand end grain to 180 grit;
carefully seal only the end grain with wood conditioner;
final finish is several coats of water-based clear varathane, your choice gloss, semi-gloss or satin,with 180 grit sanding between coats. The number of coats is up to you.


The choice is water-based clear varathane is intentional, w.r.t. your requirements. For whatever reason, water-based clear varathane does not darken with age, at all! Oil-based clear varathane will darken no matter what.


Vic

Ditto that - the other advantage to the water base stuff is the tack free drying time is much quicker which helps greatly to keep dust out of the finish when not having a proper paint booth.

[big zeke]

I built something similar a few years back, I took a torch to it for a burned finish instead of a stain and then 3 coats of satin varathane. The finish is super tough and the look is rustic.

Cedar lining is a nice touch as well as slow close hinges

[Desert Eagle]

I build some end tables in the spring and was looking for the same thing. We used a product that was recommended by Windsor plywood. Osmo’s I believe it was called. It added a lot of depth to the finish, but colour stayed very light.

If you need more info PM me and I can dig up the info.

[Savage Bacon]

Originally Posted by big zeke

I built something similar a few years back, I took a torch to it for a burned finish instead of a stain and then 3 coats of satin varathane. The finish is super tough and the look is rustic.



Cedar lining is a nice touch as well as slow close hinges

That's a neat look.

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[Savage Bacon]

Originally Posted by Desert Eagle

I build some end tables in the spring and was looking for the same thing. We used a product that was recommended by Windsor plywood. Osmo’s I believe it was called. It added a lot of depth to the finish, but colour stayed very light.



If you need more info PM me and I can dig up the info.

It looks like their stuff holds up on hardwood floors. It must be pretty durable.

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[Savage Bacon]

Originally Posted by jednastka

I've been woodworking for over 50 years, and selling the occasional piece. Here's what I would do.


Sand to 120 grit;
sand end grain to 180 grit;
carefully seal only the end grain with wood conditioner;
final finish is several coats of water-based clear varathane, your choice gloss, semi-gloss or satin,with 180 grit sanding between coats. The number of coats is up to you.


The choice is water-based clear varathane is intentional, w.r.t. your requirements. For whatever reason, water-based clear varathane does not darken with age, at all! Oil-based clear varathane will darken no matter what.


Vic

I already had the pre conditioner and oil based varathane clear. So that's what I'll use this time. Now that this project is almost done, the boss wants me to build a long skinny shelf that goes behind the couch. When it comes time to seal that project, I might look into some water based stuff.

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[Okotok]

I agree with water based Varathane. It can have a very slight "blueish" cast at first that goes away IME. I still spray lots of nitro lacquer. This one is getting ready for that soon. Gets a little amber as it ages but I like that.

[Hunter65]

https://canadianwoodworking.com/tech...ood-finishing/

[Savage Bacon]

Originally Posted by Okotok

I agree with water based Varathane. It can have a very slight "blueish" cast at first that goes away IME. I still spray lots of nitro lacquer. This one is getting ready for that soon. Gets a little amber as it ages but I like that.

Dang that is way above my level.

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