WALKBACK TUNING...Pre Broadhead Tune!

[L.O.S.T.Arrow]

Walkback Tuning

I have been asked what exactly is Walkback tuning...Well its another Bow/arrow tuning method used Pre-Broadhead tune...this would be done after paper training or tune

Walkback tuning is the process of shooting arrows at a single point on your target using one fixed sight pin from a range of distances. The reason that we walkback tune is to ensure that we have our bow’s centershot set properly, and that we are getting clean, consistent arrow flight....

Your arrows might be tearing through paper well at 3-5 yards, and appear to be flying straight at 20 yards, but what does horizontal impact look like from 40 yards and beyond? Are your arrows still flying straight at those distances?
Walkback tuning will give you the answer.





How to Walkback Tune Your Bow

Walkback tuning is best performed with a larger target. Try to use one that is at least 20″ tall, and preferably just as wide.

Make a line down the center of your target, from top to bottom, ensuring that is is running straight and plumb. I use blue masking tape for this.

Create an aiming point at the top of your target by adding a horizontal line, which forms an intersection point to aim it.

Sight-in your bow at 20 yards, being sure to fine-tune the horizontal adjustment so that you are hitting perfectly and consistently inline.

Don’t touch your bow sight. If you are using a slider-style sight, leave it in a fixed position. If you are using a multiple-pin sight, don’t worry about sighting-in or using anything but your top pin.

Shoot, walk back, repeat. Start at 20 yards and shoot an arrow into the intersection point at the top of your target. Step back to 30 yards, and using the same pin and aiming point, shoot another arrow. Step back to 35 and repeat. Continue shooting an arrow from increased distances until the arrows begin to hit at the bottom of your target, or until you feel like you have reached your max effective shooting distance.





Analyze and Adjust.

Analyze the arrows in your target. Do they consistently move further left or right as you shoot from further distances? Ideally, your arrows will line up in a perfect vertical line ( | ). If your arrows fall to the right ( \ ), then you need to “bring the arrows back” by adjusting your rest to the left. If your arrows fall to the left ( / ), then you need to move your rest to the right. Make very small rest adjustments – a 1/32″ or 1/16″ at a time.

Sight and Shoot.

Return to 20 yards and shoot again, adjusting your sight to compensate for the changes that you made to your rest’s centershot. Once you have your sight perfectly dialed-in, continue to repeat the process until you get the perfect vertical lineup of arrows when walking back and shooting from multiple distances.

*NOTE*

This Method will Assume that your sight is true level with bow and that you do not "cant" bow...

As results will vary if you "cant" bow without sight level or sight level is not true to bow..


Neil

[Arrowhead]

Agreed.

In my opinion, this is the best way to tune your bow for centershot. Forget about paper tuning unless it is only to determine your nocking point (up or down corrections only). For centershot tuning (left or right rest adjustments), walk back tuning is the only way to go.

[Ghillie_frog]

So would you suggest the following for the best pre season tune:
1) paper tune bow (for up/down nocking point adjustment)
2) walk back tune for rest adjustment (left/right)
3) broadhead tune

[nekred]

I do the following....

paper tune
walk back tune just as Neil outlined
Then I bare shaft tune.... or broadhead tune for hunting arrows...

For indoor target where I only shot 20 yards (18m) I skip the walkback

For bare shaft on arrows taht willnot have a broadhead (target or 3D arrows with glue in points) I shoot a bare shaft and fletched arrow and ensure my bare shaft arrows and fletched arrows are in same group at 20yards....

With hunting arrows with broadheads I skip bare shaft tune.

I spin broadhead tipped arrows on arrow spinner and verify that there is no wobble and that the tip spins true by bringing a piece of white cardstock (business card) to get ink tipped arrow (black felt) to scribe pattern on cardstock while spinning.... single point = good vs. circle = bad.... Sometimes i get a circle traced where there is no perceptable wobble but I know there is an alignment issue.That arrow then gets field tip glued in and will never be used for broadhead (out of a dozen I usually get 9 broadhead tipped arrows which leaves 3 for hunting camp practice)

[L.O.S.T.Arrow]

Originally Posted by nekred

I do the following....

paper tune
walk back tune just as Neil outlined
Then I bare shaft tune.... or broadhead tune for hunting arrows...

For indoor target where I only shot 20 yards (18m) I skip the walkback

For bare shaft on arrows taht willnot have a broadhead (target or 3D arrows with glue in points) I shoot a bare shaft and fletched arrow and ensure my bare shaft arrows and fletched arrows are in same group at 20yards....

With hunting arrows with broadheads I skip bare shaft tune.

I spin broadhead tipped arrows on arrow spinner and verify that there is no wobble and that the tip spins true by bringing a piece of white cardstock (business card) to get ink tipped arrow (black felt) to scribe pattern on cardstock while spinning.... single point = good vs. circle = bad.... Sometimes i get a circle traced where there is no perceptable wobble but I know there is an alignment issue.That arrow then gets field tip glued in and will never be used for broadhead (out of a dozen I usually get 9 broadhead tipped arrows which leaves 3 for hunting camp practice)

I am Purty much identical... On the last part with broadhead spinning...I use an ASD...Arrow Squaring Device on nock end before fletching ...then on cut shaft...then with red felt pen mark bottom of arrow insert and cut off red for 100% square arrow...makes huge differance come broahead arrow spin...

And just because I am anal about the broadheads...I use ASD to perfectaly index/line them up with vanes...not necessary...but personal preferance...some border line tuned bows may shoot broadhead arrows straighter with indexed heads...

Neil

[nekred]

I also use an ASD on arrow and insert....

I used to index and now I dont bother.... tested them both ways....indexed and not indexed or even 180 degress out from index to see if there was a difference....

No difference that I saw just prefer them indexed....

In past I used to use special rings that would deflect arrow back down the shaft and assist with flight but found they were not necessary either....

Best 9 become hunting arrows other three become practice arrows...

Did hell freeze over? looks like we actually agreed on something...

[L.O.S.T.Arrow]

LOL...well its been purty cool lately...lol

[Ghillie_frog]

So for broadhead tuning the spin test with the felt marker is the only test you need to do.
Should you repeat any of the previous steps to make sure your broadhead is flying straight?
What about alignment of blades with fletchings?

[L.O.S.T.Arrow]

Originally Posted by Ghillie_frog

So for broadhead tuning the spin test with the felt marker is the only test you need to do.
Should you repeat any of the previous steps to make sure your broadhead is flying straight?
What about alignment of blades with fletchings?

I would Say NO...the spin test is only after bow and arrows are tuned...and before the steps described above ....then Spin test then... test fire the broadheads...THEN use Broadhead tuning method described here...
http://www.outdoorsmenforum.ca/showthread.php?t=222095

I always have three heads just for tuning...

Neil

[winger7mm]

Some very great info here!! As a new archer (as of feb) Great info.

I often hear of tuning and such, But havent overly understood the exact tuning skills I guess I would say. Alot more to bow shooting then just visually lining everything up and chasing your arrows lol

[Ghillie_frog]

Ok I think I've got process of what to do. Thanks to all the great info. Last question though: Where should my sights be to start this process. Then after all the tuning move the sights to where the fields points and broadheads are hitting in the ten ring?

[L.O.S.T.Arrow]

...Correct..let groups go where it need to..then move that group via the sights back to center of target or X

Neil

[******]

That's a nice article you posted. I really like the way Mark does his tuning advice articles. To the point and easy to follow. He has some excellent fitness posts as well.

Here is the accompanying video if anyone is interested.

http://soleadventure.com/2014/06/the...ning-your-bow/

[slingshot27]

Im always amazed at the pure amount of information available here

[Venginator]

I've done this method, works great. My bow is nicely sighted in to 60 yards... as long as the bow is still during the shot! haha

[L.O.S.T.Arrow]

Originally Posted by Venginator

I've done this method, works great. My bow is nicely sighted in to 60 yards... as long as the bow is still during the shot! haha

AS is mine and now I also shoot out at the longer distances this time of year...although my personal set efficent and comfort range is 50 yards ...I regularly shoot 60-70 and 80 yards...

the more I shoot at these longer distances the more I personally practice best form...then when I shoot at 50 its like shooting 20 yards...

Neil

[nekred]

or if you dont have the distance.....

shoot ten yards on a 20 yard Fita target and shoot for inside out x's and get more shooting and less walking!....

[L.O.S.T.Arrow]

Originally Posted by nekred

or if you dont have the distance.....

shoot ten yards on a 20 yard Fita target and shoot for inside out x's and get more shooting and less walking!....

That could be hard on arrows with a single face FITA target...best get tri-spots... lol

For those that dont know... "Inside out X" means inside the X ring without touching the line of the 10 ring bullseye...[size of a dime]...


We use the Inside Out X's in winter league shooting to break ties..

Neil

[L.O.S.T.Arrow]

Punt !!!

[L.O.S.T.Arrow]

Questions asked ...answer above!

Neil