Primer Pocket Cleaning

[joeya]

So I have reloaded my very first rounds last week, and I was referencing a couple different sources when doing so. I just did 10 rounds for my 25-06 at the minimum powder charge in the manual for Nosler 110gr. accubonds. Just when I finished the rounds, and was reading the steps again to confirm I had completed everything, I realized that I forgot to clean the Primer pockets. The primer seems to be seated flush, but it does almost appear that the factory loads I compared to are seated just slightly more that my reloads (very minute difference).

I am a little hesitant to use these first 10 rounds because of this. Do any of you see an issue here? I was reloading once fired brass with Federal Primers.

Thanks.

[fish_e_o]

they may not be as accurate but i don't think you'll have problems. when i first started reloading i didn't clean my primer pockets at all

[waterhaulerhunter]

Yup, shouldn't have a problem. Like fish said might not be as accurate but you at good to go. I picked up they Lyman pocket cleaner and debuting kit. I think it was like 25$ and has everything you need to debur your necks and clean the primer pockets!

[joeya]

Good to hear. Thanks Guys!

[twofifty]

Lots of people do not take the time to scrape primer pockets and their ammo is fine.

What's really important in your case is that the primers not stick out beyond the base. A primer that stands proud can lead to the round going off while it is being fed into the action, esp. in a semi-auto. In some cases it can lead to a pierced primer. Or to jams. And innacuracy.

Test your 10 rounds by standing them on a piece of glass or countertop. Disassemble any that wobble.

btw, the advantage of a clean primer pocket is that there's no combustion crud in there to mess up what you feel when you seat primers. Seating is very much a feel thing. You can sense how much resistance there is, and that should be somewhat constant. When you feel much more resistance, or very little resistance, you need to stop and look carefully at what's going on. Your reloading manual probably covers this in depth.

[Dmay]

If you happen to need to buy a tool to clean pockets, I believe you might as well buy a primer pocket uniforming tool.
Cleans and cuts pocket so they fit proper and square each reloading.

[gitrdun]

Originally Posted by Dmay

If you happen to need to buy a tool to clean pockets, I believe you might as well buy a primer pocket uniforming tool.
Cleans and cuts pocket so they fit proper and square each reloading.

I've often wondered what if any effect this tool would have on grouping improvements. I do deburr the inside of the flash hole on my target intended ammo as I've learned that this can improve accuracy. Is there proven fact that this uniforming step will tighten the groups further? Always looking to squeeze another 1/4" outta them.

[Dmay]

I can't prove that there is any direct effect on accuracy, but it just makes sense to me that the primers are all seated uniformly. And the fact that, with most of the calibres I shoot, some metal is removed from the pocket each time,tells me that brass is flowing somewhat, changing the dimension of the pocket.
Then again, I'm pretty stupid-anal when it comes to reloading......can't shoot worth a dam, so need all the help I can get.

[tchardy1972]

Originally Posted by gitrdun

I've often wondered what if any effect this tool would have on grouping improvements. I do deburr the inside of the flash hole on my target intended ammo as I've learned that this can improve accuracy. Is there proven fact that this uniforming step will tighten the groups further? Always looking to squeeze another 1/4" outta them.

The benchrest guys do it. Think about what you are doing. You are making all the flash holes the same length inside and out when used with a flash hole deburr tool. Also making the primer sit flush and square in the pocket. This has to make ignition more uniform. now if most guys (including myself) can shoot good enough to see a differnce is one thing. But you can see it across the chrony.

[MadMarty911]

Originally Posted by Dmay

Then again, I'm pretty stupid-anal when it comes to reloading......can't shoot worth a dam, so need all the help I can get.

Well said sir!

[gitrdun]

Originally Posted by tchardy1972

The benchrest guys do it. Think about what you are doing. You are making all the flash holes the same length inside and out when used with a flash hole deburr tool. Also making the primer sit flush and square in the pocket. This has to make ignition more uniform. now if most guys (including myself) can shoot good enough to see a differnce is one thing. But you can see it across the chrony.

This then will be an addition to my reloading tools. Thanks for the valuable info.

[joeya]

Originally Posted by twofifty

Test your 10 rounds by standing them on a piece of glass or countertop. Disassemble any that wobble.

Twofifty - I checked the rounds last night and they have a wobble in them. What is the safest way to dissasemble the live rounds? What tools are required to do this?

Thanks, for the tip on checking this. I have read that the hand primers are much more consistent then doing it in the press, do you guys agree?

[catnthehat]

Originally Posted by joeya

Twofifty - I checked the rounds last night and they have a wobble in them. What is the safest way to dissasemble the live rounds? What tools are required to do this?

Thanks, for the tip on checking this. I have read that the hand primers are much more consistent then doing it in the press, do you guys agree?

Yes, hand primers are better IMO.
Cat

[gitrdun]

I concure. Recently using an RCBS hand primer, I won't be using the press any longer.

[twofifty]

@joeya

There's a couple ways to disassemble live rounds:

1. Use an inertia puller. This is an inexpensive ($15-$20ish ?) hammer-shaped tool that holds a cartridge at one end, by the rim. Whack the other end sharply onto a hard surface. Inertia will pop the bullet out, the powder will fall out. Retrieve bullet and powder from the tool. Bullet will not be damaged.

Take the case out, re-insert it into your primer seating device, seat the primer and you're done. This is a great system if you've got a few rounds to do.

2. Use a collet puller die. ($30-$40ish ?) This is a special die with caliber-specific collet sleeves, that you screw into the top of your single-stage press. Place the live round on the ram, raise it into the collet die, then lower the handle. The bullet is pulled; in some cases the collect fingers will mark it up somewhat but most hunting jacketed bullets can be re-used. A great system if you have a lot of cases to do.

Finish seating the primer as above.

3. There's another system out there that I'm not familiar with.

[joeya]

Great. I have seen those inertia pullers around, I'll be picking one up tomorrow.