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10-11-2017, 06:55 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 4,329
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this
Change one variable at a time...........process of elimination.Harold
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10-11-2017, 10:02 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 1,827
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This is where I start when diagnose a firearm.
I start by removing the action from stock, it needs cleaning anyways. It gives me a chance to inspect the pressure point areas,,, making sure the action is touching the areas they are suppose to.
Then I put it back together "if" everything checks out.
Zero stress along the action sides and nothing bumping up against the trigger or around the bolt handle.
Just before tightening the screws down I put the stock on the ground with barrel up and inch pound by inch pound I slowly tighten the screws,,, lightly bump stock on the floor as I'm trying to make sure the action is at its tightest to the rear of the stock.
Remington rifles with equal size screws are the same inch-pounds,,, 40 ish if I recall,,, Ruger's with larger screw forward and small screw rear I'm guessing is 40 inch pounds front and about 20 or 22 rear,,, the middle screw is ment to hold the floor plate action in place,,, do not tighten it supper tight as it will put things off.
Next are the scope bases,,, slowly tighten, then tap tap,,, repeat this so they are totally equal in torque.
Finger nail Polish holds them secure,,, other folks use what ever.
The bases have to fit like a glove,,, no light or tin-foil should be allowed to fit between the action or base.
And when checking the action screw holes,,, make sure there is no metal rise around the hole.
It's been known that the slightest bulge could prevent the scope bases from sitting flat and true.
I like to have the front ring bumped tight forward on the front base,,, the rear ring tight to back.
It find it prevents the rings or scope when mounted from having the chance to move forward or back.
The scope wants to go forward when the big bang goes off, then it wants to slide forward since it bounces off us the shooter.
Just a thought that is.
I lay a 1" steel rod in my ring bases to make sure they aline,,, less chances of dinting to outer shell of the scope tub,,, other folks have fancy tools for this.
Then the tap tap slow process of putting the scope(s) on,,, Yuppers,,, I change optics alot, so once a scope gets mounted, it will live with those rings forever.
And it allows me to trouble shoot the in-accuracy of optic issues if some thing is going on.
It's nice having a few optics since it allows us to test them once in a while,,, just me again.
Next I felt pen the bolt lugs, that way I know that they are both in contact with the inner lugs in the action.
Check the throat for burn and crown for chips or deformities.
My 2 rifles are free floated and zero stress bedding,,, so anything in that category is sorted.
Now it's shooting time.
The first 5 I call fliers, then I get at it in groups of 3.
Heavy bars get the one hand,,, Sporter get the death grip.
That is grip on the forearm with no touchy of iron barrel and free float trigger finger only at the rear.
My face and shoulder are the anchor points back there.
Solid block of wood on a solid bench.
The only thought in my noodle is trying to hit a 2" plastic Donkey at 1000 yards, think small shoot small.
If something isn't working I know its the rifle,,, of course my Marksman friend is always kicking around for a second shooter.
I'm sure I forgot lots of dio in my post Treeroot, but at least it allows you or others to pick and choose on a idea of getting things sorted.
Start with the easy and work up from there. There are lots of brothers and sisters on this forum that will help.
I ain't mo firearm Smith nor claim to be since I use R Galloway to sort things out fast.
His hands are like magic.
Don
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10-11-2017, 05:02 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catnthehat
have you taken the action out of the bed and inspected it?
It may have an issue there, or possibly the scope, I always pout a known accurate scope on a rifle , and if things improve, well it's the scope. if not, then I look at the rifle bed and other possibilities..
Cat
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I took the action out, cleaned everything up and reassmeble with proper toqure using a fat wrench turque driver.
I ruled out the scope when the accuracy starting getting bad.
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10-11-2017, 05:37 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 2,788
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I have a Ruger M77 in .30-06 where the accuracy dropped suddenly. I noticed a spot near the muzzle where a patch pulled through easier. Turned out that there was a bulge near the muzzle. Shortened up the barrel an inch and recrowned it and the accuracy returned.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Princecraft, Humminbird, MinnKota, Cannon, Mack's Lure, & Railblaza Pro Staff
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10-11-2017, 06:17 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Between the mountains and the prairies.
Posts: 1,949
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Quote:
Originally Posted by treeroot
I took the action out, cleaned everything up and reassmeble with proper toqure using a fat wrench turque driver.
I ruled out the scope when the accuracy starting getting bad.
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And how did that rule out the scope? How do you know for certain that the scope didn't malfunction?
I think that the only way to rule out the scope is to install another one and check accuracy.
__________________
Life is too short too shoot ugly guns.
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10-11-2017, 08:38 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobinthesky
And how did that rule out the scope? How do you know for certain that the scope didn't malfunction?
I think that the only way to rule out the scope is to install another one and check accuracy.
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I switched the scope on the 30-06 with a scope on another center fire. 30-06 still wasn't shooting right, other center fire shot fine with the scope that was always on the 30-06
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10-11-2017, 10:07 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: SE, Saskatchewan
Posts: 671
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Did you check mounts and bases for tightness of the screws ? I am assuming yes.
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10-11-2017, 10:46 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 3,171
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Make it into a 338-06 with a new barrel👍
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10-11-2017, 11:05 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Dreadful Valley
Posts: 14,611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by treeroot
I took the action out, cleaned everything up and reassmeble with proper toqure using a fat wrench turque driver.
I ruled out the scope when the accuracy starting getting bad.
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How did the recoil key look?
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There are no absolutes
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10-12-2017, 07:25 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 220 Swift
Did you check mounts and bases for tightness of the screws ? I am assuming yes.
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They were properly torqued and I used clear nail polish to lck them in. This was a few years ago. I redid them a week ago when I cleaned it.
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10-12-2017, 07:25 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick284
How did the recoil key look?
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Had a bit of rust on it, but cleaned up fine
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10-12-2017, 07:39 AM
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Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 15,829
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Have you altered anything with the ammunition?
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“I love it when clients bring Berger bullets. It means I get to kill the bear.”
-Billy Molls
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10-12-2017, 07:53 AM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Dreadful Valley
Posts: 14,611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by treeroot
Had a bit of rust on it, but cleaned up fine
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The aluminum key stock that mortised into the action, had rust?
__________________
There are no absolutes
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10-12-2017, 09:25 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Near Edmonton
Posts: 15,043
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If the bore is good and clean, and it sounds like it is, and rhe scope is good and properly mounted then the answer is check for crown damage or the gun is moving in the stock. Glass bed the action and use a 10x magnifier to check the crown.
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10-12-2017, 09:02 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
Have you altered anything with the ammunition?
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no. I tried many brands and weights and settled on TTSX as the most accurate. But the accuracy isn't great and seems to be getting worse.
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10-12-2017, 09:03 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick284
The aluminum key stock that mortised into the action, had rust?
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The rust was from the barrel.
The underside of the barrel/action that's seated in the stock had a bit of rust.
I take care of the gun, but when you get caught in the rain, there's no wiping and oiling that area without taking it apart and siting in again
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10-13-2017, 08:22 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Oz
Posts: 2,122
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Just wipe your equipment down with a tuff cloth and you won't have to worry about corrosion. Check them out on YouTube if you don't know what I'm talking about.
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10-13-2017, 08:34 AM
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Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 15,829
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Quote:
Originally Posted by treeroot
no. I tried many brands and weights and settled on TTSX as the most accurate. But the accuracy isn't great and seems to be getting worse.
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So have you changed anything? Lot numbers on the ammunition, if you reload, seating depth, powder lot etc.
__________________
“I love it when clients bring Berger bullets. It means I get to kill the bear.”
-Billy Molls
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10-13-2017, 08:38 AM
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Banned
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: rollyview
Posts: 7,860
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Quote:
Originally Posted by treeroot
no. I tried many brands and weights and settled on TTSX as the most accurate. But the accuracy isn't great and seems to be getting worse.
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copper fouling get yourself some aggressive copper remover and go to town for a day or two.
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10-14-2017, 12:03 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Medicine Hat
Posts: 4,237
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Just a thought ...I have a .222 Sako shot little bug holes with Barnes Varmint grenades...Ran out, liked them so much I bought a BIG lot of them....couldn't hit the back stop at 100 yds with the new bullets..... Switched over to Nosler BT ..bug holes once again.....Maybe you just got as bad batch of bullets like I did....just a thought.
__________________
Trades I would interested in:
- Sightron rifle scopes, 4.5x14x42mm or 4x16x42mm
especially! with the HHR reticle. (no duplex pls.)
- older 6x fixed scopes with fine X or target dot.
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