New to Diesel

[rosh]

Originally Posted by 67ZL1

UFA has Rotella T6 on sale till end of April for 130.00/pail. Shell also has a rebate for 35.00 per pail of T6 for a final price of 95.00 per pail. T5 is on sale also and with the 25.00 rebate I thought it worked out to about 80.00 per pail.

Wow, that’s a great deal. Thanks for heads up

[67ZL1]

Originally Posted by rosh

Wow, that’s a great deal. Thanks for heads up

With the rebate you can only have 4 per household address.

[reddeerguy2015]

Originally Posted by 67ZL1

UFA has Rotella T6 on sale till end of April for 130.00/pail. Shell also has a rebate for 35.00 per pail of T6 for a final price of 95.00 per pail. T5 is on sale also and with the 25.00 rebate I thought it worked out to about 80.00 per pail.

Where can you get the shell rebate from ??

[cdmc]

Wherever you buy shell products or online with Proof of purchase

[schurchill39]

Originally Posted by Ken07AOVette

I do it every 5000 km

This is way overkill for modern motors and modern oil. The 3,000 miles/5,000kms was a rule of thumb around from likely before our parent's time and there have been so many advances since then.

For example my 2014 Ford F-150 recommends an oil change every 7,500 miles (12,000km) or 6 months what ever comes first. Pre-2008 they recommend every 5,000 miles (8,000 kms). For a while there BMW was recommending 15,000 mile intervals on their vehicles.

That being said, it's your money you are spending and if it makes you feel warm and fuzzy doing it so frequently and the $$ doesn't bother you then giver. I'm not one to tell another man how to maintain his vehicles.

[Ken07AOVette]

Originally Posted by schurchill39

This is way overkill for modern motors and modern oil. The 3,000 miles/5,000kms was a rule of thumb around from likely before our parent's time and there have been so many advances since then.

For example my 2014 Ford F-150 recommends an oil change every 7,500 miles (12,000km) or 6 months what ever comes first. Pre-2008 they recommend every 5,000 miles (8,000 kms). For a while there BMW was recommending 15,000 mile intervals on their vehicles.

That being said, it's your money you are spending and if it makes you feel warm and fuzzy doing it so frequently and the $$ doesn't bother you then giver. I'm not one to tell another man how to maintain his vehicles.

My F350 6.7 is driven twice a year, to Rupert and back. It pulls my boat there, then back empty. Then to Rupert empty, and pulls the boat back. Then it sits in the garage all summer and winter.
Oil is cheap for such an expensive truck.

[schurchill39]

Originally Posted by Ken07AOVette

My F350 6.7 is driven twice a year, to Rupert and back. It pulls my boat there, then back empty. Then to Rupert empty, and pulls the boat back. Then it sits in the garage all summer and winter.
Oil is cheap for such an expensive truck.

Oh well if its sitting then yea, you're changing more off time than you are kilometers at that point. My comment was more geared towards a vehicle that gets daily driven. If you're only putting on 5,000 a year total that makes sense.

[walker1]

You got some good info here. A bit more...

hitch B and W 2 piece drops into the puck system and all powder coated. Bought mine at rangeland RV and saved about 400 bucks as the RV show was in town and there were sales on. You can put that in yourself and I don't even know you!!!

For oil, I go by the message minder prompt and let dealer do everything while under warranty. I run OEM everything.

I run ford pm22 cetane booster every tank of fuel. Our trucks require a certain number count for cetane and what we get is not that number. I find it a good product and buy it bulk and keep small 22 oz bottles in the truck.

Stock 20 michelin are quiet towing my heavy toyhauler. Didn't want road noise. Run hankook ipike winters om dedicated rims.

You will not need airbags with a 12k trailer. The 250 has a weaker spring pack and does sag some with 2000 pounds in the box, not the 350.

Had a 2012 lariat and now a 2017 platinum. Made the change as the braking on the 2012 was only soso with a 16k toyhauler in hills. The turbos were changed in 2015 and the true exhaust braking in great with 2 settings.
Enjoy that truck. the Scorpion 6.7 is a beast!!!!

[eggy]

For your hitch I recommend Steelhorse Truck Outfitters in Okotoks. I bought my b&w hitch there, really good guy to deal with.

[Big Grey Wolf]

Just change oil every 10,000 km and never, mean never pin it until blows black smoke, plug it in during cold weather. It will last you minimum of 500,000km.

[jstubbs]

Originally Posted by Big Grey Wolf

Just change oil every 10,000 km and never, mean never pin it until blows black smoke, plug it in during cold weather. It will last you minimum of 500,000km.

Also: change your fuel filters every second oil change. Injectors and fuel pumps are extremely expensive to replace. One fuel injector for a newer Duramax is anywhere from $400-800.

[TBD]

ur good for 8000 kms per change, one thing to consider if your going to run syn make sure you're also running lower micron filitration filters that are designed for the new synthetics. Shell products are on sale at UFA every spring mid march and fall.


on my cummins 6.7 i use rotellA T6 and the blue donaldson filter, which gets dumped on the first change and replaced only on the second.





TBD





PS ... im under $50 a change for syn oil, compared to 3 hun plus at the stealership




if u decide to do maintenance 'urself make sure u fill the filters with oil before turning them on - something i doubt the stealership's do.


... with the BIG filters thats a long time to run with no oil pressure

[sweld]

Originally Posted by TBD

ur good for 8000 kms per change, one thing to consider if your going to run syn make sure you're also running lower micron filitration filters that are designed for the new synthetics. Shell products are on sale at UFA every spring mid march and fall.


on my cummins 6.7 i use rotellA T6 and the blue donaldson filter, which gets dumped on the first change and replaced only on the second.





TBD





PS ... im under $50 a change for syn oil, compared to 3 hun plus at the stealership




if u decide to do maintenance 'urself make sure u fill the filters with oil before turning them on - something i doubt the stealership's do.


... with the BIG filters thats a long time to run with no oil pressure

If you could let me know where I can get 13 litres of 5w40 full synthetic and a filter for a 6.7 Ford for 50 bux that would be greatly appreciated


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Coiloil37]

Unless your subjecting the engine to cold starts there is ZERO point in running synthetic if your not deleted. The soot and fuel will have your oil contaminated long, long before the additive pack in dino oil would of been depleted. Even if your truck lives outside is there no option to plug in instead of wasting money on synthetic?
I am deleted plus have bypass filtration. I’ve done oil samples at 10k km and have zero (zero) ppm soot and zero fuel in my oil, the entire sample at 10k km looks perfect. I still don’t see the point in spending any money on synthetic oil and my truck could run it a very long time between services. In the nine years my trucks been in existence it’s been cold started once and oil changes are cheap and easy. Synthetic isn’t going to offer me anything.

New diesel owner I would be filtering that fuel, mines fitered to 2 micron and 99% of the water. Dirty fuel will kill your fuel system. Let it warm up before you stand on it and keep up with your maintenance. I also wouldn’t touch a ford but your to far past that to take my advice.

[Big Grey Wolf]

Coiloil, is correct major trucking firm in Edmonton ran their transport trucks with just changing oil filters every 10,000km and left good quality diesel oil unchanged. They did metal/wear analysis each change and found no detectable wear until around 50,000km.

[MountainTi]

Originally Posted by Coiloil37

Unless your subjecting the engine to cold starts there is ZERO point in running synthetic if your not deleted. The soot and fuel will have your oil contaminated long, long before the additive pack in dino oil would of been depleted. Even if your truck lives outside is there no option to plug in instead of wasting money on synthetic?
I am deleted plus have bypass filtration. I’ve done oil samples at 10k km and have zero (zero) ppm soot and zero fuel in my oil, the entire sample at 10k km looks perfect. I still don’t see the point in spending any money on synthetic oil and my truck could run it a very long time between services. In the nine years my trucks been in existence it’s been cold started once and oil changes are cheap and easy. Synthetic isn’t going to offer me anything.

New diesel owner I would be filtering that fuel, mines fitered to 2 micron and 99% of the water. Dirty fuel will kill your fuel system. Let it warm up before you stand on it and keep up with your maintenance. I also wouldn’t touch a ford but your to far past that to take my advice.

I've always ran synthetic in my old cummins, and the old girl has well over 1000000kms worth of hours on it (just a guess, truck spent a lot of time running 12 hours a day without many kms in that period, you know how the oilpatch can be). Truck has been started countless times below -45, coldest I started it was -48. Unless you have a pan heater, being plugged in doesn't do much for the oil in the bottom. I typically run Mobil 1, buy a case or three every time it comes on sale. $7/litre is pretty cheap insurance. Truck is the old farm truck now, but to this day it still runs strong with no oil consumption (just leaks some....cummins don't leak oil, they sweat horsepower )
All my trucks and tracors run quality synthetic. I even run synthetic in my small engines at home here (push mower, ride on mower). In those I run shell rotella 5-40. Once again, stock up when it's on sale.

I do agree with you on the Ford point though.....

[Coiloil37]

Originally Posted by MountainTi

I've always ran synthetic in my old cummins, and the old girl has well over 1000000kms worth of hours on it (just a guess, truck spent a lot of time running 12 hours a day without many kms in that period, you know how the oilpatch can be). Truck has been started countless times below -45, coldest I started it was -48. Unless you have a pan heater, being plugged in doesn't do much for the oil in the bottom. I typically run Mobil 1, buy a case or three every time it comes on sale. $7/litre is pretty cheap insurance. Truck is the old farm truck now, but to this day it still runs strong with no oil consumption (just leaks some....cummins don't leak oil, they sweat horsepower )

All my trucks and tracors run quality synthetic. I even run synthetic in my small engines at home here (push mower, ride on mower). In those I run shell rotella 5-40. Once again, stock up when it's on sale.



I do agree with you on the Ford point though.....

I agree with the synthetic oil if the trucks going to be cold started. I read a test of dino oil once. As I remember it, 10w30 oil in a chev 350 gas jobber. -20 deg ambient temp on a cold start and it took nearly 2.5 min for oil to be pumped to the head. That’s a lot of wear that could be avoided.

It should be safe to assume your trucks a 5.9 and avoided all of the emissions junk. Something like that could easily run a synthetic many tens of thousands of km between changes but you would need to do samples to see how far you can push it. In that case the additional cost of synthetic becomes a non issue. If you were still changing it every 5k km because your stuck in the past then it’s a waste of money.

I’m running a 5.9 Cummins as a shack gen at work. It’s got 45k hours on it running a dino mobil delvac 15/40 with 500 hour services. All we run is a delvac 15/40 and with a few 100k hours across all my engines I’ve yet to see a lube related failure.





I know there’s nothing wrong with rotella and truth be told most any modern oil but check out the duron line by petro Canada. They’re putting out what I would consider the best 0/40 and 5/40 on the market.



For the OP and you new players. You also need to learn how to service an air filter. 90% of the particles an air filter will pass are passed in the first 10% of its life. They’re the least efficient when they’re new and they’re SUPPOSED to look dirty. Donaldson themselves call this a protective dust coating. Before I started changing based on restriction my oil samples would come back with 25-40 ppm silicon. Now they’re 3-5 ppm silicon. Avoid aftermarket filters like the plague and put a restriction gauge on your intake. Then don’t even look at your filter until it’s pegged the restriction meter.


It’ll look like this




You can always read about air filters here.

http://powertherm.com/PT2/images/PDF...ation19-28.pdf

If your not deleted check your manifold absolute pressure sensor frequently. It’ll be clogged with soot.


My Cummins doesn’t leak or burn any oil but I’ve always looked at it this way

Cummins, putting oil back in the ground since 1919. Can’t get any greener then that.

[dicknormal]

Originally Posted by Ken07AOVette

Oil is cheap for such an expensive truck.

My thoughts as well, I put on about 35,000 a year. At my cost of $85.00 all in for oil and filter per change my 5,000 interval compared to 10,000 intervals costs me $290.00 more a year. Peanuts over a year. I'm running Chevron Delo 10W30 Synblend and Fleet Guard filters.