Re-finishing a wingmaster

[223MB]

I have a wingmaster that I picked up used that has some minor blemishes to the bluing & stock. What’s the best way to remove the old bluing under the vent rib barrel? Is it worth it to do it yourself with the bluing kits you can buy in store or should I just leave it for a gunsmith to do.

[fordtruckin]

Does t have to be blued? I would look at a cerekote personally. You can still get itina dark blues color and have a much more durable finish.

[223MB]

Originally Posted by fordtruckin

Does t have to be blued? I would look at a cerekote personally. You can still get itina dark blues color and have a much more durable finish.

there's a couple worn out spots on the side of the barrel and receiver. I would like a durable coating as it's my goose gun so it will get hunted with. What would be a estimated cost for a cerekote job?

[Hunter Trav]

Originally Posted by 223MB

there's a couple worn out spots on the side of the barrel and receiver. I would like a durable coating as it's my goose gun so it will get hunted with. What would be a estimated cost for a cerekote job?

Should be a few hundred depending on how much they need to take apart for you. If you can disassemble the gun yourself it will cost less. I had it done on an old Cooey .22 and paid about $250ish if I remember correctly...

[223MB]

Originally Posted by Hunter Trav

Should be a few hundred depending on how much they need to take apart for you. If you can disassemble the gun yourself it will cost less. I had it done on an old Cooey .22 and paid about $250ish if I remember correctly...

Definitely can take her apart, does anyone have experience with the bluing lots you can buy from cabelas or crapytire? Is it cheap and poor quality like I assume it is?

[plmnnkoqaz]

Those kits certainly have their place for the odd touch up, it is difficult to get an even finish. Proper hot or rust bluing is a totally different electrochemical process that leaves a deeper, stronger and more uniform finish.

[petew]

Originally Posted by 223MB

Definitely can take her apart, does anyone have experience with the bluing lots you can buy from cabelas or crapytire? Is it cheap and poor quality like I assume it is?

I have had good results on bare steel muzzle loader barrels with the G96 cold paste blue.

1 / Clean and de-grease several times, then do it again.

2 / Warm the piece so it is almost to hot to handle . I use a butane torch.

3 / Flood the steel with paste , smoothly and evenly. use a cotton ball , or clean cotton . It will be drying as fast as you put it on.

4 / let is set till cool and polish it with 0000 steel wool .

If it isn't to your liking degrease and do it all over again. When you are happy neutralize with baking soda/ water then rinse thoroughly , dry , and oil it well.

[Groundhogger]

Originally Posted by plmnnkoqaz

Those kits certainly have their place for the odd touch up, it is difficult to get an even finish. Proper hot or rust bluing is a totally different electrochemical process that leaves a deeper, stronger and more uniform finish.

Personally, I'd probably leave it as is. If I was hell-bent on it looking "newer"...I'd either get it rust blued, or parkerized. The latter is a dull, more grey-ish color when complete. It's the finish used on military firearms, designed to trap oil better. (I've been told)

I've had a Wingmaster (non VR) barrel hot-blued, but I'm not sure they can hot-blue a VR barrel. I know you can't hot-blue a double, it compromises the strength of the solder holding them together.

I've had a Citori O/U barrel rust blued, an 870 Express barrel parkerized to match my 870 Police, that Wingmaster barrel hot blued, etc. Cerakote is no tempation to me whatsoever.

[577/450]

Originally Posted by 223MB

Definitely can take her apart, does anyone have experience with the bluing lots you can buy from cabelas or crapytire? Is it cheap and poor quality like I assume it is?

Get some brownells oxypho blue past easy with great results