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  #31  
Old 09-16-2016, 10:13 AM
bhlehr bhlehr is offline
 
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Even simpler ... I bolted a piece of wood (not sure the size, smaller than 2x4), to the crate. Saw that on a YouTube video. YouTube is your friend. :-)

Brian
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  #32  
Old 09-16-2016, 12:12 PM
Unclerj Unclerj is offline
 
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I took the easy route and just bought a set of wheels. I seem to remember getting them quite a bit cheaper than $140. Or at least, that's what I told the wife....

https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5018-932/Tuff-Tire-Cart

Also, even this one slips off if I take it on a bumpy route. I've leaned the hard way to attach both straps right away and also to loop one of them over a cowling or through the center handhold of the kayak. If they are just on the kayak they slide back and then the entire thing just pulls free.

Last edited by Unclerj; 09-16-2016 at 12:19 PM.
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  #33  
Old 09-16-2016, 07:46 PM
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I finally got tired of dinking around with gear and took the damn kayak out fishing today! But nothing biting where I was... time of day?



Anyway back to the stupid cart; it performed decent, but still the issue of it wanting to slide out, when I first put it under the kayak.
Once I have the strap run over it and cinched down, I haven't had any issues with the cart sliding.

I decided that lowering it slightly, would help reduce the angle, when I'm first tucking it into place, and this might reduce the annoying issue of it sliding out on me. I cut the short verticals that support the rails. Glued up new rails and fit it back together. This reduced the height from 24" TO 21-1/2".

I also got some foam pipe insulation, that I'm going to glue onto the rails to help it stay put until I get the strap on it.


Cart height reduced from 24" TO 21-1/2".
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"Placed correctly Swift A-Frames will reliably kill big bears. So will North Forks, Nosler Partitions, Barnes TSX, Kodiaks, Woodleighs, GS soft points, Hornady Interbonds and Speer Grand Slams - and if I missed your favorite bullet -it probably will too.
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  #34  
Old 09-16-2016, 09:09 PM
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Not sure of the scupper hole placement on your yak, but have a look at the Hobie Carts and you may be able to modify yours in a similar fashion. With the Hobie Carts, they have 2 fingers that go up into the scupper holes to hold it in place.
JH
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  #35  
Old 09-16-2016, 09:18 PM
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^ James Henry, the scupper holes are pretty small on this kayak; only about 1/2".

They're right down the middle. I suppose there might be a way to add a cross-piece, with a pin to mate up with them. That would certainly help.

I will look at that. Thnx for the suggestion!
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"Placed correctly Swift A-Frames will reliably kill big bears. So will North Forks, Nosler Partitions, Barnes TSX, Kodiaks, Woodleighs, GS soft points, Hornady Interbonds and Speer Grand Slams - and if I missed your favorite bullet -it probably will too.
It's time to go hunting and quit all this ballistic masturbation."

Phil Shoemaker
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  #36  
Old 09-16-2016, 09:18 PM
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You may want to lower the cart even more. Your first time over a bumpy side hill will let you know if it is low enough or not lol.

I hate my hobie cart... Stupid overpriced piece of junk. The wheels are too close together so always flipping over and then the pegs that come up through the scupper holes are a decent idea but the cart needs a kick stand cause the way it is now you have to pretty much empty your kayak to put it on the cart(or have a helper lift kayak).

Taller tires help with uneven ground too. My carts have the same little wheels but I have been thinking about making myself a new one. I got my hands on some bicycle trailer wheels that I was thinking about using but haven't got around to making something yet(I'm not a pvc wizard like yourselves lol).
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  #37  
Old 09-16-2016, 09:25 PM
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RavYak, now that I've built this cart, I can immediately see all the little 'tweaks' that could be done to improve it.

The wide wheel base on this is great. It is very stable. Rolls great, and there's not much flex/movement in the frame, as it hits small bumps... but we're only talking parking lot and front lawn type stuff.

Remains to be seen how it would handle bigger holes and ruts.

I've already got the idea I might add angle brace(s).

Haha!

Btw, I confess... I'm into this for $170 so far!!
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"Placed correctly Swift A-Frames will reliably kill big bears. So will North Forks, Nosler Partitions, Barnes TSX, Kodiaks, Woodleighs, GS soft points, Hornady Interbonds and Speer Grand Slams - and if I missed your favorite bullet -it probably will too.
It's time to go hunting and quit all this ballistic masturbation."

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  #38  
Old 09-16-2016, 11:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Demonical View Post
Btw, I confess... I'm into this for $170 so far!!
That is what a crappy hobie cart costs...

It is also why I have been slow/hesitant to build my own as I know it won't be cheap if I build a good one.
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  #39  
Old 09-17-2016, 01:03 AM
bhlehr bhlehr is offline
 
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Here is my cart on the kayak. Used the wheels from the cart I had purchased for my other kayak last year. Drill a hole in each end of the board, and insert the wheel bolts. They are a snug fit, but become looser with use. On the bottom of the board, about three inches from the end, cut out a small notch the width of the board. This holds the bungee in place so it doesn't slip off. Cart is held on with one bungee on each side. Best of all, the kayak doesn't slip off.

Added Scotty tracks and fishfinder today. Love it! Could only find one gear head adapter in Edmonton, so couldn't use my new rod holder. Fishing Hole and Sports Wholesale all sold out. If cabellas doesn't have them, I'll get a couple from Amazon.

The transducer worked great on the trolling motor. Caught a few nice walleye on pigeon lake.
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  #40  
Old 09-17-2016, 03:09 AM
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^ That's a helluva lot cheaper than the route I took! Solid, simple, looks sturdy as hell too.


Btw, I keep saying I used PVC, of course it's actually ABS pipe/fittings.
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"Placed correctly Swift A-Frames will reliably kill big bears. So will North Forks, Nosler Partitions, Barnes TSX, Kodiaks, Woodleighs, GS soft points, Hornady Interbonds and Speer Grand Slams - and if I missed your favorite bullet -it probably will too.
It's time to go hunting and quit all this ballistic masturbation."

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  #41  
Old 09-17-2016, 05:18 PM
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Crappy pic but I can definitely add a center post that will mate up with the scupper hole opening.
The 1-1/4" ABS fits right into the moulded opening of the scupper hole bottom.

All that needs to be done is to cut the center piece, glue a tee in it, insert the post...



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"Placed correctly Swift A-Frames will reliably kill big bears. So will North Forks, Nosler Partitions, Barnes TSX, Kodiaks, Woodleighs, GS soft points, Hornady Interbonds and Speer Grand Slams - and if I missed your favorite bullet -it probably will too.
It's time to go hunting and quit all this ballistic masturbation."

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  #42  
Old 09-17-2016, 06:53 PM
dutchman dutchman is offline
 
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I was going to tell you about the foam, which helps a lot to keep the yak from sliding off. Plastic on plastic is just too slippery. But I see you did that already.
I tried the scupper hole post, actually had 2 side by side, but it just didn't work great on mine. Not enough weight on from the yak onto the cart, made the cart flex and want to bend away when going over any big ruts or holes. The strap works better on my cart.
If anything, you did give me an idea. Drill a hole or put some kind of ring on the cart to strap to. I always tangle a tie-strap though the pipes to wrap around. Anything to make things easier.
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  #43  
Old 09-17-2016, 07:03 PM
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dutch, that's a great looking cart!

Did you make that?

Right now I just have the pipe insulation sitting on the rail tubes. I'm going to get some double-sided tape and put that onto the rails, then the insulation should stay in place perfectly.

And of course, I'm going to do the scupper hole post, when I can get another tee. I bought out the local supply haha!

I thought about drilling holes in the frame to hook the bungie cords but was worried about doing anything that could weaken it.
Instead, I tie-strapped rubber bungies on my cart, that my ratcheting tie-downs hook onto.

You can see that in the pic...
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"Placed correctly Swift A-Frames will reliably kill big bears. So will North Forks, Nosler Partitions, Barnes TSX, Kodiaks, Woodleighs, GS soft points, Hornady Interbonds and Speer Grand Slams - and if I missed your favorite bullet -it probably will too.
It's time to go hunting and quit all this ballistic masturbation."

Phil Shoemaker
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  #44  
Old 09-18-2016, 08:39 PM
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James Henry James Henry is offline
 
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Zoffinger has great DIY YouTube videos and has many excellent ideas. The video's are worth checking out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uXn--tGc9vE

Jh
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  #45  
Old 09-19-2016, 12:22 PM
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Dutchman,

I just built your cart this morning and figure I'm $40 into it. I am looking at a Jackson Kraken to supplement my Hobie and thought this cart would work for both.
$26 for the 3/4" pvc, 7 T's and 3/8 round stock. $4 pool noodle from CT (The bigger noodle). I bought a $10 boys bike off Kijiji and used it's 17" wheels/tires. A few dollars for the washers and cotter pins.

Works pretty good, thank you
Jh
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  #46  
Old 09-25-2016, 05:03 PM
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I made some final modifications to my kayak cart.

Shortened the vertical uprights; inserted a tee and center post, to mate up with the scupper hole.

The shorter cart is the way to go... wish I'd done it this way to start!

The post fits that scupper hole perfectly, and nicely positions the kayak on the rails.

I used double-sided tape to secure the pipe insulation.











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"Placed correctly Swift A-Frames will reliably kill big bears. So will North Forks, Nosler Partitions, Barnes TSX, Kodiaks, Woodleighs, GS soft points, Hornady Interbonds and Speer Grand Slams - and if I missed your favorite bullet -it probably will too.
It's time to go hunting and quit all this ballistic masturbation."

Phil Shoemaker
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  #47  
Old 09-25-2016, 08:55 PM
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I gotta say that is a pretty fancy homemade abs cart.
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  #48  
Old 09-26-2016, 08:26 AM
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Demonical,

Nice job indeed! Looks great
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  #49  
Old 09-26-2016, 09:27 AM
dutchman dutchman is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James Henry View Post
Dutchman,

I just built your cart this morning and figure I'm $40 into it.
Works pretty good, thank you
Jh
Hey, I'm glad it worked for you. I had to buy the noodle for $2. Then a couple hours of my time, trying to figure out how to build it. I found a couple pics on google and then just went from there.
I know it's just a silly cart, but it sure makes getting to the water a lot easier. Wait till you walk through the parking lot with your kayak, guaranteed you will get people asking about the cart.
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  #50  
Old 09-26-2016, 09:35 AM
dutchman dutchman is offline
 
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[QUOTE=Demonical;3338027]I made some final modifications to my kayak cart.
Shortened the vertical uprights; inserted a tee and center post, to mate up with the scupper hole.
The shorter cart is the way to go... wish I'd done it this way to start!
QUOTE]

Now hurry up and patent that design and you can start selling them. That is a nice looking cart. Funny how a guy spends so much time perfecting those little things for the toys.
Have you had a chance to go fishing in the new yak?
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  #51  
Old 09-26-2016, 02:12 PM
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Thanks for the comments on the cart. It was a compilation of ideas, most of them from other guys. I can take no credit except for the construction.

And the scupper hole post, that James Henry suggested, that thing is the answer! When I slide the cart under the kayak, and that post 'finds' the scupper hole, the cart just fits. That was the best of the best ideas I borrowed! Haha!


As for fishing, yes, been out three times. Finally caught my first fish in the new boat today, as a matter of fact; a nice pike. I'm saying 8-9 lbs?


At the boat launch, Whitecourt, Sept 26-2016.


Fall colours on the river.


I set up my fishfinder mount the way RavYak suggested, on a Scotty Gearhead.


I boated a fat pike on a brown Mister Twister.


The pike was 8 lbs for sure, but I didn't weight it or measure it, and I released it back to the river.


Beauty morning.


Unloading the kayak.
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"Placed correctly Swift A-Frames will reliably kill big bears. So will North Forks, Nosler Partitions, Barnes TSX, Kodiaks, Woodleighs, GS soft points, Hornady Interbonds and Speer Grand Slams - and if I missed your favorite bullet -it probably will too.
It's time to go hunting and quit all this ballistic masturbation."

Phil Shoemaker
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  #52  
Old 10-12-2016, 05:40 PM
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Killing time today and prepping for the next (year) trip...

I'm tempted to get back out there this fall, but being kind of 'soft', I probably won't.

I added an 8" storage hatch, that I bought on Amazon.

Adding this storage hatch had two purposes for me; number one, extra storage...
But number two, it allowed me to access the interior of the rear hull.
The pad-eye I had on the back, for my anchor trolley rig, was secured with screws.
Getting the access into the hull, allowed me to replace those screws with #10/24 machine screws.
I also bought some #10, 1" stainless washers, and #10/24 stainless lock nuts.

I added these 1" washers on each of the machine screws, where I mounted the pad-eyes, plus the Scotty mounts, and have the lock nuts on each machine screw.

Everything is done right, and snug.

I still have to mount another (maybe two more) Scotty mounts, for an extra rod holder(s). Going to put those on the back of the deck, on the inside of the front storage hatch.


This thing was like $25...






The plastic in the hull is 3/16" thick.


The bag is not waterproof. It is removable though.


Pelican had a model out they called the Catch 120 NXT, which had a storage compartment, in this rear deck (along with a couple other extras).


On the center console hump, I added a Scotty Flush Mount base, picked up another Scotty Gearhead, and made a drink holder. Very important for those hot days.
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"Placed correctly Swift A-Frames will reliably kill big bears. So will North Forks, Nosler Partitions, Barnes TSX, Kodiaks, Woodleighs, GS soft points, Hornady Interbonds and Speer Grand Slams - and if I missed your favorite bullet -it probably will too.
It's time to go hunting and quit all this ballistic masturbation."

Phil Shoemaker
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  #53  
Old 10-12-2016, 08:32 PM
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That is a great set up, what's next? I put an automatic bilge pump in mine, $20 clearance at Walmart. I'm sad to put mine away
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  #54  
Old 10-12-2016, 11:05 PM
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Bilge pump? Haha! I don't think I'll be doing that.
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"Placed correctly Swift A-Frames will reliably kill big bears. So will North Forks, Nosler Partitions, Barnes TSX, Kodiaks, Woodleighs, GS soft points, Hornady Interbonds and Speer Grand Slams - and if I missed your favorite bullet -it probably will too.
It's time to go hunting and quit all this ballistic masturbation."

Phil Shoemaker
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  #55  
Old 10-13-2016, 09:00 AM
ETOWNCANUCK ETOWNCANUCK is offline
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I myself want a kayak, as space is limited for storage as I live in a townhouse and do not have a garage.
How are you finding storing yours?

How far out of your truck box does it extend?

I have a F-150 with a 6 1/2 box.

How is it for stability while casting, retrieving and pulling in a fish.

Nice pike by the way.
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  #56  
Old 10-13-2016, 11:31 AM
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ETOWNCANUCK,

I myself want a kayak, as space is limited for storage as I live in a townhouse and do not have a garage.
How are you finding storing yours?


Ans: I have mine sitting on my kayak cart, at the back, and the front resting on a small bench, that's the same height as the cart.
It's just in my garage, occupying some floor space.

How far out of your truck box does it extend?
I have a F-150 with a 6 1/2 box.


Ans: This kayak is 11'8" long. I have a long box pickup, so an 8' box.
When I go on short trips, just in town, I've actually been leaving the kayak cart strapped on the bottom of the kayak.
So it's sticking out over the end-gate like 2-1/2'...
I would not leave the cart on it for trips out the highway.

How is it for stability while casting, retrieving and pulling in a fish.

Ans: This kayak is quite stable. I haven't tried it yet, but my buddy stood up on it. There's lots of Youtube videos of guys fishing in this exact kayak, and standing up, while casting.
I kinda doubt that I will do that.
But next summer, I am definitely going to take it out, without any gear on the boat, and I'm going to practice trying to capsize it, stand on it etc... to learn just what it will do, and how far I can go before it will capsize.

Nice pike by the way.

Ans: Well thank you! That pike was somewhere between 8-10 pounds, but I don't have a scale. Gave me a helluva fight, in the current of the McLeod River, that's for sure!


As to this kayak, I would definitely recommend it, but it's all about budget. The Pelican Catch 120 costs $1,000. I bought mine at Canadian Tire. A nice thing about CTC (if there's one in your town) is you can order one online, and CTC will deliver it to your local store, without a shipping charge. Which is about a $150 discount, if you ordered from pretty much any other store.

There are some similar kayaks that are cheaper, some a lot more expensive. The YakAngler website has reviews on every make and model of kayak there is.

http://www.yakangler.com/fishing-kayak-review
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"Placed correctly Swift A-Frames will reliably kill big bears. So will North Forks, Nosler Partitions, Barnes TSX, Kodiaks, Woodleighs, GS soft points, Hornady Interbonds and Speer Grand Slams - and if I missed your favorite bullet -it probably will too.
It's time to go hunting and quit all this ballistic masturbation."

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  #57  
Old 10-13-2016, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ETOWNCANUCK View Post
I myself want a kayak, as space is limited for storage as I live in a townhouse and do not have a garage.
How are you finding storing yours?

How far out of your truck box does it extend?

I have a F-150 with a 6 1/2 box.
Do you have yard space etc for storing a kayak? Fishing kayaks are a decent size so you need a spot to store it, without a garage you would have to put it in a backyard area with a tarp over it or maybe under a deck or something if you have that kind of area. Leaving it outside is fine but you want to cover it to protect it from the sun and to keep eyes off it(depending on area locking it up might be a good idea too).

A 12 foot kayak will be fine in a 6.5 ft box. We regularly transport our 12 foot Outbacks in my buddies Tundra with a 6.5 ft box. They stick out a bit but not bad.
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Old 10-15-2016, 05:04 PM
dutchman dutchman is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ETOWNCANUCK View Post
How are you finding storing yours?

How far out of your truck box does it extend?

I have a F-150 with a 6 1/2 box.

How is it for stability while casting, retrieving and pulling in a fish..
I have a different brand kayak, but similar design. I too have a 6-1/2' box on my F150 and with tailgate down it sticks out a couple feet. No big deal.
Store in a large shed, still on the cart or long term I lay it upside down on a stand.
Mine is super stable, have stood up in it, not when fishing though. Very comfortable sitting with the raised seats, so 4 hours is no problem.
I did take it out, fooling around trying to capsize it. There was no way I could flip it while standing. I would fall off before it capsized. As for sitting down, it took a strong effort to capsize. Had to basically pull it over and lean hard into the water to flip it. I've been out in some rough water, (including wakeboard boats that come too close), and feel pretty confident in keeping right side up.
This is my first year with a kayak, had lots of fun and it's opened up a new chapter in the fishing dept.
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  #59  
Old 10-15-2016, 11:07 PM
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If you're interested in a kayak, make sure to do your research.

Check out reviews. http://www.yakangler.com/fishing-kayak-review

Every kayak in those reviews will also have videos on Youtube, that you can watch, to help with your decision.

It's also buying season on Kijiji.

If you are patient, odds are some time in the next 6 months, you're going to find one or more of the kayaks that interest you, for sale on Kijiji.

And there could also be season ending clearance deals, at the different outlets that sell kayaks, in Edm or Cgy...
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"Placed correctly Swift A-Frames will reliably kill big bears. So will North Forks, Nosler Partitions, Barnes TSX, Kodiaks, Woodleighs, GS soft points, Hornady Interbonds and Speer Grand Slams - and if I missed your favorite bullet -it probably will too.
It's time to go hunting and quit all this ballistic masturbation."

Phil Shoemaker
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  #60  
Old 10-16-2016, 12:59 AM
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Just a couple of notes from a long-time yak-fisher!

Most manufacturers don't recommend storing your yak on its cart. That section of the hull isn't designed to hold the weight for extended periods and it can warp your hull. This is a big problem in the southern states with hot weather, but it could happen here too - especially in an unvented garden shed sitting in the hot sun. I store our Hobies either upside down on cross braces, or hanging on their sides along the basement wall with wide, heavy-duty strapping.

If you fly-fish from a yak, you know what a pain it is to quickly get your fly-rod out of a Scotty fly-rod holder - that's mounted well in front of you (where you'd mount it for trolling). I've switched over to STEALTH rod holders for this reason. They release easily from any angle, yet hold your rod securely. They work for any type of rod.

And, I've used Hobie carts quite a bit and agree that they would perform better with a wider stance. While not perfect however, don't dismiss them for longer 'portages' over rough ground. With the right tires, I've been able to take them on trails up to 2 km long into mountain lakes - even with my heavy PA12. I've also been able to modify a cart that converts from a cart into a brace for a motor-mount for an electric trolling motor - utilizing the scupper holes and a piece of 2 x 4.
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