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  #31  
Old 12-28-2012, 06:46 PM
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DaleJ DaleJ is offline
 
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I use Lapua brass when possible to save doing a lot of this B.S. You thought TC was lazee.

Use a Sinclair priming tool with soft rubber plugs to seal flash holes and use water volume to verify uniform case capacity, with a graduated veterinary syringe. Water doesn't bridge-off.

Everything that uniforms neck tension is worth doing. Uniform neck tension and zero seated bullet run-out will give ultimate accuracy. I get less bullet run-out with Wilson or Jones arbor press dies than any Redding Comp seater has ever delivered.
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  #32  
Old 12-28-2012, 10:30 PM
DuctapedGopher DuctapedGopher is offline
 
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Thanks for all the great tips. Just got back into reloading after being away from it for about 20 years.
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  #33  
Old 02-17-2013, 09:51 AM
260 Rem 260 Rem is offline
 
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BTT for newbie questions
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  #34  
Old 02-17-2013, 10:26 AM
densa44 densa44 is offline
 
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Smile Case capacity/wall thickness

First, thank you for this post it helps me a lot. I also see the experts are reading this too, so my question is directed at those who have an opinion. I can't figure why case capacity should matter, if the powder volume is the same for every shell. The difference in case volume would be pretty well made up when the trigger is pulled and all cases became the same size as the chamber.

Is there a performance difference between "thick" and "thin" walled brass?

I have that "green" corn cob media for my tumbler, and I'd like to clean the insides of the brass case, can I buy and add jewelers rouge, if so how much.

Thanks again, for those of us who work alone, this is the best way to get better.
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  #35  
Old 02-17-2013, 11:08 AM
tchardy1972 tchardy1972 is offline
 
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It's for the same reason that you should never load mixed headstamp brass. And for the same reason that if you are running a max load in federal cases and switch to hornady you could be well over pressure. The smaller the capacity of the case, the quicker it builds pressure.
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  #36  
Old 02-17-2013, 11:09 AM
260 Rem 260 Rem is offline
 
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densa - Hope the threads initiated regarding the topic of RELOADING helps. I was motivated by how long it took me to learn the reloading ropes, and would have saved a lot of cash and grief if I would have the benefit of others knowledge. In the end, I watched the shooters at the Range who got the most consistent and smallest groups ...and asked them.
Regarding case volume...imagine the pressure generated by a pound of powder inside a closed 5gallon pail, compared with the pressure generated by that same pound of powder inside a 45 gallon drum. Only the scale is different with smaller quantities/volumes.
Not aware of performance difference between different wall thickness' of brass. In 308's, I used to use a lot of Fed gold medal brass which is very thick walled, it shot well, but seemed rather soft and I started getting neck splits after about 13 reloads. More recently, I have used Lapua brass which has a thinner wall...it too shoots well, but lasts longer. IMO, wall thickness would not be a big factor in accuracy...the important thing would be to sort whatever brass you use to get get consistency.
FWIW - I never do more than run a nylon neck brush inside my brass.
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  #37  
Old 02-17-2013, 11:19 AM
lyallpeder lyallpeder is offline
 
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Case volume matters, using .308win 150gr ttsx with varget and Federal cases I get compressed loads. Same bullet, powder and Winchester cases I don't.
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  #38  
Old 02-18-2013, 10:33 AM
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Dumbo_Dave Dumbo_Dave is offline
 
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Default tumblimg media

Something I haven't seen mentioned yet is using Lizard Bedding. Get it at higher end pet stores. Costs a fraction of Lyman (my first purchase) and is about half the particle size of the Lyman. It is ground walnut without any kind of jewler's rouge. I just use a little Nu Finish car polish (a couple of teaspoons every couple hundred cases).
I like the smaller particle size as it rarely bridges in the case and more importantly in the flash hole. (As long as there isn't too much polish in the mix).

I bought mine a Pisces Pet Emporium in Calgary. Got a bag about 4 times the size of the Lyman for about half the price. Just ask them for Lizzard Bedding.
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  #39  
Old 02-18-2013, 10:38 AM
elkhunter11 elkhunter11 is offline
 
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Quote:
I have that "green" corn cob media for my tumbler, and I'd like to clean the insides of the brass case, can I buy and add jewelers rouge, if so how much.
If you want the ultimate in clean brass, inside and out, try stainless media in a tumbler. But you must use an actual tumbler, not a vibrating cleaner.
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  #40  
Old 02-18-2013, 11:14 AM
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ShawnM ShawnM is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elkhunter11 View Post
If you want the ultimate in clean brass, inside and out, try stainless media in a tumbler. But you must use an actual tumbler, not a vibrating cleaner.
Need to anneal your cases more frequently if you use stainless media because it will work harden the brass. Better off sticking with walnut media IMO.
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  #41  
Old 12-14-2013, 06:49 PM
260 Rem 260 Rem is offline
 
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Some ideas here for you bragXXX
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  #42  
Old 11-26-2015, 09:25 AM
260 Rem 260 Rem is offline
 
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Rolhammer - bumping this old thread which may be of interest. Back then, did a "series" of reloading related threads. Lots of good tips by reloaders much more experienced than myself. I have since "modified" some of my techniques thanks to the wisdom of others. If interested, there are similar threads regarding seating, necks, etc.
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  #43  
Old 11-26-2015, 01:13 PM
RolHammer RolHammer is offline
 
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Thanks 260!
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  #44  
Old 11-26-2015, 08:51 PM
spoiledsaskhunter spoiledsaskhunter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 260 Rem View Post
Not sure why it works for me, but it does. When I first started reloading, I would do the set up according to the manual which usually said something to the effect that the sizer die set-up should be set so there is contact between the die base and the shell holder...then back off 1/8 turn. I found when I full sized brass that had been once fired in another chamber (police discards), that some resisted easy chambering...which I finally realized was because the web was not being "squeezed" far enough towards the base. I kept decreasing the distance between the die base and the shell holder and eventually got to the point they were touching...with no more sticky chambering and no apparent damage to the press (it is an old Lee Challenger which has now resized 20 - 30 thousand cases). Also, after about a year of full length sizing, I switched to neck size dies and (with the exception of my 30BR)...exclusively neck size.
I'm with you on this one....been doing it since 1975!
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  #45  
Old 11-26-2015, 11:31 PM
skidderman skidderman is offline
 
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A lot on what to do. Have learned a lot not to do. I first tried neck sizing and had trouble. Then I tried partial full length sizing. Another mistake as often they will not feed correctly or at all. Now I full length size everything & before I'm finished I test fit in my rifle. I also tumble and if not used for a long time, tumble again. Why? To keep the cases from rusting. I also once mixed lots of the same bullets and sorted by weight. Mistake again. The different lots had a different ogive. Now I sort by ogive length but not sure I gain anything. A lot of trial & error over many years. Sometimes we read to much. Stick to the basics & usually that works best.
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  #46  
Old 11-27-2015, 08:39 AM
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Skid, I presume you meant that your neck sized brass did not chamber properly, as NK sizing should not affect feeding? Sometimes, NK sized brass requires the shoulder to be bumped back. The need to bump shoulders generally becomes more frequent with hotter loads.
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