Honda Rubicon DCT vs Yamaha Grizzly

[Rackmastr]

Hey all,

In the used quad market (something with under 1500km ideally or I may have to look at buying new).

Always been a Honda guy and have owned a Foreman 500TRXFM in the past. Have rode a few others but not many. I don’t mud and am not a fast rider, more just enjoy getting out for hunting, fishing, and a nice ride with the kids now and again.

Thinking about my wife riding occasionally, I’m starting to look at a non foot shift model. Two that come up are the Yamaha Grizzly and the Rubicon 520 DCT. I’ve looked at the Can Am max a bit but will be truck boxing for now so not sure it fits the bill as well.

Any comments on DCT vs Belt drive on the Yamaha from experiences? I can’t say I love the look of the Grizzly as much or the fender design but guys sure love them and reliability is up there for me.

Thoughts or comments?

[moniaw24]

You can't go wrong with either.. I'm partial to the Grizz as I own one... trouble free and on my second one... easy to service, more than enough power and I like the ergonomics for hunting purposes... thnx

[Sooner]

I was a Honda guy but rode old mid 90's. Got 2000k on my 2021 Grizz 700 and have no regrets. I was done with foot shifting so the automatic is sweet. The power steering and diff lock are great to have. Bought the SE so it came with wheels, tires and a winch. Immediately upgraded to a 3500 lb winch, added hot grips and a quick release windshield for hunting in Nov.


I am still smiling every time I ride it. My opinion is it has more than enough jump, fun to trail ride(smooth ride) and is a great workhorse when needed.


I have no experience with the new Hondas but its a Honda, so you can probably count on it being good too.

[Talking moose]

Was a Honda guy since the 80’s. Right up until I used a friends grizzly in about 2010 for the weekend.
Next one I bought was a grizz 700. Both are great for reliability but the grizz is better to drive.

[Sooner]

Originally Posted by Talking moose

Was a Honda guy since the 80’s. Right up until I used a friends grizzly in about 2010 for the weekend.
Next one I bought was a grizz 700. Both are great for reliability but the grizz is better to drive.

Same for me but it was my friend's 06. The ride that 660 had was Cadillac compared to my 92 TRX. Plus it ripped. Sold me on the Grizz but had to wait a long time to get mine lol.


Flash forward to 2021 when that same friend, a Can Am guy now, took it for a ride. Gets off and says yup, that ride is a Yammy, so nice.

[Drewski Canuck]

Baby Brother has had a Grizz 660 and currently a 700.

I have 2 Grizz 660's, one for me one for the son.

Yamaha is easy enough to work on, and whether Carb or EFI are pretty reliable.

One issue to look at on the early 700's is there was an issue on a Stator overheat due to using engine oil as the coolant.

Simple enough, on the 660's disconnect the battery when it is running and check the voltage. Should be in the 12 - 14 volt range. If not, Stator damage. Not a tough change out and aftermarket Stators have higher output anyway.

On the 700's you cannot disconnect the battery as the EFI always need voltage, but you will be able to check against the voltage output on the battery leads.

Stators are pretty dependable, but remember on the 700's there is no rope start like the 660. If there is a battery drain, you are done. You should carry a lithium booster pack for good measure.

660's can be bored out for a rebuild on the piston. On the 700's the cylinder sleeve is Nitrile steel. Very hard to do an overbore and you are buying a new cylinder if it ever needs a rebuild.

Both machines have their plus and minus, but I do like the Yamaha products.

Drewski

[Map Maker]

Meant to be pm

[hogie]

I was set on buying a Honda in 2016, thought I would check out the Grizzly before putting a deposit down. Test drove Grizzly first, then Honda. Trying to get the Honda in reverse was a deal breaker. Went back to Yamaha and bought the Grizzly. Since been replaced by Yamaha Wolverine X4. Very reliable units.

[Blockcaver]

I upgraded a used 2002 Honda 500 Rubicon to a used 2013 Yamaha Grizzly 550 6 years ago.

Pluses for the Grizzly are FI, PS, independent rear suspension, a much better seat, locked 4x4 system, regular 4x4 or rear wheel drive. Mine came with a nice Warn winch, heated grips and a fairing so was set up well.

Drawbacks to the Grizzly are it's a much higher RPM design....you can't putt around in a higher gear, leading to much higher gas consumption, louder, and the racks are not quite as sturdy.

Since both machines I mentioned are old...11 years for the Grizzly and the Honda would be 22 if I still had it, probably not a valid comparision

I did use a more modern Honda Rubicon (2018 I think) when caribou hunting in hunting in Nunavut. That one had IR suspension, FI, power steering and was a 5 speed foot shift. It was an excellent riding machine and the seat was soft like my Grizzly, you could putt with it, etc. Dandy machine...I'd own one, toss up with my Grizzly I'd say. If they hold up to the Inuits year around use in the muskeg and brutal winters, they can't be too bad! I saw 90% Hondas up in the arctic over several hunts.

I did test a Honda Rubicon with the DC tranny at the local dealer once. Was not impressed in the least with how it functioned....but heard they re-programed the DC tranny and dealt with those issues.....don't know.

On Yamaha's...avoid the larger 700cc (Subaru built?) engine era machines...I think 2016 thru maybe 2019 before they went back to the 686 Yamaha engine. There were plenty of issues with them vs the 686.

Good luck in your search, and I would not be afraid to buy a machine with 3,000 or or even 5,000 km on it. I know of plenty of Hondas that have gone 20,000 miles and are still running well on ranches in AZ and MT. Obviously were taken care of. I'd stay away from snorkeled "Mudders" and obviously beat up machinery though.

[walker1]

Originally Posted by Drewski Canuck

Baby Brother has had a Grizz 660 and currently a 700.

I have 2 Grizz 660's, one for me one for the son.

Yamaha is easy enough to work on, and whether Carb or EFI are pretty reliable.

One issue to look at on the early 700's is there was an issue on a Stator overheat due to using engine oil as the coolant.

Simple enough, on the 660's disconnect the battery when it is running and check the voltage. Should be in the 12 - 14 volt range. If not, Stator damage. Not a tough change out and aftermarket Stators have higher output anyway.

On the 700's you cannot disconnect the battery as the EFI always need voltage, but you will be able to check against the voltage output on the battery leads.

Stators are pretty dependable, but remember on the 700's there is no rope start like the 660. If there is a battery drain, you are done. You should carry a lithium booster pack for good measure.

660's can be bored out for a rebuild on the piston. On the 700's the cylinder sleeve is Nitrile steel. Very hard to do an overbore and you are buying a new cylinder if it ever needs a rebuild.

Both machines have their plus and minus, but I do like the Yamaha products.

Drewski

Bang on regarding the stator issue. My 2007 Grizz had this issue. Would overheat and lock out me starting it. Replaced . Other than that and one rear axle that is all it has done. I don't put a lot of k on but a great machine .

[CBintheNorth]

Well I'm on the other side as everyone.
Have a 420 with the DCT and love it. I was never a fan of belts.
I've rode a 660 and it was okay. I just love that I never have to touch my Honda. I've had several and have never been left stranded.
I can't say that about any other brand in camp.

In the heavy stuff I keep it in manual and thumb shift, but on trails and easy riding, the automatic is really nice. My wife rides it when we hit the Iron Horse and thinks it's great.
My vote goes to the 520.

[Rackmastr]

Originally Posted by CBintheNorth

Well I'm on the other side as everyone.
Have a 420 with the DCT and love it. I was never a fan of belts.
I've rode a 660 and it was okay. I just love that I never have to touch my Honda. I've had several and have never been left stranded.
I can't say that about any other brand in camp.

In the heavy stuff I keep it in manual and thumb shift, but on trails and easy riding, the automatic is really nice. My wife rides it when we hit the Iron Horse and thinks it's great.
My vote goes to the 520.

Thanks appreciate that vote of confidence in the Honda as well. Not hard for me to steer myself towards Honda given the years of experience with them. That being said, I cant deny the overwhelming amount of Yamaha Grizzly fans out there, so it must mean something.

Looking at a 2016 Grizzly 700 next week thats local to me with 2200km on it. I rode an older 660 years ago for a couple hours, but havent dabbled much in them other than that.

Appreciate all the responses regardless. Not sure I can go super wrong with either.

[JohninAB]

The 2016 to 2018 Grizzly 700’s had the 708cc engine which is not as highly regarded as the 686cc engine found in other model years. Issues with oil burning and poorly designed cylinder head. Just a FYI.

[Rackmastr]

Originally Posted by JohninAB

The 2016 to 2018 Grizzly 700’s had the 708cc engine which is not as highly regarded as the 686cc engine found in other model years. Issues with oil burning and poorly designed cylinder head. Just a FYI.

Ironic as I had read that and just did a bit more research on which years.

Think its probably worth avoiding the Subaru 708 in those years from what I can tell. Appreciate the insight on it and the heads up as I had just been reading about the same thing!

[Rackmastr]

Hard not to look at the 2023/2024 Outlander 500 models as well in the search. It seems their pricing is pretty damn competitive when I look online at either a 500 DPS or a 500 Outlander Pro.

[mryimmers]

I know you didn't ask, but if you are considering those 2 quads, you really should at least have a look at the Suzuki KingQuads too, 500 or 750.

[Prairiewolf]

I just bought a new Rubicon DCT in January. It is my first quad, and admittedly I haven’t even used it yet.

It’s purpose is hunting only (getting a camp deeper into trails, game retrieval).

The biggest factors for me in choosing it were the DCT (no belts), reputation of reliability, weight, and overall fit and finish.

Price-wise, I doubt a Honda was the best deal, but over time I think it will be.

[Hogie135]

Go with the Grizzly. I've been riding a 2018 Yamaha Kodiak 700 for 5 years now. I do all types of riding from trails, hunting, towing kids around with it in a sled and Mudding. I've got 11,000 kms on it and she is still going strong. Everything on it is original parts except the fuel pump which died on me at 9,000 kms.

you cant kill a Yamaha

[kingrat]

Cant beat either one. Personally I'm a Honda guy had 420 rancher and now 520 Rubicon both foot shifters and bullet proof. Honda are not belt driven and cheaper than yamaha so theres 2 big pluses in my books.

[Dean2]

My 2002 Honda Foreman, manual shift, full time 4x4, is still going strong. I keep it mostly because it JUST fits in the box with the canopy on. I would have switched to the independent suspension ones for the better ride, but they are too tall to fit with the canopy on. My existing one plows driveway all winter,, and has since I bought it new. It really only gets used out hunting if we have a recovery, so the ride really isn't the biggest deal.

For plowing, a better system for engaging reverse, which I use a lot at this house, not so much the old place that had a long driveway and parking pad, and an automatic transmission would be great. A fuller featured plow, versus the fully manual Warn that is now 22 years old and still going strong, would be a nice upgrade too. As I get older, convenience is more and more important. I might actually buy something just for plowing to get those convenience features, and keep the Honda just for hunting.

Any of you guys have recommendations on a plow with power angle and lift adjustments that don't use the winch?

[daveyn]

I have a 420 rancher with DCT and hate the shifter and would go back to a manual in a heartbeat. I find the Auto constantly is late shifting and that when you need to be in first the tranny is still in 2nd gear and bogging going up any kind of a hill where you need first, just before it stops completely it will jump into first so hard the front wheels almost come off the ground which is a little concerning if you're already going up a pretty steep incline.
The handlebar mounted electronic manual shifters work pretty well until the bike gets hot from running for a while and then if you are stopped and try to downshift it will get stuck between gears and you have to shut the bike down and wait for it to cool before it will go back into any gear.
Love the honda, hate the auto, foot shifter would be the option for me.

[Rackmastr]

Originally Posted by daveyn

I have a 420 rancher with DCT and hate the shifter and would go back to a manual in a heartbeat. I find the Auto constantly is late shifting and that when you need to be in first the tranny is still in 2nd gear and bogging going up any kind of a hill where you need first, just before it stops completely it will jump into first so hard the front wheels almost come off the ground which is a little concerning if you're already going up a pretty steep incline.
The handlebar mounted electronic manual shifters work pretty well until the bike gets hot from running for a while and then if you are stopped and try to downshift it will get stuck between gears and you have to shut the bike down and wait for it to cool before it will go back into any gear.
Love the honda, hate the auto, foot shifter would be the option for me.

Thanks, the type of info and real world experience that I’m trying to get more of.

Reading about the grizzly 16-18 kinda scares me out of looking at them with oil burning. Especially not knowing history with previous owners

[Rackmastr]

The 2016 Grizzly I was looking at this coming week has had the top end, piston, rings etc done by the dealer from a few years back. Has 2200km on it now.

Anything to look for or be worried about if the work is done, or should a person steer clear of those years regardless?

[Talking moose]

Originally Posted by Rackmastr

The 2016 Grizzly I was looking at this coming week has had the top end, piston, rings etc done by the dealer from a few years back. Has 2200km on it now.

Anything to look for or be worried about if the work is done, or should a person steer clear of those years regardless?

Not to mechanicaly inclined myself but why was the top end done already at only minimal km? Is it linked to the the oil running hot? Oil breaking down from excessive heat and damaging parts prematurely?
I’d be Leary.

[Rackmastr]

Originally Posted by Talking moose

Not to mechanicaly inclined myself but why was the top end done already at only minimal km? Is it linked to the the oil running hot? Oil breaking down from excessive heat and damaging parts prematurely?
I’d be Leary.

The piston/rings were done for sure due to the service notice that came out about the 2016-2018 models burning oil, so it was done under warranty under the service notice that Yamaha did. Thats the recommended fix from Yamaha if theres oil consumption that they noticed was a problem with this motor from the sounds of it.

It sounds like a very common thing with those years that Subaru made the 708 motor, which at least the owner had fixed. Just wasnt sure if someone would still buy one after having that work done or not.

[Rackmastr]

https://www.grizzlycentral.com/threa...lletin.112395/

[Talking moose]

Well if that’s the main problem with that particular engine, and it’s been addressed, I wouldn’t hesitate.
Unless there is some sort of problem that is known to accompany the fix….

[Rackmastr]

Originally Posted by Talking moose

Well if that’s the main problem with that particular engine, and it’s been addressed, I wouldn’t hesitate.
Unless there is some sort of problem that is known to accompany the fix….

Ya 10-4. Have to do a bit more research but thats all part of the fun with these things haha.

[CBintheNorth]

Originally Posted by Dean2

My 2002 Honda Foreman, manual shift, full time 4x4, is still going strong. I keep it mostly because it JUST fits in the box with the canopy on. I would have switched to the independent suspension ones for the better ride, but they are too tall to fit with the canopy on. My existing one plows driveway all winter,, and has since I bought it new. It really only gets used out hunting if we have a recovery, so the ride really isn't the biggest deal.

For plowing, a better system for engaging reverse, which I use a lot at this house, not so much the old place that had a long driveway and parking pad, and an automatic transmission would be great. A fuller featured plow, versus the fully manual Warn that is now 22 years old and still going strong, would be a nice upgrade too. As I get older, convenience is more and more important. I might actually buy something just for plowing to get those convenience features, and keep the Honda just for hunting.

On your left shifter there are two cables. One goes to the brake, the other engages the switch for the reverse. Tighten the cable that's not the brake just enough, and you don't have to hit the brake and push the red button to shift into reverse.
Be careful though, as if you blow past neutral, you'll be in reverse.
Not sure how you could blow past neutral, but I guess it could happen.
I did the same thing on my DCT. No more button.
With that one blowing past neutral is not an issue, as you have to be completely stopped to go into reverse.

[CBintheNorth]

Originally Posted by daveyn

I have a 420 rancher with DCT and hate the shifter and would go back to a manual in a heartbeat. I find the Auto constantly is late shifting and that when you need to be in first the tranny is still in 2nd gear and bogging going up any kind of a hill where you need first, just before it stops completely it will jump into first so hard the front wheels almost come off the ground which is a little concerning if you're already going up a pretty steep incline.
The handlebar mounted electronic manual shifters work pretty well until the bike gets hot from running for a while and then if you are stopped and try to downshift it will get stuck between gears and you have to shut the bike down and wait for it to cool before it will go back into any gear.
Love the honda, hate the auto, foot shifter would be the option for me.

As I said in my earlier post, when riding hard I leave it in manual, as I can see what's coming, but the bike can't.

Never had a issue shifting in manual when the bike is hot. Low on oil maybe?