Mechanical broadheads and moose....

albertadeer · #1 08-05-2015, 10:09 AM

Ok, so over the years I've had a hell of time tuning broadheads to match field
Points. But the past two years I've been shooting mechanical heads much more consistent.. I've never taken any game with them... I normally hunt elk during archery cause I loooooove calling them in, but this year I'm going on a canoe hunt for moose.

I assume expanding heads are fine? Is there any need to worry? I know I'm cutting it close time wise for changing stuff around. But being a novice archer I'm just looking for some advice

Thanks!

Lefty-Canuck · #2 08-05-2015, 10:23 AM

As long as your bow produces a MINIMUM of 60-65+ foot pounds of KE a mechanical should perform as intended. The higher the KE the better for mechanicals IMHO.

LC

Kurt505 · #3 08-05-2015, 10:31 AM

I've got about a dozen moose who will tell you that mechanicals are deadly, the only time I shot a moose in the vitals and decided to take a follow up shot to finish him off is when I was using a slick trick broadhead. The cutting diameter is too small for my liking on those.

albertadeer · #4 08-05-2015, 10:47 AM

Thanks guys. Looking forward to calling a big bull to the lake shore on a foggy morning!

Alberta Bigbore · #5 08-05-2015, 11:30 AM

1 3/8 Grin Reaper Razortips. Shot at 10 and 23 yards. And with a like arrow and the head was 85 grains to boot.

I'll be using them again this fall.

3blade · #6 08-05-2015, 11:35 AM

Stay off the shoulder, and watch them for frost formation or other crap that could stop them from opening.

The bigger question is why you're having issues...usually indicated a bow/arrow problem...an arrow that isn't flying straight will be losing energy, which is problematic for all broadheads but especially mechanicals. Have you gone through all the usual tuning steps?

albertadeer · #7 08-05-2015, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3blade

Stay off the shoulder, and watch them for frost formation or other crap that could stop them from opening.

The bigger question is why you're having issues...usually indicated a bow/arrow problem...an arrow that isn't flying straight will be losing energy, which is problematic for all broadheads but especially mechanicals. Have you gone through all the usual tuning steps?

I have tried.... My last bow was fine. This one seems strange. Grouping out to 30 is wonderful. But i can tell the arrow isn't flying true and must be loosing some energy past that.

Because of this I limit myself to inside 30yds when hunting. No issues with that as I love calling and most shots I've been around for are under 20.

I think within the week I'm going to get a new rest and some new arrows.

Right now I'm shooting a limbsaver bow 29" draw 65lbs. It has a limbsaver drop away rest. Im thinking of going back to the whisker biscuit this season.

3blade · #8 08-05-2015, 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by albertadeer

I have tried.... My last bow was fine. This one seems strange. Grouping out to 30 is wonderful. But i can tell the arrow isn't flying true and must be loosing some energy past that.

Because of this I limit myself to inside 30yds when hunting. No issues with that as I love calling and most shots I've been around for are under 20.

I think within the week I'm going to get a new rest and some new arrows.

Right now I'm shooting a limbsaver bow 29" draw 65lbs. It has a limbsaver drop away rest. Im thinking of going back to the whisker biscuit this season.

Uh oh....I think you need a visit to LOST or accurate archery or jimbows...

It is really late in the year to be changing stuff if you're new, highly recommend you get it looked at by a pro shop. Spec tune, correct arrows, then paper tune, then broadhead tune. Lots of threads on this, but you are better off spending the money and a full day with someone who can show you the first time around.

Mechanicals are not a solution for a poorly tuned bow. In fact, they are probably worse, especially on something the size of a moose.

albertadeer · #9 08-05-2015, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3blade

Uh oh....I think you need a visit to LOST or accurate archery or jimbows...

It is really late in the year to be changing stuff if you're new, highly recommend you get it looked at by a pro shop. Spec tune, correct arrows, then paper tune, then broadhead tune. Lots of threads on this, but you are better off spending the money and a full day with someone who can show you the first time around.

Mechanicals are not a solution for a poorly tuned bow. In fact, they are probably worse, especially on something the size of a moose.

No worries, I'm not "new" I've been shooting for 12 years or more now. I know my limits and my bows limits. The bow was "tuned" twice now by a local pro shop... Obviously not to good. I just can't seem to find the time and space to figure out why it's being finicky.... I will have no problems with a new rest and new arrows. I think after the season I will get a new stick flinger.

Mechanicals fly much better and hold better groups out of my bow as is. I Would much rather use fixed heads.

I was just curious as others expericne with mechanicals on big ribs of a moose.

backyard · #10 08-05-2015, 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by albertadeer

No worries, I'm not "new" I've been shooting for 12 years or more now. I know my limits and my bows limits. The bow was "tuned" twice now by a local pro shop... Obviously not to good. I just can't seem to find the time and space to figure out why it's being finicky.... I will have no problems with a new rest and new arrows. I think after the season I will get a new stick flinger.

Mechanicals fly much better and hold better groups out of my bow as is. I Would much rather use fixed heads.

I was just curious as others expericne with mechanicals on big ribs of a moose.

I used grim reapers last year and it cut a rib on entrance and one on exit they were both clean cut no splinters on the ribs

Kurt505 · #11 08-05-2015, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by albertadeer

I was just curious as others expericne with mechanicals on big ribs of a moose.

Last year I shot my bull at 76yds quartering towards me. The arrow went through a rib on the way in and I got 27" of penetration with just the illuminated nock sticking out.

Shoulders on the other hand, are a totally different story. Steer clear of the shoulder of a moose at any range with any broad head.

Lefty-Canuck · #12 08-05-2015, 05:06 PM

Steer clear of any big bone in any animal while using Archery tackle....it's not designed for that

LC

Settle&release · #13 08-05-2015, 05:10 PM

Mechanicals work fine on ribs. Used G5 T3's on moose last year. Passed through at 35 yards hit the backside rib.

NBFK · #14 08-05-2015, 06:31 PM

Put a grim reaper fatal steel through a moose's scapula last year at 30 yrds. Turned ran 20 and did a lip stand.

normanrd · #15 08-05-2015, 07:13 PM

Here's a bull that took a grim reaper at 28 yards. 15 yard recovery. The little red spot in the right place is where I shot him. Would have been a pass through, but broke the leg bone on the far side.

kujoseto · #16 08-05-2015, 10:41 PM

Nice pictures fellas, but did they work? Lol

albertadeer · #17 08-06-2015, 10:02 AM

Excellent responses

I didn't really have a doubt about them working. just didn't want to switch back to fixed this late. Visual confirmation speaks for itself.

In one month I will be chasing bugles through foggy River valleys! BEST time of the year! But I'm hoping silently sliding along in a canoe with huge grunting Bulls along the lakeshore will top it!