Has anyone ever used Seacast or a similar pourable transom product? The reason I’m looking into this method is that the transom on my Lund aluminum boat has about 30 bolts through it and most of the nuts on the inside are not accessible. The rear structure has a live well and battery box and everything is riveted together. I’m thinking that if I leave the bolts in place and chip out the plywood and pour in the Seacast might be my best plan. Unfortunately there doesn’t seem to be a Canadian distributor so will have to order from Florida. I have the winter to get the wood out and order the product in the spring when it won’t freeze before it gets here.
Pictures and/or model would be helpful for best advice - but as long as it's done correctly (using the proper aluminum bonding agent) and the prep is done, it should work.
The key is to make sure you have a enclosed cavity with no leaks into main under hull area.
Having said that,If I had to do it myself (and have on a few boats) - I'd likely remove the back deck, remove all those bolts and bolt holes you don't need and re-skin it (weld perimeter) with aluminum from the inside, then add the appropriate marine ply as you may end up spilling or leaking the Seacast into all sorts of little channels as your stringer intersections may not be fully welded and you pour into an endless pit ... I'd just check that first.
This would make a cool project to photograph and post on - good luck with it.
Not sure what yours looks like, but my transom on my tinner was beat up so I had a piece of stainless sun and bent so it would sleeve the entire transom. Worked like a charm.
Not sure what yours looks like, but my transom on my tinner was beat up so I had a piece of stainless sun and bent so it would sleeve the entire transom. Worked like a charm.
What was the precautions used to prevent reactivity (galvanic corrosion) between the areas where the Aluminum and Stainless are in contact with each other? (if any).
Just curious really - I was under the impression that would not be an ideal situation on a tin boat for sure.
The pictures show what words can't ..... that was helpful....
A pourable product, in your case may be easiest and best (as long as the bottom is sealed off somehow) so you are not pouring five hundred bucks of material into a hole somewhere.
I'd dig out as much of that dirty rotten wood, seal the bottom inch or so and pour it in .... I think you have the right idea.
It may not be as good as rebuilding (re-skinning) it but should be way cheaper (unless you can and have the skills and tools to do it yourself).
There are a lot of rivets there. That does look like a good candidate for a pourable transom. Check out the iboats forum. You’ll find lots of examples on how and what they used.
I have an 18.5 foot in boat aluminum that I restored but was able to pull mine out in one chunk as I just removed the through bolts.
Boat transom repair
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