How much tongue weight?

Buck9 · #1 07-23-2012, 09:31 PM

Just bought a boat and I can grab the winch anchor attachment and move the boat up and down on the trailer. When pulling the boat it bounces and I broke the strap last time. When lifting the hitch it was easy and felt like about 10lbs. I have since moved it ahead on the trailer and now it feels like 150lbs. How do I know what is the correct hitch weight?

Duramaximos · #2 07-23-2012, 11:05 PM

Can you describe the boat and the trailer?
Generally speaking, you want approx 10-15% hitch weight.

I own a tin boat with a heavy outboard, bracket mounted on the end of the platform. In my case 15% tows very nicely. You could probably get away with slightly less if you're running an I/O.

Geezle · #3 07-24-2012, 02:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duramaximos

Can you describe the boat and the trailer?
Generally speaking, you want approx 10-15% hitch weight.

Pics would help too

seahawkfisher · #4 07-24-2012, 08:58 AM

you know you don't have enough tongue weight when the trailer sways; if you have too much weight behind the axle momentum will try to push the trailer faster than the truck and she gets a little squirrly back there.
cheers

Drewski Canuck · #5 07-24-2012, 10:09 AM

Actually, the first question is what is the WEIGHT RATING for your hitch? i saw a smart car with a hitch, really. Also, alot of Volvos have no full frame, and cannot really support a hitch on the sheet metal unibody.

Next, you have to adjust the trailer as above to balance the boat for proper tongue weight. Often about 60 pds seems to work, as you can still lift it if you have to.

Swaying is the symptom of an excessively light hitch. If you want some forward weight, mount the spare tire carrier and spare tire as far forward as you can to still allow your trailer jack to fold onto the frame. That is good for about 60 pounds as well. However, if you still are too light, the trailer and winch support will have to be moved forward to pull the boat forward. this can then create a problem for hull support depending if you have bunks or rollers, and whether the hull is not getting supported as ot should.

Fibreglass is very unforgiving of pressure points, so if that is the style of hull, deal with it up front.

Drewski

browning375 · #6 07-24-2012, 12:30 PM

You can also move your axle back a few inches, which puts more weight on the hitch. I have done this on several boats i have owned, it does not take much of an adjustment to change the weight and is simple to do on most trailers.

Jiffy10 · #7 07-24-2012, 12:52 PM

if the trailer matches the boat for size/ wt and other bunk specs there should
be some room for adjustment . I purchases a boat / trailer unit with approx
30 hrs. on it and the first day I unwrapped it.... I played with the bunk setting
the position of the boat and the winch adjustment . I have approx 80 lb
hitch weight on the tongue now. From what I understand ..... that would
allow some bounce etc. and never have the tongue try to pull up.
The balance allows for easier pulling without sway etc.
( 120 km no problem )

It also allows easier mobiity in my garage when its on the jack/wheel
so i can push it around.

prior to doing the adjustments i think there was approx. 200 lb on the
hitch which was to much for a 16ft alum. boat with a 40 merc on it.

spend the time to balance it..... you'll be happy you did.

Sponge Bob Fish Pants · #8 07-24-2012, 03:31 PM

I had that issue with my boat when I had one, and moved my axle back to correct it the more tongue weight the steadier the ride with no side to side sway 150 isn't over weight as long as you can handle it easy enough when it's off but i"d be tempted to stay around the 100 lb. mark

Buck9 · #9 07-25-2012, 07:24 AM

The boat in question is an 18' Campion s545 I-O fiberglass. Sorry have not figured out the pic thing. It has a swing hitch, and its bunks. What's the best way to weigh your tonque weight, scale and lift up, or use a board or something and weigh it with a scale on the ground. Of course ensure I am on a level surface?

seahawkfisher · #10 07-26-2012, 10:34 AM

one thing i forgot to mention is hitch height. i drive an 07 explorer and i need a 4 or 5" drop hitch to keep the trailer level; if you trailer is not close to level, especially if the front is higher than the back, that will cause issues as well
cheers

browning375 · #11 07-26-2012, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by seahawkfisher

one thing i forgot to mention is hitch height. i drive an 07 explorer and i need a 4 or 5" drop hitch to keep the trailer level; if you trailer is not close to level, especially if the front is higher than the back, that will cause issues as well
cheers

Yes very true, i put a 4" lift on my F150 and used the same hitch on the boat . The trailer was tending to buck alot more because of it being higher, purchased a new drop hitch to get it level and it cured the problem. Find if you lift a boat past its balancing point it does not pull worth a damn, and all weight is transferred to the back causing sway and hitch bucking. More weight on the hitch is better than not having enough, causing it to put stress on the ball latch every time it bounces up.

NSRfishing · #12 07-26-2012, 01:17 PM

Audi TT towing boat in Slyvan Lake Alberta Canada. Audi chipped and 100% hidden hitch design by owner, us boyz in Alberta get her done! Trade Union B pressurer welder. - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTlzUzwIosE

the vids i find on youtube

Drewski Canuck · #13 07-26-2012, 01:49 PM

If you are moving axles back and forth on a spring, maybe get it done at an spring shop. I have personally seen trailers that are not "Square", and it eats up expensive tires in about 5000 K with uneven wear, and if extreme dog tracks the trailer. Sh!t, i have been at it too long.

the Spring Shop will have it true centered, which is a world of difference for tire life.

Drewski

browning375 · #14 07-26-2012, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Drewski Canuck

If you are moving axles back and forth on a spring, maybe get it done at an spring shop. I have personally seen trailers that are not "Square", and it eats up expensive tires in about 5000 K with uneven wear, and if extreme dog tracks the trailer. Sh!t, i have been at it too long.

the Spring Shop will have it true centered, which is a world of difference for tire life.

Drewski

My last 2 trailers were simple, 4 u bolts to loosen, measure each side how much u want to move back, use two jacks to hold weight off the trailer and then tap axle and spring assembly back to your measured mark then tighten ubolts. Simple job took me an hour or so to do.