Who Makes a Good Muzzlebreak in the Edmonton Area??

[Youngbuck13]

Looking to get a muzzle break put onto the 7mm. Who has gotten a good quality muzzlebreak at not such a breaking price? Let me know and even some pics would be nice to see.

Figured I'd share a pic my gf took of me last season with it. (Probably won't work)

[NBFK]

Check out down range precision near barhead.

[Ivo]

Call Joe over at RPS International, if he can't do it he will point you in the right direction. I think his handle here is: Precision Shooter.

[silver]

Nobody.

There is no such thing as a good muzzle break.

If you get one, be prepared to kiss your hearing goodby.

Ditto with any one you hunt with.

I won't be around one, I am sure others feel the same.

I have a couple of big bores that are OK to shoot, spend some time on getting a stock to fit and add some weight, you will be much happier.

[double gun]

Order a vais and get whoever you want to install it. Also get a similar sized/weight blank made for when you are actually hunting. They will shoot very close to the same point of impact and you won't bleed from your ears if you shoot it without ear protection.

[muleyhunter7]

Muzzle brake???? Why would you need that? I know your gun dont kick that much my 12 year old cousin been shooting my vanguard in 7mm rem mag and she dont need one lol

[Youngbuck13]

Originally Posted by muleyhunter7

Muzzle brake???? Why would you need that? I know your gun dont kick that much my 12 year old cousin been shooting my vanguard in 7mm rem mag and she dont need one lol

No it really isn't that bad due to the weight of the gun helping it out. I'm just getting a discussion going to what some options are and considering one to somewhat eliminate the flinch factor. Also my loads might be a little warm haha.

[remmy300]

Originally Posted by double gun

Order a vais and get whoever you want to install it. Also get a similar sized/weight blank made for when you are actually hunting. They will shoot very close to the same point of impact and you won't bleed from your ears if you shoot it without ear protection.

X 2 on a the Vais break. Don't worry about what everyone else thinks in regards to a break. I have one on my 300 WSM and it is like shooting light loads out of a 243. i carry ear protection with me all the time. it is loud but it makes a huge difference when shooting.

[vcool]

People always say there is no such thing as too much gun.... Well this is one of those cases where really it depends on the user. Some one you shoots a .458 Lott well can kill anything on the planet at least as dead as with anything else. On the otherhand, if someone can't handle recoil and develops a flinch, they won't be able to ethically use that gun.. and potentially any other gun to take game.

I used to shoot alot of trap, and people were worried about flinches (considering some days people might shoot off 500+ shells). All kinds of divining and tea leaf reading went in to "do you have a flinch" "what type is it" "how to fix it" and other remedies.

Step One: Do you have a flinch?
Easiest test for it is to go to the range with a friend. Have them load your gun for you 5 times, and within those 5 times to intentionally leave it empty for some of those times. You sit down, unsure if there is a live round or just air in the chamber. Take aim, and pull the trigger. If you have a flinch, it will be pretty clear on the empty chamber. Get your friend to video tape the whole exercise if you want. If you have no flinch you wont significantly jerk/move the gun when you pull the trigger on an empty chamber.

What kind of flinch do you have?
So lets say you do have a flinch, whats next? Well.. alot of conversation seemed to fall around what type of flinch do you have? Is it because of noise? Seeing the bird launch out? The flash from the barrel? Anticipation of recoil? These are all things I have heard people explain/attribute flinches to. I'm sure there's ways of figuring out which is which but it doesn't really matter for your purposes.

Step 2: Fixing it if you have it, preventing it if you don't

Options to fix it
I've seen tons of time and money spent on mechanical ways of reducing flinch, with release triggers being one of the most common ones (a trigger that you pull, then nothing happens, when you let go the gun goes off), recoil reduction systems like GraCoil, powder puff handloads, classes etc. But none of the great shooters (I shot with guys who were consistently the Canadian champs for AAA trap, and some who made it to Grand American Championships) did any of this.

Best advice I got
One shot alot of big bore rifle as well and I asked him about what he does to keep from developing a flinch, he said the 12 gauge wasn't nearly as bad as his 378 Wby which he is used to shooting so it wasn't a problem.

"Ok... well how did you get used to shooting a .378 Wby?"

He told me its all about using a .22 or a heavy, target type .223. You go to the range with a brick of .22lr or a pile of .223, and a box of shells for the big boomer. You set up and shoot one shell from the heavy hitter, then slowly, and intentionally you shoot off 20 rounds from the .22 using the same care and attention for hitting the target as you are for the bigger gun. You do this so your body doesn't begin to automatically associate pulling a trigger with the boom, the flash and the recoil.

If you haven't developed a flinch, do that and it will help to prevent you from developing one. If you have that should work to break it. A well made muzzle break will cut the recoil at the cost of noise. That might not solve any flinch issues, and might make you a whole lot less popular with your shooting pals. That being said, if you need to have to gotta have a muzzle break... Rod Henrickson in Edmonton is a highly recommended smith in my books and he makes his own brakes...

[Battle Rat]

Originally Posted by vcool

People always say there is no such thing as too much gun.... Well this is one of those cases where really it depends on the user. Some one you shoots a .458 Lott well can kill anything on the planet at least as dead as with anything else. On the otherhand, if someone can't handle recoil and develops a flinch, they won't be able to ethically use that gun.. and potentially any other gun to take game.

I used to shoot alot of trap, and people were worried about flinches (considering some days people might shoot off 500+ shells). All kinds of divining and tea leaf reading went in to "do you have a flinch" "what type is it" "how to fix it" and other remedies.

Step One: Do you have a flinch?
Easiest test for it is to go to the range with a friend. Have them load your gun for you 5 times, and within those 5 times to intentionally leave it empty for some of those times. You sit down, unsure if there is a live round or just air in the chamber. Take aim, and pull the trigger. If you have a flinch, it will be pretty clear on the empty chamber. Get your friend to video tape the whole exercise if you want. If you have no flinch you wont significantly jerk/move the gun when you pull the trigger on an empty chamber.

What kind of flinch do you have?
So lets say you do have a flinch, whats next? Well.. alot of conversation seemed to fall around what type of flinch do you have? Is it because of noise? Seeing the bird launch out? The flash from the barrel? Anticipation of recoil? These are all things I have heard people explain/attribute flinches to. I'm sure there's ways of figuring out which is which but it doesn't really matter for your purposes.

Step 2: Fixing it if you have it, preventing it if you don't

Options to fix it
I've seen tons of time and money spent on mechanical ways of reducing flinch, with release triggers being one of the most common ones (a trigger that you pull, then nothing happens, when you let go the gun goes off), recoil reduction systems like GraCoil, powder puff handloads, classes etc. But none of the great shooters (I shot with guys who were consistently the Canadian champs for AAA trap, and some who made it to Grand American Championships) did any of this.

Best advice I got
One shot alot of big bore rifle as well and I asked him about what he does to keep from developing a flinch, he said the 12 gauge wasn't nearly as bad as his 378 Wby which he is used to shooting so it wasn't a problem.

"Ok... well how did you get used to shooting a .378 Wby?"

He told me its all about using a .22 or a heavy, target type .223. You go to the range with a brick of .22lr or a pile of .223, and a box of shells for the big boomer. You set up and shoot one shell from the heavy hitter, then slowly, and intentionally you shoot off 20 rounds from the .22 using the same care and attention for hitting the target as you are for the bigger gun. You do this so your body doesn't begin to automatically associate pulling a trigger with the boom, the flash and the recoil.

If you haven't developed a flinch, do that and it will help to prevent you from developing one. If you have that should work to break it. A well made muzzle break will cut the recoil at the cost of noise. That might not solve any flinch issues, and might make you a whole lot less popular with your shooting pals. That being said, if you need to have to gotta have a muzzle break... Rod Henrickson in Edmonton is a highly recommended smith in my books and he makes his own brakes...

Good advise.
Thankyou.

[calgarychef]

That's some fantastic advice

[elkhunter11]

There is no such thing as a good muzzle break. Any break in a barrel's muzzle is likely a determent to accuracy, and could also be a safety issue.

[Battle Rat]

The best way to reduce recoil is reduce bullet speed and bullet weight.
Add to the rifles weight if practical.
Better yet is learn to enjoy the kick.
Just like a good clean body check in hockey, it might rock you but it won't hurt you.

[diamond k]

Rod Hendrickson

[sns2]

Before I put one of those damnable things on a rifle, I would put it on the buy and sell for a rifle of equal value, but in a cartridge that recoils less. You likely know this, but there's not an animal in this province that can live with a hole in its lungs. You don't need a 7 Mag to do that.

If you put a brake on that gun, people will not like you at the range, and you run a real chance of damaging your hearing when used in the field.

[ACKLEY ABE]

Originally Posted by diamond k

Rod Hendrickson

Yup.......if you really have to have a break Rod is da man. 780.455.3006

[Youngbuck13]

You guys are making me feel like a wimp. It doesn't hurt me and I'm not scared of it so I guess the answer is just don't get one...

[Dr. Phil A]

I went with a limb saver on my Tikka 7mm RM. Since I have long arms it helped with the gun fit. Did wonders for my accuracy. Now I can pull the stock into my shoulder.

Also the trigger pull is about 3 lbs so the shot usually "surprises" me.

Also lots of shooting practice as suggested. I spend some time each summer playing with my other guns. I have a 204 that has a bit of a push so putting some time in on it does wonders. Been shooting gophers out to 200 yards with it this year and yotes to 300.

Remington makes a reduced load for 7mm RM. Maybe try a box of them as they are a good warm up for the season.

[1899b]

Originally Posted by Youngbuck13

You guys are making me feel like a wimp. It doesn't hurt me and I'm not scared of it so I guess the answer is just don't get one...

Then why do you think you need one?

[Youngbuck13]

Originally Posted by 1899b

Then why do you think you need one?

I've tried many muzzlebrakes on other people's rifles and am a fan of their perks. I want to be able to reach out a long ways with this gun and the zeiss (z-800 reticle and am hoping to be able to shoot 400 comfortably) so I'm just looking to some alternatives to eliminate some factors that may cause me to miss. Elk hunt down south in January there will be alot of eyes on me from the herds so being far away is going to be a probability.

[buckman]

I had a Gentry quiet installed on my 300 Weatherby ultralight. Your gunsmith can order them from the makers in Montana.

[stemorholake]

I would get a good recoil pad before I would touch a muzzle break. IMO

[wally338]

Buy yourself a pair Soundgear electronic ear plugs, not cheap but well worth cost.

[375ph]

I just bought a 375 H&H MAG and not sure if I should put one on it? If I put one on that rifle, do you think anyone would hunt with me? I wonder if I will develop a flinch? I'm only 220 pounds and wonder if I would be able to handle it Maybe I'll trade it for a 25-06 anyone interested?

[Full Curl Earl]

Muzzle brakes make for great follow up shooting. I know lots of guys who say they would never put a brake on a gun, then they shoot one and wonder why they waited so long. Sure they are louder unfortunately, but the drastic recoil reduction has to have some cost associated. Brakes have been around for a very long time, are safe and have no negative impact on accuracy, if someone says otherwise, the Smith did something wrong.

[JD848]

I had two put on a couple rifles ,this was about 6 years ago and if i can remeber the name was holland muzle break, i can tell you this was avery good muzzle break,port holls angle on the side to take the muzzle blast away from you and no holes on bottom of break to through dust or di rt in your face .thier maybe better ones out thier but this muzzle break sure tamed them ultra mags bye a lest 45 percent or more. Good luck ,and check them out'

[trooper]

Just had surgery on my right shoulder, June 7th. I was at Genesse with a friend of mine last week who did the work on my rifle (zeroing a load). I figured I'd give it a go. My rifle has a respectable weight, a Savage M10 TR. The .308 155 gn AMAX round was pushed with 43 gns of Varget. I fired 5 rounds. I couldn't handle any more as the shoulder pain was almost unbearable. Normaly I would not need one, but under the circumstances, a muzzle break seems to be my only option. It's that or give up shooting.

[double gun]

Originally Posted by trooper

Just had surgery on my right shoulder, June 7th. I was at Genesse with a friend of mine last week who did the work on my rifle (zeroing a load). I figured I'd give it a go. My rifle has a respectable weight, a Savage M10 TR. The .308 155 gn AMAX round was pushed with 43 gns of Varget. I fired 5 rounds. I couldn't handle any more as the shoulder pain was almost unbearable. Normaly I would not need one, but under the circumstances, a muzzle break seems to be my only option. It's that or give up shooting.

Then go for it. Just take precautions when shooting it (ear protection). They do work amazingly well.

[BackPackHunter]

I love how everyone knows what you need
I have a brake on my mag. Not because of the kick but after 20 rounds then it starts getting sore, I only use the brake at the range.
Thread protecter goes on anytime I'm in the field

I for one am not at the range to make friends
But me liking as many people as I do , I built a private range