BSA CF2 Gunsmithing and other questions

[BANG]

I have a bsa cf2 in 30-06 i have hunted with for longer then i care to remember it has been a excellent rifle but is starting to show its miles so i plan on ordering a new stock and getting it reblued at the very least.
I have been toying with the idea of getting it rebarreled in 338-06 and from what i understand if i do that i should get the action trued while its there.
Also does anyone make a aftermarket trigger for these?
I have no idea what these different services cost if anyone could provide a rough ballpark it would be appreciated.

If there are any cf2 nerds this rifle has a couple unique features that my limited research has not answered.There are no iron sights on this rifle but from what i have read they came with them?
It has two 1/2 inch long slits side by side on top of the barrel at the muzzle and 1/2 inch behind those it has two 1/4 inch slits on the sides's of the barrel.I can find no reference to this as a factory option.
If its a reducer it is not very effective.Perhaps intended to decrease muzzle jump?
These are underrated rifles if you ever have a chance to grab one.

Thank you for any info or insight's

[catnthehat]

The slits on your CF2 is in fact a factory muzzle brake.
I don't know if I would re-chamber it to 338/06 myself, but it's not my rifle either.
Cat

[BANG]

Thanks cat thats interesting.The only bsa reducers i have found info on have had 6-7 slits down the sides of the muzzle.

[catnthehat]

Originally Posted by BANG

Thanks cat thats interesting.The only bsa reducers i have found info on have had 6-7 slits down the sides of the muzzle.

I could possibly be an aftermarket deal like Magnaporting, but I don't think so.
I'll check tonight in my books when I get a chance.
Cat

[David Henry]

Restocking the CF2, parts for these rifles are scarce as hens teeth over here, you mentioned a new stock? The only luck I have had short of custom wood is a company in Birmingham , England. I believe they have moved since I last ordered parts but they go by. "John Knibbs International" a google search will turn something up. Good luck. Regards David Henry.

[Johnson4]

hey i was just wondering if you guys know anything about glass bedding. I bought a new over priced stock for my 300wsm browning a bolt. the stock is fitted but I'm told i should glass bed the thing. so i bought a kit and its telling me i gotta cut parts of the stock out and I'm not sure if this is something i wanna try on my own or if this is something a gunsmith would do. i just don't wanna wreck the stock

[gitrdun]

Originally Posted by Johnson4

hey i was just wondering if you guys know anything about glass bedding. I bought a new over priced stock for my 300wsm browning a bolt. the stock is fitted but I'm told i should glass bed the thing. so i bought a kit and its telling me i gotta cut parts of the stock out and I'm not sure if this is something i wanna try on my own or if this is something a gunsmith would do. i just don't wanna wreck the stock

If you have no experience with it, yes get someone in the know otherwise you could make a mess of it. Glass bedding is a term that comes back to the days of Brownells Acraglass. Since those days, better epoxies have been used, not only because of their compressive strength, but also due to their ease of application. Of course you will have to cut parts, most of it being in the recoil lug area, the front and rear of the action screws. This could be a wood or plastic or fiberglass stock. You have to remove parent material to allow for a deep enough layer of bedding material. Myself, I also drill angle holes in the parent material (especially plastics) to allow the bedding material to "anchor" itself. Bedding isn't as easy as just laying goo in the receiver. You must also ensure a good layer of a proper release agent and blocking inlays to make sure that you don't have a mechanical lock up when you pull the action out of the stock once the goo has cured.

Pillaring is another topic. Some say that if you pillar, you need not bed. Others say that if you bed, you need not pillar. I do both. Pillaring ensures that the action screws will not impart a stress thru the material (the stock) that could change due to humidity and temperature. Pillaring before bedding also also me the determine where I want the barrel to lay within the barrel channel. Basically leaves me in control of where I want the action and barrel to rest.

Where do I get this stuff from? I am a gold shield journeyman millwright since 1982. My carreer has been spent on high speed turbo machinery. By that I mean the overhaul and installation of gas fired turbines that run anywhere between 13,000 to 60,000 RPM. That type of installation requires precision. When I installed those bad boys, my job is to insure stability from the ground up to the center of the shaft center-line. Whatever happens above the shaft center line comes into piping expansion etc.

Bedding a rifled action is much the same. Provide a steady and sturdy base on which the action can reside without undue effect due to the likes of recoil, temperature changes etc, then you're on to a precision shooting machine.

[BANG]

Originally Posted by David Henry

Restocking the CF2, parts for these rifles are scarce as hens teeth over here, you mentioned a new stock? The only luck I have had short of custom wood is a company in Birmingham , England. I believe they have moved since I last ordered parts but they go by. "John Knibbs International" a google search will turn something up. Good luck. Regards David Henry.

Thanks dave that company looks like a great resource.
The numrich site also claims to have stocks for these

[Johnson4]

Originally Posted by gitrdun

If you have no experience with it, yes get someone in the know otherwise you could make a mess of it. Glass bedding is a term that comes back to the days of Brownells Acraglass. Since those days, better epoxies have been used, not only because of their compressive strength, but also due to their ease of application. Of course you will have to cut parts, most of it being in the recoil lug area, the front and rear of the action screws. This could be a wood or plastic or fiberglass stock. You have to remove parent material to allow for a deep enough layer of bedding material. Myself, I also drill angle holes in the parent material (especially plastics) to allow the bedding material to "anchor" itself. Bedding isn't as easy as just laying goo in the receiver. You must also ensure a good layer of a proper release agent and blocking inlays to make sure that you don't have a mechanical lock up when you pull the action out of the stock once the goo has cured.

Pillaring is another topic. Some say that if you pillar, you need not bed. Others say that if you bed, you need not pillar. I do both. Pillaring ensures that the action screws will not impart a stress thru the material (the stock) that could change due to humidity and temperature. Pillaring before bedding also also me the determine where I want the barrel to lay within the barrel channel. Basically leaves me in control of where I want the action and barrel to rest.

Where do I get this stuff from? I am a gold shield journeyman millwright since 1982. My carreer has been spent on high speed turbo machinery. By that I mean the overhaul and installation of gas fired turbines that run anywhere between 13,000 to 60,000 RPM. That type of installation requires precision. When I installed those bad boys, my job is to insure stability from the ground up to the center of the shaft center-line. Whatever happens above the shaft center line comes into piping expansion etc.

Bedding a rifled action is much the same. Provide a steady and sturdy base on which the action can reside without undue effect due to the likes of recoil, temperature changes etc, then you're on to a precision shooting machine.

Holy man that sounds like a pretty interesting job. Thank you for the advice. looks like i might just have suck it up and take it in and wait for someone that knows what they're doing to get it done

[nitro-express]

I became the owner of a somewhat neglected BSA CF2. I stripped the finish and used Tru-Oil. I pillar bedded the rear of the action, sleeved the screw. I also added 2 crossbolts to help keep it together. I did a sharpen job on the checkering, it was worn and lots of polyurethane in the grooves. I also trimmed a bit off the end of the barrel and did an 11 deg crown.

Larry Potterfield has some videos on doing gun work, I find them informative.

Great write-up on bedding, not a job for cowards, things can go very wrong if you screw up.

I've shot mine with some 208 gr ELD match bullets, hits out to 300 yards are rather routine. We have a 10 inch gong set up at 300 yards, for some fun time after sighting in. Mine shoots just a whisker over 1 moa at 200. It probably shoots a bit better than that, but not with me behind the trigger.

I assume your project is done, love to see some pictures.