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  #1  
Old 02-10-2013, 03:38 AM
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Hotwheels81 Hotwheels81 is offline
 
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Default Step by step reloading for beginners




Midnight Saturday, just got home from a long shift at work and decided to do a little hand loading demonstration.





To start with, set up a full length sizing die in the press following the manufacturers instructions.





Our next step is to lubricate the cases, you can use just about anything for a lubricant, just remember that whatever you use must be able to be cleaned off. My personal preference is Imperial sizing die wax but for large batches on our progressive we use a non stick cooking spray for economy purposes.





Now all we do is run the brass into the full length sizing die until the shell holder bottoms out on the die, then pause for a second and lower the ram to remove your freshly sized case.





After you full length resize your brass for the first time it will probably need to be trimmed. Consult a loading manual to find out what the maximum trim length for your specific brass is.


In this case we are reloading 308 Winchester in once fired federal brass. Our maximum length for the case is 2.015". While most of our brass is very close to that size, some of it is in excess of .030" which is dangerously long that need to be trimmed so that every piece of brass is a consistent length.





I use a Lee trimmer that can be attached to a drill. They are very simple and inexpensive but only trim to one pre set length.





So there we have it, most of the Lee trimmers that I have used will trim your bras from .005" to .010" under the maximum trim length. I have used other trimmers that are adjustable and some brass was trimmed a little bit too short but as long as its no more than roughly .020" under what the book says I don't think it would ever be a problem to shoot.





So now that our brass has been resized and trimmed to length we will chamfer the inside and outside of the case. What I am doing in this batch of reloads is working up a hunting load for this coming fall season for my savage 308. The load I want to try is 180 grain bullet over a Winchester large rifle primer and Varget powder.


My manual says the starting load is 41 grains of powder and the maximum load is 45 grains with a minimum overall length of 2.800", now that I have chosen my load I will prime my cases and get my scale setup

*Warning*
USE THE STARTING LOAD AND WORK UP






When you prime your brass you should watch for primers that push in with little to no effort, that is a sign of a worn primer pocket and it makes the brass unsafe to shoot. You should flatten the brass with the worn primer pockets and discard.





It is extremely important to zero your scale every single time you start a new batch. Once your scale is set up and zeroed it should not be moved until you are finished.






Starting from zero we follow the instructions to set the scale for our desired weight, once I dial that in I set my powder thrower to throw a charge just under my goal and use my Lyman trickler to get the charge weight perfect on the scale, you don't need a trickler, I use a spoon more often then anything else but it makes for a pretty picture!

Once we have our charge measured its time to dump it into a primed case and setup our bullet seating die, you can practice on empty unprimed but resized cases to get the OAL correct and keep one as a dummy round to setup the die next time but once you have done this a few hundred times you get a pretty good feel for making small adjustments until its where you want it.




And there we have it, fresh off the press hand loaded test round #1




A word on Over All Length

Bullet length varies, I have never found a batch of Sierra Hornady or Berger bullets that were the same length consistently, but that's ok...

Bullets aren't seated into the case by there tip, they are pushed into the case mouth on the area close to where the bullet tapers out to its true maximum diameter, to measure that accurately you need a tool that measures from that point to the base of the case and such tools are available but I won't get into that at this point.....

For the average Joe or Jane who wants to get into loading there own ammo I suggest you use the OAL listed in the book, setup your seating die and measure the first round so it's close to perfect and just run with it, as long as your OAL doesn't exceed .020" and keep growing then chances are all your seeing is a variation or imperfection in the very tip of the bullet.


This is meant to be a step by step for the novice reloader, if you have questions please ask and I will do my best to answer... If I get a positive response I will go more in depth into things such as die setup for various different effects and maybe even a step by step for precision reloading.
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Old 02-10-2013, 07:54 AM
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reloading is something i am very interested in .. thanks for taking the time to put this thread and all the pictures together.

wayne
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:20 AM
foxhunter540 foxhunter540 is offline
 
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nice job bud this sure will help alot of beginners cheers
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:27 AM
Jeremy403 Jeremy403 is offline
 
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Default Lee trimmer

Nice job just getting into reloading. Could you tell us more about the lee trimmer sounds like I will need one.Thanks
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy403 View Post
Nice job just getting into reloading. Could you tell us more about the lee trimmer sounds like I will need one.Thanks
They work great. I use them all the time. Like the OP stated they only trim to one size but they are super fast and pretty accurate. They cost about $6 for the pilot and $15 or so for the holder and the mill. But once you have the holder and mill you only need to buy a new pilot to trim a new caliber.
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy403 View Post
Nice job just getting into reloading. Could you tell us more about the lee trimmer sounds like I will need one.Thanks
Lee trimmers are all chambering specific. So you will need one for each type you reload for....very easy to use and usually around $8 for each individual one.

**edit....posted same time as ShawnM

LC
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:03 AM
elkhunter11 elkhunter11 is offline
 
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Just to add a few points:

-Not all loads listed in all manuals will be safe in all rifles. That is why you start at the minimum load, and work up.

-It is very important to learn to recognize pressure signs. Pressure signs can be seen in several forms, from heavy bolt lift after firing, to extrusion marks on the case head,to excessive case head expansion, to loose primer pockets after only a few loads. I recommend that a new loader does some research online, to find more information on identifying pressure signs. If you notice pressure signs, stop shooting, until you deal with the pressure issue.

-Those loose primer pockets are not worn primer pockets, they are stretched primer pockets. If you encounter loose primer pockets after only a few loadings, your loads are too hot.

-Be sure to avoid lube on the shoulder of the case, as lube on the shoulder will cause dents in your cases. If you are seeing dents in the shoulders, clean your sizing die.

-Be sure to learn how to adjust your seating die properly. A properly adjusted seating die will not contact the shoulder of a sized case. Adjusting the seating die incorrectly will push back the shoulder, and possibly bell it, so the rounds won't chamber.

-The COL can be very important as far as obtaining the best accuracy from a firearm, and the COL listed in the manuals will seldom provide the best accuracy in your firearm. The best COL for your firearm,can only be determined with your firearm.

-The velocities, and supposed "most accurate load" listed in a manual, are for that specific firearm, and those specific lots of components, and they can vary significantly in your firearm.

-When you change any component, back off the powder charge, and work up the load again.

-Loads that are perfectly safe in cool temperatures, can cause excessive pressures in warm temperatures.

-Since pressure signs don't usually appear until you are well past the normal operating pressure for the cartridge, I like to back off the powder charge until they disappear completely, and then back off a little more.
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Last edited by elkhunter11; 02-10-2013 at 10:21 AM.
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Old 02-10-2013, 11:26 AM
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here are some common pressure signs i think i found on this forum a little while back!

-Case bulging, particularly near an unsupported part of the head.
-Case crack along side (may mean excess pressure, but may mean brittle, defective, draw mark scored, or worn out brass).
-Case head expansion (CHE; may mean high pressure, may mean nothing in isolated case).
-Case head separation (may mean high pressure, but may mean excess headspace or worn out brass).
-Case splits in body in fewer than 10 reloads-back loads down at least 2% (can also be due to ammonia vapor exposure or a brass defect in an individual case).
-Case mouth split (may mean high pressure, but more often means case needed neck annealing).
-Case pressure ring expansion (PRE; not much more reliable than case head expansion but may mean pressure is excessive).
-Case primer pockets getting loose in five reloads or fewer.
-Case, excessive stretching (this is actually visible pressure ring area stretching which may be due to excess pressure or to excess headspace).
-Case, extractor or ejector marks on head, especially after increasing powder charge. Most common in semi-auto rifles, but can happen with any extractor and ejector (may be high pressure or bad timing, or an extractor standing proud on the bolt face).
-Case, won’t fit back into chamber after firing.
-Gas leak (see Primer Leaking, below).
-Groups start to open up at or beyond a suspected maximum load pressure.
-Hard bolt lift.
-Incipient case head separation (starting or partial case head separation or signs of it).
-Increase in powder charge gets unexpected velocity. Look for an orderly progression of muzzle velocity vs. charge weight. If muzzle velocity stops going up or actually goes down, or if it goes up too much, you have a problem. The first two indicate steel is stretching. The stretch may just be due to uneven bolt lug contact, or it may mean you are stretching the receiver and fatiguing the steel abnormally. Unexpected velocity increase indicates unexpected pressure increase. With any abnormal velocity, you should back the charge off 5% from where it started. If, based on manuals, the load and its velocity seem too low for this to be happening, get your gun inspected or bolt lugs lapped and try working up the load again.
-Primer blown (primer falls out when gun is opened; same as loose primer pocket).
-Primer cratering (may mean high pressure, or it may mean a worn firing pin or firing pin tunnel, or may mean you have a new production Remington bolt with chamfered firing pin tunnel).
-Primer flattening (may mean high pressure, or may mean long headspace; some loads always make flat primers; softer primer cups (Federal) flatten more easily than harder ones (CCI), so it also can mean nothing at all).
-Primer, mushrooming (may mean high pressure, or may mean long headspace).
-Primer, piercing (may mean high pressure or may mean incorrect firing pin protrusion or incorrect firing pin nose shape).
-Primer, leaking gas around primer pocket (may mean high pressure, may mean loose primer pocket in case, may mean damaged primer was inserted, may mean primer backed out too far during firing, which excessive chamber headspace makes possible).
-Case, short life -back load off at least 2% (under 10 reloads in non-self-loaders or with military brass in self-loaders, 6 or less in self-loaders with commercial brass).
-Case, sticky or hard extraction (especially in revolvers this is a positive sign to knock the powder charge down at least 5%, in rifles also look for chamber ringing).
-Case, torn or bent rim (from hard extraction, see #24., above).
-Case, primer pocket expanded and won't hold newly seated primers firmly (PPE; this is likely no more accurate than CHE (3., above), but is a more sensitive measure for those with tools that can measure the inside diameter of a primer pocket repeatably to the nearest ten-thousandth of an inch).
-Primer, loose or falls out when opening the action or after (see # 26., above)
-Case, increase in required trimming frequency (this is an sudden increase in case length growth per load cycle, it can be caused by excess pressure, but can also be a sign of increasing head space due to some other problem. It is especially common as a pressure sign in lever action guns because the greater span from bolt face to rear lug allows more steel stretch when pressure gets excessive.)
-Case, increase in apparent headspace (this means the cases are coming out longer, including from casehead to shoulder. It can mean bolt lug setback, which is usually an extreme pressure sign. It can also mean a loose barrel or an improperly set Savage barrel. Whatever the cause, the gun should go straight to the gunsmith for inspection.)
-Gas or Flame Cutting of revolver top strap. (Can also be due to excessive barrel/cylinder gap that needs correction.)
-Gas or Flame cutting of rifle bolt face by gas leaks around primer pocket or of bolt face perimeter. (Can also be result of occasional leaks from normal rounds firing, as is observed in many military gun bolts.)
-Velocity higher than manual maximum load velocity for same powder and barrel length. For example: one fellow using a .243 Win load one charge increment below the manual maximum got velocity 200 fps higher than the manual claimed for its maximum load's velocity. His single-shot action was popping open at every shot. With QuickLOAD we were able to calculate he had about 77,000 psi. An alternate explanation, if everything else is normal, is that your chronograph readings are incorrect. It is not uncommon to get high readings due to muzzle blast when the chronograph is too close to the gun. I recommend 15 feet minimum, since that is what the manual authors typically use and is what you are comparing to. Some big magnum rifles need even more distance.
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Old 06-28-2017, 07:41 AM
MiniFireArms MiniFireArms is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elkhunter11 View Post
Just to add a few points:
.
Thank you for this adding! When I tried to load cartridges myself at the first time, I, probably, made a half of these mistakes. Other readers will not
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  #10  
Old 02-07-2016, 07:20 PM
Butch1911 Butch1911 is offline
 
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Yes very much ,thanks
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Old 02-11-2016, 07:00 PM
wolfriver wolfriver is offline
 
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Great thread, thanks
Any dies or other equipment to stay away from?
Manufacturers etc
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  #12  
Old 04-29-2013, 05:38 PM
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Thanks for this thread HotWheels81 and others. I am thinking of getting into reloading and you all answered alot of my questions. Would be great if a few more people that reload could do something like this.

Cheers
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  #13  
Old 04-29-2013, 06:10 PM
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I have general found 2 powder levels to be accurate. One is usually near your start point and one is near your max. Like another AOP said. Use the lower charge amounts. Saves powder, brass and rifle life. Great thread!!
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Old 05-25-2013, 01:26 PM
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awesome step by step! thank you for making this/.
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Old 08-13-2013, 12:53 AM
10brassintheair 10brassintheair is offline
 
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Default Cast Bullet Ridges Visible Through Brass

After reloading some cast bullets for my peacemaker I noticed I could clearly see the bullets rims under the brass...is it just that Rem. brass is thin? Also Has anyone got some first hand load data for a 357mag cases loaded with trail boss for low velocity rounds....its hard to find the info on it. I bought a chronograph to check my test loads but they wont let me set it up in the indoor ranges
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Old 08-14-2013, 11:51 AM
32-40win 32-40win is offline
 
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I would expect that what you see, is an oversize bullet forced into a normal sized case for a jacketed bullet, it will expand the neck/case to the base of the bullet, and you will see a line at the base. There is some Trailboss data for 357 on Hodgdon website. A search for other data shows a lot of Trailboss info on 357. Main thing with it is, do not compress that powder in it.
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Old 11-27-2013, 10:16 AM
bdurnin bdurnin is offline
 
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Very informative. Thanks.
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Old 12-21-2013, 02:57 AM
Christiano Martin Christiano Martin is offline
 
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Default This is awesome

Wow..just loved this article. This is beautiful. Keep it up mate. And a big thanks for this
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Old 01-05-2014, 07:29 PM
stemorholake stemorholake is offline
 
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Thanx man....very informative
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Old 04-22-2014, 06:02 PM
kwilliam kwilliam is offline
 
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Nicely done. Its always nice to see a logical progression
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Old 07-22-2014, 02:35 AM
bulesy1 bulesy1 is offline
 
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Smile thanks for the step by step procedure

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotwheels81 View Post



Midnight Saturday, just got home from a long shift at work and decided to do a little hand loading demonstration.





To start with, set up a full length sizing die in the press following the manufacturers instructions.





Our next step is to lubricate the cases, you can use just about anything for a lubricant, just remember that whatever you use must be able to be cleaned off. My personal preference is Imperial sizing die wax but for large batches on our progressive we use a non stick cooking spray for economy purposes.





Now all we do is run the brass into the full length sizing die until the shell holder bottoms out on the die, then pause for a second and lower the ram to remove your freshly sized case.





After you full length resize your brass for the first time it will probably need to be trimmed. Consult a loading manual to find out what the maximum trim length for your specific brass is.


In this case we are reloading 308 Winchester in once fired federal brass. Our maximum length for the case is 2.015". While most of our brass is very close to that size, some of it is in excess of .030" which is dangerously long that need to be trimmed so that every piece of brass is a consistent length.





I use a Lee trimmer that can be attached to a drill. They are very simple and inexpensive but only trim to one pre set length.





So there we have it, most of the Lee trimmers that I have used will trim your bras from .005" to .010" under the maximum trim length. I have used other trimmers that are adjustable and some brass was trimmed a little bit too short but as long as its no more than roughly .020" under what the book says I don't think it would ever be a problem to shoot.





So now that our brass has been resized and trimmed to length we will chamfer the inside and outside of the case. What I am doing in this batch of reloads is working up a hunting load for this coming fall season for my savage 308. The load I want to try is 180 grain bullet over a Winchester large rifle primer and Varget powder.


My manual says the starting load is 41 grains of powder and the maximum load is 45 grains with a minimum overall length of 2.800", now that I have chosen my load I will prime my cases and get my scale setup

*Warning*
USE THE STARTING LOAD AND WORK UP






When you prime your brass you should watch for primers that push in with little to no effort, that is a sign of a worn primer pocket and it makes the brass unsafe to shoot. You should flatten the brass with the worn primer pockets and discard.





It is extremely important to zero your scale every single time you start a new batch. Once your scale is set up and zeroed it should not be moved until you are finished.






Starting from zero we follow the instructions to set the scale for our desired weight, once I dial that in I set my powder thrower to throw a charge just under my goal and use my Lyman trickler to get the charge weight perfect on the scale, you don't need a trickler, I use a spoon more often then anything else but it makes for a pretty picture!

Once we have our charge measured its time to dump it into a primed case and setup our bullet seating die, you can practice on empty unprimed but resized cases to get the OAL correct and keep one as a dummy round to setup the die next time but once you have done this a few hundred times you get a pretty good feel for making small adjustments until its where you want it.




And there we have it, fresh off the press hand loaded test round #1




A word on Over All Length

Bullet length varies, I have never found a batch of Sierra Hornady or Berger bullets that were the same length consistently, but that's ok...

Bullets aren't seated into the case by there tip, they are pushed into the case mouth on the area close to where the bullet tapers out to its true maximum diameter, to measure that accurately you need a tool that measures from that point to the base of the case and such tools are available but I won't get into that at this point.....

For the average Joe or Jane who wants to get into loading there own ammo I suggest you use the OAL listed in the book, setup your seating die and measure the first round so it's close to perfect and just run with it, as long as your OAL doesn't exceed .020" and keep growing then chances are all your seeing is a variation or imperfection in the very tip of the bullet.


This is meant to be a step by step for the novice reloader, if you have questions please ask and I will do my best to answer... If I get a positive response I will go more in depth into things such as die setup for various different effects and maybe even a step by step for precision reloading.
Hey! thanks for the step by step procedure...This makes me more informative on understand guns and ammo...
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  #22  
Old 08-04-2014, 07:04 PM
archangel archangel is offline
 
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Default Reloading

Great thread! Thank you.
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  #23  
Old 08-06-2014, 07:01 AM
bulesy1 bulesy1 is offline
 
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Learning a lot from these
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  #24  
Old 08-12-2014, 02:02 AM
bulesy1 bulesy1 is offline
 
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After going through the step by step procedure... I am thinking to buy one for myself...
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Old 08-25-2014, 08:00 AM
bulesy1 bulesy1 is offline
 
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learnt lot of things from this procedure... I think I am 40% good enough in this.
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Old 12-14-2015, 04:29 PM
steamer45 steamer45 is offline
 
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What is the best way to figure out your coal for each rifle. Do you figure out where your lands are and start from there?
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  #27  
Old 12-18-2015, 10:28 AM
RolHammer RolHammer is offline
 
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Default Question about choosing donor brass

Still debating whether I want to get into reloading. But, at this early stage to at least be making sensible decisions about choosing and ammo.

It doesn't seem like my rifle is overly fussy (or just that the shooter's limitations are larger than the effect of the rifle not liking any particular ammo ), so I thought I would ask if there were manufactured ammo choices that were better than others for donor brass for reloading. Or is it just simply a case of making sure the case is actually brass and also not berger primed?
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  #28  
Old 12-18-2015, 10:34 AM
elkhunter11 elkhunter11 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RolHammer View Post
Still debating whether I want to get into reloading. But, at this early stage to at least be making sensible decisions about choosing and ammo.

It doesn't seem like my rifle is overly fussy (or just that the shooter's limitations are larger than the effect of the rifle not liking any particular ammo ), so I thought I would ask if there were manufactured ammo choices that were better than others for donor brass for reloading. Or is it just simply a case of making sure the case is actually brass and also not berger primed?
The most important thing, is using the same brand, to keep the brass as consistent as possible. I am not a fan of Federal brass, and recent Winchester brass is not of the same quality as it used to be, so if I was taking reloading into consideration when I chose my factory loads, I would likely lean towards Remington, Nosler, or Hornady.
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Old 01-13-2016, 08:35 AM
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Default Pressure signs video, indicators to look for.

One question that always comes up is how much is to much pressure. This short video explains in detail what to look for when working up a load.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=orJdUR_X67M
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Old 01-14-2016, 01:16 PM
32-40win 32-40win is offline
 
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Need to be a bit careful about the Ammosmith vid there, it is a valid illustration of a few problems, but is also a bit misleading in that he is incorrectly identifying some problems as being high pressure, that are not.
Expanded primer pocket illustrations are good, web expansion is not really explained well, needs to measured with a micrometer against a known constant for comparison. The "incipent" (incipient) separation ring can be a pressure issue, but is also an indicator that the brass was sized too short for the chamber, which can also show as flattened primers on the initial loading, long before the ring shows. Needing to trim the brass every 2nd or 3rd load is a sizing or pressure issue sign as well. If it is soft brass, or high pressure, needing to trim often, and primer pocket expansion, and the ring appearing in under 5 loads, show up together. There are articles further back in this sticky that explain these issues in more and better detail.
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