2019 F150 2.7l ecoboost exhaust/cat question?

[20shadow05]

Hi All,

Looking for advice/recommendation. Service engine soon light has gone on in vehicle and has been reset twice by the dealership, indication is that there is an issue with catalytic converter. Get a call this morning from the dealership that both cats need to be replaced and not under warranty anymore as I am over 100K (152,000km right now). Vehicle runs perfectly well, gas mileage is incredible, so no obvious issues.

So, question is, should I simply go to an exhaust/muffler place and have the vehicle straight piped and O2 sensors moved, or? And any recommendations for the work to be done in Edmonton/Sherwood Park/St. Albert?

Am also going to take the vehicle in to my regular mechanic for a second opinion as something doesn't seem right. Any insight would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Mark

[Stinky Buffalo]

When you had it checked out (and the codes reset), did they tell you what codes it was throwing?

[20shadow05]

"PCM codes P0420/0430 CATL below efficiency both banks. Check OASIS TSB 22-2137 PID data CATYL O2 sensors. Both banks indicate CATYL converter failure."

[Homesteader]

You'd think emmisions warranty would be longer, but I guess they aren't. If there is no tsb on this, and it can be done without impacting longevity, performance or fuel economy, I'd definitely consider removal. Not sure if doing it would harm the turbo system. Someone on here knows the answers.

[crazyperch]

replace the O2s and go from there

[Ken07AOVette]

the one time we wish cats were stolen from the driveway lol

If you go to a good muffler shop make sure you get the old ones, will likely pay most of the repair bill at any of the hundred facebook cat dealers

[Stinky Buffalo]

Originally Posted by 20shadow05

"PCM codes P0420/0430 CATL below efficiency both banks. Check OASIS TSB 22-2137 PID data CATYL O2 sensors. Both banks indicate CATYL converter failure."

Have a look at the TSB for this. There is a procedure to perform the Sulfur removal cycle.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...14752-0001.pdf

If you don't have a code reader to clear the codes in step 5, swing by and I can probably do that for you. I'm just not too sure what the test in step 6 entails. From what I gathered from another forum (and I could be wrong here):

Pre-conditioning requirements:

MIL must be off
Time sequence start up 330 seconds
ECT between 170 and 230F
Engine load between 10 and 35%
EGR flow between 1 & 12%
Time since closed loop 30 seconds
IAT between 20 and 180F
MAF between 1.0 and 5.0 lb/min
Fuel level between 15 & 85%

Use your scan tool to check the preconditioning requirements.

Then:

They suggest a 12 minute drive
Drive for 6 minutes at a steady speed between 25 and 45 mph.
Use a different speed steadily between 25 and 45 mph for the next six minutes

[walker1]

Originally Posted by Homesteader

You'd think emmisions warranty would be longer, but I guess they aren't. If there is no tsb on this, and it can be done without impacting longevity, performance or fuel economy, I'd definitely consider removal. Not sure if doing it would harm the turbo system. Someone on here knows the answers.

Yeah the big boy 6.7 diesel has that junk all extended . Ask me how I know?
Actually my 2017 just threw a code for a sensor 2 weeks ago at 74k. It was warranty covered and I did my homework ahead of time but good to not be paying out of pocket,
Best of luck on what repair route you go. Question? If you did not have any major repairs Ford is usually good for helping you out if out of warranty to a degree. Depends on dealer I would guess.

[20shadow05]

Thank you to everyone,

Appreciate the advice and offers of help.

[trigger14]

That tsb listed above most likely will not work. 20 year ford tech here. Catalytic converters rarely just fail due to a deficiency within itself. A few common things to cause these codes and catalytic converter below efficiency is worn spark plugs, bad fuel(at some point) and extended towing. Unfortunately once you get a p0420 or p0430, 99% of the time it too late and they need to be replaced. Also the route cause of their failure needs to be found to prevent repeat failures.

On a side note, dont waste your money on cheap aftermarket converters, your light will come back on shortly after with the same codes as those converters are junk.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Stinky Buffalo]

Originally Posted by trigger14

Catalytic converters rarely just fail due to a deficiency within itself. A few common things to cause these codes and catalytic converter below efficiency is worn spark plugs, bad fuel(at some point) and extended towing.

Would oil overfill be a possible cause as well?

In my 2012 EcoBoost I had the infamous condensor issue - I noticed it when the engine acted up and discovered that the crankcase had filled up with extra fluid of some sort.

[Ken07AOVette]

Originally Posted by Stinky Buffalo

Would oil overfill be a possible cause as well?

In my 2012 EcoBoost I had the infamous condensor issue - I noticed it when the engine acted up and discovered that the crankcase had filled up with extra fluid of some sort.

I bought a 2013 ecopoof and installed a 2017 engine, same thing it started running like crap, checked the oil and it was 6" over full

Buddy with a ford laptop did a reprogram and perfect ever since.

Other than of course the oil will have been replaced with gasoline which is not a real good lubrication. I think I caught it quickly enough, but at 2000rpm for a half an hour on the way home thats a lot of washdown.

[Stinky Buffalo]

Originally Posted by Ken07AOVette

I bought a 2013 ecopoof and installed a 2017 engine, same thing it started running like crap, checked the oil and it was 6" over full

Buddy with a ford laptop did a reprogram and perfect ever since.

Other than of course the oil will have been replaced with gasoline which is not a real good lubrication. I think I caught it quickly enough, but at 2000rpm for a half an hour on the way home thats a lot of washdown.

Yikes! Thankfully in my case I discovered it quickly and drove it right to the nearest Ford dealership. There was a brand new TSB for the issue and it was fixed under warranty (required new Turbos, etc.).