Synthetic winch rope

[antlercarver]

Opinions about or experiences with synthetic winch rope.

[Pixel Shooter]

For what application? Prefer synthetic on my quads and smaller winches. Usually had great luck off Amazon. Easy fix if ever breaks which really haven’t had that issue. Can’t say the same for wire lol. Wire Hard on snowblade.

[urban rednek]

For general use, synthetic winch line is the way to go.
Pros: Lighter, easier to work with, safer/less stored energy than steel cable.

Cons: Needs to be checked and maintained/cleaned more often, has to be protected from abrasion and excessive heat.

If replacing steel cable, be aware that the drum should be smoothed out prior to installing synthetic. Some winches are not suitable for synthetic due to the design of the drum and inner brake; too much heat transfer to the drum causes damage to the inner wraps.
Fairleads, snatchblocks and sheaves must be rated for synthetic, and, not damaged/burred from steel cable abrasion.

ETA- I have the original steel cable on my 12K winch, my buddy has the same winch with synthetic; recoveries are way less work with his.
I have a synthetic line and replacement fairlead ready to go when required.

[amosfella]

I replaced my steel winch cable on the quad with synthetic. No problems. I swap the rope out between summer and winter. I have a short one for the snowblade (which I haven't used this winter), and a long one I use for summer. I also use the long rope to help pull the pump from the well. Makes that job a lot less backbreaking, and cuts the time into a quarter from trying to do it by hand.

[marky_mark]

If you go synthetic make sure you have a sling for trees and a roller fairlead
I learnt that the hard way
Oops

[Positrac]

Depends on the application. On a quad or sxs for sure synthetic over wire rope for all the reasons already mentioned. On a truck it would probably work better too but I still have the original wire rope on the 12,000lb Warn on the front of my 2005 Power Wagon and it’s still in good shape. I wouldn’t go to the expense of taking it off and going synthetic until it’s done, which I don’t see needing to do anytime soon. And I’ve used my winch a lot.

I did have synthetic on a 8,000lb Warn on a Pathfinder years ago. It worked great until I went to use it one day and found out someone cut the hook off and unwrapped all the rope taking the whole thing. Crappy thing to find out when you need it. Pull a wire rope cable tight until the hook is solid in the fairlead and it will always be there when you need it.

[urban rednek]

Originally Posted by marky_mark

If you go synthetic make sure you have a sling for trees and a roller fairlead
I learnt that the hard way
Oops

Anyone who is aware of, and adheres to, the ethics of 'Tread Lightly" is already using a strap/tree saver when winching. *In an emergency*, ya do what you gotta do.
Some roller fairleads are synthetic rated, many are not. The smooth radiused fairleads are generally a safer option for most rigs.

[obsessed1]

I have been wanting to switch to a synthetic line in both my truck and quad winch for a few years...just havent taken the plunge...I solved my cable breaking snow plow issue a few years back and haven't had a broken cable in 3winters now... if anyone is frustrated with constantly breaking thier cable ( as I was) here is my dreampt up fix......straps are better for snow blades than cable....how do I easily convert my cable into a strap.....
Most shops sell a 12' cable w hook for around 12$. I cut my strap to 7' ( didn't think I needed all 12') and sewed a loop on the non hook end.( just fold over and sew it together....doest have to be that strong really) my strap is 7' so pull out 9' of cable and using a small zip tie through the sewn in loop tie it to your cable... now start retracting your cable and strap at the same time making sure the cable is ON TOP of the strap. This action will bind the cable onto the drum....keep retracting trying to always keep the cable centered on the strap. Once your fully retracted you will end up with the strap hook tight to the fair lead and 2' of cable with no tension on it at all ( I put another zip tie around the cable and hook eye to keep things together.. the strap hook goes to your blade and the cable hook goes to tge frame rack( no tension on it at all) as long as you always have a few bound wraps of strap on your drum you will never transfer the tension from the strap to the cable. It literally takes seconds to install and seconds to un install come spring...and no more broken cables...my first strap lasted two winters with no breakages. This winter I noticed it was starting to get cut up and frayed in a few spots from the cable rubbing and cutting....I replaced it with a new strap this year and it's been running without a hitch.

Once you have a few good bound wraps of the strap on the drum all the tension is transferred off the cable and onto the strap. Just make sure you have a good 5-6 full wraps around the drum at all times.

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[EZM]

Originally Posted by obsessed1

I have been wanting to switch to a synthetic line in both my truck and quad winch for a few years...just havent taken the plunge...I solved my cable breaking snow plow issue a few years back and haven't had a broken cable in 3winters now... if anyone is frustrated with constantly breaking thier cable ( as I was) here is my dreampt up fix......straps are better for snow blades than cable....how do I easily convert my cable into a strap.....
Most shops sell a 12' cable w hook for around 12$. I cut my strap to 7' ( didn't think I needed all 12') and sewed a loop on the non hook end.( just fold over and sew it together....doest have to be that strong really) my strap is 7' so pull out 9' of cable and using a small zip tie through the sewn in loop tie it to your cable... now start retracting your cable and strap at the same time making sure the cable is ON TOP of the strap. This action will bind the cable onto the drum....keep retracting trying to always keep the cable centered on the strap. Once your fully retracted you will end up with the strap hook tight to the fair lead and 2' of cable with no tension on it at all ( I put another zip tie around the cable and hook eye to keep things together.. the strap hook goes to your blade and the cable hook goes to tge frame rack( no tension on it at all) as long as you always have a few bound wraps of strap on your drum you will never transfer the tension from the strap to the cable. It literally takes seconds to install and seconds to un install come spring...and no more broken cables...my first strap lasted two winters with no breakages. This winter I noticed it was starting to get cut up and frayed in a few spots from the cable rubbing and cutting....I replaced it with a new strap this year and it's been running without a hitch.

Once you have a few good bound wraps of the strap on the drum all the tension is transferred off the cable and onto the strap. Just make sure you have a good 5-6 full wraps around the drum at all times.

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That is ingenious actually......

[obsessed1]

Originally Posted by EZM

That is ingenious actually......

I have my moments.....often decades apart but I do have my moments lol

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[Dean2]

On the quad I use synthetic cable. For snowplowing I take the 50' cable off and use a ten foot piece of flat nylon strap from an old ratchet tie down. Putting that directly on the drum means far better control of how quickly the blade goes up and down, and it is far easier on the winch. Also doesn't wear the much more expensive 50' one. If I need the 50' piece, it is in the bag on the back rack, I just tie it to the strap, once you get two or three wraps you are good to go.

On the pickup, both my 150' extensions are synthetic. Easier to stow, light, easier to deploy and snatch block with. Main cable is still steel, even though I have a replacement synthetic cable for it. The 9000 LB winch is 25 years old, still running the original steel cable. My 40 year old 8274 still has its original steel cable. I like synthetic but service life will not match steel under heavy use. My new 17,000 Lb on the new truck, is steel, even though the synthetic option was only 200 more..

[Coiloil37]

I’ve used both and prefer synthetic on my vehicle. It’s flexible, light, easy to drag, floats, stronger for the same diameter, no wickers, no memory and no recoil when you break it. The only downside is cost. I ran 140’ of 3/8” amsteel blue on my 8274 and it saw hundreds, possibly thousands of pulls. The only time I snapped it I was winching through a puddle with about 4” of ice on it that I broke through. I got to a point where the water was deep enough that the ice was just about at the top of the tires and I couldn’t get on top of it. It turned into a straight pull and my winch didn’t stall due to a few modifications so it snapped that rope. Unlike cable it didn’t recoil at all, it just fell to the ground. A quick repair to the rope and a couple minutes with the chainsaw to fix the ice and I was back in business.

Learn how to splice it on the trail before you need to use it. Yes you need a burr free drum and hawse although contrary to popular believe you can run a burr free roller fairlead if you want.

This talk about tree savers. Who isn’t using a strap and why wouldn’t you? An treesaver at the 4x4 shop isn’t cheap but an industrial round sling is as cheap as chips. Here a 2m, 3t round sling is $9. That 3t rating is the WLL but they have a 7:1 safety factor so with a 21t breaking strength I never worried about it and never broke one. Throw your steel cable around a tree or two and check the memory you just put into it… no thanks.


Different puddles but two things. First you notice it’s floating and second, I gave mine abuse like this for years and it took it. When required I would spool it into a bucket of hot soapy water and give it a bath but by and large it saw service like this for years without failure.