Field tips and broadheads

[calgarychef]

So I’m mostly a longbow shooter. I had a cheap compound that I killed 2 deer with but I decided I wanted an APA (mostly because it’s more field maintainable).

My Broadheads are hitting about 6” from my field tips..I had the bow paper tuned at Jimbows. Is this common. Is this the reason so many people are using mechanicals? Is 55#’s enough for a mechanical head?

[rem338win]

It needs more tuning.

Look into bareshaft tuning or french tuning.

[SouthWestRanger]

Tuned bows will shoot fixed better, mechanicals are more forgiving on untuned bows.

[KyleSS]

When it was paper tuned, who was shooting it? Was it a Jimbow's staff? If so, I'm guessing that the way your post is written, you dont shoot a whole bunch and your form and shooting technique isn't nearly that of a Jimbows staff. The bow would be paper tuned for a torque less execution.

It could also be weak spined arrows. Under spined arrows will really show their weakness when you put a broadhead on.

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[calgarychef]

Originally Posted by KyleSS

When it was paper tuned, who was shooting it? Was it a Jimbow's staff? If so, I'm guessing that the way your post is written, you dont shoot a whole bunch and your form and shooting technique isn't nearly that of a Jimbows staff. The bow would be paper tuned for a torque less execution.

It could also be weak spined arrows. Under spined arrows will really show their weakness when you put a broadhead on.

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Jim tuned it, and shot it. Then a couple days later I tried Broadheads..2 and 3 blades by the way. All shot high and left (I’m right handed). Then I went to CAC and shot and also chatted with Bryan and he suggests adjusting the sites to the Broadheads...but that of course means shooting field points for practice is out during the hunting season.

I’m shooting about 55# 28” 400 spine arrows with 125 grain tips. And using a Winn relax release.

I know how to tune trad gear very well but compounds are a different breed to me. Maybe I’ll try the French tuning idea a bit.

[KyleSS]

Originally Posted by calgarychef

Jim tuned it, and shot it. Then a couple days later I tried Broadheads..2 and 3 blades by the way. All shot high and left (I’m right handed). Then I went to CAC and shot and also chatted with Bryan and he suggests adjusting the sites to the Broadheads...but that of course means shooting field points for practice is out during the hunting season.



I’m shooting about 55# 28” 400 spine arrows with 125 grain tips. And using a Winn relax release.



I know how to tune trad gear very well but compounds are a different breed to me. Maybe I’ll try the French tuning idea a bit.

Check a spine chart, I'm not sure but those sound weak to me.

Jim also paper tuned my bow, then I shot it and it was tearing. Jim has a near perfect grip and form. I do not haha I then got Jim to help me paper tune it with me shooting.

I'm sure your bow is very close and just needs a couple small rest adjustments.

In the archery section there is a thread call broadhead tuning. It has pictures and a very good explanation.

You may just need to drop to 100 grain heads or go to a stiffer shaft.

I'd start with confirming the spine is correct then look up the broadhead tuning thread.

Broadhead tuning shouldn't take more than an hour. But will be near impossible if you're under spined

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[Kurt505]

I think they recommend at least 60lbs for mechanicals.

[Lefty-Canuck]

60-65KE is for Mechanicals, as recommended by manufacturers. What rest are you using?

A paper tune is a good start, if you want to use fixed blades I recommend a bare shaft tune starting at 10yrds and work your way out to 20. What bow and rest is on your bow? A bare shaft (one with no fletching) will fly and behave like a fletcher shaft with a fixed blade at the front... not sure why but it just does.

When Bare shaft tuning everything is critical... grip, release, cam lean, centershot, all components have to be set perfect. It’s an advanced tuning technique.

If your broad heads are consistently hitting the same place, more your sights so they hit where you aim and realize at this point, there is some work to do. Either on you or your setup.

Broadheads and field points don’t always hit the same place at all distances BTW, it’s just physics... rotational drag and aerodynamics (physics) dictate that they shouldn’t be exactly the same but that’s not to say they can’t be close.

LC

[calgarychef]

Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck

60-65KE is for Mechanicals, as recommended by manufacturers. What rest are you using?

A paper tune is a good start, if you want to use fixed blades I recommend a bare shaft tune starting at 10yrds and work your way out to 20. What bow and rest is on your bow? A bare shaft (one with no fletching) will fly and behave like a fletcher shaft with a fixed blade at the front... not sure why but it just does.

When Bare shaft tuning everything is critical... grip, release, cam lean, centershot, all components have to be set perfect. It’s an advanced tuning technique.

If your broad heads are consistently hitting the same place, more your sights so they hit where you aim and realize at this point, there is some work to do. Either on you or your setup.

Broadheads and field points don’t always hit the same place at all distances BTW, it’s just physics... rotational drag and aerodynamics (physics) dictate that they shouldn’t be exactly the same but that’s not to say they can’t be close.

LC

It’s an APA Mamba 7.5 with their drop away rest.

[Coiloil37]

A paper tune is a very crude tuning technique. It’s a rough start at best, personally I don’t even waste my time with it.

A bare shaft goes exactly where the bow shoots it because it has zero fletching control exerted on it.
A fixed blade broadhead gets steering input from the blades and they can pull the arrow much closer to where the bow was trying to shoot it (much like the bare shaft).
Fletched field tips are controlled by the fletching as they can easily steer the front of the arrow.

I don’t shoot or tune any APA bows so I can’t help with that. Tuning can take much longer then an hour to do properly so get that idea out of your head.

My suggestion if the arrow is shooting high and left is to move your rest down and to the right. Address each issue individually, elevation and windage in seperate adjustments and you’ll be moving your rest a very tiny amount.

What you should find is that your broadhead tipped arrows groups will move much quicker then your fletched shafts and the two groups should start hitting in the same place. If you get to a point where the two groups are not hitting in the same place and they’re both moving in relation to your rest movements you either have a (bow) tune or shooter induced torque issue. Then you’ll have to decide which one it is.
It’s also possible for your elevation issue you need to move the knock point instead of the rest or it could be rest timing but if you don’t know what your doing start with the easy option of moving the rest. A 6” difference at 20 yards might be as little as a 1/64” rest movement.

This is all under the assumption your broadheads are spinning straight on your arrows. Buy or build a spinner and make sure they are because if they’re not you’ll only be wasting your time and chasing your tail.

Your not under spined either.

Any bow shop who thinks a paper tune is the answer to anything or who would suggest to simply sight in for your broadheads doesn’t know what they’re doing.