Ice Fishing Pike Leaders and Trebles

[Off in the Bushes]

So when ice fishing for pike, what do you use a leader?
Wire, Mono, Fluorocarbon, braid, nothing?
When it comes to treble hooks on the bait what size hooks do you use 2/0 - 8.
Do you just pierce the bait, or hook it head and tail. Do you leave the hooks exposed (1 or 2 hooks in the bait) or try to get them all in the bait.
Trying to up my game on the ice.
Does a highly visible leader or hooks matter?

[LUNKDAWGEH]

Originally Posted by Off in the Bushes

So when ice fishing for pike, what do you use a leader?

Wire, Mono, Fluorocarbon, braid, nothing?

When it comes to treble hooks on the bait what size hooks do you use 2/0 - 8.

Do you just pierce the bait, or hook it head and tail. Do you leave the hooks exposed (1 or 2 hooks in the bait) or try to get them all in the bait.

Trying to up my game on the ice.

Does a highly visible leader or hooks matter?

From my experience, all of the above make a big difference depending on water clarity, and fishing pressure.

If they've hardly seen any hooks it hardly matters.

If they've seen it all, they become more wary.

If you want stealth, I'd go a 3ft flourocarbon leaders (40 - 55lb), no snaps or swivels... As for hooks... They will look at them, and "taste" them to see if they get a *****, where they will spit it lightning quick.

Solution here may be hiding the hooks inside the bait as much as possible... Or using a single hook, like a Swedish hook.

Check out these big Pike taking a VERY close look at my rig early this winter.

https://youtu.be/v-Nddtuhvds

Hope that helps.

Cheers.

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[LUNKDAWGEH]

Ughhg I guess it bleeped out p-r-i-c-k lol.

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[Smoky buck]

2/0-4/0 hooks depending on bait size. I use wire if I feel like being lazy and don’t think the pike are picky. If I am being more serious I use fluorocarbon rig I tie up

I am not big on ice fishing or bait fishing so I mostly just do it to kill a little time in the winter. I catch fish but really I am an open water artificial bait fisherman

[HuyFishin]

Originally Posted by Smoky buck

2/0-4/0 hooks depending on bait size. I use wire if I feel like being lazy and don’t think the pike are picky. If I am being more serious I use fluorocarbon rig I tie up

I am not big on ice fishing or bait fishing so I mostly just do it to kill a little time in the winter. I catch fish but really I am an open water artificial bait fisherman

I use the same hooks and wire leaders. I guess I’m lazy as well


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[Smoky buck]

Originally Posted by HuyFishin

I use the same hooks and wire leaders. I guess I’m lazy as well


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I tell my wife I am not lazy I just don’t work harder than I have too

[Off in the Bushes]

Originally Posted by LUNKDAWGEH

From my experience, all of the above make a big difference depending on water clarity, and fishing pressure.

If they've hardly seen any hooks it hardly matters.

If they've seen it all, they become more wary.

If you want stealth, I'd go a 3ft flourocarbon leaders (40 - 55lb), no snaps or swivels... As for hooks... They will look at them, and "taste" them to see if they get a *****, where they will spit it lightning quick.

Solution here may be hiding the hooks inside the bait as much as possible... Or using a single hook, like a Swedish hook.

Check out these big Pike taking a VERY close look at my rig early this winter.

https://youtu.be/v-Nddtuhvds

Hope that helps.

Cheers.

Sent from my motorola one hyper using Tapatalk

Do you think the red hooks help or hinder you chances. Is it meant to show blood or flesh as the fish is injured. Why the horizontal hooking of the bait is that preference or does it have a purpose?
Am I over thinking pike fishing?

[Smoky buck]

Originally Posted by Off in the Bushes

Do you think the red hooks help or hinder you chances. Is it meant to show blood or flesh as the fish is injured. Why the horizontal hooking of the bait is that preference or does it have a purpose?
Am I over thinking pike fishing?

Look into how the water filters out light and effects different colors. Red is the first color to wash out and become grey. In crystal clear water without anything preventing light from penetrating the surface red washes out at 10ft. If light penetration is effected by stained water, waves or ice it happens even shallower

Simply put red hooks are for catching the fishermen’s eyes not the fish. But they do look cool

[Off in the Bushes]

So I googled this and dove a little farther down the rabbit hole. Pike use their lateral line to locate prey movements, but once the are visual on it, they quit using them and rely solely on sight. Their eye have rods and cones similar to our eyes. One it for motion the other is for color. They are more adapt to motion then color. They would not notice details on a hook until they had already eaten it.

[Etownpaul]

Mustad makes a double hook which is essentially 2/3 of a treble hook. I bought a box of 4/0 on Amazon and didn't look at the quantity and ended up with 50 lol.

Besides pike tip ups they are great for bottom fishing rivers with bait since they don't get hung up nearly as often.

I usually go with 3' of 55lb floro leader with the the double hook hidden in a smelt for my tip ups, and occasionally i do well. Other times I'm out fished by my buddy who uses black tip up line with a 3/8oz jig and a minnow wrapped around a 2x4 above the hole.

I'll probably quit fishing if I ever figure everything out lol.

[Sigmet]

What type of camera are you using underwater? That’s a nice sharp image.

[LUNKDAWGEH]

Originally Posted by Off in the Bushes

Do you think the red hooks help or hinder you chances. Is it meant to show blood or flesh as the fish is injured. Why the horizontal hooking of the bait is that preference or does it have a purpose?

Am I over thinking pike fishing?

No such thing as over thinking Pike fishing! Lol, I was fishing 6 fow so I guess the red hooks would still be visible to them. More importantly, the cameramen from Bob Izumi's Fish Eye View, swear that they get a better response from fish using red hooks, likely for the reasons you've mentioned. Looks more natural.

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[LUNKDAWGEH]

Originally Posted by LUNKDAWGEH

No such thing as over thinking Pike fishing! Lol, I was fishing 6 fow so I guess the red hooks would still be visible to them. More importantly, the cameramen from Bob Izumi's Fish Eye View, swear that they get a better response from fish using red hooks, likely for the reasons you've mentioned. Looks more natural.

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Oh, and as for the horizontal presentation, I was trying to make it look natural, but the jury is out on this one. I've heard upside down, pointing straight down, angled at 45 degrees down.... So who knows, I try to experiment a bit with this. I personally like 45 degrees downward but it doesn't always work out that way lol


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[LUNKDAWGEH]

Originally Posted by Sigmet

What type of camera are you using underwater? That’s a nice sharp image.

Aqua-vu HD7i

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[EZM]

I use fluorocarbon to tie up my pike rigs. The advantage of having something much less visible and supple as opposed to a steel leader makes sense to me.

For hooks, if I am using a big bait (like a mackerel) I use big hooks - usually a 8/0 single octopus or circle at the head and a similar sized treble through the body about 2/3 down the bait.

The 8/0 hook sounds huge but really it's roughly 1"to1 1/4" from bend to shank.

With the tip up open to free spool, the pike takes the bait for a walk, eventually stops to turn it heads first and down it goes and this big circle reduces ugly deep throat fatal damage on big pike because the minute it bites down to push the bait down the circle gets him stuck and buttoned up solid.

I've tried singles, tandems, trebles, single/treble combos, and all sorts of things - this seems to be best for reducing deep hook swallows and potential mortality.

[Ribolovac]

Thoughts on the Northland predator rig??? Is 1/0 too big for a 6” herring?

[shawn]

For leaders I prefer mono over wire.

[Smoky buck]

Originally Posted by Ribolovac

Thoughts on the Northland predator rig??? Is 1/0 too big for a 6” herring?

I prefer 2/0 wide gap hooks with herring that size

[CBintheNorth]

Originally Posted by Off in the Bushes

So when ice fishing for pike, what do you use a leader?
Wire, Mono, Fluorocarbon, braid, nothing?
When it comes to treble hooks on the bait what size hooks do you use 2/0 - 8.
Do you just pierce the bait, or hook it head and tail. Do you leave the hooks exposed (1 or 2 hooks in the bait) or try to get them all in the bait.
Trying to up my game on the ice.
Does a highly visible leader or hooks matter?

Are you setting this up on a tip-up, or jigging?

For a still-presentation I use a 3-way swivel with a split ring on 2 sides, each attached to a treble. On the 3rd point of the 3-way I make and attach a 12" steel leader.

I like to use 5-6" herrings. Gut them from butt to neck and then use my knife to find a balanced centre.
From there I have a wire that I use to poke a hole up through the bottom of the herring and fish my leader up through the fishes spine.

Now when you pull up on the leader the 3-way swivel and hooks get sucked up into the body with only 2 hooks of each treble exposed (at the neck and butt) and the leader coming out the top-centre of its back.
If it hangs slightly nose-down, I've found that's best to induce strikes.

I'll try to post a picture later. It's absolutely deadly.

[Coiloil37]

Originally Posted by EZM

I use fluorocarbon to tie up my pike rigs. The advantage of having something much less visible and supple as opposed to a steel leader makes sense to me.

For hooks, if I am using a big bait (like a mackerel) I use big hooks - usually a 8/0 single octopus or circle at the head and a similar sized treble through the body about 2/3 down the bait.

The 8/0 hook sounds huge but really it's roughly 1"to1 1/4" from bend to shank.

With the tip up open to free spool, the pike takes the bait for a walk, eventually stops to turn it heads first and down it goes and this big circle reduces ugly deep throat fatal damage on big pike because the minute it bites down to push the bait down the circle gets him stuck and buttoned up solid.

I've tried singles, tandems, trebles, single/treble combos, and all sorts of things - this seems to be best for reducing deep hook swallows and potential mortality.

Your description has me questioning your logic. If I’m reading the post correctly your suggesting the circle hook sticks the pike when they try and swallow the hook due to the fact it’s to big relative to the size of the fish?
The only way I’ve used a circle (and I use them a lot) is to let them swallow it and let it hook them in the corner of the mouth when it comes back out. Exactly like they were designed.

Best way to reduce mortality would be to dispose of the treble full stop and use a non offset circle hook the same way millions of people use them around the world.

Maybe I misinterpreted your post though.

[trophyhunter]

Originally Posted by CBintheNorth

Are you setting this up on a tip-up, or jigging?

For a still-presentation I use a 3-way swivel with a split ring on 2 sides, each attached to a treble. On the 3rd point of the 3-way I make and attach a 12" steel leader.

I like to use 5-6" herrings. Gut them from butt to neck and then use my knife to find a balanced centre.
From there I have a wire that I use to poke a hole up through the bottom of the herring and fish my leader up through the fishes spine.

Now when you pull up on the leader the 3-way swivel and hooks get sucked up into the body with only 2 hooks of each treble exposed (at the neck and butt) and the leader coming out the top-centre of its back.
If it hangs slightly nose-down, I've found that's best to induce strikes.

I'll try to post a picture later. It's absolutely deadly.

Sounds deadly, I would like to take a look at that.


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[CBintheNorth]

Originally Posted by trophyhunter

Sounds deadly, I would like to take a look at that.


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I use 40# Fluoro for leader material.

Once you cut open the belly just use your knife to balance the bait slightly nose down and make a little slice to mark it.
I use a hunting tag wire ( seem to have a lot of unused ones) to pierce a hole and pull the leader through.

I usually rig a bunch up the night before and then when the bite's on just keep switching them out.

This rig up is for 5" herring. If you use bigger bait you can add more split rings to spread the hooks apart further or if using really big bait, use 2 split rings and a small swivel.

[HuyFishin]

Originally Posted by CBintheNorth

I use 40# Fluoro for leader material.

Once you cut open the belly just use your knife to balance the bait slightly nose down and make a little slice to mark it.
I use a hunting tag wire ( seem to have a lot of unused ones) to pierce a hole and pull the leader through.

I usually rig a bunch up the night before and then when the bite's on just keep switching them out.

This rig up is for 5" herring. If you use bigger bait you can add more split rings to spread the hooks apart further or if using really big bait, use 2 split rings and a small swivel.

This is a really nice way to rig it! i'm not this fancy.

[EZM]

Originally Posted by Coiloil37

Your description has me questioning your logic. If I’m reading the post correctly your suggesting the circle hook sticks the pike when they try and swallow the hook due to the fact it’s to big relative to the size of the fish?
The only way I’ve used a circle (and I use them a lot) is to let them swallow it and let it hook them in the corner of the mouth when it comes back out. Exactly like they were designed.

Best way to reduce mortality would be to dispose of the treble full stop and use a non offset circle hook the same way millions of people use them around the world.

Maybe I misinterpreted your post though.

You may have missed the part where I said the set up is on free spool - which clearly indicates that the circle hooks are being deployed properly (without intervention from me) and it's when the pike itself turns the bait and attempts to swallow it, the hook burys itself in the corner of the mouth - and a wider gap (from a bigger hook) ensures that the hook comes down 90 degrees to from lateral.

A smaller circle may allow it to remain in line with the bottom or top of the mouth on a bigger pike which is a bit more traumatic for them.

I have also used circle hooks, and used these rigs in fresh (and salt water) for many years and have seen that the "bigger" hooks tend to fold over when he bites down causing the hook to penetrate the corner more often as opposed to a smaller circle that may pop out the top of the beak or bottom. So I go as big as possible for this reason.

[sparkster]

I like this discussion. I personally am always trying something and feel like there's a better way. There is some good ideas here.

Question for those using fluorocarbon. I made some up first using 80lb. Was very hard to tie and work with. And found it was way way too buoyant, and kept its curl way too much. Made difficult to get frozen smelt to sink or lay right.

Tried a few with 55lb but still felt like the leader added too much buoyancy, and struggled to get smelt to sink without adding weights... which I don't like to add unnecessary more gear in the line.

Lately just went back to wire.

Anyone else deal with this buoyancy issue or just me ot the line I had? What do you do to weight it down?

[CBintheNorth]

Originally Posted by sparkster

I like this discussion. I personally am always trying something and feel like there's a better way. There is some good ideas here.

Question for those using fluorocarbon. I made some up first using 80lb. Was very hard to tie and work with. And found it was way way too buoyant, and kept its curl way too much. Made difficult to get frozen smelt to sink or lay right.

Tried a few with 55lb but still felt like the leader added too much buoyancy, and struggled to get smelt to sink without adding weights... which I don't like to add unnecessary more gear in the line.

Lately just went back to wire.

Anyone else deal with this buoyancy issue or just me ot the line I had? What do you do to weight it down?

I haven't had the issue with the hardware I run as it's got some weight, but I could see that being a problem.
Even when I would run steel leader material for my pike rigs it would take a long time to get to bottom. It gets better once the herring or smelts thaw and absorb some water.
This will be the first year that I give the 40# a try.

Because it takes so long to get down there I use a Line Marker Button on my braided line.
Nothing worse than having to wait 2-3 minutes for your bait to sink dozens of times per day. With the button set you just drop it in, arm the tip-up, and walk away.

[Andrzej]

Did anybody mention that treble hooks come in different strengths?
Weakest being Regular.
This is whats has happened to 2X strength treble after the fight with 20 LB pike
Now I am using
Mustad Classic 4 Extra Strong Kingfish Treble Hook (Pack of 25)#2 from Amazon.ca I did use 2/0, 3/0 in the past now I think smaller stronger trebles have better-hooking %.

[calgarygringo]

One of the traits of using flouro is that it sinks. Maybe something else going on there. It is a good way to help baits sink better. Hmmmm.

Originally Posted by sparkster

I like this discussion. I personally am always trying something and feel like there's a better way. There is some good ideas here.

Question for those using fluorocarbon. I made some up first using 80lb. Was very hard to tie and work with. And found it was way way too buoyant, and kept its curl way too much. Made difficult to get frozen smelt to sink or lay right.

Tried a few with 55lb but still felt like the leader added too much buoyancy, and struggled to get smelt to sink without adding weights... which I don't like to add unnecessary more gear in the line.

Lately just went back to wire.

Anyone else deal with this buoyancy issue or just me ot the line I had? What do you do to weight it down?

[EZM]

Originally Posted by sparkster

I like this discussion. I personally am always trying something and feel like there's a better way. There is some good ideas here.

Question for those using fluorocarbon. I made some up first using 80lb. Was very hard to tie and work with. And found it was way way too buoyant, and kept its curl way too much. Made difficult to get frozen smelt to sink or lay right.

Tried a few with 55lb but still felt like the leader added too much buoyancy, and struggled to get smelt to sink without adding weights... which I don't like to add unnecessary more gear in the line.

Lately just went back to wire.

Anyone else deal with this buoyancy issue or just me ot the line I had? What do you do to weight it down?

Fluorocarbon isn't buoyant - it sinks - that's not the issue - it's likely the frozen minnow is floating your bait up. Ice floats. The minnow is also full of air - so until it thaws it will float - but your hooks should counteract most of that if they are big enough.

The 80lb is, admittedly, tough to tie up, but can be done with pliers but it's still a little stiff for my liking. I use 40 or 50lb to tie these up usually. It's way easier to work with.

[mlee]

I direct tie 50lb fluoro to whatever braid I have on my reel (40-60lb usually) for general pike leaders with a snap swivel on the end. For quick strike rigs its 80-100lb fluoro with crimps superglue and shrink tube. I won't do wire anymore at all....tried the titanium stuff and it was marginally better but imo fluoro wins in almost every way. No different in summer.