Gun Stock Refinishing

[wolfhunter]

I'm planning on redoing a a stock and forend on my 30-30. Any suggestions on good products to use or any good advice.

Thanks,

[YYC338]

Originally Posted by wolfhunter

I'm planning on redoing a a stock and forend on my 30-30. Any suggestions on good products to use or any good advice.

Thanks,

Have you searched the forum yet? There's plenty of information on here already.

[270person]

I'm about 3/4 through one from the first centre fire rifle I purchased back in the late 70's.

I followed this gentleman's process on Youtube and I can tell you it's very easy and the results are really impressive so far. It's like the wood grain has been woken up. This is a rifle I contemplated selling once the work was completed, but now it's like I've got some time and tender loving care involved and it's going to be really hard for me to part with it.

My stock is black walnut and once I got the laquer stripped started with the oiling/sanding process the tiger striping and other subtleties just started popping.

I chose not to go with true oil because boiled linseed oil is a lot thinner and easier to work with.

If you have any questions after watching the video a time or two feel free to pm me. I also have a whack of stripper left over if you want it. Doesn't take much.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzVdsln29o8

[gitrdun]

^^^ I've seen many of Kurt's YouTube videos and he does do a nice job. However he talks about using a sanding block on curved surfaces which a stock is made up of many. My trick to get nicely and easily sand the curved surfaces is as follows: Take a hack saw and remove the blade. Cut 1" strips of whatever grit on sand paper you plan to use, in a length suitable to fit in the hack saw. Punch a couple of holes in the ends of the sand paper and fit it into the hack saw in place of the blade. Voila, a sand paper strip that will conform to the shapes of the pistol grip, and your hack saw makes a good handle.

[Dean2]

For a finish use Tru Oil. Linseed oil looks nice but if never completely dries and it is NOT waterproof. As far a removing the old finish, try the water soluble organic strippers and then use a good abrasive pad to remove any left over. Sand with 400 grit wet and dry and you are ready to refinish. Tru oil takes about 6 coats. Let it dry 3 to 4 days between coats for best results. I still like American made 0000 steel wool for sanding between coats. You hear lots of stories about bits of wool being left behind and rusting, I have never seen this and I have been finishing stocks for 45 years. Just don't use cheap Chinese steel wool.

Here is a real good 3 part article from Brownelle's on refinishing stocks.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=1...nishing-Part-I

[bobinthesky]

If you do use boiled linseed oil, cut it with thinner to get it to penetrate the wood better. 2/3 thinner to 1 part linseed oil to start with, do about 3 coats then increase the ratio to 50/50 and do about 5 or 6 more coats and buff with a soft cloth in between coats. The first couple of coats need about 24 hours to dry and then increase the time to 3 or 4 days as you get more coats on. The last coat may take a week or more to cure before you can use it.

[mgvande]

Originally Posted by bobinthesky

If you do use boiled linseed oil, cut it with thinner to get it to penetrate the wood better. 2/3 thinner to 1 part linseed oil to start with, do about 3 coats then increase the ratio to 50/50 and do about 5 or 6 more coats and buff with a soft cloth in between coats. The first couple of coats need about 24 hours to dry and then increase the time to 3 or 4 days as you get more coats on. The last coat may take a week or more to cure before you can use it.

I like linseed oil. I use it on all my projects. I cut nonboiled with turpentine and start there. It takes me weeks or months to get a stock finished. I do use it on the gun after the first couple coats. And carry on with it when I don't need the gun. I did my deck and planters with BLO/turp mix and it looks awesome. I just have to do it every 2 yrs.

[gitrdun]

Originally Posted by bobinthesky

If you do use boiled linseed oil, cut it with thinner to get it to penetrate the wood better. 2/3 thinner to 1 part linseed oil to start with, do about 3 coats then increase the ratio to 50/50 and do about 5 or 6 more coats and buff with a soft cloth in between coats. The first couple of coats need about 24 hours to dry and then increase the time to 3 or 4 days as you get more coats on. The last coat may take a week or more to cure before you can use it.

And if you add a bit of spar varnish to that concoction, then you've made it even better.

[bobinthesky]

Originally Posted by gitrdun

And if you add a bit of spar varnish to that concoction, then you've made it even better.

Just don't add the varnish until the last couple of coats or it will seal out the oil from penetrating the wood.

[MartyT]

I have done a few with Tru oil with nice results. Did one with BLO but it seemed like a never ending process. I used Minwax Tung Oil finish on one and it gave a similar result to Tru Oil but I think Tru Oil was nicer and accentuated the wood better.

The last one I used Watco Danish Oil and it turned out real nice. From what I have read it wont protect as well as the tru oil but much better than BLO. It gave a nice oil finish, I will definitely use it again.

[bobinthesky]

What a lot of people don't realize about Danish oil is that it's based on either Tung oil and/or Linseed oil as well as varnishes and other volatile petroleum spirits. A lot of people these days prefer not to work with the harsh chemicals and a respirator or well ventilated room are recommended for application.

[gitrdun]

Originally Posted by bobinthesky

Just don't add the varnish until the last couple of coats or it will seal out the oil from penetrating the wood.

You bet, exactly how I do it. I save the spar varnish for the last 2 coats.