Home security system recommendations

[Joes]

If you read my post on the vehicle theft thread you know my sister had an incident with guys trying to break into her garage. Her husband believes a man’s job is to keep the wife and kids safe and is beating himself up for having a shift job feeling like he’s not doing his job on the home front since this incident. He is adamant that they need a security system. Anybody have any suggestions of a good company to go with or a company he should avoid? Apologies if there is already a thread like this.

[Immigrant]

There are a lot of options for security cameras where you can set different levels of detections like pet/ human / all movement to notify you or whoever you want on the list. I have various cameras around the yard and house to notify before the criminal gets to my house. Then some more motion sensors in my shop and garage to notify my phone. My alarm company pays for itself since I get their monthly payment as a discount on my insurance. But they are pretty much useless. They get a alarm in their system, and then they go down the phone list till someone answers their phone. That can (and have) taken up to 15-20 minutes to get hold of someone….and then they ask “do you want us to phone the police?” By then the criminal is gone.
I have 8 outside and 5 inside cameras (all PoE) and they work pretty good. I think alarm companies are going to go out of business with the new technology available to the average guy. My cameras all work through Apple Home Kit. You can be very creative with that app. Lights, plugs, alarms, locks etc can all be integrated when motion is detected. It takes some time to fine tune it, but it is working great for me. For example you ca. program the following: If driveway motion activated - then turn on outside lights. If outside lights on - then lock all doors.
I also work shift.

[KGB]

If you thinking that cops will respond to the house alarm, you are wrong man. Best case scenario- the sec system operator will send in their patrol car… If they find the signs of B&E- then they might report to police.
If I would be looking at getting a system, I wouldn’t worry about getting it monitored. I would go straight into the theft deterrent- strobe lights outside the house for the night time and a super loud siren for inside and outside. The Neighbours will do the rest… Monitoring is a total waste of money.
Thieves don’t like the attention. When the siren goes off and the lights going crazy- they will run like hell.
This advise was given to me by the active duty RCMP officer.

[Drewski Canuck]

Please go hardwired sensors / cameras. Power over Ethernet means that the camera / sensor will work to - 40 C when the batteries on the WIFI systems are all frozen solid.

It is amazing what can be done these days, but the system has to be hack proof, which WIFI cameras are often lacking. Very hard to defeat a hard wired system short of smashing cameras and motion sensors, but then again you have an alarm.

Drewski

[Duramaximos]

Bumping up this older thread hoping to get a little more feedback from folks.
My current system is out of date so I have an opportunity to walk away from Telus and move to another company or monitor my own system.

Telus is offering their 4G smart system for $27 per month on a 3 year commitment. This includes a smoke sensor, a few door sensors and a few motion sensors. $8 additional per month if you want to add 1 camera.

For those of you that monitor your own systems, are there companies out there that offer a more or less complete package?

Sent from my SM-G990W using Tapatalk

[FishOutOfWater]

I have seen multiple grown men cross the street so they don't have to walk past me & my boy on the sidewalk...

A properly trained "guard dog" will cost you $5,000 to $10,000 though, most of that paying for the training.

[1hogfarmer]

Dog and a Winchester

[Twisted Canuck]

Originally Posted by KGB

If you thinking that cops will respond to the house alarm, you are wrong man. Best case scenario- the sec system operator will send in their patrol car… If they find the signs of B&E- then they might report to police.
If I would be looking at getting a system, I wouldn’t worry about getting it monitored. I would go straight into the theft deterrent- strobe lights outside the house for the night time and a super loud siren for inside and outside. The Neighbours will do the rest… Monitoring is a total waste of money.
Thieves don’t like the attention. When the siren goes off and the lights going crazy- they will run like hell.
This advise was given to me by the active duty RCMP officer.

If the discount on your home insurance rate is equal to the cost of monitoring, how is that a waste of money? Just curious.

[huntinstuff]

Allow me to insert some experience here

Alarm systems and such are best monitored by YOU.

The #1 rule of home security is DO IT YOURSELF.

Here is why:

Someone, who you dont know, has access to your system. Your override password. Your camera system. Your locks. Think about that. Think harder about that.

Set it up to best protect your family. A cctv system is for police followup. Perimeter lights, entry security and locked doors are your "security" features. An internal alarm to wake you up. Cameras are for cops or unless you are gonna post pics and hunt the maggot down yourself.....

Crime Prevention thru Environmental Design.

If you knew how many "security" experts, installers and monitor people that are charged yearly, you would puke.

YOU are your best security person. Period.

Set it up yourself. Decide what you need. It is not hard. And when you are done, shut up about it. It's a topic you do not discuss with anyone because loose lips sink ships.

[Twisted Canuck]

What he said ^

[Jims83cj5]

Just get the signs, it’s all you need, if someone breaks in after they see the signs they don’t care about the alarm system.

[-JR-]

Originally Posted by KGB

If you thinking that cops will respond to the house alarm, you are wrong man. Best case scenario- the sec system operator will send in their patrol car… If they find the signs of B&E- then they might report to police.
If I would be looking at getting a system, I wouldn’t worry about getting it monitored. I would go straight into the theft deterrent- strobe lights outside the house for the night time and a super loud siren for inside and outside. The Neighbours will do the rest… Monitoring is a total waste of money.
Thieves don’t like the attention. When the siren goes off and the lights going crazy- they will run like hell.
This advise was given to me by the active duty RCMP officer.

2 x I could not have said it better

[-JR-]

Originally Posted by Twisted Canuck

If the discount on your home insurance rate is equal to the cost of monitoring, how is that a waste of money? Just curious.

I don't think they are going to discount you $1200 a year ?

[Twisted Canuck]

Originally Posted by -JR-

I don't think they are going to discount you $1200 a year ?

Probably not. But most yearly monitoring is likely more in the $400-500 range. And some insurance companies will discount that.

Not that I'm suggesting monitored service is the way to go. I just didn't see that it's a waste of money as was suggested, if your insurance discounts you the equivalent.

I like huntinstuff's advice best.

[Landshark]

First things first. You need to secure the entry door to the garage to make it next to impossible for the undesirables to gain entry. Assuming this is where the attempted entry was.
The passage door needs to be strengthened at the deadbolt entry point and where the deadbolt is mounted. The passage door and frame will need to be removed and reinstalled to accomplish this.
Start with a piece of 1/4" steel plate cut to the size required to fit the outer side of the door jamb. Say, 3 1/2" x 6". Drill a hole roughly in the middle of it to accept the deadbolt as it goes through the door jamb. Also drill 4 small holes in the corners of the steel piece to allow you to screw the plate to the back side of the jamb. You will need 4 other screw holes to allow for 4" screws to go through the door jamb and into the building studs. Now remove the door and frame and attach the steel as suggested above. Drill through the 4 holes made in the steel and through the jamb so you know where to put the long screws. Reinstall the door and frame. Screw the 4" screws into the jamb and through to the building studs. Then employ a "wrap around" door guard where the deadbolt is mounted to prevent the door from coming apart if the door is being kicked in. They can be purchased at most hardware stores in your area.
If the door swings out and exposes the hinge pins, be sure the hinges employ non removable hinge pins.
All of this doesn't take too much time to accomplish and it sure prevents the door from being kicked in.
If you have an overhead door with a top row of windows, remove the disconnect rope from the overhead operator to prevent thieves on the outside from breaking a window and pulling the rope to open your overhead door. I even use a zip tie to attach the lever to the trolley. Just remember to train others in the household how to get out if the power fails.
Beyond this, an audible alarm also helps but so will signage. Something along the lines of "Please carry identification before entering so we can identify your body and notify your next of kin"

[huntinstuff]

Originally Posted by Landshark

First things first. You need to secure the entry door to the garage to make it next to impossible for the undesirables to gain entry. Assuming this is where the attempted entry was.
The passage door needs to be strengthened at the deadbolt entry point and where the deadbolt is mounted. The passage door and frame will need to be removed and reinstalled to accomplish this.
Start with a piece of 1/4" steel plate cut to the size required to fit the outer side of the door jamb. Say, 3 1/2" x 6". Drill a hole roughly in the middle of it to accept the deadbolt as it goes through the door jamb. Also drill 4 small holes in the corners of the steel piece to allow you to screw the plate to the back side of the jamb. You will need 4 other screw holes to allow for 4" screws to go through the door jamb and into the building studs. Now remove the door and frame and attach the steel as suggested above. Drill through the 4 holes made in the steel and through the jamb so you know where to put the long screws. Reinstall the door and frame. Screw the 4" screws into the jamb and through to the building studs. Then employ a "wrap around" door guard where the deadbolt is mounted to prevent the door from coming apart if the door is being kicked in. They can be purchased at most hardware stores in your area.
If the door swings out and exposes the hinge pins, be sure the hinges employ non removable hinge pins.
All of this doesn't take too much time to accomplish and it sure prevents the door from being kicked in.
If you have an overhead door with a top row of windows, remove the disconnect rope from the overhead operator to prevent thieves on the outside from breaking a window and pulling the rope to open your overhead door. I even use a zip tie to attach the lever to the trolley. Just remember to train others in the household how to get out if the power fails.
Beyond this, an audible alarm also helps but so will signage. Something along the lines of "Please carry identification before entering so we can identify your body and notify your next of kin"

Exactly

At my sis' ranch, there is a sign "anyone found here tonite will be found here tomorrow morning"

[Etownpaul]

Monitoring is only worth it if you live in a city. I deal with Liberty, they are 2-3X the price of Telus but they have a call centre in Edmonton staffed by people who speak fluent English unlike Telus. You really do get what you pay for.

I deal with EPS a fair amount at work and I’ll have a coffee with the cops a few times a year and from what they tell me most of them genuinely love catching guys breaking into houses and garages. Most of them got into policing to help people and what better way than to arrest some scumbag steal other’s property.

That said I know EPS will only respond to a burglary alarm if at least 2 zones are in alarm. They won’t respond (nor will your monitoring company call them) if your front door is the only zone alarming at your panel. The easiest way is to have double coverage of all entrances with motion sensors as well as door contacts. For a detached garage I would have door switches on the man doors as well as the overhead doors that are also covered by motion detectors. That way if a door is breeched you have 2 zones in alarm almost immediately and the monitoring company will make the call. Don’t forget a siren for the garage as well since most panels just alarm at the panel you can’t hear the alarm in a detached garage.

Detached garages are a preferred target for thieves because most are poorly secured. Fortify the man door like Landshark said above, a steel door with a steel jamb plate is a must. Buy a high end deadbolt. Lock you gates to limit access to your yard.

A big mean dog is a great deterrent but I’m not about to let my Rottie get sick eating tainted junky meat if I let him loose on some would be thieves.

[LeonH]

Originally Posted by -JR-

I don't think they are going to discount you $1200 a year ?

If a person is paying $1200 a year for monitoring, a theft has been already done and is continuing every month he/she stays on that contract.

[KGB]

Originally Posted by Twisted Canuck

If the discount on your home insurance rate is equal to the cost of monitoring, how is that a waste of money? Just curious.

Insurance companies offer you a 10% discount for the monitored alarm. You do the math….

[KGB]

Originally Posted by LeonH

If a person is paying $1200 a year for monitoring, a theft has been already done and is continuing every month he/she stays on that contract.

Lol that’s exactly it!

[Mb-MBR]

In my opinion, security cameras might catch the perps in action, but they're usually covered head to toe, and you can't make them out. Might be a good option when you are not home and might help if you can catch the vehicle information.

It's been proven, three things scare would be thieves away, light, sound, or a dog barking. As been mentioned signage also helps. Motion sensing lights are a great deterrent and are very reasonably priced nowadays. Of course, you could add a fourth deterrent, a gunshot....

I have an alarm system, but they don't send anyone out if it goes off, they just call you. Only reason I keep it is because the siren is LOUD and if any of my access points are breached while I'm home I'm prepared.

I focus on lights and signage for the garage. Flood lights go off and illuminate the security signs just to let them know this place ain't easy pickings. Motion sensing lights for front and side door, very bright lights. All bought off Amazon.

Since the snow fell, I've had 3 different sets of footprints approaching my garage from back yard and it appears all 3 retreated as soon as the lights went off and am assuming when they saw the signs.

Good Luck.

[Big Grey Wolf]

Lat time I looked Telus system with 'Monitoring' were in the $50 -60 range per month. I believe $30/month is without monitoring 24/7.

[3blade]

Originally Posted by Landshark

First things first. You need to secure the entry door to the garage to make it next to impossible for the undesirables to gain entry. Assuming this is where the attempted entry was.
The passage door needs to be strengthened at the deadbolt entry point and where the deadbolt is mounted. The passage door and frame will need to be removed and reinstalled to accomplish this.
Start with a piece of 1/4" steel plate cut to the size required to fit the outer side of the door jamb. Say, 3 1/2" x 6". Drill a hole roughly in the middle of it to accept the deadbolt as it goes through the door jamb. Also drill 4 small holes in the corners of the steel piece to allow you to screw the plate to the back side of the jamb. You will need 4 other screw holes to allow for 4" screws to go through the door jamb and into the building studs. Now remove the door and frame and attach the steel as suggested above. Drill through the 4 holes made in the steel and through the jamb so you know where to put the long screws. Reinstall the door and frame. Screw the 4" screws into the jamb and through to the building studs. Then employ a "wrap around" door guard where the deadbolt is mounted to prevent the door from coming apart if the door is being kicked in. They can be purchased at most hardware stores in your area.
If the door swings out and exposes the hinge pins, be sure the hinges employ non removable hinge pins.
All of this doesn't take too much time to accomplish and it sure prevents the door from being kicked in.
If you have an overhead door with a top row of windows, remove the disconnect rope from the overhead operator to prevent thieves on the outside from breaking a window and pulling the rope to open your overhead door. I even use a zip tie to attach the lever to the trolley. Just remember to train others in the household how to get out if the power fails.
Beyond this, an audible alarm also helps but so will signage. Something along the lines of "Please carry identification before entering so we can identify your body and notify your next of kin"

Dang. Learned something new. Thanks!

I got a monitored system more for fire, flood, carbon monoxide protection. Had a door sensor drop and trigger, and they did dispatch the RCMP (I called it off when the motion sensor for that room didn’t register a disturbance - don’t think they ever got going). Friends kid triggered an alarm, then his wife punched in the panic code by accident, ERT showed up…so yes there are benefits to monitoring.

Agree with lights, alarm siren, hardened exterior.