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  #751  
Old 05-14-2022, 05:09 PM
spurly spurly is online now
 
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If anyone is interested this one will be coming up for sale in the next couple weeks. Making room for another. Beautiful knife, never out of the house
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  #752  
Old 05-14-2022, 05:13 PM
obsessed1 obsessed1 is offline
 
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My loveless pattern bolsters do get in the way sometimes and at some angles become a bit sharp...Id prefer a design without them and yah, my blades edge retention is lacking...it will hold for gutless method on an entire deer, but not a moose or elk which becomes a pain trying to get a consistent keen edge in the field...
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  #753  
Old 05-14-2022, 05:37 PM
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My loveless pattern bolsters do get in the way sometimes and at some angles become a bit sharp...Id prefer a design without them and yah, my blades edge retention is lacking...it will hold for gutless method on an entire deer, but not a moose or elk which becomes a pain trying to get a consistent keen edge in the field...

That certainly validates my hypothesis.

As for edge retention, the dozier/Crotts will certainly do the whole job without having to sharpen it or giving up any cutting aggression. Like I said, I havenít boned out an elk or moose with the Crotts designed semi skinner although I have boned out deer with it and it works very well.

That said, the last moose I killed in Alberta (2018) before we moved over here (spring of 2019) I shot in mid dec on wainwright. Being as the butcher was closing for Christmas he wouldnít take it. I had already gutted and skinned the moose with my dozier YPS and then chose to bone it out at home with the same knife. It would still shave my arm and cut paper along its entire edge without any areas that showed a loss of keenness. I didnít use the semi skinner that year because I had sold the micarta version and was waiting for the ivory version.

Back in 2015 I said I did a bear, three elk and six deer with that Crotts without sharpening it. I skinned the bear, gutted and skinned the elk and gutted/skinned/boned the deer out with it. It too would still shave at the end of the year and I didnít perform any maintenance on the edge that year.
Both of those were D2 so theyíll go the distance. Keep in mind Iím careful with the edge. I donít beat on it, stab it in the ground, hack away on bones etc.
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  #754  
Old 05-14-2022, 07:03 PM
Pathfinder76 Pathfinder76 is offline
 
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There looks to be no doubt that the Crotts Semi Skinner has its roots with the Loveless semi skinner design. However, as others have stated here, Bobís knives were plenty big. Crotts has perfected it in both size and geometry. Itís a good using knife for a hunter and has Coil has stated before. Precious few knives are.
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  #755  
Old 05-14-2022, 10:45 PM
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S30v eh? I had no idea. That BS I mentioned about D2ís carbide size is irrelevant. I still like a toothy edge for everything but your finding your own reality with that steel because I have no experience.
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  #756  
Old 05-14-2022, 11:50 PM
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S30v eh? I had no idea. That BS I mentioned about D2ís carbide size is irrelevant. I still like a toothy edge for everything but your finding your own reality with that steel because I have no experience.
I spoke with Dan quite a bit about steel. He recommended it. Iíve used it quite extensively and have always had good luck with it.
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  #757  
Old 05-15-2022, 03:14 AM
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I spoke with Dan quite a bit about steel. He recommended it. Iíve used it quite extensively and have always had good luck with it.
Iíve had s30v on plenty of folders and grew to dislike it. In regard to ďno experienceĒ with it, I mean on Crotts knives used on game. Youíll have to work out final grit and how itís performance compares to the d2 in that dozier youíve got.

I always found it chippy on a folder in the real world. Very similar to s35vn, s90v and s110v. From my experience, none of the s??v steels are as tough as the steels that I like to use and I avoid them on folders. I havenít tried s45vn yet and I doubt I will.

Right now I want to try a spyderco kapara but I donít want s30v steel and I didnít get in on the 20cv sprint run that dlt put out. So my dislike of that steel goes deep enough that Iíll forgo owning a pocket knife because it comes in s30v.

Chances are for game processing itís not a bad choice at all. A ways back I had a gerber gator in s30v and I might of used it but typically I gave it to people I was hunting with as a loaner knife. It took a good edge but I donít remember using it myself. At the time I was running a falkniven f1 in vg10.
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  #758  
Old 05-15-2022, 08:06 AM
Pathfinder76 Pathfinder76 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Coiloil37 View Post
Iíve had s30v on plenty of folders and grew to dislike it. In regard to ďno experienceĒ with it, I mean on Crotts knives used on game. Youíll have to work out final grit and how itís performance compares to the d2 in that dozier youíve got.

I always found it chippy on a folder in the real world. Very similar to s35vn, s90v and s110v. From my experience, none of the s??v steels are as tough as the steels that I like to use and I avoid them on folders. I havenít tried s45vn yet and I doubt I will.

Right now I want to try a spyderco kapara but I donít want s30v steel and I didnít get in on the 20cv sprint run that dlt put out. So my dislike of that steel goes deep enough that Iíll forgo owning a pocket knife because it comes in s30v.

Chances are for game processing itís not a bad choice at all. A ways back I had a gerber gator in s30v and I might of used it but typically I gave it to people I was hunting with as a loaner knife. It took a good edge but I donít remember using it myself. At the time I was running a falkniven f1 in vg10.
The s30v that I have used has mostly been on Gene Ingram knives and have never had one go dull so to speak. For hunting use. Now that said, I will and have, touch up a knife mid season and have always done them at a 1000 grit finish. Now Iím trying 800 :-). Heat treat has to have something to do with it as well. I think half the trouble with factory pocket knives is runs of crap heat treating. I saw one guy completely destroy a Benchmade s90v blade in a week. That thing was a chipped mess.

Iím really liking M390 and am trying to talk myself into an M4 blade for a heavy use pocket knife at the moment.
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  #759  
Old 05-15-2022, 08:35 AM
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Well my knife finally cleared customs on Friday and made it to Toronto. My US tracking number is now a Canadian tracking number.

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  #760  
Old 05-15-2022, 08:57 AM
Pathfinder76 Pathfinder76 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by cody j View Post
I went with D2 steel, green micarta scales ( not too polished so there is still some texture), orange liners, aluminum pins, notched thumbrest on top of blade and a tan kydex sheath. There is some nice handle options, I saw some pics of semi skinners with desert ironwood that looked very good but I do think the green micarta looks quite good also.
Change your order to red liners and mosaic pins and Iíll sell you one of my semi skinnerís today. No wait. Iíll take yours in the fall. :-)

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  #761  
Old 05-15-2022, 09:46 AM
Pathfinder76 Pathfinder76 is offline
 
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Here is a comparison in edge retention between s30v and Dozier D2. Pretty close to apples to apples. Same guy, same sharpener, same edge. If you donít want to watch they came out pretty much identical.

https://youtu.be/A1QOXXygVSE

https://youtu.be/4ZezMl9-SB8
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  #762  
Old 05-15-2022, 10:17 AM
Ken3134 Ken3134 is offline
 
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Nothing wrong with S30V steel, most who have never had a knife with a super steel would be amazed. Not really a favorite of mine, but wouldn't turn down a knife made from it that's for sure. I have never found any of the higher SxxV steels to be very much fun to sharpen, but they do have great edge retention. I just got a Paramilitary in CPM Cru wear, that I think is becoming a favorite. Haven't used my Crotts semi-skinner yet (on an animal) but playing around with it on the workbench seems to be a wicked slicer extremely sharp. Mine id made from CTS-XHP not D2, I think that knife will replace my old standby Grohmann that I used for years.

I guess the point I'm making is that really any good knife maker, using a high end steel is going to put out a knife that very few people would tell the difference from in real world use comparison, especially in small cutting tasks over a long period of time.

Also mention anyone looking for a knife I'll be putting a few up for sale, I might list them here or on a forum, as well as maybe ebay. Going to sort through and do a major thinning of the herd, and stick to a more reasonable sized collection. Lots that dont get used and likely won't as I really dont do much rotation.

Ken
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  #763  
Old 05-15-2022, 10:42 AM
Pathfinder76 Pathfinder76 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Ken3134 View Post
I guess the point I'm making is that really any good knife maker, using a high end steel is going to put out a knife that very few people would tell the difference from in real world use comparison, especially in small cutting tasks over a long period of time.
This is true. I had a conversation with a gentleman the other day. The consensus was that there are far to many variables to draw too many concise conclusions around knife use in the field.

Iíve never compared two knives in the field until last week. It was kinda funny really. Iíd use one and think. Wow this one cuts better. Then switch to the other and nope. I think this one is better. But hide thickness, cutting angle, hair, and my aching back all play a part Iím sure. Lol. One seemed like a better tool ergonomicly, but the actual cutting edge was pretty even.
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  #764  
Old 05-15-2022, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Coiloil37 View Post
Iíve had s30v on plenty of folders and grew to dislike it. In regard to ďno experienceĒ with it, I mean on Crotts knives used on game. Youíll have to work out final grit and how itís performance compares to the d2 in that dozier youíve got.

I always found it chippy on a folder in the real world. Very similar to s35vn, s90v and s110v. From my experience, none of the s??v steels are as tough as the steels that I like to use and I avoid them on folders. I havenít tried s45vn yet and I doubt I will.

Right now I want to try a spyderco kapara but I donít want s30v steel and I didnít get in on the 20cv sprint run that dlt put out. So my dislike of that steel goes deep enough that Iíll forgo owning a pocket knife because it comes in s30v.

Chances are for game processing itís not a bad choice at all. A ways back I had a gerber gator in s30v and I might of used it but typically I gave it to people I was hunting with as a loaner knife. It took a good edge but I donít remember using it myself. At the time I was running a falkniven f1 in vg10.
Just wondering what you were cutting that gave the blades chips in it? Was that from an animal ?
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  #765  
Old 05-15-2022, 02:58 PM
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Just wondering what you were cutting that gave the blades chips in it? Was that from an animal ?
I havenít used one for processing game. Iíve used and grown to dislike those steels in folders for every day cutting tasks. For game theyíre probably fine, mine is s90v because I expect on game the lack of toughness wonít be an issue.
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  #766  
Old 05-15-2022, 07:40 PM
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Change your order to red liners and mosaic pins and Iíll sell you one of my semi skinnerís today. No wait. Iíll take yours in the fall. :-)

I think Iíll stick with my original order, but with the long wait your offer did seem a little tempting.
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  #767  
Old 05-15-2022, 07:40 PM
cody j cody j is offline
 
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Thatís a nice looking knife
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  #768  
Old 05-16-2022, 08:41 AM
Pathfinder76 Pathfinder76 is offline
 
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No worries. I figured being almost exactly what you ordered it might save you the wait. I have a pair of them. :-)
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  #769  
Old 05-16-2022, 11:20 AM
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Now my knife has been presented to canada border services agency for customs review.

Chop chop Canada post!!

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  #770  
Old 05-16-2022, 01:11 PM
averagejoe averagejoe is offline
 
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I figured this thread would be a good place for this video and generate some great discussion. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANJhToncRrw

Most production knives (and a lot of customs) are ground and/or finished and sharpened on a belt grinder these days.

There is a lot of debate as to how this affects the final blade depending on heat treat, how hot the blade got during grinding, type of abrasives used etc. For this reason a lot of people will not allow their knives anywhere near a belt sharpener.

What this Youtuber has found over a lot of edge testing is that on average it takes 2-4 sharpenings to get past the "bad/weakened" steel from the factory edge, sometimes maybe 5-6 on a bad knife. He has tested hundreds of knives, repeating the tests several times in a lot of cases to verify the results were consistent.

After a lot of testing you get an idea for how a steel should perform and know when something is off. In the case of the knife in this video it took 12 sharpenings to start getting to good steel and 13-14 to get the results that were expected from the steel. That is a significant amount of sharpening. How many people take their knife through a full sharpening (not just a strop/hone/touchup pass) at least once a month? Every 2 months or more? That could be years worth of sharpening for some people before they discover that their bad knife was under performing or the chippy steel is not so chippy any more.

How many people would get a knife like that and write if off as being a bad steel, or perhaps a bad heat treat and a defective blade? How many people would go to the lengths of sharpening and testing a knife 12-15 times to find out what was going on? If a maker constantly overheats their edges and people aren't sharpening past that weakened metal then a steel would become know for being a bad steel (especially from that maker). Personally I think this is why steel like S30V is known to be extremely chippy. So many people have experienced over heated steel they just write it off as the norm. I have personally carried an S30V knife for the last 5 years and have never had a problem with it being chippy and I have put some abuse on it.

If a maker has their processes down and never overheats their edges they will likely become known for amazing knives in whatever steels they use because people will never have an experience with that weakened steel they need to sharpen past first to get the performance they should.

Just some food for thought. Maybe you have a knife hanging around in the back of a drawer you wrote off years ago. Try removing a bit of steel and see if that helps it.
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  #771  
Old 05-16-2022, 04:16 PM
Pathfinder76 Pathfinder76 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by averagejoe View Post
I figured this thread would be a good place for this video and generate some great discussion. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANJhToncRrw

Most production knives (and a lot of customs) are ground and/or finished and sharpened on a belt grinder these days.

There is a lot of debate as to how this affects the final blade depending on heat treat, how hot the blade got during grinding, type of abrasives used etc. For this reason a lot of people will not allow their knives anywhere near a belt sharpener.

What this Youtuber has found over a lot of edge testing is that on average it takes 2-4 sharpenings to get past the "bad/weakened" steel from the factory edge, sometimes maybe 5-6 on a bad knife. He has tested hundreds of knives, repeating the tests several times in a lot of cases to verify the results were consistent.

After a lot of testing you get an idea for how a steel should perform and know when something is off. In the case of the knife in this video it took 12 sharpenings to start getting to good steel and 13-14 to get the results that were expected from the steel. That is a significant amount of sharpening. How many people take their knife through a full sharpening (not just a strop/hone/touchup pass) at least once a month? Every 2 months or more? That could be years worth of sharpening for some people before they discover that their bad knife was under performing or the chippy steel is not so chippy any more.

How many people would get a knife like that and write if off as being a bad steel, or perhaps a bad heat treat and a defective blade? How many people would go to the lengths of sharpening and testing a knife 12-15 times to find out what was going on? If a maker constantly overheats their edges and people aren't sharpening past that weakened metal then a steel would become know for being a bad steel (especially from that maker). Personally I think this is why steel like S30V is known to be extremely chippy. So many people have experienced over heated steel they just write it off as the norm. I have personally carried an S30V knife for the last 5 years and have never had a problem with it being chippy and I have put some abuse on it.

If a maker has their processes down and never overheats their edges they will likely become known for amazing knives in whatever steels they use because people will never have an experience with that weakened steel they need to sharpen past first to get the performance they should.

Just some food for thought. Maybe you have a knife hanging around in the back of a drawer you wrote off years ago. Try removing a bit of steel and see if that helps it.
Some excellent thoughts. Thanks for posting that.
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  #772  
Old 05-16-2022, 08:03 PM
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Iím not going to address the individual questions/opinions/posts. Iíll just sum up my experience.


I havenít counted but Iíve owned 20+ folders in s??v steel of which almost all were benchmade and spyderco. Some of which I owned and used for many years and were sharpened many times. The easiest way to compare steel would be to remove some variables so letís talk just spyderco paramilitary 2ís specifically.


In the pm2 Iíve had/have the following steels. Several of them Iíve had or still have multiples

S30v
S35vn
S90v
S110v
CTS-204p
M390
CPM 20cv
Cruwear
M4


Now the cruwear I only ordered a couple weeks ago when dlt dropped it and I had it shipped to my address in red deer so I havenít played with it yet but Iíll see how it goes when I get my hands on it.

Iíve had a PM2 in my pocket for over a decade. If Iím not flying there is one in my pocket and it does everything from opening letters to bumming around the bush to working in the garage, on a rig site. You get the idea. Iím not the guy out in the shed turning big pieces of cardboard into little pieces of cardboard so I can ďuseĒ my knife. Iíve got plenty of legitimate things to cut in my normal day to day life.
What I found was s??v steels showed more edge damage on comparable cutting tasks then tougher steels.

Letís say your cutting 5 ton ratchet strap webbing with imbedded sand and grit in it. Rope/soft line tied to steel and a bit of accidental edge apex to steel impact, opening a box and hit a stapleÖ etc. The tougher steels donít show any damage ir if they do perhaps a slight flat spot. S??v often shows micro chipping, sometimes other damage but usually micro chipping vs rolling. I found s35vn the toughest and s110v to be the worst but they all exhibited that behaviour vs the steels that I prefer to use.

All edges get dulled one way or another but I really dislike steels that chip.

As such, I avoid those steels and Iím not a fan. Theyíre probably fine for processing game as there arenít any rocks or steel in an animal and Iím well aware s30v is very similar to d2 in a lot of ways. I still donít see me changing my mind or dislike of the s??v steels.
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  #773  
Old 05-16-2022, 09:29 PM
senderomag senderomag is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Coiloil37 View Post
Iím not going to address the individual questions/opinions/posts. Iíll just sum up my experience.


I havenít counted but Iíve owned 20+ folders in s??v steel of which almost all were benchmade and spyderco. Some of which I owned and used for many years and were sharpened many times. The easiest way to compare steel would be to remove some variables so letís talk just spyderco paramilitary 2ís specifically.


In the pm2 Iíve had/have the following steels. Several of them Iíve had or still have multiples

S30v
S35vn
S90v
S110v
CTS-204p
M390
CPM 20cv
Cruwear
M4


Now the cruwear I only ordered a couple weeks ago when dlt dropped it and I had it shipped to my address in red deer so I havenít played with it yet but Iíll see how it goes when I get my hands on it.

Iíve had a PM2 in my pocket for over a decade. If Iím not flying there is one in my pocket and it does everything from opening letters to bumming around the bush to working in the garage, on a rig site. You get the idea. Iím not the guy out in the shed turning big pieces of cardboard into little pieces of cardboard so I can ďuseĒ my knife. Iíve got plenty of legitimate things to cut in my normal day to day life.
What I found was s??v steels showed more edge damage on comparable cutting tasks then tougher steels.

Letís say your cutting 5 ton ratchet strap webbing with imbedded sand and grit in it. Rope/soft line tied to steel and a bit of accidental edge apex to steel impact, opening a box and hit a stapleÖ etc. The tougher steels donít show any damage ir if they do perhaps a slight flat spot. S??v often shows micro chipping, sometimes other damage but usually micro chipping vs rolling. I found s35vn the toughest and s110v to be the worst but they all exhibited that behaviour vs the steels that I prefer to use.

All edges get dulled one way or another but I really dislike steels that chip.

As such, I avoid those steels and Iím not a fan. Theyíre probably fine for processing game as there arenít any rocks or steel in an animal and Iím well aware s30v is very similar to d2 in a lot of ways. I still donít see me changing my mind or dislike of the s??v steels.

Are u going to give magnacut a run mr coil ?
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  #774  
Old 05-16-2022, 10:18 PM
Pathfinder76 Pathfinder76 is offline
 
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I was clearing trails tonight with my M390 Spyderco and chipped it. Baaaah.
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  #775  
Old 05-16-2022, 10:37 PM
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Are u going to give magnacut a run mr coil ?
I have Phil Wilson building me a 9Ē filleting knife in magnacut. Other then that, I would certainly try it if someone makes a knife I like in that steel. I wouldnít buy a knife Iím lukewarm on just because they used magnacut.
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  #776  
Old 05-17-2022, 01:22 AM
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I was clearing trails tonight with my M390 Spyderco and chipped it. Baaaah.
Sorry to hear. Hopefully, just a small chip that can be ďsharpened awayĒ.

What do you mean by ďclearing trailsĒ though? M390 is not a very tough steel at all. Depending on my understanding of ďclearing trailsĒ, you need something like 3V, CruWear, Vanadis 4, or stainless steels (at the expense of edge retention, possibly) like AEB-L, Nitro V, 420, etc; the many high carbon steels with virtually no corrosion resistance too, I guess (I would never consider any of these, personally, when buying a knife that I intend to use). Iíd choose one of the former - that is, 3V, CruWear, V4 - with CruWear being the preference. At the very little expense of edge retention (in most cases), you gain quite a bit in toughness. M4 and V8 will get you ahead in that department as well, though Iíd probably stick one of the other three (nothing wrong with M4 or V8 though). Carothers has a great Field Knife (I think it is called) in 3V that is probably/arguably the best knife a guy can get for cleaning trails (and otherwise useful) and then some.

This is the reason I do not see any of these stainless ďsuper steelsĒ as the best option for every day use knife. They will chip, perhaps even with ďmediumĒ use, regardless of heat treatment. You wonít necessarily see those chips but they will be there. That will, at the very least, even out that loss in edge retention over any of the steels I mentioned above. For my daily purposes, for example, it wouldnít matter much because I rarely use a knife, really; yet, sometimes, even for my purposes, something tougher is desirable. Even a bit of pressure at a ďwrongĒ angle would do it. Hence, I think CruWear is king, lol. I still havenít found anyone who would make me a MagnaCut knife (got on the list with one guy, but he hasnít used the steel yet, so it is whenever he gets to it sort of thing). I think this is the ticket moving ahead according to feedback from both, users and makers.

Having said that, most of the knives made from any of the steels mentioned above will do a superb job processing game in the field. Most probably wonít need a touch up until the season is done (if you donít go hard on the bone): they may not all shave once it is done and over with, but they are likely to still have a good working edge.

There is also another solution: cheap(er) knives made from ďaverageĒ or ďmediocreĒ steels, lol. I know from personal experience that AUS8, for example, can take me through an elk in the field and I donít need to bring a sharpener. It will also take some abuse and wonít chip as S90V would, for example, if I have to do something more than skinning and cutting meat while out there. All in perspective, imo, so to speak.
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Old 05-17-2022, 05:42 AM
South west trappin RG's Avatar
South west trappin RG South west trappin RG is offline
 
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I have 20+ paring knives in the shop that thatís all I use for skinning from feet, ears, eyes, lips, Taking apart joints they are flexible an sharpen very fast. Henkel victornec superstore pc brand 2$ - 8$. I do like a nice drop point knife to carry hunting nice to hold an look at but I usually have 2-3 paring knives to brake an animal down in my pack lol. Just my opinion
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Old 05-17-2022, 07:36 AM
graybeard graybeard is offline
 
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Originally Posted by South west trappin RG View Post
I have 20+ paring knives in the shop that thatís all I use for skinning from feet, ears, eyes, lips, Taking apart joints they are flexible an sharpen very fast. Henkel victornec superstore pc brand 2$ - 8$. I do like a nice drop point knife to carry hunting nice to hold an look at but I usually have 2-3 paring knives to brake an animal down in my pack lol. Just my opinion
Hahahaha, over the years I have used a number and different styles of blades.

From a regular drywall Olfa knife and then to the Olfa shingle hook for belly opening.
I once rendered a whole deer with a Swiss Army knife including the saw for bone work.

And finally, you will be surprised how far a simple window razor blade will take you.... You can do everything with it except the bone work.

However, I do like a nice drop point as well.

Enjoy...
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Last edited by graybeard; 05-17-2022 at 07:49 AM.
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Old 05-17-2022, 10:42 AM
fishnguy fishnguy is online now
 
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Originally Posted by South west trappin RG View Post
I have 20+ paring knives in the shop that thatís all I use for skinning from feet, ears, eyes, lips, Taking apart joints they are flexible an sharpen very fast. Henkel victornec superstore pc brand 2$ - 8$. I do like a nice drop point knife to carry hunting nice to hold an look at but I usually have 2-3 paring knives to brake an animal down in my pack lol. Just my opinion
I have a couple of those in the kitchen (Victorinox), mostly for slicing fruit and whatnot. Pretty poor edge retention, even for slicing fruit. If I could get one of those or something similar in Maxamet (even Rex 121) that I would likely never have to sharpen again and it wouldnít cost an arm and a leg, thatíd be swell, lol. They wouldnít work around the shop though, but would be perfect for slicing fruit.

Like graybeard, and probably most of anyone else, and like I already mentioned in this thread, I used a bunch of different blades to dress and chop game in the field, including the Olfa, lol. They all work, some better some worse. Last year, I chopped a whitetail with the BuckÖ whatever it is called (Kingsman?) 10-dollar folder and, while not very convenient, it worked just fine; could definitely do another. I recommended them for something to have in the vehicle (I have a couple or more myself; had definitely more than two, but some got lost I think). As long as we are doing it and having fun doing it
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Old 05-17-2022, 11:21 AM
obsessed1 obsessed1 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by South west trappin RG View Post
I have 20+ paring knives in the shop that thatís all I use for skinning from feet, ears, eyes, lips, Taking apart joints they are flexible an sharpen very fast. Henkel victornec superstore pc brand 2$ - 8$. I do like a nice drop point knife to carry hunting nice to hold an look at but I usually have 2-3 paring knives to brake an animal down in my pack lol. Just my opinion

This point has been made numerous times......shoot a broken beer bottle can dress a deer out. As can almost every sharp rock or hunk of steel. Just because it can doesnt mean it will do it easily. Guys buy 300$ pair of pants for hunting, when you could just wear 20$ walmart wranglers, or buy a sako and 1500$ glass instead of a pkg axis....its because it affords an advantage. Only you can evaluate whether that advantage is worth it. For some its also pride of ownership/ use....until you have used a top tier tool whether it be saw, axe, gun, binos, knife ect you wont know what your missing.
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