Viking Range - only one oven burner seems to light

[Spidey]

I've got my range door off waiting for a replacement hinge. While it was off I figured I'd give it a good clean. I always thought the oven took awhile to heat up, so I pulled the bottom plate and turned the oven on. Both igniters glowed nice and bright, then when the gas kicked in only the left burner would light.

I'm pretty sure both igniters work fine. I even tried to hand light the right burner but no luck. It's almost as though there's no gas coming in. Or, maybe both burners don't light at the same time (staggered times?) I find it hard to believe the burner is faulty as those things don't tend to fail unless there's lots of corrosion which doesn't appear to be the case (very clean around the burners)

Any suggestions?

[Puma]

What proves to the gas valve that the igniter is on/hot and safe to open ?

I would say there is a bi-metallic strip or something to prove safe.

One burner would not be for a lower broiler ?

Pictures would help.

[Spidey]

Originally Posted by Puma

What proves to the gas valve that the igniter is on/hot and safe to open ?

I would say there is a bi-metallic strip or something to prove safe.

One burner would not be for a lower broiler ?

Pictures would help.

I'm not sure. It seems as though both lower burners would be for the bake function but not confident about that. I may have to wait until Monday to call a viking parts distributor. Or, if I get ambitious I'll swap the igniters and see if the same thing happens.

[Spidey]

Here are the pics:

#1 Both igniters appear to be working



#2
Only one burner lights

[Tundra Monkey]

I have a similar stove but it is a Wolf.

I had to replace a circuit board but I can't remember what the specific problem was with the stove but something wouldn't light.

It was an easy fix......access was through the top of the stove.

I believe I narrowed it down to what card from the maintenance manual for the stove and a chat with a Wolf tech on the phone.

I got my parts directly through Wolf but the stove came from Trail Appliances.

I would give Viking a call.

[Puma]

You could switch igniters left to right to prove good. They are about 100 bucks each.

[pseelk]

If it wont light with a match, it is probably not getting gas to that burner.

[Puma]

Originally Posted by pseelk

if it wont light with a match, it is probably not getting gas to that burner.

captain_obvious.jpg

[CaberTosser]

One would have to show us a picture of the gas supply tubes to the burners and where they connect to the gas control to determine if they both come from the same supply or if perhaps there is a 2nd stage burner with its own individual gas control. Follow the breadcrumbs....

[flange]

Ignitors should draw 3 or better amps each. Even if they're bright if they don't draw the bimetal in the valve won't open. Probably need the pair as they slowly degrade in performance and the one that works probably won't soon. BTW most any flat bar ignitor will work if it fits, doesn't have to be the Viking part number.

[Tundra Monkey]

Originally Posted by Tundra Monkey

I had to replace a circuit board but I can't remember what the specific problem was with the stove but something wouldn't light.

Ol'whatsername just reminded me that one of the stoves would not work

[pseelk]

[quote

[pseelk]

Originally Posted by Puma

Attachment 111678

My point is there is no point swapping out the ignighters if there is no gas at the burner.No?

[dewalt18]

It is a gas supply issue, not an igniter issue. If there was gas supplied to the second burner tube, it would eventually light of the flame from the first burner, even if the igniter didn't light it. Like caber said, follow the breadcrumbs back. Is there an individual gas valve for each burner? What is the flame proving system? Is there an obstruction in the burner?

I've seen furnaces run one burner short because of something as simple as a small bead of styrofoam lodged in one of the burner orifices.

[flange]

Hang an amprobe on each ignitor if below 3 amps they are your problem. Amp draw of the ignitor control the safety valve. This is by far the most common issue with this type of ignition.

[Spidey]

Thanks for the input folks. Here's a pick of the gas supply. I don't think its a matter of gas getting to the igniter/burner. Like flange said, my research has found that there needs to be enough amperage in the igniter to a) tell the unit to release the gas (safety valve) and b) light the burner. Seems as though b) is happening but not a).

I'll order a pair of iginters. Thanks for the tip on using non-viking parts. It's the difference between a $40 and $100 order!

[flange]

No trouble. Make sure you inspect the burner right next to the igniter they are prone to rotting out.

[Spidey]

Originally Posted by flange

Ignitors should draw 3 or better amps each. Even if they're bright if they don't draw the bimetal in the valve won't open. Probably need the pair as they slowly degrade in performance and the one that works probably won't soon. BTW most any flat bar ignitor will work if it fits, doesn't have to be the Viking part number.

Other than the existing working igniter dying sooner, is there any merit in changing them both out at the same time? The reason I ask is the working igniter is VERY tricky to get at and if it's still working, I'm content to leave it in there.

[flange]

if you can measure the amp draw you can make a better determination. They both have seen the same number of cycles so if one has failed the other generally isn't to far behind. I normally pull the whole burner out easier to inspect/repair. Bracket at the front of the tube is held in by 5/16 screws and another bracket at the rear. Pay attention that the burner goes back over the orifice and is properly retained. As a final point it is advisable touse ceramic marretes if splicing the wires. High temp area you don't want anything melting and shorting out.

[Spidey]

I just want to thank everyone for the suggestions and advice on the burners and the door hinge (another thread). I was able to source 2 ignitors and a hinge for $120 CDN. Put everything together and it's like we have a whole new range! I can't imagine what Viking service call and parts out of Calgary would have been for this. Special thanks to ORV for PMing me a phone number to source Viking parts. Once they gave me the part #'s I was off to the races.

And Flange, you were bang on with your assessment of the ignitors being the problem. After replacing both of them they fired up both sides without a hitch.