Going to try doing a tutorial for those who may be interested in learning how to make their own working decoys from wood.
I started a thread on the Sponsors area about the history of the Labrador duck and how I was going to make a pair for competition for 2012 but there is no way anyone can ask a question so I am going to add to this as I work along so you can ask about techniques if you like.
Not the only way to make a decoy but the method I use to make a strong utility decoy that could withstand years of hunting.
This particular competition is for a contemporary antique so I have chosen to use white cedar as a wood which is one of the traditional east coast decoy woods.
You need an appropriate size block of wood. Draw pattern from known specifications in appropriate posture.
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Lay the pattern pieces on the wopod to ensure you have adequate material to work with.
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Make sure over head and side view align. (I reversed them many years ago and had head end on side view lined up with tail view on overhead and didn't notice until I cut it out. Good way to waste $50. piece of wood)
Measure twice or three times and only cut once.
After you do the band saw you will be left with a blocky cut out that somewhat looks like the form of a duck. (this one is a blue wing teal I am doing which happens to be in the right stage for a picture)
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To the square shape I round everything to center lines I draw on the top and sides of the block. there are
no flat spots on a duck so think foot ball shape and you will be fine. Many beginners carve round corners on a flat top and sided duck. Tools for rounding vary widely with what is available (in the day) from spoke shaves, knives, chisels and gouges to dremel tools and course bits. I used a 1/2 horse Foredom tool with Grizzly carbide cutters to get the rough rounded shapes.
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I have done the upright alert drake but wanted a more relaxed feeding coy posture pattern for the hen.
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Just when they are starting to look like ducks we take them back to the bandsaw and cut them in half just above where the waterline will be. Basswood and cedar decoys are generally too heavy to float naturally so the interior should be hollowed with chisels gouges or a bench mounted drill press.
Some times I drill 3/8 hardwood dowel holes before cutting in half so the two halves line up properly and some times I hollow and then just use a bit of hot glue to line them up after hollowing before drilling 3/8 holes. One done each way in photos. I also have plans to mount a weighted self righting keel on these birds so have left a rigid area throughout the base of each decoy for strength and mounting screws.
As a safety measure in case water ever seeps into the decoy I coat the interior with 3-4 good coats of marine spar varnish. If the water penetrates untreated wood it may warp the two halves. If sealed you can simply drill a hole in the bottom to drain if it takes on water years from now and reseal with marine epoxy.
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More pictures after I have completed a bit more on the pair. thanks for looking!
Rob