Need some plumbing advice

[xxclaro]

So my pump in my septic tank cratered on me this week, and while I was replacing it I figured it would be a good time to have the tank pumped, which I did. I don't like the way the pump is rigged up though. The line from the pump comes up close to the top, then back down to exit to the field. This is fine, as I can lay flat and reach it so I can disconnect an elbow and pull the pump. The problem is that in the pipe that comes up, they used two pieces with a joint in the middle. It doesn't look very strong and I'm afraid its going to break, causing the pump to run continuously and probably burn out. Also, the pump is just hanging there by a rope about 2 feet off the bottom, since the pipe is too short.

I'd like to put in a 1 piece pipe, setting the pump on a block to keep it off the bottom. When the guy was here pumping the tank he recommended what I think was schedule 160 pipe. Does that sound right? It was pretty loud so I wasn't sure. Is it a rigid pipe or somewhat flexible? I'm wondering if rigid might be easier, as its a pain to try to fight with that damned curved abs pipe when trying to connect to the elbow up top. I put in a pretty heavy duty pump I think, so I'd like to do this right and not have to worry about it again for some years. Any advice on how to do it right is much appreciated.

[RagingPenguin]

When I get more time tomorrow I'll post the way we do it on new installs.
I'll try to explain but will draw a picture later

Basically we use sched 80 pvc, use a MIP adapter of pipe size of your choice. This is generally dictated by the pump size. Most often we use 1 1/2. Bigger systems will use 2in.
From the pump we go straight up as high as we can into a filter. Will post a pic later. This is optional. If you have an open discharge skip it. From there we go into a union. Nice part about that is ease of removal later on. Then we 90 down to the discharge line, and use another 90 with a 1/4in hole to allow drain back so it doesn't freeze. From there use whatever adapters you need to tie into the discharge line.

[xxclaro]

Thanks Penguin, I think I understand most of that. I didn't know filters were available, its not an open discharge so that might be a good idea. Is schedule 80 flexible or fairly rigid?

[CaberTosser]

Penguin has it right. Schedule 80 is the heavier pipe you'll want, use some unions to keep things easily serviceable and the drilled hole (though I put those in for other reasons with dewatering pumps so the check valve doesn't have an air lock below it). As for filters I don't typically deal with septic, but I am curious as to how the noted filters don't plug entirely with regularity.

Claro, schedule 80 PVC is fairly rigid, but its still a plastic and all that entails. It typically comes in a medium dark gray. Schedule 40 is white. Having the pump better supported is a good idea, the rope or chain should just be used to lift it for service, not to support it all the time. On occasion I've used plastic milk crates for pump stands / larger debris filters.

[dale7637]

Originally Posted by CaberTosser

Penguin has it right. Schedule 80 is the heavier pipe you'll want, use some unions to keep things easily serviceable and the drilled hole (though I put those in for other reasons with dewatering pumps so the check valve doesn't have an air lock below it). As for filters I don't typically deal with septic, but I am curious as to how the noted filters don't plug entirely with regularity.

Claro, schedule 80 PVC is fairly rigid, but its still a plastic and all that entails. It typically comes in a medium dark gray. Schedule 40 is white. Having the pump better supported is a good idea, the rope or chain should just be used to lift it for service, not to support it all the time. On occasion I've used plastic milk crates for pump stands / larger debris filters.

Cabers idea about the milk crate is a good one. You don't want that pump sitting right on bottom due to it picking up debris.

Make sure you have 2 chains or ropes tied to the pump.. Having a backup at midnight at 40 below is nice when the first rope breaks... Trust me on that.

[Opalsasquatch]

Penguin's advise is spot on with rigid pipe and a union up top. My pump is currently sitting on two cinder blocks, although a milk crate works great as well

[super7mag]

My wife's uncle helped me with ours he has installed lots of tanks over the years.
It's using 1-1/2" abs for everything. Coming from the discharge at the side of the tank he builds an H pipe using a tee and capping off the bottom. This acts as a stand so that no weight can be put on the discharge line. About 6-8" below the tee is the 1/4" hole for drain back. The top side of the tee goes up to meet the pipe coming from the pump also abs with a 90 on each pipe with a cam loc connector. I can pull my pump in about 30 seconds if need be. My only other suggestion is on the nipple going out from the tank use brass not plastic or abs.

[xxclaro]

Thanks for the advice guys, I think I have it almost figured out. One question though, can I use an ABS pipe instead? Seems like I can't get PVC locally without ordering, and by the time it gets here the tank will be filling again so I'd like to get it done asap. The pipe thats in there now is just black ABS, no idea what spec but it came off a roll which makes it very annoying to work with. Also, I'm guessing that with the heavier wall pipe, hose clamps will be insufficient? Do I need to glue the junctions?

[CaberTosser]

ABS would work, its just that the PVC is designed for pressure, though you'll not have a lot on that application. Let the glue set for a good hour or longer before plugging in the pump so you don't wind up with pressure pushing pipe out of a fitting socket.

If your existing pipe came off a roll and its black its not likely ABS, its probably polyethylene commonly called Corlon where you do the joints with barb insert fittings and stainless hose clamps.