Devcon Bedding A Rifle

[Tscoot]

Has anyone tried the Devcon plastic steel liquid? Part number is 10210. I was wondering if it may be easier to work with than the putty. Or is it too runny?

[pikergolf]

Just my opinion, but I would be scared of it sagging because of it's lower viscosity. I have never had voids because of putty if that is what you are worried about.

[DLab]

To avoid potential voids/bubbles in the finished product even with putty use, apply bedding material to both mating surfaces instead of just the rifle stock area.

[Tscoot]

Yeah my worry was voids and with the putty not "squishing" out around the action due to the consistency of it. I was thinking that the liquid may be easier to apply but if it runs out it will be a waste of time.

[pikergolf]

The putty squishes out just fine. It is about like peanut butter, maybe a little stiffer.

[prarie_boy1]

I’ve had some issues with air bubbles when using marine Tex but zero issues with devcon and have bedded several rifles with 10110. I have a small electric buddy heater I put in front of the resin when I start the inletting process and it warms up the devcon nicely so it’s easy to handle. Once I measure out the proper ratio of hardener to epoxy I have a small piece of flat puck board I mix it on with a metal spatula and work it back and forth for some time tell its properly mixed. Once I have the epoxy laid out in the stock I put some on the receiver in areas it’s likely to have air pockets (behind recoil lug etc) I then take a heat gun and run it up and down the devcon in the stock for a few seconds before laying in the barrelled action. Works quite nicely and never had an issue. I got the heat gun tip from Bob Galloway and he certainly knows his way around bedding a rifle.

[Tscoot]

Thanks for the tips guys!

[Duramaximos]

Ive decided to place the barreled action into the bedding with minimal tension.
Will be threading the action screws slightly for the purpose of indexing only.

My question is, how do you avoid the screws pushing epoxy into the receiver threads?
I understand the screws and receiver should be liberally coated with release agent but still concerned about pushing a blob of epoxy into those threads.

[JBE]

You could use studs then instead of your screws.

[Dean2]

Originally Posted by Duramaximos

Ive decided to place the barreled action into the bedding with minimal tension.
Will be threading the action screws slightly for the purpose of indexing only.

My question is, how do you avoid the screws pushing epoxy into the receiver threads?
I understand the screws and receiver should be liberally coated with release agent but still concerned about pushing a blob of epoxy into those threads.

If you want it only for indexing get two pieces of threaded rod, or two long bolts and cut the heads off. Screw them into the action before setting it in place. I always tension the action with the action screws so I make sure the screw threads and the action threads are well waxed, as well as inside the action where the front screw comes into the lug raceway. I then plug the screw holes with Plasticine. This stops a lot of it but you do still get some coming through. Wait about 2 hours till it sets up a bit and just carefully remove it with a Popsicle stick and Hoppes 9.

[Duramaximos]

Originally Posted by Dean2

....Wait about 2 hours till it sets up a bit and just carefully remove it with a Popsicle stick and Hoppes 9.

Are you refering to the epoxy that might enter the lug race way?

[Dean2]

Originally Posted by Duramaximos

Are you refering to the epoxy that might enter the lug race way?

Yes. once it stiffens a bit I find it a whole lots easier to remove than when it is still really soft and just smears. Anywhere up to about 5 hours it is still quite pliable but nor smearish, if you know what I mean. I also usually crack the screws and run one at a time in and out to form threads in the Devcon. Makes taking them out when it is set up hard a whole bunch easier. I would do that with Studs as well, if I were using them.

Hoppes 9 on a paper towel is also the best I ever found for cleaning up Devcon while it is still real wet. Easily lifts and cleans leaving no Devcon residue.

[Duramaximos]

Thanks Dean.
Well...here goes nothing!


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[Duramaximos]

No turning back now.


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[Dean2]

Originally Posted by Duramaximos

No turning back now.


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Looking good. I would clean up any overflow with a Popsicle stick and Hoppes while it is still easy to remove. Make sure you let it set at least a full 24 hours, better 48, before popping it out. you will get a much smoother finish. Guys are always worried about the gun being stuck in the stock and tend to want to pop them out early, resist the fear.

[Savage Bacon]

Does the 1lb tub last for a while after it's opened?

Where do you recommend buying it from? I assume it's the 10110 part # that you use?

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[Duramaximos]

Originally Posted by Savage Bacon

Does the 1lb tub last for a while after it's opened?

Where do you recommend buying it from? I assume it's the 10110 part # that you use?

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Based on the job I just completed (my first) one tub will easily do 6 rifles. I mixed 72 grams but 60 would have been adequate.
I did not add pillars.

...I've read that it should last 5 years after opening.

[Savage Bacon]

Originally Posted by Duramaximos

Based on the job I just completed (my first) one tub will easily do 6 rifles. I mixed 72 grams but 60 would have been adequate.
I did not add pillars.

...I've read that it should last 5 years after opening.

Thats good that it has a shelf life after opening. I'll pick some up after we move.

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[Duramaximos]

Couldn't resist the temptation any longer!
Took a few good hits with my palm but she broke loose easier than I expected.

The results are also much better than I expected. Silky smooth finish. Not quite as glassy as some of the pro jobs I've seen.
The parts fit together perfectly. Zero slop, wiggle, or wobble in any direction. Massive improvement over the loose fitting B&C stock.

Erring on the side of caution, I used about 25% more material than I needed to so the clean up might take slightly longer. Otherwise a complete success.

Thanks everyone.

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[Bushrat]

Originally Posted by Duramaximos

The results are also much better than I expected. Silky smooth finish. Not quite as glassy as some of the pro jobs I've seen.

The bedding will only be as 'glassy' as the surface of your receiver, Bedding should mirror the surface texture of the receiver, glassy looking bedding comes from shiny polished receivers. Your bedding looks good, Looks like it should being your receiver and barrel are matt bead blasted.

[Dean2]

Looks great, and particularly good for a first try. The gun will shoot significantly better now that it has a good tight fit to the stock.

[barsik]

great job. the only thing I could add is that bedding a wood stock one should only bed the recoil lug and the rear tang. bedding a wood stock for the full length of the action is just asking for trouble when dealing with moisture and humidity changes. just seal the wood as much as possible and bed where the tang and recoil lug are. the other point is that devcon 10110 makes for a perfect pillar by itself. just make sure to back the screws in and out completely a couple of times during the curing process. congratulations!!!!

[fps plus]

Originally Posted by Duramaximos

Ive decided to place the barreled action into the bedding with minimal tension.
Will be threading the action screws slightly for the purpose of indexing only.

My question is, how do you avoid the screws pushing epoxy into the receiver threads?
I understand the screws and receiver should be liberally coated with release agent but still concerned about pushing a blob of epoxy into those threads.

It is pretty difficult to keep epoxy out of the receiver if using the screws. It’s not a problem though. Simply wax the threads of the receiver ,and wipe a liberal amount of oil inside the receiver and chamber . Once the receiver screws are in a bit of epoxy will push up into the receiver , don’t touch it, let it cure for 3 or so hours until the epoxy gets rubbery then it can easily be broken out of the receiver

[tbrown]

Thinking about doing a bed job. I see lots guys use 10110 putty, but would 10120 liquid be better? I have some 10110 already at home. Thanks for any input


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[birdseye]

My Son is contemplating bedding one of his rifles,it took longer then normal to find a sub MOA recipe.Wondering if a rifle that shoots Sub MOA could lose some accuracy.Or is it a safe bet that it will hold the same or improve even more after being bedded and free floated ?. Hate to go ahead with bedding it if there is a chance of it opening up the accuracy.

[marky_mark]

Bedding shouldn’t Deminish accuracy
If you free float it, it might
But a properly bedded rifle should not shoot worse after it is done

[birdseye]

Thanks mark.

[fps plus]

As the saying goes “ if it ain’t broke don’t fix it .”
That being said it shouldn’t hurt accuracy but there is no guarantee .

[birdseye]

That is the issue,we have bounced it around lots,the accuracy is so good it is scary to change anything.We will def kick it around for a while.

[Duramaximos]

Originally Posted by tbrown

Thinking about doing a bed job. I see lots guys use 10110 putty, but would 10120 liquid be better? I have some 10110 already at home. Thanks for any input


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Just noticed no one responded to your question. Obviously I only have one job under my belt but I will say the consistency of 10110 made it very easy to work with. It stayed exactly where I put it until i was ready to mate up the parts. I think I would dread using something that might flow too easily.

FWIW I know Henry Remple uses Devcon Aluminum putty.