Reloading bench

[rugatika]

Just building a reloading bench this weekend. Plans are for it to be 36" tall (I'm 6'4" and prefer working standing up) and 8 feet long by 30" deep. (minus about 6" for shelving at back of bench.

I'm using 2x8's to frame the top with 3/4 G1S for surface.

Does anyone else reload standing up? Just wondering about the height? Should I paint it or leave it bare wood? Any other suggestions before I break out the screws?

Thanks

[rugatika]

Also...originally I was going to mount the press (RCBS Rockchucker) with lag bolts to the top. Go with 2x4 backing plates under the plywood top? Or go to bolts and washers? Looking at some of the setups I've seen on the net I'm gathering there isn't a ton of pressure used to cycle the press.

[32-40win]

Mark the back edge depth of all the tools you may want to mount there to make sure the rear bolts clear the front support. Only one sheet of 3/4 isn't enough for a press support, it'll bend under sizing force. If you are using a balance beam scale, build a shelf/riser to get it to eye level.

[rugatika]

Originally Posted by 32-40win

Mark the back edge depth of all the tools you may want to mount there to make sure the rear bolts clear the front support. Only one sheet of 3/4 isn't enough for a press support, it'll bend under sizing force. If you are using a balance beam scale, build a shelf/riser to get it to eye level.

Front support will be flush with the plywood surface so I should be back far enough to install the 2x4 backing plates under the press for mounting.

Thanks for the balance tip...I will be using a beam scale that came with the kit...for now anyway.

Thx

[catnthehat]

I have my pres mounted on my work bench in the gun room with the backing underneath the bench and use carriage bolts with the heads on top and the wing nuts below.
often change press but use the same area of the bench.
stand, and my bench is built a tad higher than a normal counter top.
Cat

[rugatika]

Originally Posted by catnthehat

I have my pres mounted on my work bench in the gun room with the backing underneath the bench and use carriage bolts with the heads on top and the wing nuts below.
often change press but use the same area of the bench.
stand, and my bench is built a tad higher than a normal counter top.
Cat

That's what I was wondering if I was going to be high enough. I'm going to be right around counter height. I guess I can raise it up a bit if needed.

Thx

[catnthehat]

Originally Posted by rugatika

That's what I was wondering if I was going to be high enough. I'm going to be right around counter height. I guess I can raise it up a bit if needed.

Thx

Depends on how tall yo are guess.
I a not very tall (5'8"), but find a 36" standard counter too low .
I built mine at 39".
Yo can see in this pic where there is duct tape on top of the counter and a 2X4 backing underneath.That is where place the presses for my rifle cartridges
Cat

[Thunder/FX]

Nice set up Cat

[rugatika]

Originally Posted by catnthehat

Depends on how tall yo are guess.
I a not very tall (5'8"), but find a 36" standard counter too low .
I built mine at 39".
Yo can see in this pic where there is duct tape on top of the counter and a 2X4 backing underneath.That is where place the presses for my rifle cartridges
Cat

Perfect. Thanks Cat. Exactly what I was going to do with a backer for the press. I think I'll recut the legs longer and go for a 40" high bench. (Don't worry...I got a special saw...)

[32-40win]

Ya, I see you were typing your lag bolt install as I was typing. Check all your tools to make sure they will clear a flush front, just in case. Not sure how well lag bolts will work longevity wise. I was just thinking of some PC'd bullets I was sizing, with a Lee pushthru, I was putting some serious effort into that.
That was with the Rockchucker. It is bolted thru like Cat's.

[catnthehat]

My backing fit the rifle presses is actually 2x6 the other one is 2x4 butch they both run at right angles to the bench .
You could make a million with that saw, BTW!!
BTW,carriage bolts and big body washers will work the best!
Cat

[rugatika]

Thanks guys. Gonna go from lags to bolts like you recommend. I won't be switching presses around at all. (only got one)

Cat, the old saw I had kept cutting the boards too short...no matter how many times I cut them.

[roger]

Originally Posted by rugatika

Cat, the old saw I had kept cutting the boards too short...no matter how many times I cut them.

Side story...I was at local lumber yard picking up 2x6x16 and the young fellow asked how I was going to fit them in my shortbox truck.so he suggested to cut them in half..I responded with how would that work because they would be the same length?!?
He looks at me with the meerkat stare...

[qwert]

Originally Posted by rugatika

Just building a reloading bench this weekend. Plans are for it to be 36" tall (I'm 6'4" and prefer working standing up) and 8 feet long by 30" deep. (minus about 6" for shelving at back of bench.

I'm using 2x8's to frame the top with 3/4 G1S for surface.

Does anyone else reload standing up? Just wondering about the height? Should I paint it or leave it bare wood? Any other suggestions before I break out the screws?

IMHO&E,
I am 5'11" tall and only work standing up, I have done a lot of experimentation and have determined that 44" is my best press base mounting height, any lower and I get sore oblique muscles in my lower back that take several days to recover. This height also offers much improved visibility especially when using a turret or progressive press. For your height, I would suggest you try a 48" press base mounting height, (as your arms are likely longer than mine). Mount your press to a 2x6" (or flat iron) and use solid blocking and bar clamps to try different heights.

I have built several loading benches, and am currently using my ver. 3 design (software users and pilots say that "ver 3 is the sweet one".) for an
ALL STEEL press and loading workstation. I displayed a concept sample at the recent Easter Fun Show. It is based on 'universal slotted angle', bolted connection, industrial steel shelving, with a solid 3/8" steel mounting surface attached to the front (and is fully adjustable for height, in 3/4" increments).

I tried 18" deep shelves but found that they were too deep and whatever I needed was always behind something else. I tried 48" wide, but a good load of bullets was a strain on structural capacity, and required placing heavy stuff close to the uprights. My latest system uses 8 levels of 12"x36" shelves for each shelf section and I have 4 - 8' high sections which are solidly attached to the ceiling joists above and are VERY solid when loaded, (there is no bounce or vibration to affect a scale). I keep my tumblers and very heavy lead inventory on the concrete floor underneath the bottom shelf. I prefer galvanized shelving as it is more resistant to chemicals and stored items are more visible.

I have 4 different presses mounted in front of the uprights for maximum rigidity, without blocking shelf access. I also have a small (3 1/2" jaw) steel mechanics swivel base vise mounted past the outside corner. The 44" mounting height provides very good visibility, and is great for working on small parts.

I have 2 different mounting surface designs, one using 3/8" x 6" flat bar, and another using 6" x 3" x 3/8" angle stock. The mount can be built solidly to full workstation width, or in smaller 3' (or 4') modules that allow future expansion as needed for mounting additional presses.

I have mounts for swing arm magnifier lamps attached to each upright so I can locate my lamps for best lighting and magnifier use.

IMHO, steel is a MUCH superior material for most workshop benches, It is more rigid, easier to modify or expand, and can be easily disassembled and moved or sold. IMHO it is also much more elegant and does not require large size material for structural strength but also reduces usable volume.

I am currently building a website (I badly need some knowledgeable and experienced help with the website design). I plan to make all the photos, plans and assembly instructions available for free on request. Any recommendation for a website design guru (hopefully in the Calgary area) will be appreciated, (I fully expect to pay for it).

Good Luck, YMMV.

[rugatika]

Great write up. Thanks Qwert. May as well go higher first I guess and see how I like it.

Thanks.

[qwert]

Originally Posted by rugatika

Great write up. Thanks Qwert. May as well go higher first I guess and see how I like it. Thanks.

In addition to user body size, the most ergonomic base mount height also depends on the press itself. IMHO, the best mounting height allows the user to avoid any need to bend their back sideways when the ram is full up/handle is full down.

The personal height I selected works for Dillon 550-B with fixed handle position and Lee CC presses with adjustable handle position. It was just fortuitous that both press designs have the same down handle position when the Lee CC is adjusted as I prefer, (handle full back when ram is full down). I have not tried the RCBS RC fixed handle position, as it is not my preferred loading press. (I am becoming interested in bullet swaging, and would like to find an RCBS A2 press for its higher force at cam over, but suspect that the handle position will be similar.)

Good Luck, YMMV.

[gunluvr]

Originally Posted by rugatika

Just building a reloading bench this weekend. Plans are for it to be 36" tall (I'm 6'4" and prefer working standing up) and 8 feet long by 30" deep. (minus about 6" for shelving at back of bench.

I'm using 2x8's to frame the top with 3/4 G1S for surface.

Does anyone else reload standing up? Just wondering about the height? Should I paint it or leave it bare wood? Any other suggestions before I break out the screws?

Thanks

I'd cover the benchtop with a smooth laminate. Makes cleaning up spilled powder etc. a whole lot easier.

[OldNewGuy]

Originally Posted by gunluvr

I'd cover the benchtop with a smooth laminate. Makes cleaning up spilled powder etc. a whole lot easier.

I had the same idea (smooth top) but instead of laminate I went for 1/8" smooth finish pressboard - cheap and easy to trim exactly as needed. Secured it to two 3/4" pieces of plywood as my benchtop - extremely stable and strong. The base plywood is held to the bench frame, the top plywood is secured to the base plywood with 1 1/8" screws countersunk for a smooth surface.
The pressboard is secured to the top plywood with 1/2" brad nails. If the pressboard gets marred up or damaged, it takes less than a minute to lift off the plywood surface (I scrolled around the press mounting bases to avoid having to take off the press if I needed to change the smoother pressboard surface) and only about $6 - $8 to drop a new one on. I've had to do it once, due to spilling a can of paint onto my bench top - subsequent rule: nothing on reloading bench except reloading "stuff".

Same results, different approaches.

O.N.G.

[catnthehat]

Originally Posted by gunluvr

I'd cover the benchtop with a smooth laminate. Makes cleaning up spilled powder etc. a whole lot easier.

If you look close you will see that my counter is in fact made of laminate!
It makes for a fantastic surface !
The edges is finished in a contrasting trim .
No screws it nail in the top of mine, the laminate is glued to the plywood top.
Cat

[260 Rem]

Tall bench top is good. Standing for most operations except weighing powder with beam scale ... so use regular chair and it puts the beam at a nice height to see the hash marks. I have two presses mounted so I can use one for decapping and the other for seating. Used vinyl tile for bench top which would be easy to replace if it gets buggered in one spot. I have lots of high counter space which is also great for stand-up tinkering / cleaning.
Edit: One of my presses is actually attached to a "mini-shelf" on a corner wall... am far from home today but will post a pic later.

[silver]

I prefer to work standing up as well. I am just over the 6 foot mark. I went and measured my bench and the top is 48 inches from the floor. That height seems to be okay for me, I think a 36 inch would be a killer.

[silver]

I have an idea, why don't you build a bench of different heights out of two by fours and scrap plywood. Use it for a while and you will find the height that suits you. Then you can take the screws out and use the material for building your good bench.

[brewster29]

I have built a bunch of work tables and benches for our maintenance shop.
If you are 6-4 you will want the table top to be at least 44"...measure from floor to your elbow, and keep it about 4-6" lower than that. Standard kitchen counters run 36" and I don't think you would want to work at that level.

[Snort]

I also stand up at my bench. I built the bench height to where it is comfortable to work on(42" rings a bell) and then had to space my presses up to where running the handles was comfortable(One is mounted 3" above the bench top and the other is about 10" above bench top). My top is built out of 2"x6"s and then a sheet of 3/4" plywood on top to give a nice smooth surface.

I would suggest doing a little mock up before doing the build to check your heights.

[RancheroMan]

Build the NRMA bench. It's 43" to the top and a great working height while standing (I'm 5'11")

The bench is well thought out, sturdy, great storage, and has a built in powder scale shelf. A PDF of the plans, materials list, and cutting instructions are freely available on the net.

PM me if you want them e-mailed to you.

[rugatika]

Thanks for all the input guys. Finished building it last night. Just over 40" high with a Pine plywood top. The press is mounted on a 2x8 so that adds another inch and a half. If I ever start reloading in massive amounts I'll likely add a press stand or something similar.

I'll see if I can't upload a pic later on. (while it's still kinda clean)

[BernieL]

My "hobby bench"
Two rows of veritas t slot tracks cut into the top 4 inches apart.
Front row of track screwed directly into front 2x4.
Tracks from Lee valley in Calgary. I bought four 36in tracks for 5/16 blots
Counter top from ikea.
1.5in thick by 25.2in deep by 96 in wide
Cut the length down to 72in and cut the excess in blocks to mount the accessory us
My loading press can be installed and removed quickly to the top.
Any thing can be moved to any position on the rails
A small vice is on the way
Shelves/ cupboard is in the future.
The way I figured out the height is I measured the height of my hands with my arms straight down and my elbows bent at 90 degrees forward.
I like everyone's ideas so far.
Two padded bar stools and the beer fridge is steps away for guests 😀image.jpg

[qwert]

Originally Posted by RancheroMan

Build the NRMA bench. It's 43" to the top and a great working height while standing (I'm 5'11")

The bench is well thought out, sturdy, great storage, and has a built in powder scale shelf. A PDF of the plans, materials list, and cutting instructions are freely available on the net.

PM me if you want them e-mailed to you.

https://www.shotgunsportsmagazine.co...ench_plans.pdf

The NRMA bench is a perfect example of the a classic home workshop project from the 1950s. Multitudes of similar projects filled magazines like popular workshop, woodworker, mechanics, etc. Many were produced by the manufacturer's associations of the then reasonably new technology of plywood. Many were types of 'built-in furniture for the many new subdivision houses built in great numbers, as well as all types of boats.

I also suggest carefully calculating the internal shelf area and volume, if you have or plan to have any significant quantity of tooling or components, I suspect you will need to also plan for (much) more storage space.

Before deciding to build this project, I suggest carefully calculating the cost of materials, particularly furniture grade veneer plywood. Good luck finding the inexpensive 1950s high grade 2x4 & 2x6 lumber suitable for furniture building, most of the high quality current production is primarily for export and the commonly available stuff is seldom straight, or dry, and is usually knotty & waned.

I note that the plans do not mention the use of or cost of any glue, and they do not specify the use of the specialized screws designed to prevent splitting the plywood end grain, (I suggest Conformat or similar screws designed for particle board, which also require the purchase of an expensive and very hard drill (which will fracture if you drop it on a hard floor)). I would also suggest the use of compressed wood 'biscuits', which also require a specialized 'biscuit slot cutter' tool. I suspect that failure to use solidly glued, screwed and biscuited joints will result in loose joints from wood shrinkage and repetitive loading. Solid construction will not facilitate moving.

After calculating the total material and labor cost required, (including the additional storage needed), I suspect you will find that 'universal slotted angle' steel shelving and an easily fabricated 6" wide solid steel press mount is a relative bargain, with the added benefit of using less floor space. Careful shopping for good quality used shelving can result in some surprisingly good bargains.

Good Luck, YMMV.

[Grizzly Adams]

I'm using 2x8's to frame the top with 3/4 G1S for surface.

I used 1" fir plywood, much more rigid when you lean on the press.

Grizz

[260 Rem]

Originally Posted by 260 Rem

Tall bench top is good. Standing for most operations except weighing powder with beam scale ... so use regular chair and it puts the beam at a nice height to see the hash marks. I have two presses mounted so I can use one for decapping and the other for seating. Used vinyl tile for bench top which would be easy to replace if it gets buggered in one spot. I have lots of high counter space which is also great for stand-up tinkering / cleaning.
Edit: One of my presses is actually attached to a "mini-shelf" on a corner wall... am far from home today but will post a pic later.

Pic inbound