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03-09-2014, 07:37 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,711
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Broken Easy Out
Broke an easy out off and tried drilling it out with no success...anyone have any recommendations on how to get it out?
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03-09-2014, 07:39 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Innisfail
Posts: 514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pikeslayer22
Broke an easy out off and tried drilling it out with no success...anyone have any recommendations on how to get it out?
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What style of easy out? Try and loosen it up or turn it backwards with a pin punch, drift, or chisel.
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03-09-2014, 07:41 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Behind my Sako
Posts: 1,017
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I am guessing...
That you home it down in the hole and can't get to the top of the broken part?
So no chance of welding on to it an backing that out?
Some one here will have an answer.
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03-09-2014, 07:49 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Innisfail
Posts: 514
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Might be able to grind it out with a die grinder and a good carbide burr.
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03-09-2014, 07:51 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: High Level
Posts: 2,237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Douglas N
Might be able to grind it out with a die grinder and a good carbide burr.
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This works if you can get at it.
This certainly won't be fun.
I have had success blowing some styles out with a torch, but it isn't easy.
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03-09-2014, 07:51 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Alberta
Posts: 4,279
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What size and in what?
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03-09-2014, 07:53 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,711
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Thanks guys...it's broke off flush so no chance of chisel or punch..it's on a newer sled so not sure about welding as it has a lot of electronics...will look at the dye grinder option.
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03-09-2014, 07:54 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: medicine hat
Posts: 108
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Depending on how long a piece you got broke off, you could try grinding it with a cardide burr in a die grinder and then drill it out with a carbide tipped drill bit.I just use the drill bits that are used for drilling concrete or cinder block.They are fairly cheap and have worked for me as good as anything.Don't expect great results though as even with a machine shop full of equipement it still takes me at least 3 drill bits and a lot of cursing.
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03-09-2014, 07:54 PM
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Banned
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: In a tree near ALTA
Posts: 3,061
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pikeslayer22
Broke an easy out off and tried drilling it out with no success...anyone have any recommendations on how to get it out?
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"Easy-Out" TM*,,,,, sounded really easy didn't it ?
what are you working on ? exhaust manifold bolts on aluminum cly heads ??
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03-09-2014, 07:55 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: north of edm
Posts: 930
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If you know anyone that works in a machine shop ask them for a carbide center drill. If you where closer I could set you up with one. I have removed too many in my day because of trusty old mechanics .
LS
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03-09-2014, 08:02 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,711
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Exhaust valve bolts on a polaris sled and yeah aluminum head...thx a lot for the ideas guys!
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03-09-2014, 08:07 PM
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Banned
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: In a tree near ALTA
Posts: 3,061
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pikeslayer22
Exhaust valve bolts on a polaris sled and yeah aluminum head...thx a lot for the ideas guys!
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plug weld on a steel washer to the broken stud/easy-out, then plug weld a steel nut to the washer is your best bet, let briefly cool, but not cold before attempting to reversing out the stud
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03-09-2014, 08:23 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Alberta
Posts: 2,997
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Small needle nosed pliers and trying to turn it backwards always worked for me as long as it's not the spiral kind.
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03-09-2014, 08:35 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Calgary
Posts: 570
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If your keep trying to drill it out don't go continuous just give the drill little bersts I guess is the best way to put it your drill bits probley burning out and every time the easy out part gets hot it's Harding .good luck
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03-09-2014, 08:38 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Maidstone Sask
Posts: 2,796
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Douglas N
Might be able to grind it out with a die grinder and a good carbide burr.
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One time I was tapping an engine block for a helicoil for a starter mount, the first one wasn't bad but the second one snapped the tap. I tried a couple of other choices and since they didn't work, I ended up pulling the engine and using a die grinder and a carbide cutter to cut out the tap.
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03-09-2014, 08:45 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Innisfail
Posts: 514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silver
One time I was tapping an engine block for a helicoil for a starter mount, the first one wasn't bad but the second one snapped the tap. I tried a couple of other choices and since they didn't work, I ended up pulling the engine and using a die grinder and a carbide cutter to cut out the tap.
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Tap extractors can be pretty handy too. Each of these situations is unique and presents its own set of challenges.
http://www.waltontools.com/products/extractr.htm
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03-09-2014, 08:47 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: east of edmonton
Posts: 153
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If you can get a die grinder on it cut a slot in it and use a screw driver to back it out. I have done this a few times, may have to give it a couple of taps with a hammer to loosen it up. Fishhawk
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03-09-2014, 09:01 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Crowsnest Pass
Posts: 2,392
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tap
got any left hand drill bits? they are handy in times like this.
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03-09-2014, 09:14 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,443
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elkdump
plug weld a steel washer to the broken stud/easy-out, then plug weld a steel nut to the washer is your best bet, let briefly cool, but not cold before attempting to reversing out the stud
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IMHO, This is THE best solution. Once you learn how to perform this procedure you will never use another 'easy????out' of any kind.
It is Much faster that drilling a broken bolt, and the heat will shrink the broken bolt and make it much easier to screw out. For small sized bolts it is often best to fab a large washer with a small hole. It is easier to weld the nut on the outside, as it is often difficult to get a good weld in the bottom of a small nut. Occasionally it requires a couple of tries to get a good weld between the washer and the broken bolt.
Use standard procedures to prevent damage to electronics. Disconnect battery and place the ground as close to the weld as possible, remove computer CPU if possible.
Good Luck, YMMV
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03-09-2014, 09:18 PM
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Fort McMurray
Posts: 2,139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elkdump
plug weld on a steel washer to the broken stud/easy-out, then plug weld a steel nut to the washer is your best bet, let briefly cool, but not cold before attempting to reversing out the stud
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qwert
IMHO, This is THE best solution. Once you learn how to perform this procedure you will never use another 'easy????out' of any kind.
It is Much faster that drilling a broken bolt, and the heat will shrink the broken bolt and make it much easier to screw out. For small sized bolts it is often best to fab a large washer with a small hole. It is easier to weld the nut on the outside, as it is often difficult to get a good weld in the bottom of a small nut. Occasionally it requires a couple of tries to get a good weld between the washer and the broken bolt.
Use standard procedures to prevent damage to electronics. Disconnect battery and place the ground as close to the weld as possible, remove computer CPU if possible.
Good Luck, YMMV
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Best two pieces of advice in this thread.
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03-09-2014, 09:29 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Maidstone Sask
Posts: 2,796
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elkdump
plug weld on a steel washer to the broken stud/easy-out, then plug weld a steel nut to the washer is your best bet, let briefly cool, but not cold before attempting to reversing out the stud
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I have done that a number of times, HOWEVER if the stud is broken off below the surface, that is beyond my ability.
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03-09-2014, 09:38 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,711
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It's broken off pretty much flush
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03-09-2014, 09:43 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 77
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If it's a fancy brand easy out, your snap-on or what have you, it'll be really hard metal. If you're lucky get an air hammer in there and it should bust into lots of little pieces. If it's a cheapo princess auto style, you'll have a harder time doing that, it'll be a pain but drilling out should work. Sharpen your drill bits first though.
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03-09-2014, 09:44 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: St Albert
Posts: 809
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I've had the same happen. I got lucky and was able to grind the head of the bolt flush. Got the other bolts off and when the other part is pulled off you have more access to get that thing out. If you could grind a slot in it you might be able to back it out and try a larger easy out.
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03-09-2014, 09:54 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Camrose, AB
Posts: 73
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If you can heat the living poop out of the easy out without damaging anything around it, and then let it cool normally, it will take the temper out of the steel and make for easier drilling. Might not work in aluminum head as you don't want to distort the head or melt any seals in it, but if it's ok that way it works really well.
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03-09-2014, 10:14 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 27
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Good luck buds - hope you get it out.
My 2 cents - Take your remaining EZ outs and throw them in the garbage
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03-09-2014, 11:19 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Camrose
Posts: 2,359
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mekanik
Best two pieces of advice in this thread.
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Good advice, except the part that heat will shrink the bolt, it will make it expand. You want a cold bolt and warm/hot aluminum head.
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03-10-2014, 12:07 AM
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Banned
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: peace country
Posts: 1,735
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elkdump
plug weld on a steel washer to the broken stud/easy-out, then plug weld a steel nut to the washer is your best bet, let briefly cool, but not cold before attempting to reversing out the stud
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This^^^^
Easy outs work only if the stub is fairly loose in the tread.
If the bolt broke off when trying to remove it an easy out wont work ..period.
Last edited by bison; 03-10-2014 at 12:12 AM.
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03-10-2014, 12:07 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Morinville
Posts: 898
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bloopbloob
Good advice, except the part that heat will shrink the bolt, it will make it expand. You want a cold bolt and warm/hot aluminum head.
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Disagree,
Bolt expands when heated, but after it has cooled, usually loosens up.
I never attempt to drill an easy out or tap. It's possible, but too time consuming. That steel is harder than the top of gods head. Sounds like you need an experienced welder to help ya out.
Hears to hoping you never do that again!
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03-10-2014, 06:01 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Camrose
Posts: 45,139
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Quote:
Good advice, except the part that heat will shrink the bolt, it will make it expand. You want a cold bolt and warm/hot aluminum head.
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Once the bolt cools and shrinks, it will come out much easier than when it was hot. Some penetrating oil, may help as well.
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