Broken Easy Out - Page 2

Flatlandliver · #31 03-10-2014, 07:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by qwert

IMHO, This is THE best solution. Once you learn how to perform this procedure you will never use another 'easy????out' of any kind.

It is Much faster that drilling a broken bolt, and the heat will shrink the broken bolt and make it much easier to screw out. For small sized bolts it is often best to fab a large washer with a small hole. It is easier to weld the nut on the outside, as it is often difficult to get a good weld in the bottom of a small nut. Occasionally it requires a couple of tries to get a good weld between the washer and the broken bolt.

Use standard procedures to prevent damage to electronics. Disconnect battery and place the ground as close to the weld as possible, remove computer CPU if possible.

Good Luck, YMMV

This works, I use a bolt and grind a taper on the threaded end, then weld that to the broken stud (tig works best). If you melt candle wax around it while cooling it seems to help. If that fails, take the head off and have a machine shop mill it out with carbide tooling. Good luck. If your near Airdrie send me a pm if you need it milled out.

Jims71duster · #32 03-10-2014, 10:45 AM

I may have missed something here but at this point no one knows what style of easy out we are dealing with so how could any of us give any advise that helps at all. Both kinds use a separate approach? If its a screw type then it needs to be turned back out. I have managed to drill an indent in them and silvers solder something to its end and wiggle it as you try slowly to turn it back out. If its the square kind then you will not turn it out with anything. Try an awl and poke it in on the sides and wiggle it around on all four sides until it starts to loosen and it should work it's way out as it wiggles then try a magnet or needle nose pliers. I have used the silver solder on these too. Once out remember that steel will always gald to aluminum so use anti seize all the time even on spark plugs.

Dacotensis · #33 03-10-2014, 12:15 PM

Had this happen last year with a tiller.

I ended up dragging it over to the welder and welding on a bolt.

You know, this would be much more fun if you posted pictures.
Also, load up your beer fridge and then post your address on this thread.

No doubt you will have many welders and mechanics standing around cursing and telling each other what to do.

Let's see a pic, and where do you live?

I just shipped a miller 225 thunderbolt to Dog river. Are you near him or me?

Flatlandliver · #34 03-10-2014, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jims71duster

I may have missed something here but at this point no one knows what style of easy out we are dealing with so how could any of us give any advise that helps at all. Both kinds use a separate approach? If its a screw type then it needs to be turned back out. I have managed to drill an indent in them and silvers solder something to its end and wiggle it as you try slowly to turn it back out. If its the square kind then you will not turn it out with anything. Try an awl and poke it in on the sides and wiggle it around on all four sides until it starts to loosen and it should work it's way out as it wiggles then try a magnet or needle nose pliers. I have used the silver solder on these too. Once out remember that steel will always gald to aluminum so use anti seize all the time even on spark plugs.

You can also buy left hand carbide tipped bits, they don't work bad. If you end up making a big mess helicoil it. http://www.bamanufacturing.com/page_62.htm

pikeslayer22 · #35 03-10-2014, 01:24 PM

Again thanks for all the tips! I guess i did fail to mention its the Square easy out. Going to try the dye grinder first and then go to the welding approach...Just worried about the electrical/computer system, but will make sure to unplug every thing

YAFORDDIESEL · #36 03-10-2014, 06:48 PM

Hi,
is the easy out a four sided of a spiral flute style?

fish gunner · #37 03-10-2014, 06:54 PM

Left handed carbide drill bit . Most often you wont need to driil out much and the easy out will come out . It is very important to get a good center punch centered on the easy out. Welding is next if suitable access is available. Good luck

YAFORDDIESEL · #38 03-10-2014, 06:59 PM

blind hole ....

have you tried to blow compressor air into the blind hole and then immediately after that add some(WD40 Tapping oil) oil then blow compressed air again. then check to see if there''s any movement of the easy out. and if possible have gravity working with you to allow easy out to slide out ....

if your using a carbide bit, check rotations. on again check to see it the flute are starting to relax in blind hole

YAFORDDIESEL · #39 03-10-2014, 07:03 PM

if your easy out is square flutes. there will be a space at bottom of hole this with fast moving air might move easy out (oil will help once easy out starts to slide)....

bison · #40 03-10-2014, 07:07 PM

I wonder why people keep calling these contraptions 'EASY" outs seeing that they cause on the average more trouble than good.
Most backyard "mechanics" don't know how and when to use them, the result is in the first post.

erkel1 · #41 03-10-2014, 07:21 PM

A lot of times at my shop we end up trying to get these out for people.If they would have brought it when just the bolt or stud was broke off would probably remove for nothing or a dozen cold ones.Two pieces of advice; if the bolt broke off because of a shearing force sideways eg. dropped part and it broke bolt an easy out may work.If you broke the bolt trying to get it out because it was seized then chances are the easy out isnt going to get it.The other thing is if you are determined to try an easy out do not use a crescent wrench,use a tap handle and apply the force evenly. good luck

elkdump · #42 03-10-2014, 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by silver

I have done that a number of times, HOWEVER if the stud is broken off below the surface, that is beyond my ability.

operated my own independent auto shop 20+ years, I have done thousands of broken studs in aluminum heads, several new car dealerships locally sent me all their most nasty broken studs to be removed, as their factory trained techs would try drilling and removing studs with easy outs(lol) and inevitably end up wrecking the cly head, thus requiring a NEW cyl head job,I have seen as many as 5 broken exhaust studs out of 8 on just 1 side of a V8, have had many that were near 1/2 inch below head surface where they were broken off, I got them out,

I liked doing broken bolts in aluminum heads, easy money !

qwert · #43 03-10-2014, 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by silver

I have done that a number of times, HOWEVER if the stud is broken off below the surface, that is beyond my ability.

There is no doubt that it is more difficult to weld to a bolt broken below the surface.

I have had good luck by using a short length of tubing or pipe with the end shaped to fit the broken bolt. It is seldom possible to see the arc with this method and the weld must be made by guess and sound. I have had best luck using small sized electrodes. xx10 or xx11 would be my first choice, but the heat must be quite high to avoid sticking and you should be prepared to disconnect the electrode quickly in case of sticking. Work fast and do not be tentative, push the electrode and keep a very short arc. As in all welding (and painting and most other work) preparation is the biggest factor in success.

Good Luck, YMMV

silver · #44 03-17-2014, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by qwert

There is no doubt that it is more difficult to weld to a bolt broken below the surface.

I have had good luck by using a short length of tubing or pipe with the end shaped to fit the broken bolt. It is seldom possible to see the arc with this method and the weld must be made by guess and sound. I have had best luck using small sized electrodes. xx10 or xx11 would be my first choice, but the heat must be quite high to avoid sticking and you should be prepared to disconnect the electrode quickly in case of sticking. Work fast and do not be tentative, push the electrode and keep a very short arc. As in all welding (and painting and most other work) preparation is the biggest factor in success.

Good Luck, YMMV

I have been thinking about this a bit, if I run into this situation and it wasn't too bad, I would take a piece of bar stock, inch wide, 1/8" thick by whatever length. I would use a press and put a deep dimple in it. I would drill a hole in the bottom of the dimple and see if that would work.