Computer router help

[SDKiller]

If there is anyone that is short of a computer genius could you please PM me. I need help getting the router to keep working. I will gladly pay the right person to come and set this stuff up and make it work properly.

[CaberTosser]

Silverdoctor is the man for that job:

http://www.outdoorsmenforum.ca/member.php?u=28636

I'm sure there's other IT guys or people just good with computers on here, I just can't recall their names (so no offense intended fellows, don't virus me )

[silverdoctor]

Originally Posted by SDKiller

If there is anyone that is short of a computer genius could you please PM me. I need help getting the router to keep working. I will gladly pay the right person to come and set this stuff up and make it work properly.

What's the trouble you're having?

What is the make and model of router you have?

[SDKiller]

Thank you guys for the reply's. While I posted this I was on hold with Linksys in the Phillipines. After 20 min. I finally got someone who I think may have corrected the problem. I have a new EA6400 router and xplorenet satellite. Anyway the tech guy made some changes to the router settings and this may have been the problem I dont know but the last month wifi comes and goes all the time. 70% not working. Thanks again for the reply and I would like to keep in touch with silverdoctor if possible cause I know I need some computer's worked on and if that is something you would consider, lets talk..


thanks

[trouter]

Just incase router acts up again. I found my acer laptops wieless adapter was acting up (kept dropping signal) and finally died. Bought a 10$ mini usb wireless adapter and have not had any drop signal yet. Fought with router numerous times only to find out it was computer.

[CaberTosser]

I was proud of my new skill last week, I bought a crimper and started terminating my Cat5E cabling. I ran cabling to every room on the house during our build, but had been running on the wireless network for the first year and a half in the house. The thing is that my signal was often weak, probably due to the foil double layer bubble wrap lining my joists for the floor heat shielding the main floor from the modem in the basement. Whenever the microwave ran my service was interrupted . Now its all good, but there's still lots of wires left to terminate.

[silverdoctor]

When people get routers, they tend to set a name and leave the rest default. If you have many people around you with wireless, you may be sharing a channel with one or more - and there could be hidden networks interfering. The default for many routers is for the unit to pick a channel to use, doesn't mean that it will pick a channel that isn't in use.

There is a program called vistumbler, it's free and does the job of surveying any wireless networks in reach. Give it a try, look at your channel and see if anyone is sharing. If it is, change it. http://www.vistumbler.net

Bear in mind also that wireless networks run on 2.4 and 5.8 Ghz (typically). These are free bands, so items like cordless phones run in the same frequency, as do other wireless systems. They can create interferences.

[silverdoctor]

Originally Posted by CaberTosser

I was proud of my new skill last week, I bought a crimper and started terminating my Cat5E cabling. I ran cabling to every room on the house during our build, but had been running on the wireless network for the first year and a half in the house. The thing is that my signal was often weak, probably due to the foil double layer bubble wrap lining my joists for the floor heat shielding the main floor from the modem in the basement. Whenever the microwave ran my service was interrupted . Now its all good, but there's still lots of wires left to terminate.

As long as you get the color codes correct, you can't beat the wired system. It's a good skill to have.

[jroc.xvl]

+1 for running cat5e. Wireless just doesn't cut it anymore. The 2.4 GHz spectrum is way too crowded. 5GHz is better as far as congestion is concerned but it typically doesn't have range of 2.4GHz. I have found in the past that Ethernet over power line adapters work quite well if you don't want to punch holes in your walls to run cables. Just my $0.02.

[CptnBlues63]

Originally Posted by silverdoctor

When people get routers, they tend to set a name and leave the rest default. If you have many people around you with wireless, you may be sharing a channel with one or more - and there could be hidden networks interfering. The default for many routers is for the unit to pick a channel to use, doesn't mean that it will pick a channel that isn't in use.

There is a program called vistumbler, it's free and does the job of surveying any wireless networks in reach. Give it a try, look at your channel and see if anyone is sharing. If it is, change it. http://www.vistumbler.net

Bear in mind also that wireless networks run on 2.4 and 5.8 Ghz (typically). These are free bands, so items like cordless phones run in the same frequency, as do other wireless systems. They can create interferences.

Just to add to the above....if possible, you want to buy a dual band router that has both bands running simultaneously Not all do. So if at all possible, get one that is simultaneous.

Definitely check for the least used channel in the 2.4GHz range and set that radio there. 5 GHz shouldn't be a problem, yet.

Do use WPA2 encryption and a complex key.

Keep in mind, SOHO routers are not very robust and will frequently lose their marbles for no particular reason and stop functioning correctly. In most cases, recycling the power (ie: unplug, wait 5 - 10 seconds, then plug back in) will usually return them to normal functioning. If they begin to lose their marbles with more frequency, then it's time to replace the unit.

Wired connections will always outperform wireless. So if you're an avid gamer, you definitely want your gaming rig connected to your SOHO router with a cable.

Lastly, do follow either the A or B standard when punching cables and test/certify the cables when you're done. Don't rely on those cheap blinking light testers, they're useless and frequently OK a cable that isn't pooched. It's not reasonable to drop $500 to $1,000 on a tester you're only going to use once so call around to some cable installers and get quotes on testing how ever many cables you have. It shouldn't cost too much and is well worth your time to do.