Brass is too tight. Need help please

[NINJABABY]

I am having a really hard time with the ones fired brass.

I resize it and put primers in it and now when I close the bolt with the empty Brass, (no powder or bullet) the bolt is super tight.

Can you please advise me how to fix it? Thanks

And let me know what doing wrong thanks

[Dean2]

If you put the once fired brass into the gun and close the bolt, does it close easy or hard. Is the case a belted magnum? What cartridge and make of brass. How are you sizing the brass, what make of die, FL or Neck. If you pm me your phone number I can probably walk you through it easier than typing it out.

[elkhunter11]

Was the brass fired in the rifle that you are trying to chamber it in? When the handle is fully lowered, is the shellholder tight against the die?

[Ebrand]

Try it in the chamber of the gun you are shooting it out of.

Check your die set up.

If that does not solve the issue screw the die in ( down ) an 1/8 of a turn and resize until things work. Use proper amount of lube.

Pull the decap pin out if you don’t want to waste the primers while you get squared up.

Had to do this with a buddy’s 300WM. Took a a few tries but everything worked out perfectly. He just had a very tight chamber.

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by Ebrand

Try it in the chamber of the gun you are shooting it out of.

Check your die set up.

If that does not solve the issue screw the die in ( down ) an 1/8 of a turn and resize until things work. Use proper amount of lube.

Pull the decap pin out if you don’t want to waste the primers while you get squared up.

Had to do this with a buddy’s 300WM. Took a a few tries but everything worked out perfectly. He just had a very tight chamber.

First he needs to determine if the shellholder is tight against the die, with a case in the die, and the handle fully lowered. If the shellholder is already tight against the die, then no amount of preload will help, and you will eventually damage something if you try and force the handle all the way down. The biggest issue that I have seen, is that people adjust the die with no case in place, and then a weak press flexes, and there is a gap between the shellholder and die, when they try to size an actual case.

[barsik]

if you aren't using a bit of lube inside the case neck the case neck expander button will pull the case shoulder enough to cause chambering issues. best to use a dry graphite lube because conventional lube will cause powder to stick inside the case neck. just a guess.

[Ebrand]

Originally Posted by elkhunter11

First he needs to determine if the shellholder is tight against the die, with a case in the die, and the handle fully lowered. If the shellholder is already tight against the die, then no amount of preload will help, and you will eventually damage something if you try and force the handle all the way down. The biggest issue that I have seen, is that people adjust the die with no case in place, and then a weak press flexes, and there is a gap between the shellholder and die, when they try to size an actual case.

I am assuming that he is smart enough to realize that if he is having to really force the press that something above what I have suggested will need to be done.

I have heard people suggest shaving the top of the shell holder. I did not suggest that because if they is needed something more than checking for proper die set and being firm in resizing is needed.

If you have to force things and everything has been checked for proper set up and the simple solution ( without excess force ) is not the answer.

Beyond the simple solution I offered that worked for me I don’t know what else to offer.

Pardon me for assuming.

[Pathfinder76]

You aren’t sizing it enough. Shoulders will migrate forward before the go back quite often.

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by Ebrand

I am assuming that he is smart enough to realize that if he is having to really force the press that something above what I have suggested will need to be done.

I have heard people suggest shaving the top of the shell holder. I did not suggest that because if they is needed something more than checking for proper die set and being firm in resizing is needed.

If you have to force things and everything has been checked for proper set up and the simple solution ( without excess force ) is not the answer.

Beyond the simple solution I offered that worked for me I don’t know what else to offer.

Pardon me for assuming.

I mention actually verifying that the shellholder is tight against the die with the case in place, because some presses are not overly rigid, and will flex . So while there may not be a gap with no case in place, a gap can appear when actually trying to size a case.
As for grinding down the shellholder, I have seen instances where cases fired in a large chamber, won't chamber in a minimum spec chamber, after being FL sized because of springback of the shoulder. And this is with the shellholder tight against the die, in a Rockchucker set up to cam over. In a situation like this, you can either purchase specialty shellholders, or you can grind a few thousandths off of the shellholder.

[32-40win]

If, you are actually only partial instead of full length sizing, a case can grow in length, which can stop it from chambering, the case shoulder needs to be in contact with the die to prevent that from happening. Think of squeezing a balloon. An unlubed case neck can do that too, as it can pull the neck, as can the expander button, which in some situations, in combination, is hard enough to pull the shoulder a bit.

Once shot and sized cases that you bought somewhere, may need to be sized some more, unsized have to be FLS'd to chamber in most other guns.

Did you trim the cases? Did they need to be trimmed? That'll stop them too, if they are long enough, not a really common issue though.

If the cases came out of your gun, then you are screwing them up when sizing them, a fired case will chamber in the gun it was fired in, consider that.

In some situations, the issue could possibly be the shellholder, sometimes just using a different one, or a different brand cures the issue, because it is a bit shorter from the base that the case sits on to the top where the die stops. There are also shellholders (Redding) that are sold as a set, that are designed in increments that can cure that issue. They can also cure an issue with actually having a long die body.

Having a case comparator and bullet comparator set, can make figuring out what is wrong, far easier to see.
Sometimes, you could need a micrometer to check case expansion near the base, it can happen that the gun that shot the brass you have, had an extra large chamber and the die can't size it, that can be where a small base die gets involved. Also handy for confirming problems as to why primer pockets loosen, at times.

Then you get into magnum cases and PRC cases that produce clickers, which doesn't appear to be your issue ,and involves special dies or a chamber issue.

[Homesteader]

Had issues with a WSM once upon a time. I had to take my shell holder and polish it down with compound until it gave me few thou off, allowing the case to get sized that smidge more. I went slow and kept checking till I got cases that fit every time. Was a Browning X-bolt. Shot like a house on fire but I never warmed up to that trigger.

[catnthehat]

Originally Posted by Homesteader

Had issues with a WSM once upon a time. I had to take my shell holder and polish it down with compound until it gave me few thou off, allowing the case to get sized that smidge more. I went slow and kept checking till I got cases that fit every time. Was a Browning X-bolt. Shot like a house on fire but I never warmed up to that trigger.

That was very typical of some.of the WSM issues when they first came out .
Cat

[leo]

I bought a few bags of “once fired” brass at a gun show once. Took it home and ran it through my die with ample pressure and it still wouldn’t chamber. Checked the case head and it was expanded way over normal tolerance. Primer pockets were loose too. Once fired or not, it was way over pressure for that brand of brass. I don’t buy used brass from unknown people anymore.

[freeride]

Measure the shoulders of the brass. Resize a bit and try again.

[Pathfinder76]

Originally Posted by leo

I bought a few bags of “once fired” brass at a gun show once. Took it home and ran it through my die with ample pressure and it still wouldn’t chamber. Checked the case head and it was expanded way over normal tolerance. Primer pockets were loose too. Once fired or not, it was way over pressure for that brand of brass. I don’t buy used brass from unknown people anymore.

I’m assuming this is once fired in his rifle. But if not, you are absolutely correct. Throw it in a lake. The deeper the better.

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by leo

I bought a few bags of “once fired” brass at a gun show once. Took it home and ran it through my die with ample pressure and it still wouldn’t chamber. Checked the case head and it was expanded way over normal tolerance. Primer pockets were loose too. Once fired or not, it was way over pressure for that brand of brass. I don’t buy used brass from unknown people anymore.

The biggest scam going in reloading is likely "once fired" brass. Vendors run it through steel pins and it shines like new, and without actually measuring, you have no idea if it is once fired, or 10x fired.l, but they still want $1 each or so for it. If I don't know the history of the brass, I don't accept that it really is once fired. I never buy used brass for myself, or pick up range brass for myself, but I have purchased used brass from friends, when other friends needed brass, and couldn't find any new brass. I just bought some 7mmremmag cases from a friend for another friend, and I am paying $100 for 160 cases, but at least I know that it really is once fired.

[GrandSlam]

If you have a micrometer, measure the brass just above the head and compare to factory ammo (if also available)

[birdseye]

Id try to set you FL sizer dye,sounds like over Cam it a bit more and keep setting the dye deeper until the brass fits and the bolt closes without issue.Good luck hope you can solve it quickly

[Dean2]

Issue has been solved. 7 PRC brass was once fired in his gun. Chambered fine after firing but before FL sizing. After FL sizing brass of course gets longer and was a hair too long at 2.274-2.278. Max brass length is specified as 2.280. Chamber is cut a little tight with a slightly short end of neck junction with lead, which should be at 2.290 but obviously isn't. Once brass was trimmed to Trim length. 2.260, fits fine.

https://saami.org/wp-content/uploads...06-16-rev1.pdf

[Ebrand]

I had also assumed the brass was properly prepared a measured.

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by Ebrand

I had also assumed the brass was properly prepared a measured.

I assumed the same, I would have started by measuring case length, and trimming to trim length, so I assumed that this was already done.

[Dean2]

Originally Posted by Ebrand

I had also assumed the brass was properly prepared a measured.

The brass was properly prepped and measured. All cases where below max case length, and well below what should have bound on the chambers neck to lead junction. It really isn't all that easy to figure out that a completely in specification case being tight in the chamber. Neck shoulder junction, shoulder datum, rim widthand thickness, and web were all within specifications per the drawing, as was max case length. Sizing it more would have eventually solved the problem, but at the cost of really excessive head space once you pushed the should far enough back to shorten the case .015.

The reason we figured it out was by measuring the case in detail, then starting with the easiest fix, shortening the overall length. That should not have been required if the chamber was cut to SAAMI specs.

[32-40win]

Factory gun or one custom built? That is an uncommon problem, be a bit of a headscratcher for many people.

[H380]

Originally Posted by barsik

if you aren't using a bit of lube inside the case neck the case neck expander button will pull the case shoulder enough to cause chambering issues. best to use a dry graphite lube because conventional lube will cause powder to stick inside the case neck. just a guess.

This ^^... I used to have the same problem as OP until I lubed necks..still use lube but pass a q tip down brass neck before filling with powder , problem solved.

Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

[Dean2]

Originally Posted by H380

This ^^... I used to have the same problem as OP until I lubed necks..still use lube but pass a q tip down brass neck before filling with powder , problem solved.

Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

NOT this. ^^^^^^ The necks were lubed inside and out before FL sizing. Did ypu actually read the detailed explanation I provided of what the actual issue was?

[GrandSlam]

If it’s a factory rifle, that would be a warranty issue. Should not have to under trim cases to fit.

[32-40win]

Shud be repairable under warranty from whoever chambered it, you would think.

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by 32-40win

Shud be repairable under warranty from whoever chambered it, you would think.

Exactly, rechamber to spec, or rebarrel with proper chamber

[badbrass]

I would think also!

Originally Posted by elkhunter11

Exactly, rechamber to spec, or rebarrel with proper chamber

[Dean2]

I disageree. It shoots great and the only issue is the neck juncture is a hair short. I would neever send it back for that. I would figure out the neck length and keep my brass at that Iength. Saves carbon rings too. Even by SAAMI specs there is a ..01 tolerance, check the drawing. This is very far from being an issue that needs fixing once you understand where it is at. I have seen many great shooting chambers that were way further out dimension wise than this. That is more than half the point of reloading. Fitting loads to the exact dimensions of the gun you have. That is precisely what makes them so much more accurate than SAAMI loaded factory ammo.