Flouro strength for pike leaders?

[Junglefisher]

Originally Posted by cougar bait

Just wondering when you guys are making your fluoro leaders how long do you normally make them?
Thanks

I usually run between 4 and 6 feet of leader. It gets shorter as I change lures.

[idaman]

I am surprised more people don't use these...

[Fishslayer99]

Originally Posted by WildCats

3-4 foot section of 80 lb Seagaur leader, attached with double crimped sleeves.

This guy here knows what hes talking about. If you are just targeting pike 80lb is the way to go. Seaguar is the best i have found, if you use something other than large dead baits maybe look at downsizing because as mentioned the thicker the line the less action you will have on your "lure"

I make my own rigs and when targeting large pike the only way to go is a large dead bait on a tip up IMO. Sometimes you can land 50 fish on one rig, other times all it takes is one fish to damage it to the point you have to make a new one.

[EZM]

Originally Posted by scel

EZM, What is your favorite leader recipe for your average Alberta pike?

I use 80lb Berkley Big Game or ProSpec Fluorocarbon Leader Material .....

http://www.berkley-fishing.com/berkl...2.html#start=2

On the lure end ... a Quality (weight rated) 100lb cross lock ball bearing swivel snap, size 4 - like these ones also from Berkley

https://www.fishusa.com/product/Berk...k-Snap-Swivels

And on the end that goes to the fishing line ..... a Quality (weight rated) 135lb ball bearing swivel (my main line, usually 30lb braid, terminated with a ball bearing cross lock (same as above).

https://www.fishusa.com/product/Berk...earing-Swivels

The leaders are usually 20" to 30" and knotted and pulled tight with pliers (and tag ends crewed up by the pliers are trimmed off). I use a lighter to slightly melt (mushroom) the tag end. No glue needed.

I have used a 2x6 with screw in hook (could be a nail) to hook the eye of the swivel/snap to hold one end to snug the knot and pliers on the tag end. Always moisten the knot.

That's the secret recipe.

[scel]

Originally Posted by EZM

I use 80lb Berkley Big Game or ProSpec Fluorocarbon Leader Material .....

http://www.berkley-fishing.com/berkl...2.html#start=2

On the lure end ... a Quality (weight rated) 100lb cross lock ball bearing swivel snap, size 4 - like these ones also from Berkley

https://www.fishusa.com/product/Berk...k-Snap-Swivels

And on the end that goes to the fishing line ..... a Quality (weight rated) 135lb ball bearing swivel (my main line, usually 30lb braid, terminated with a ball bearing cross lock (same as above).

https://www.fishusa.com/product/Berk...earing-Swivels

The leaders are usually 20" to 30" and knotted and pulled tight with pliers (and tag ends crewed up by the pliers are trimmed off). I use a lighter to slightly melt (mushroom) the tag end. No glue needed.

I have used a 2x6 with screw in hook (could be a nail) to hook the eye of the swivel/snap to hold one end to snug the knot and pliers on the tag end. Always moisten the knot.

That's the secret recipe.

Thanks, man. I appreciate it.

I trust the secret recipe is at least as good as my TiNi leaders.

I will be spending 2 weeks in Northern Sask at the beginning of June. My father-in-law insists on trolling around for walleye using an old-school steel leader. Obviously, trolling a crankbait around invites a considerably amount of pike strikes. At $10/crankbait, I understand the desire for a leader. Still, I took off the leader and used a straight 10# fluoro leader, I started catching walleye 4-to-1. But I went through $70 of crankbaits in a morning.

With a crappy steel leader, they still catch 6-8 in a couple hours of trolling. Personally, I just want to catch lunch, then get on to hunting the trophy pike (sorry, walleye, you are too delicious). I think your leaders will be the ticket.

Is there any reason why you do not tie your leader directly to the line using an FG or NoName knot?
I assume it is because you use your rod for multiple species and like to interchange the leaders based on application.

[Michael_Brown]

Originally Posted by scel

Is there any reason why you do not tie your leader directly to the line using an FG or NoName knot?
I assume it is because you use your rod for multiple species and like to interchange the leaders based on application.

The difference in line diameter can make it awkward for tying knots but it certainly works. Personally I prefer a good quality inline swivel to help reduce line twist. Get good quality swivels that are strong and keep them small.

[EZM]

Originally Posted by scel

Thanks, man. I appreciate it.

I trust the secret recipe is at least as good as my TiNi leaders.

I will be spending 2 weeks in Northern Sask at the beginning of June. My father-in-law insists on trolling around for walleye using an old-school steel leader. Obviously, trolling a crankbait around invites a considerably amount of pike strikes. At $10/crankbait, I understand the desire for a leader. Still, I took off the leader and used a straight 10# fluoro leader, I started catching walleye 4-to-1. But I went through $70 of crankbaits in a morning.

With a crappy steel leader, they still catch 6-8 in a couple hours of trolling. Personally, I just want to catch lunch, then get on to hunting the trophy pike (sorry, walleye, you are too delicious). I think your leaders will be the ticket.

Is there any reason why you do not tie your leader directly to the line using an FG or NoName knot?
I assume it is because you use your rod for multiple species and like to interchange the leaders based on application.

Makes lure changes quick, easy and simple.

Pike are not shy of a little swivel snap.

[EZM]

Originally Posted by idaman

I am surprised more people don't use these...

These are great, but much cheaper to tie your own.

[Junglefisher]

Originally Posted by Michael_Brown

The difference in line diameter can make it awkward for tying knots but it certainly works. Personally I prefer a good quality inline swivel to help reduce line twist. Get good quality swivels that are strong and keep them small.

Line twist indicates a lure that is not running properly. FG knots are easy to tie and will comfortably tie 10lb braid to 80lb leader. Less knots / connections = less to go wrong.

[EZM]

Originally Posted by Junglefisher

Line twist indicates a lure that is not running properly. FG knots are easy to tie and will comfortably tie 10lb braid to 80lb leader. Less knots / connections = less to go wrong.

So ....... what you are saying is every spoon and every spinner I own is not running right? Not all spoons have a swivel nor are all spinners perfectly balanced to avoid the barrel of the spinner from rotating as well.

Even a very high quality spinner (where the barrel at normal speeds stays relatively still with little rotation at most speeds) will begin to rotate at higher speeds.

Even though a spoon a low rate of speed will flip 2-3 times this way and 2-3 times the other, if you speed it up, it will pick a direction of rotation and begin to twist your line up if you don't run a swivel somewhere.

A swivel is a necessary part of the terminal tackle on any spinning outfit as far as I'm concerned.

In the old days, when everyone used mono, this was very easy to see. with today's braided lines, there is certainly less visible or obvious evidence, however, braid can get twisted up.

There are times, admittedly, like finesse fishing trout with small lures where I don't use a swivel - but whenever practical - a swivel or two is on the line somewhere.

[Maxwell78]

Originally Posted by idaman

I am surprised more people don't use these...

This is all i use now.

[huntsfurfish]

While it is true that the more knots/ connections, increase failure points.
Not(see what I did here), all lures are out of tune if they create twist in the line.
I try to minimize the use of connections. And that may eliminate an inline swivel at times. But I may utilize a swivel at the lure some times also(still only one knot).
For pike, in winter no swivels, in open water if fishing spoons or large spinners then break out the swivels and when fishing jigs no inline swivel. But thats just the way I do it.
Crankbaits, yes can roll causing line twist and would be out of tune. Spinners can create line twist but are not out of tune. As mentioned spoons can be pulled fast enough to roll and cause line twist.
Pulling flashers can cause line twist and pulling dodgers where they roll over can cause line twist, none of which are/would be out of tune.

[EZM]

Originally Posted by huntsfurfish

While it is true that the more knots/ connections, increase failure points.
Not(see what I did here), all lures are out of tune if they create twist in the line.
I try to minimize the use of connections. And that may eliminate an inline swivel at times. But I may utilize a swivel at the lure some times also(still only one knot).
For pike, in winter no swivels, in open water if fishing spoons or large spinners then break out the swivels and when fishing jigs no inline swivel. But thats just the way I do it.
Crankbaits, yes can roll causing line twist and would be out of tune. Spinners can create line twist but are not out of tune. As mentioned spoons can be pulled fast enough to roll and cause line twist.
Pulling flashers can cause line twist and pulling dodgers where they roll over can cause line twist, none of which are/would be out of tune.

My thoughts precisely.

The good thing is all the larger terminal tackle like dodgers, flashers, cowbells, fenders, lake trolls etc... have a built in swivel exactly for that reason.

Most bigger spoons have them as well.

I'm sure glad the days of using mono for everything are over - all of us used to remember the days before we knew any better and just tied whatever lure we had directly to the line, and the line was a rigid mono and we got the corkscrew pube effect.

I don't miss those days .... lol.

[SamSteele]

Originally Posted by RavYak

I like titanium leaders for pike. Small, not that visible, dont kink. Catch 100s of fish per leader.

This.

I use the Knot 2 Kinky premade units. They are pricey but work well. Tried the Cabela's house brand ones due to price and had a couple break in the loop that holds the swivel clip on. Cheaper to buy the K2K brand units and keep your hooks. They are about $9 each last time I looked, but one will last most of a season provided your knots are good and you check your mainline for damage periodically.

SS

[Michael_Brown]

Originally Posted by Junglefisher

Line twist indicates a lure that is not running properly. FG knots are easy to tie and will comfortably tie 10lb braid to 80lb leader. Less knots / connections = less to go wrong.

Depends on what lure you are using. I throw a lot of soft plastics and want them to spin sometimes.

[Bushleague]

Originally Posted by Michael_Brown

Depends on what lure you are using. I throw a lot of soft plastics and want them to spin sometimes.

X2, there are plenty of lures that will spin under normal use, there are also a lot of others that have a very narrow speed range where they do not spin, most of the Williams spoons are like this. So what happens when the fish want a Williams spoon, but you need to run them fast to keep them over top the weeds, or your fishing in current and at least a portion of your retrieve will be upstream.... plenty of reasons why you want a swivel in your rig.