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  #31  
Old 05-08-2021, 09:03 PM
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spirit4u spirit4u is offline
 
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Was it misfiring AFTER changing the parts? If the misfire started after replacing the parts, I would suspect the porcelain got cracked on one or more spark plugs during install or poor contact of a plug wire.
If the misfire was present BEFORE replacing the parts. Then none of those parts made a change in the misfire. It would most likely be a base engine problem ie. bad injector, cracked or burnt valve, worn valve train associated with one cylinder only, etc.
Couple other things, re-check the spk plug wiring order on the cap. Some models I've seen, the terminal in the cap does not line up with what is on the outside of the cap (if you've seen these you know what I'm talking about).
The throttle, MAF sensor, weak fuel pump, faulty 02 sensor tend to affect all cylinders not just one.
You said it seems to misfire after warming up. Did you gap the plugs? If one had a extra wide gap it might fire ok during a cold start when more fuel is being delivered (like the choke on, old days) and start misfiring when it starts to lean the mixture.
If you have one of those little hand held thermal temp sensing guns. Start the cold engine and check each port on the exhaust manifold. The misfiring one will be the cold one. Good luck.
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  #32  
Old 05-08-2021, 09:06 PM
Mayhem Mayhem is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elkhunter11 View Post
If it starts after the engine runs a while, I would suspect that it's ignition related,as in a coil/module getting hot.
Injectors can do this too. Get it warmed up and misfiring, shut er down and unplug your injector wiring harness(s), check resistance of each one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Peace Meal Farm View Post
just thinking aloud here ....

if throttle makes it 'go away' then what happens under throttle? increased air and increased fuel.

if it is good under throttle then the fuel part will likely be just fine. typically fuel systems fail in a way so as they do not deliver the required fuel.

my mind goes to air. either there is a vacuum leak when hot ..... intake gaskets???? or there is a lack of compression? seen many vehicles have a rough idle and then perk right up with a bit of throttle due to tuliped (sp?) intake valves.

before the parts cannon gets fired again perhaps a compression test is in order. i read plug wires in your first post, which makes me think 'old' as most vehicles have been coil-over-plug for a long time now. if this truck is ~15 years old with multiple hundred thousand kilometers on her then let's make sure she has enough compression to make good things happen.
I'm leaning in this direction.
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  #33  
Old 05-08-2021, 09:25 PM
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bessiedog bessiedog is offline
 
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I’m doubting it’s vaccume

I was bugging my mechanic on Friday and he squirted it down to check for a vaccume leak.. and she was hot and she was sputtering/missing at the time

If it’s the rail...I’m hoping it’s not
I’m not sure how much a dist bearing thingy is to replace...

I replaced the plugs and wires and cap and rotor myself
I know they’re good
Even that stupid number 6!... ugh! What a knuckle buster man.
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  #34  
Old 05-08-2021, 09:36 PM
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Addendum... my truck was hot.
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  #35  
Old 05-08-2021, 10:39 PM
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tri777 tri777 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bessiedog View Post
..I’m not sure how much a dist bearing thingy is to replace...
..
Vid shows how to do it yourself, bearing is approx $15-25, Napa likely has it..
(you never said what year your nissan was, so just guessed for vid)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qBJk_QMRN0g
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  #36  
Old 05-09-2021, 06:33 AM
lannie lannie is offline
 
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Id the exhaust plugged? If it started to stutter after running for a bit that would be a symptom of plugged exhaust.
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