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  #1  
Old 05-02-2008, 07:06 PM
matathonman matathonman is offline
 
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Default Aluminum boat repair?

I've a 14' Lund with alot of weaping and leaking rivets.I used marine epoxy to fix a bunch from the outside which worked on some but not all.Does anyone know of any other kind of material I can coat the whole boat with that will make it water tight?Linex won't work,slip plate neither.Has anyone used M3-5200(marine sealant).I don't know if this will last.I have to get back to F&T Boats in Edm. tommorrow to find out if they can get anymore of the stuff they use,he didn't tell me what it was they used though.Any info would be great as I've about run out of ideas. Thanks guys.
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  #2  
Old 05-02-2008, 09:39 PM
Buckhead Buckhead is offline
 
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Default leaking rivets

I had the same problem years ago on my old Lund before I got rid of it.

Sealers and/or epoxy on the rivets is only a tempoorary solution at best.
Since the hull flexes and vibrates etc. when you use the boat most of the leaks will unseal themselves.

There is a repair technique that you can try - retightening the rivets, but you need to be very careful. Partly fill the boat with water or float it so that you can identify exactly which rivets are leaking. Identify the leaky rivets both inside and outside on the boat with a marker.

Using a steel hammer and a bucking tool or chunk of steel shaped to fit the head of the rivet (its rounded). You will need a buddy to help you. Strike the flattened end of the rivet inside the hull with steel hammer. Be carefull with hammer or you will put a hole in your hull. This method takes a lot of patience and a good friend.

Barring that the only other way to stop the leakage is to find a good welder and get him to spot weld around each rivet as needed. I finally had to go this method when the leakage got too bad. The reasonsmy boat ended up leaking so much was too many miles on gravel roads that actually thinned the aluminum bottom and caused it to flex too much plus a LOT of pounding in rough water conditions - finally just wore the boat out.
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  #3  
Old 05-02-2008, 10:19 PM
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Bobalong52 Bobalong52 is offline
 
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"Partly fill the boat with water or float it so that you can identify exactly which rivets are leaking. Identify the leaky rivets both inside and outside on the boat with a marker...You will need a buddy to help you. Strike the flattened end of the rivet inside the hull with steel hammer. Be carefull with hammer or you will put a hole in your hull. This method takes a lot of patience and a good friend."

Who got to go underwater to help with this procedure?
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  #4  
Old 05-03-2008, 12:21 AM
BBJTKLE&FISHINGADVENTURES BBJTKLE&FISHINGADVENTURES is offline
 
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the buddy ,
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  #5  
Old 05-03-2008, 06:48 AM
Donkey Slayer Donkey Slayer is offline
 
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How about liquid weld?
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  #6  
Old 05-03-2008, 07:31 AM
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JohninAB JohninAB is offline
 
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Here is the kit Cabelas sells.

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...pair&noImage=0
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  #7  
Old 05-03-2008, 07:46 AM
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Reeves1 Reeves1 is offline
 
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Had a boat like that one time. But I'm a lazy fella. Wore taller boots and kept a bigger bailing bucket handy: no boat down time
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  #8  
Old 05-03-2008, 08:06 AM
BC7stw BC7stw is offline
 
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I know someone who had the same stuff they use for spray in box liners put on the inside and it fixed all his leaks. Anywhere that does box liners can do it. Worth asking about .
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  #9  
Old 05-03-2008, 11:02 AM
KyleM
 
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Quote:
Barring that the only other way to stop the leakage is to find a good welder and get him to spot weld around each rivet as needed. I finally had to go this method when the leakage got too bad.
This is the same bunk advice I got 10 years ago when I started fixing up collector aluminum boats. I cant tell you how wrong it is.

Those rivets are in the boat to tighten down a rubber gasket, theres more then meets the eye on aluminum riveted boats. The second you touch a riveted boat with a torch, you lose your seal because you melt the gasket.

The one way is to use a multi-dolly (as stated above) and carefully bang the rivets back to being snug.

The other way and personally I prefer this.....find a small stainless pan-head bolt (as close to the rivet size as possible), drill out the old rivet (some need special bit) and then insert the bolt......tighten down on the other side with the nut. Be sure to use a good expanding epoxy when inserting the bolt.
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  #10  
Old 05-03-2008, 05:25 PM
matathonman matathonman is offline
 
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I couldn't get ahold of F&T Boats today,said they'de be open but no answer.Most of the leaks are coming from where the three rails run along the underside of the boat.The rivets go through the seat panels into the hull and through the sides of the rails and there's alot!I'll try beating the rivet together and see if it helps.There is no way to seal them if it don't work short of trying to replace them.Those rivets are hard to find,I've tried all the marine shops in Calgary and then Nanton.Nanton has a couple to help but my problem is bigger than that.Thanx guys
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  #11  
Old 05-03-2008, 06:56 PM
Buckhead Buckhead is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobalong52 View Post
"Partly fill the boat with water or float it so that you can identify exactly which rivets are leaking. Identify the leaky rivets both inside and outside on the boat with a marker...You will need a buddy to help you. Strike the flattened end of the rivet inside the hull with steel hammer. Be carefull with hammer or you will put a hole in your hull. This method takes a lot of patience and a good friend."

Who got to go underwater to help with this procedure?
It must have been you since you are the one asking the silly question.

I am just trying to help someone out. Obviously you need to read between the lines a bit.
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  #12  
Old 05-03-2008, 06:59 PM
Buckhead Buckhead is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyleM View Post
This is the same bunk advice I got 10 years ago when I started fixing up collector aluminum boats. I cant tell you how wrong it is.
I will be the first to admit that I know nothing about collector aluminum boats - however I have had rivets welded on 4 aluminum boats so far. No leaks after that - how do you explain this?
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  #13  
Old 05-04-2008, 09:29 PM
muzzy muzzy is offline
 
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I had excellent luck welding about 8 rivets without a leak now for over 8 years last year I didn't get the boat overturned in time and ended up with a solid block of ice in the bow Come spring the ice had sheared off 6 rivets I used a pop rivet gun and some sealant and it worked like a charm

Gord
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  #14  
Old 05-04-2008, 09:42 PM
KyleM
 
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Hey, weld away if you wish...its your boat.

You wouldnt catch me touching a riveted boat with heat, its the wrong way to repair it.
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  #15  
Old 05-05-2008, 09:17 AM
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Dark Dark is offline
 
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Default Ask Waxy

QUOTE=Waxy;141874]Aircraft, from jumbo jets to fighter planes, are riveted. Most of the joints in the steel structure of skyscrapers are riveted.

Rivets are incredibly strong and durable.

This topic has been beat to death on forums and around campfires forever. Both have their strong points and weak points, it's not an argument that anyone can "win". For every leaky rivet I've heard about, there's a cracked and leaking weld, or a transom that's falling off. Fortunately, we have the choice as consumers to go with the product we think is best.

Waxy[/QUOTE]
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  #16  
Old 05-05-2008, 09:34 AM
Waxy Waxy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Waxy View Post
Aircraft, from jumbo jets to fighter planes, are riveted. Most of the joints in the steel structure of skyscrapers are riveted.

Rivets are incredibly strong and durable.

This topic has been beat to death on forums and around campfires forever. Both have their strong points and weak points, it's not an argument that anyone can "win". For every leaky rivet I've heard about, there's a cracked and leaking weld, or a transom that's falling off. Fortunately, we have the choice as consumers to go with the product we think is best.

Waxy
??????????????? Everyone has access to a search engine...

FWIW, I wouldn't weld a riveted hull.

Waxy
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  #17  
Old 05-05-2008, 10:03 PM
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BigBuck$ BigBuck$ is offline
 
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If you don't care about apearance use some "Baker Lock". If you are unfamiliar with it it is used as a thread lock that is applied to float collars / shoes etc when casing is run in the oilfield. I used it on a old junky boat we have in the bush and it actually filled a small hole from a rock. Looks terrible but it still don't leak. Now the tricky part is getting some, if you know a tong hand 1 case of beer will be required to obtain some of this stuff. It's a two part epoxy and you gotta work pretty quick with it so make sure you know whats leaking.

I agree with the previous posts as well the correct way to fix a rivet is to re tighten it.
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  #18  
Old 05-06-2008, 04:13 AM
600twin 600twin is offline
 
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Just curious but aren't Lund boats lifetime warranty?
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  #19  
Old 05-06-2008, 09:27 AM
Waxy Waxy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 600twin View Post
Just curious but aren't Lund boats lifetime warranty?
Only for the original owner until 2005 I believe, after that, the warranty is transferrable.

Waxy
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  #20  
Old 07-31-2009, 01:38 PM
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kostianych kostianych is offline
 
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Default blind rivets

ok, guys....can we use closed blind rivets to replace lost or loose ones on an aluminum boat? are they strong enough to use it on a boat??????
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Ask-hole: Someone who constantly asks for advice then does the opposite of what you told them.
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  #21  
Old 05-17-2012, 02:44 AM
hoggardnick hoggardnick is offline
 
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Well, What kind of repair do you want. It is a structural issues and in that tig welding is referred method and there are aluminum epoxies out there that would work for a repair.

boat repair
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  #22  
Old 05-17-2012, 04:34 AM
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Kim473 Kim473 is offline
 
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Why not drill the leaky rivets out and put new ones in? Buy rivets and rent the rivet gun.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPfPryTRcY4

Last edited by Kim473; 05-17-2012 at 04:46 AM.
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  #23  
Old 05-17-2012, 05:16 AM
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Kim473 Kim473 is offline
 
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If buying new rivets, get stainless steal ones and not aluminum. A little more expensive but alot stronger. Check at your local marine dealer or repair shop. That bullfrog repair kit sounds good as it comes with epoxie for the sealant.
I think princess auto has rivets.
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  #24  
Old 05-17-2012, 08:15 AM
FishingFrenzy FishingFrenzy is offline
 
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4 year old thread...
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