Downrigger rods/reels ????

[SCHOOCH]

I'm looking for suggestions on rods/reels to be used only for the downriggers. I would like rods to be minimum 9' and solid level wind reel. Please if you do respond give me the equipment that has worked best for you......not really worried about the prices either way. Once again thanks in advance for all the advice gentlemen/women!!!!!!!!

[Jamie]

Originally Posted by SCHOOCH

I'm looking for suggestions on rods/reels to be used only for the downriggers. I would like rods to be minimum 9' and solid level wind reel. Please if you do respond give me the equipment that has worked best for you......not really worried about the prices either way. Once again thanks in advance for all the advice gentlemen/women!!!!!!!!

What are you doing with them?

Sounds like a salmon set up, but with the level wind i am not sure.

We all know real canadians use the single action on Salmon.
Lolololololol

Jamie

[SCHOOCH]

Originally Posted by Jamie

What are you doing with them?

Sounds like a salmon set up, but with the level wind i am not sure.

We all know real canadians use the single action on Salmon.
Lolololololol

Jamie

I say level wind because really its the only reel ive ever used and thats what im familiar with. That being said looking at what you do for a living your obviously the expert. I will be mainly using these for lakers in Alberta so shoot me what you think a really good setup for here will be.

[cube]

Originally Posted by SCHOOCH

I say level wind because really its the only reel ive ever used and thats what im familiar with. That being said looking at what you do for a living your obviously the expert. I will be mainly using these for lakers in Alberta so shoot me what you think a really good setup for here will be.

For what it's worth I use Shakespeare® Ugly Stik® Big Water Downrigger Rods and Penn 320GT2LC* reels. The LC stands for line counter on the reel which I find helpful.

The equipment was recomended to me by a Downrigger rep that I met at the Fishing Hole May feild sale.

I have had zero problems fishing this system for lakers.

Now if someone would give me a pair of Islander reels I could be convinced to switch. Not that I think I would catch anymore fish, it's that I have always like the look and feel of those Islander reels

Good Luck with what ever you get

[bobalong]

I have used three different baitcasters, Ambassador, Okuma,Shimano and a couple of different rods, an 11ft Quantum and a 10ft Rapala. They all worked well in the downrigger, pulling snap weights and pulling dipseys.

[harrydude]

How about a good old petes rod and wooden real. Classic

[Bigdad013]

I would have to walk down to the boat right now to see what I actually have. I bought a a $500 reel/rod combo, sweet setup, but it doesn't get me more fish than the old $100 setup. I always have 4 or 5 rods ready on the go, diff rods, for big salmon, reg trouyt etc.. Personal preference, what feels good I guess. This summer saw a 5 yr old get a 13lb trout wit a popeils pocket fisheman with red licorice off of th dock. Whatever works

[fishunter327]

Check out Fetha styx.

http://www.fethastyx.com/Homewater

Havn't fished one but had one in my hand at the Vancouver boat show last weekend felt great,looked awesome.Quality piece made from rainshadow blanks,this one had an Alps reel seat,not sure if that is custom or not.

[Bigdad013]

Originally Posted by fishunter327

Check out Fetha styx.

http://www.fethastyx.com/Homewater

Havn't fished one but had one in my hand at the Vancouver boat show last weekend felt great,looked awesome.Quality piece made from rainshadow blanks,this one had an Alps reel seat,not sure if that is custom or not.

Looks like nice equipment, but from the website, none of them are for downrigger purposes.

[fishunter327]

Originally Posted by Bigdad013

Looks like nice equipment, but from the website, none of them are for downrigger purposes.

check out this link

http://www.fethastyx.com/shop/Chrome/Downrigger

[Bigdad013]

Ooops, missed that, nice stuff, might have to do some shopping

[fishunter327]

Originally Posted by Bigdad013

Ooops, missed that, nice stuff, might have to do some shopping

No sweat ,if wifey wasn't with me I would have one in my arsenal right now.

[huntsfurfish]

Shimano has worked well for me. They have a good selection. TDR's and Teloras.
Team up with Penn, Abu Garcia, shimano or other reels. Can use line counters (I like), but you dont have to.

[FishHunterPro]

I used a round baitcaster in the 400 size and it was great for lakers.

[s_erickson]

Fight a fish on an islander and you'll never go back to level wind. If price is no object, then get a couple and you'll be set. Shimano rods are pretty good.

[Teamprotz]

I've been using Cabelas innerflow rods. Line goes inside the blank so easy to set in the rod holder in any position. Rods are 8'6" . Haven't seen them in Canadian Cabelas yet though.

[Stally77]

Daiwa Accudepthplus 27LCW reels/Uglystick SPL 1100 9'0" medium action rods
are what I've been using for Downrigging. Paid Approx: $150 each. Setup works great. IMG-20130218-00364.jpgIMG-20130218-00360.jpgAttachment 68017

[EZM]

If you are running a down rigger, you obviously don't need a line counter, but if you are going to use them for both down riggers and dipsy's then that's a little tougher.

Rods, although similar, have to be a little different (action and spine), and reels don't need the same features.

For Dipsy's I use a Okuma Magda Pro series line counter with a Shimano Talora Dipsy Diver Rod. Has a slightly stiffer spine than the downrigger rods. Works nicely.

For Down Rigging, and flat line trolling, I use a Abu Garcia C4 series with a Shimano Talora Downrigger rod - this puppy loads up real nice and even so you get a great trigger when your victim comes along to have a snack.

[Stally77]

[QUOTE=EZM;1853872]If you are running a down rigger, you obviously don't need a line counter, but if you are going to use them for both down riggers and dipsy's then that's a little tougher.

EZM The benefit of having a line counter when downrigging is that you can accuratley set the amount of line behind your ball. When fishing in clear water you want more line out behind when you are higher in the water column. I find it very useful, JMO. Regards

[EZM]

[QUOTE=Stally77;1853883]

Originally Posted by EZM

If you are running a down rigger, you obviously don't need a line counter, but if you are going to use them for both down riggers and dipsy's then that's a little tougher.

EZM The benefit of having a line counter when downrigging is that you can accuratley set the amount of line behind your ball. When fishing in clear water you want more line out behind when you are higher in the water column. I find it very useful, JMO. Regards

I just let the line out behind the boat at the trolling speed and watch my flasher go 20' to whatever feet back I want it to be. Yes a line counter would give me the "exact" distance but it's not needed - that was my point.

If there is value in going exactly 24.5 feet behind the ball versus 22 or 27 feet ......... I don't see it. You know what I mean.

I run a flasher off my stack, and the release to my line so I want to be in tight to the ball when in deep and clear water. Sometimes 12 feet or so.

Running further back in deep water reduces your hook ups dramatically.

The biggest mistake guys make is thinking the ball spooks trout and they end up letting out 60 feet of line out behind a ball that is 150' down - that makes it real tough to hook up.

If you are trolling deep - you don't need more than 15-25 feet of line out from the boat - that's like one boat length or so ....

The rigger, of course, gives you the depth count anyways.

Rule of thumb is run deep - run tight and the opposite is true of running shallow - you need a little more length.

Run as tight as you dare - the tighter, the better you hook up on a take.

xxxx

For a dipsy - a line counter, of course, is critical - depending on your line diameter, size of disk and speed, you need to know how much line goes out to achieve target depth. Charts are pretty accurate.

When setting up ...... I set my sensitivity up to 100% so I can see the dipsy, the ball etc...on the sonar.

Then when I take a mental note of it and make small adjustments, set the sonar back to normal and fish away.

[Pixel Shooter]

Based on that explanation, you are going on the opinion that riggers are used for only going down deep. Manytimes I will only go down 10ft, 20-25 ft behind boat is not far enough. I too find the line counter very helpful as I like to be 110-140 ft behind the boat . my down riggers are set up for planner boards and I do run my flies that far back behind the boat. You may not find it useful but some do, thats why they have the option


[QUOTE=EZM;1853917]

Originally Posted by Stally77

I just let the line out behind the boat at the trolling speed and watch my flasher go 20' to whatever feet back I want it to be. Yes a line counter would give me the "exact" distance but it's not needed - that was my point.

If there is value in going exactly 24.5 feet behind the ball versus 22 or 27 feet ......... I don't see it. You know what I mean.

I run a flasher off my stack, and the release to my line so I want to be in tight to the ball when in deep and clear water. Sometimes 12 feet or so.

Running further back in deep water reduces your hook ups dramatically.

The biggest mistake guys make is thinking the ball spooks trout and they end up letting out 60 feet of line out behind a ball that is 150' down - that makes it real tough to hook up.

If you are trolling deep - you don't need more than 15-25 feet of line out from the boat - that's like one boat length or so ....

The rigger, of course, gives you the depth count anyways.

Rule of thumb is run deep - run tight and the opposite is true of running shallow - you need a little more length.

Run as tight as you dare - the tighter, the better you hook up on a take.

xxxx

For a dipsy - a line counter, of course, is critical - depending on your line diameter, size of disk and speed, you need to know how much line goes out to achieve target depth. Charts are pretty accurate.

When setting up ...... I set my sensitivity up to 100% so I can see the dipsy, the ball etc...on the sonar.

Then when I take a mental note of it and make small adjustments, set the sonar back to normal and fish away.

[Ceilidh69]

Okuma Magda Pro Line Counter reels and Okuma donwrigger rods. Purchased at WSS in Calgary. Used all of last summer on Shuswap Lake trolling Coyote spoons and Apex lures on small Scotty downriggers. No issues. Drag system takes some getting used to. Worked very well over all.

[Stally77]

[QUOTE=EZM;1853917]

Originally Posted by Stally77

I just let the line out behind the boat at the trolling speed and watch my flasher go 20' to whatever feet back I want it to be. Yes a line counter would give me the "exact" distance but it's not needed - that was my point.

If there is value in going exactly 24.5 feet behind the ball versus 22 or 27 feet ......... I don't see it. You know what I mean.

I run a flasher off my stack, and the release to my line so I want to be in tight to the ball when in deep and clear water. Sometimes 12 feet or so.

Running further back in deep water reduces your hook ups dramatically.

The biggest mistake guys make is thinking the ball spooks trout and they end up letting out 60 feet of line out behind a ball that is 150' down - that makes it real tough to hook up.

If you are trolling deep - you don't need more than 15-25 feet of line out from the boat - that's like one boat length or so ....

The rigger, of course, gives you the depth count anyways.

Rule of thumb is run deep - run tight and the opposite is true of running shallow - you need a little more length.

Run as tight as you dare - the tighter, the better you hook up on a take.

xxxx

For a dipsy - a line counter, of course, is critical - depending on your line diameter, size of disk and speed, you need to know how much line goes out to achieve target depth. Charts are pretty accurate.

When setting up ...... I set my sensitivity up to 100% so I can see the dipsy, the ball etc...on the sonar.

Then when I take a mental note of it and make small adjustments, set the sonar back to normal and fish away.

If I am trolling with my cannonballs at 30 feet i like to run at 70-100 feet back behind as I go deeper i will bring it in tighter to the ball. I have tried different lenths an depths to find out which are the most consistant for me. I have them dialed in this is why I find the LC's convienent. Not saying It is right or wrong but it is what has proven to work for me. JMO.

[EZM]

[QUOTE=Stally77;1854069]

Originally Posted by EZM

If I am trolling with my cannonballs at 30 feet i like to run at 70-100 feet back behind as I go deeper i will bring it in tighter to the ball. I have tried different lenths an depths to find out which are the most consistant for me. I have them dialed in this is why I find the LC's convienent. Not saying It is right or wrong but it is what has proven to work for me. JMO.

One of my quotes was ...

Rule of thumb is run deep - run tight and the opposite is true of running shallow - you need a little more length.

Definitely a "general comment"

I run my rigger sometimes as shallow at 15-20 feet - in which case I'm out 50-80 feet.

Unless I'm running a big fly for rainbows - on calm water - Sometimes I will go down 10 and back 120' and run the boat over 4 mph.

With a little chop, I am running surface for rainbows. (with a big fly).

I guess with any general comment - there are exceptions.

At the end of the day - it's fishing and you have to keep trying to adjust your presentation if it's slow until you dial into the fish.

One thing is for sure - the more line you have out - the less likely (generally) you are in getting the fish hooked up solid right away.

The same is true of running snubbers - sometimes yes and sometimes no .... one of those things ........ kokanee on braid is a must, that's about the only time I'd say yes 100%. Other than that - you have to do what catches fish - and keep adjusting until you are busy fighting fish.

[SCHOOCH]

[QUOTE=EZM;1854127]

Originally Posted by Stally77

One of my quotes was ...

Rule of thumb is run deep - run tight and the opposite is true of running shallow - you need a little more length.

Definitely a "general comment"

I run my rigger sometimes as shallow at 15-20 feet - in which case I'm out 50-80 feet.

Unless I'm running a big fly for rainbows - on calm water - Sometimes I will go down 10 and back 120' and run the boat over 4 mph.

With a little chop, I am running surface for rainbows. (with a big fly).

I guess with any general comment - there are exceptions.

At the end of the day - it's fishing and you have to keep trying to adjust your presentation if it's slow until you dial into the fish.

One thing is for sure - the more line you have out - the less likely (generally) you are in getting the fish hooked up solid right away.

The same is true of running snubbers - sometimes yes and sometimes no .... one of those things ........ kokanee on braid is a must, that's about the only time I'd say yes 100%. Other than that - you have to do what catches fish - and keep adjusting until you are busy fighting fish.

Well if its any consolation i'm learning quite a bit of great information from both of you guys! THANKS

[huntsfurfish]

Benefit from Line counters is you can use them for any trolling application. Long line, dipsy, drop weights, bottom bouncing, down riggers, side planers etc.

So get the line counters!

[EZM]

Originally Posted by huntsfurfish

Benefit from Line counters is you can use them for any trolling application. Long line, dipsy, drop weights, bottom bouncing, down riggers, side planers etc.

So get the line counters!

Damn prairie fishermen and their fancy toys .... lol.....

The post is about down riggers .... ( I de-railed it actually).....lol

Well I guess the millions of guys catching Salmon on the coast with 1:1 reels (like an Islander) or level winds are doing it wrong .............. none of these have a line counter ......... I wonder how they catch fish??????



I also must be pretty lucky too as fish end up in my boat without the aid of a line counter when using the rigger.



just teasin' - but that's my thought process ......

For down riggers you simply don't need a line counter.

That was my point ....... I see no big benefit to it.

You can pretty much figure your set back out by letting it out before pinching on your release. Plus or minus a 10 foot error on 60 feet of line out hasn't hurt the millions of us who don't use counters with riggers.

For Dipsy's - it's definitely a must have. I use counters 100% of the time in this application.

I guess if you only had one set-up - definitely go with a counter - but to save some weight, bulkiness, extra cost etc....I wouldn't bother loosing sleep over it.

My wife would say I'm spoiled with 30 plus rod/reel combos .... maybe that's my problem.

[huntsfurfish]

Originally Posted by EZM

Damn prairie fishermen and their fancy toys .... lol.....
Were Bad
The post is about down riggers .... ( I de-railed it actually).....lol

Well I guess the millions of guys catching Salmon on the coast with 1:1 reels (like an Islander) or level winds are doing it wrong .............. none of these have a line counter ......... I wonder how they catch fish??????

People in BC are slow learners I guess


I also must be pretty lucky too as fish end up in my boat without the aid of a line counter when using the rigger.



just teasin' - but that's my thought process ......

For down riggers you simply don't need a line counter.

That was my point ....... I see no big benefit to it.

Lots of benefits made by other posters as well-shallow water for example
Being able to duplicate what you did to catch that first fish can be important(another benefit).

You can pretty much figure your set back out by letting it out before pinching on your release. Plus or minus a 10 foot error on 60 feet of line out hasn't hurt the millions of us who don't use counters with riggers.

But it can and does help (see above).

For Dipsy's - it's definitely a must have. I use counters 100% of the time in this application.

I guess if you only had one set-up - definitely go with a counter - but to save some weight, bulkiness, extra cost etc....I wouldn't bother loosing sleep over it.

Rods in a holder - weight minor issue, bulkiness - minor issue have some small LC's out there extra $10-30.00 per reel, not excessive.
So really, why would you not use one?

My wife would say I'm spoiled with 30 plus rod/reel combos .... maybe that's my problem.

Not married(this is proabably why). I have just about as many line counters as your 30.

First off reread post 13

also said dont have to have em( but they are better ) and like I said in another post they work with so many presentations.

[overparr]

May have to disagree with you there . using downriggers gets you to the presumed depth but when you add all the jewlery you create blow back the absolut tool to use if you want exact depth at your downriggr ball then I would suggest the fish hawk x4d give you not only temp and speed but xact depth. The only problem I have with this tool is price

Originally Posted by EZM

If you are running a down rigger, you obviously don't need a line counter, but if you are going to use them for both down riggers and dipsy's then that's a little tougher.

Rods, although similar, have to be a little different (action and spine), and reels don't need the same features.

For Dipsy's I use a Okuma Magda Pro series line counter with a Shimano Talora Dipsy Diver Rod. Has a slightly stiffer spine than the downrigger rods. Works nicely.

For Down Rigging, and flat line trolling, I use a Abu Garcia C4 series with a Shimano Talora Downrigger rod - this puppy loads up real nice and even so you get a great trigger when your victim comes along to have a snack.

[EZM]

Originally Posted by overparr

May have to disagree with you there . using downriggers gets you to the presumed depth but when you add all the jewlery you create blow back the absolut tool to use if you want exact depth at your downriggr ball then I would suggest the fish hawk x4d give you not only temp and speed but xact depth. The only problem I have with this tool is price

For sure there is a bow in your wire and some set back - so when your rigger is down 80' it might be actually running 65' or something.

I usually just crank my sensitivity up to 100% on my HDS unit and see where the ball is trailing and make adjustments.

Once I'm happy I reset to the correct sensitivity and off we go. The amount of bow on your rigger is fairly constant given average trolling speed - so it takes a bit of experience I find.

I use speed off the GPS head unit but have no way of knowing temp at the depth as I don't run a temp sensor off my ball. I figure, as far as temp goes, I just go to where the fish are ............ follow the swarms ..........and adjust my presentation to drag through them.