Hanging game in a garage with a finished ceiling

glen1971 · #1 12-11-2016, 07:19 PM

So I've been using a 2x4, lag bolted to the roof trusses in the garage, for years and never had an issue. We've had a smaller elk (2 halves) hung here before with no issues.. This year, I had a lag pull out of the truss and almost ended up with half a cow elk on the floor.. The piece that gave out was when we used an eye bolt near the end of the 2x4.. Single eye bolt to a gambrel to half the elk..
They are 3/8" x 3" lags.. I am guessing at least 1/2" drywall.. Maybe 5/8"?? Lags too light? What are some other options? I don't know if I have access above the drywall. My last set-up I was able to span the top side of the rafters with a 10' piece of steel and used 3/8" redi rod through the drywall to another piece of steel...

CNP · #2 12-11-2016, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glen1971

So I've been using a 2x4, lag bolted to the roof trusses in the garage, for years and never had an issue. We've had a smaller elk (2 halves) hung here before with no issues.. This year, I had a lag pull out of the truss and almost ended up with half a cow elk on the floor.. The piece that gave out was when we used an eye bolt near the end of the 2x4.. Single eye bolt to a gambrel to half the elk..
They are 3/8" x 3" lags.. I am guessing at least 1/2" drywall.. Maybe 5/8"?? Lags too light? What are some other options? I don't know if I have access above the drywall. My last set-up I was able to span the top side of the rafters with a 10' piece of steel and used 3/8" redi rod through the drywall to another piece of steel...

You're saying you don't have an attic access hole in your ceiling?

CanuckShooter · #3 12-11-2016, 07:29 PM

I'd get up inside that roof and put something beefier than 3/8s lags to hold it up. Sounds like your old system was much more appropriate!!

If you can't do that then put up a long 2x6 so it can span several joists, 3 lags per joist. and don't hang near the end of the 2x6.....

Lefty-Canuck · #4 12-11-2016, 07:30 PM

I use two 4x4 posts spanned across 3 trusses and a chain looped over the post. Had whole elk, moose and steers on it. Using two 1 tonne chain hoists I pull them up to hang and skin or split.

LC

Kurt505 · #5 12-11-2016, 07:32 PM

Did you maybe turn the lag bolt out a few turns over the years? I noticed about 1/2"-3/4" of threads sticking out of my ceiling this fall, I cranked them all in tight after I noticed that.

JWCalgary · #6 12-11-2016, 09:03 PM

I have my set up as follows. 2 2x4's on the flat between two trusses screwed to the bottom chord and then a couple of 2x4's up to the top chord. Everything screwed together. That way the whole truss is being used, not just the bottom chord. Using a 3" eye lag as well.

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robson3954 · #7 12-11-2016, 09:22 PM

I have a beam that I was able to use. Finished garages without attic space are crap for this kind of stuff

roger · #8 12-11-2016, 09:58 PM

Get a length of cannonball door track and some of the cannonball door hangers. Place it diagonally from corner to corner on ceiling and it should be able to load the rail from the back of the truck. Then push away. Just like real butcher shop!
Hang from as many ceiling rafters as what fits. Shouldn't require a whole pile of reinforcements too.
attach meat hooks of various lengths to door hangers that fit and roll easily inside track.
should work like a charm.
also works for hanging things to paint or drip dry.

warriorboy10 · #9 12-11-2016, 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck

I use two 4x4 posts spanned across 3 trusses and a chain looped over the post. Had whole elk, moose and steers on it. Using two 1 tonne chain hoists I pull them up to hang and skin or split.

LC

Exactly!!

Pioneer2 · #10 12-12-2016, 07:12 AM

First cut an access panel,then run a 10" or better steel pipe across several rafters.I punched two small holes at each rafter and bolted an 1/2" automotive U bolt round side down over the pipe . It holds two moose and a couple deer no problem and has for years...your meat hooks fit the protruding U bolts.....Harold

WillyOneStyle · #11 12-12-2016, 10:12 AM

I work in commercial construction and we always have building inspectors telling us that trusses and joists are only designed to carry a load above them and not a load pulling down on them from the bottom.

That said, I have seen a chev 350 hoisted out of a chassis with a length of pipe slid across the bottom cord of several trusses. In my own garage I set a laminated beam on two columns so that I am not pulling on the roof structure at all. If you have the ceiling height, this may be an option.

CNP · #12 12-12-2016, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WillyOneStyle

I work in commercial construction and we always have building inspectors telling us that trusses and joists are only designed to carry a load above them and not a load pulling down on them from the bottom.

That said, I have seen a chev 350 hoisted out of a chassis with a length of pipe slid across the bottom cord of several trusses. In my own garage I set a laminated beam on two columns so that I am not pulling on the roof structure at all. If you have the ceiling height, this may be an option.

That's the truth, the whole truth and nothing but the truth. But who ever listens to the truth

In order to minimize bottom loading on the rafters, I placed my hoist close to an exterior wall. It's similar to the other examples above..........having the hoist mounted to a 4X4 spanning 4 rafters. The hoist is 3' from the wall. Doing this in the centre of your garage would not be safe for sure

An even better solution would be to span over some rafters at a corner (45 degrees). In doing so you can position the spanning timber on exterior walls at both ends. Space dictates what you can do...

CanuckShooter · #13 12-12-2016, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roger

Get a length of cannonball door track and some of the cannonball door hangers. Place it diagonally from corner to corner on ceiling and it should be able to load the rail from the back of the truck. Then push away. Just like real butcher shop!
Hang from as many ceiling rafters as what fits. Shouldn't require a whole pile of reinforcements too.
attach meat hooks of various lengths to door hangers that fit and roll easily inside track.
should work like a charm.
also works for hanging things to paint or drip dry.

Good idea^^

Sneeze · #14 12-12-2016, 11:03 AM

Holy Smokers you guys want to re-invent the wheel here for something simple.

Take 2 - 2 x 4. Cut them to length such that then span about 4 trusses. Prime them so they match the color of the ceiling.

Place one on the ceiling and fasten using 2 - 3" #8 screws at each truss.

Place the other one on the bottom of the one you just installed. Use PL and the same screws.

Go to your hardware store and by some D-Rings with plates and screw them into the 2 x 4 with 3" long screws.

Done. Hang an entire elk carcass or so from it. Will take you less than an hour including the time to drive to the hardware store.

glen1971 · #15 12-13-2016, 08:16 PM

Thanks everyone for the replies.. Some really good ideas!
Here's some answers to some comments and questions...

- I'm not sure if I have attic access as it is an attached garage, and the attic opening is in the house in the hallway.. I can't see there being an access through there, as I would guess the garage wall would need to be fire rated, or something similar. I'll try and have a look in there, before I get too crazy building..

- I like the idea of a 2x6 and more than one lag per rafter. I am thinking that would help distribute the weight better.

- None of the lags were loose.

- I looked at the cannonball track and it looks slick. The rating I saw on it was or 400#, except one of the round versions was good for 1,200#. Not sure if the weight of an elk or deer (we had 6 hanging in the garage at one point this season) would be a problem.

- Not sure I can get a piece of 10" pipe into the attic of the garage, without a crane and a lot of work... When it's in there, I'm not sure I could hang more than a gold fish on it..

- The double 2x4's is a good idea too. Is the double for added strength? To basically make it a 4x4 post?

For those that have bolted or screwed wood to the under side of the rafters, when you say you hang an animal, how do you hoist it up there? This year, we had a gambrel on one eye bolt. I think that was part of my demise too. I think the force on one eye bolt was too much... This time I'm going to get a spreader type bar built so I can hook onto opposing eye bolts and a hole in the middle for the gambrel. Then we typically use ratchet straps to hold them up to the hooks..

Knot Rite · #16 12-13-2016, 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WillyOneStyle

I work in commercial construction and we always have building inspectors telling us that trusses and joists are only designed to carry a load above them and not a load pulling down on them from the bottom.

This is very true.

Bobby

Prairiekid · #17 12-13-2016, 08:40 PM

Throw a support column in there to cut down the span and then you don't have to worry about the load being beneath the truss.

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Xbolt7mm · #18 12-13-2016, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glen1971

Thanks everyone for the replies.. Some really good ideas!
Here's some answers to some comments and questions...

- I'm not sure if I have attic access as it is an attached garage, and the attic opening is in the house in the hallway.. I can't see there being an access through there, as I would guess the garage wall would need to be fire rated, or something similar. I'll try and have a look in there, before I get too crazy building..

- I like the idea of a 2x6 and more than one lag per rafter. I am thinking that would help distribute the weight better.

- None of the lags were loose.

- I looked at the cannonball track and it looks slick. The rating I saw on it was or 400#, except one of the round versions was good for 1,200#. Not sure if the weight of an elk or deer (we had 6 hanging in the garage at one point this season) would be a problem.

- Not sure I can get a piece of 10" pipe into the attic of the garage, without a crane and a lot of work... When it's in there, I'm not sure I could hang more than a gold fish on it..

- The double 2x4's is a good idea too. Is the double for added strength? To basically make it a 4x4 post?

For those that have bolted or screwed wood to the under side of the rafters, when you say you hang an animal, how do you hoist it up there? This year, we had a gambrel on one eye bolt. I think that was part of my demise too. I think the force on one eye bolt was too much... This time I'm going to get a spreader type bar built so I can hook onto opposing eye bolts and a hole in the middle for the gambrel. Then we typically use ratchet straps to hold them up to the hooks..

If you find it's heavy and the truss sags just cut two 4x4s to length and stand it up between the truss and the floor at 3 feet on either side

FellSwoop · #19 12-13-2016, 09:00 PM

I have an engine hoist that allows me to leave the ceiling intact which is good considering that I have shelving everywhere up there.
It can lift a half moose no problem and I leave the other half on a tarp until done. Height is the limitation. I have had two deer on it at the same time.
When not in use, it comes apart and racks against the garage wall.

Grizzly Adams · #20 12-13-2016, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck

I use two 4x4 posts spanned across 3 trusses and a chain looped over the post. Had whole elk, moose and steers on it. Using two 1 tonne chain hoists I pull them up to hang and skin or split.

LC

Voice of Sanity here.

Trusses are engineered to support the roof and anticipated snow load, not a couple of moose or elk. If you plan on that, better make some accommodation before you build.

Grizz

full_throttle · #21 10-23-2018, 01:46 PM

Hey, so I have a finished ceiling garage with a tall ceiling (12 or so feet) and I would like to mount an electric cable hoist somehow. I have a finished ceiling, but attic access. I am thinking of either a long 4x4 span across 4 or 5 rafters or a piece of steel pipe or tubing. How should I mount the hoist with minimal openings to the finished ceiling? I was thinking of building a couple L brackets or else using ready rod? Thoughts? This is the hoist that I would like to use:

https://images11.palcdn.com/hlr-syst...41/8041857.jpg

Red Bullets · #22 10-23-2018, 02:09 PM

Instead of things requiring carpentry why not make an A frame independent from the ceiling for hanging game. Easy to make and take down.

Dean2 · #23 10-23-2018, 02:26 PM

I hang mine from my car hoist. IT also means I can hydraulically raise and lower the meat. The hoist makes working on vehicles easy, gives you mega extra storage by filling oin between the ramps with 2x4s and plywood sheets, room for winter storing the summer car and works great for hanging game. Before I had the hoist I ran a laminated beam, built a mazanine above it and hung meat from the beam itself.

Some Lift King stock pictures

Mike_W · #24 10-23-2018, 02:51 PM

I have an engineered beam in my garage as I have a bonus room above my garage.
I have half a dozen heavy duty bike hooks.....never had a issue hoisting a deer from a single one.

Swamp hunter · #25 10-23-2018, 03:06 PM

Quarter the animal

Coiloil37 · #26 10-23-2018, 04:17 PM

I’ve hung from the ceiling before with lag bolts but I just use cherry picker now as it’s easier then hooking up a block and tackle and I can wheel it around as I need.

full_throttle · #27 10-23-2018, 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by full_throttle

Hey, so I have a finished ceiling garage with a tall ceiling (12 or so feet) and I would like to mount an electric cable hoist somehow. I have a finished ceiling, but attic access. I am thinking of either a long 4x4 span across 4 or 5 rafters or a piece of steel pipe or tubing. How should I mount the hoist with minimal openings to the finished ceiling? I was thinking of building a couple L brackets or else using ready rod? Thoughts? This is the hoist that I would like to use:

https://images11.palcdn.com/hlr-syst...41/8041857.jpg

Thanks for the input so far, but I really was looking for specific input on my above post.

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Lefty-Canuck · #28 10-23-2018, 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grizzly Adams

Voice of Sanity here.

Trusses are engineered to support the roof and anticipated snow load, not a couple of moose or elk. If you plan on that, better make some accommodation before you build.

Grizz

My garage must be build like a brick crapper then

. Had a 1500lb steer hanging from there and it did fine. Had many a moose and elk on there too.

LC

tool · #29 10-23-2018, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck

My garage must be build like a brick crapper then

. Had a 1500lb steer hanging from there and it did fine. Had many a moose and elk on there too.

LC

If you had beef that dressed 1,500 lbs....? That's not a steer.... That's Oxen!!

Lefty-Canuck · #30 10-23-2018, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tool

If you had beef that dressed 1,500 lbs....? That's not a steer.... That's Oxen!!

It was freaking heavy...I’ll tell you that!

LC